You're NOT Using Milorganite Correctly // Here's How Much You Should Use

[@TurfMechanic]

►►► Want to fix your lawn for the long haul but don't know where to start? I can help! Click here right now and get started today: turfmech.link/dont-know-where-to-start ◄◄◄

[@KillerKlipsch]

You said it, I have dumped this on my lawn in copious amounts twice a year. My results are stunning. I have by far the most beautiful lawn in my neighborhood and this is all I do.

[@h2hern952]

As an expert lawn cultivaristic expert, i have to say that I like the scissors you use. Other than that, I failed at math in school and got lost thru the number's jambo gambo. Good job though!

[@MCMolassesOfficial]

I primarily use it for my lawn, secondly use it as a music video prop. Thanks for the info!

[@andybales7318]

Used Milorganite ALOT on golf courses here in Ohio...many people don't know, Milorganite brings back damaged turf as well...thought it was a fluke, until it repaired many types of damaged turf..also, is a great "starter" fert. for new seed...ONLY fert. with multiple uses

[@michaelsacy]

What part.

[@brianfolding40]

Thanks for the informative video. Your common sense advice is refreshing. The problem with Milo, as I see it, as well as any other fertilizers is... some folks just throw down ferts because a lot of KZbin lawn care stars recommend it. Without a soil test, you're just spraying and praying, maybe applying too much or not enough of XYZ, or in this case N-P-K, A lot of my customers will tell me they think it's time for lime. Here in NC, that very well could be the case but my reply is always, "let's pull a soil test and go from there." They look at me like I have 3 heads.

[@pilsplease7561]

I use lime in my garden yearly cause I suffer from really acidic sandy soil, my native soil averages 5.6-5.8 for the PH Level

[@liveyourbestlawn]

As a Wisconsinite I'm very familiar with milo. It was always the fert of choice for my dad. It's been years since I've used it due to the high (P) in my soil. When I did use it, I'd supplement with a synthetic for some more quick release and alternate apps with lawn restore for (K). Great explanation on rates!

[@TurfMechanic]

I get the impression it was used a ton in the past by lawn care peeps before my time but honestly there are a lot of options on the market and a lot of interest in more comprehensive lawn fertilization programs- that's one reason why I keep it in my mix but also never recommend it be the only product used. Thanks for the compliment btw Joe! I could see the argument for adding a bit of synthetics to get the ration of N to P into a better spot...throw in a dose of straight SOP or MOP and everything is in line. 😁

[@curt841]

I used sears weed and feed over the winter with great results for early spring. Would you recommend using this brand now? My grass is a nice green and I want to maintain it for the summer season.

[@Justthemow]

Milorganite is easy go buy 6 bag put it all down repeat in 4 months if more then an acre go buy 12 bags. The thing is milorganite has a secrete it’s the yeast it wakes up when it rains and is over 90* and eats dead rotting stuff in your yards undergrowth. This is the real reason your yards do so well on it not the 6% nitrogen or iron. When they heat it up to pasteurize it it doesn’t kill the bacteria it just suspends it then the rain and temperature wake it up for a few days to eat all the junk left in your yard.

[@BigGeorge3397]

I had no idea milo had yeast in it. I found your post to be very fascinating and simple at the same time. Would you care to share anymore finding that you have found?

[@eyeswideopen627]

Hi Brian. I like using some organic. I've stopped using Milo and started using safer brand lawn restore. It's 9-0-2 . I also throw down some chicken feed on back. I think I learned that from you. This and a little liquid nitrogen on front. Not to much my lawn is mix fine and tall fescue. Thank you for info... Stay well

[@TurfMechanic]

Martin, yep I use as many organics as possible. I've never applied chicken feed but my chickens do play on our lawn a lot and leave their droppings around. I never count this for feeding but it can't hurt. I still use milo in spring to time the P addition with spring root development but the rest of the year I use a lot of Lawn Box products which are better organic additions of N and K without the P. Scott's Naturalls has a nice 11-0-2 product I think which I've seen in a few big box stores and having a bag on hand of SOP for straight Potassium supplementation is something I'll be doing this year too. Happy Spring!

[@1rockscar]

Hey guys, I saw the chicken feed trick too!! The chicken feed was used after hollow tine aeration. To reduce soil density and add slow release nutrition for over wintering. I am gonna spread an old (stale) bag of feed over my lawn this fall after aeration. Gonna brush it into the holes and top cover with compost. I believe that trick was on the… How to with Doc… channel. Hope this helps Merry Mowing

[@mplslawnguy3389]

It's definitely advisable to mix up your sources of fertilizer, especially if you don't know your soil. I won't be using Milo anymore due to the phos. Will be switching to the Safer Brand type organic ferts for my summer app. I prefer to use that 21-0-0 in the fall, but I also use urea occasionally. There is a place for fast acting fertilizers, I just wouldn't recommend them in the heat, and definitely know what you're doing when putting them down. You have to be accurate in your measurements.

[@ericstinnett9182]

Great video, have you use flagship fertilizer that has a Milorganite in it? If yes, what are your thoughts? Thanks.

[@tyi400]

What is the setting you used on your spreader?

[@whatthewhat11]

Most people use Milo wrong b/c their soil already has plenty of P and they shouldn't be using it in the first place. The right way to apply any fertilizer is according to soil test results.

[@stephenlandry9061]

Exactly. It also doesn’t have any potassium for the roots. A full soil analysis is needed before using any fertilizer

[@MagnumVideos]

Hey Brian. Great info. I'm getting ready to put some Milorganite on my lawn this week. It's greening up and growing so I'm guessing it's time. I also need to treat for insects (fleas, ticks, etc.). I usually spread a bag of Triazicide for those pests.

[@TurfMechanic]

Milo app assumes grass is starting to grow and soil is up into the 50s at least, don't forget a weed preventer, apply at the same time and water in together for efficiency 🙂

[@chadderstar6880]

Can Milorganite be used along with an application of Ironite, or is that too much iron in one season?

[@baldheadatl7902]

Yes i do all the time

[@allensadicario5196]

Thanks again brother always great info

[@TylerrossGarvey]

I’d like to see a video of what your lawns roots and soil conditions look like.

[@jkbaker01]

What spreader setting did you use for the Milo on your Scott's?

[@kylestaker9279]

I seen a few say anywhere from 8 to 6 and half. I am curious as well.

[@tonychau1983]

@@kylestaker9279 I think the bag said 11.5

[@kylestaker9279]

@@tonychau1983 that just seems like a lot? I want to try Milogranite but don’t want to over spread it.

[@tonychau1983]

@@kylestaker9279 thats what I thought too got this from the site. Scotts EdgeGuard (Pro, Mini), Lawn Pro & Standard11.511.5 (2 passes I ran out before I was done with the whole yard I think I'm a bit under 2500 sq ft.

[@tonychau1983]

@@kylestaker9279 I guess I should had read it more its 11.5 divided by 2 so 5.5ish 6

[@JQ3GT]

Milo USE to be an affordable method of lawn ferilization but since it's become so popular it is expensive! It's doubled and then some!!

[@TurfMechanic]

yep, thats the general consensus and has been for a few years now, since I made this video really. These days I see it as an option for lawn owners but more specifically I see it as almost an amendment or tool in the shed for situational use.

[@geraldmichaelmcphillips1316]

would like to know what number should i put my scotts spreader on for the milorganite so many people give different answers thanks would appreciate it

[@kt9495]

I’m just starting with lawn care and like the organic route. I was under the impression if you’re building the microbiome of the soil with organics, you wouldn’t introduce synthetics because it kills the benefit, in essence wasting product and not contributing to long term overall soil health. I just put down Microlife 6-2-4 and will add Humates plus also. In South TX with SA.

[@mplslawnguy3389]

Synthetics aren't the boogeyman they are made out to be, however there is nothing wrong with going the organic route, it's easy to use and difficult, if not impossible to make a mistake. I use both for different scenarios and applications.

[@ntello722]

Great video. I put down 33-0-0 urea at a rate of 3lbs. per 1000sq.ft. two weeks ago. Lawn looks great, but I wanted to feed it Milorganite. How long should I wait to put it down?

[@mattfrekwentflier8342]

For the past couple of years I've used a quick release synthetic 10-10-10 fert in Spring to kickstart my lawn, then used Milo in May and July (reduced rate in July) for the steady, slow release. Is there enough bio activity in early Spring for Milo to work? Last Fall was the first time I did a true Winterizer application, and now this Spring my lawn is already a nice green. So I'm not sure if the Spring kickstart is needed this year.

[@TurfMechanic]

In early spring 15% of the milo product is water soluble according to their website, that means that if applied in early spring the roots of your grass need to be active to take up that small bit, the rest will stay in the soil until microbes break it down. There is minimal microbial activity at 45 degree soil temps and by the time temps get to 55 activity increases a lot...this is why food will still spoil in a fridge when it's set to 45 degrees, the microorganisms are sluggish but active. If milo is applied in early spring when average soil temps are still low the 85% slow release stuff will simply break down slower and act as fertilizer for the lawn in a more delayed fashion. If you did a real winterizer app then I would skip an early appril synthetic app unless you were doing any leveling work where you need quick vigorous growth. Of course skipping a 10-10-10 app means you'll start your season behind on potassium compared to normal years so make sure to offset that somewhere later in the year - hint hint, that's the topic of my next vid 😁

[@matteng1448]

Hope your vacation went well. Glad I’m not the only one that k owns this now! I always have over applied this and my lawn loves it (tttf central Virginia)

[@TurfMechanic]

Thanks a bunch Matt! Vacation was really great! Longest vacation my family has taken in a long while 14 consecutive days! Two beach days, snow in the mountains for two days, Cabo, college friends, Legoland and about 2000 miles logged in an SUV with all the kids! Painful at the pump but it wasn't a cheap trip so just part of the experience 🤣 milo is falling out of favor with the lawn care community but I still think it's a good value when compared to other organics...also no one gets affiliate commissions from milo so its not pushed as much either by creators imo. Anyway, I still like it for spring and especially for beginners to lawn care. My next vid will touch on the K aspect of fertilization that is missing with heavy milo use. I hope you find value in it too!

[@matteng1448]

@@TurfMechanic Usually the channels that talk about milo i pay attention to since i know they do it because they want to. Yep, I will be on the lookout for that vid!

[@richardsmith1161]

I just mix it in (Sunniland version) with my synthetic usually a 16 0 8 or a 24 0 11, I go through 2 bags a year on 5,000 sqft. I'm in Florida where we have a P ban all year and Nitrogen ban June- September

[@LawnJourneys]

Follow you, good breakdown of milo and thoughts on application rate.

[@sjgoff]

I double the bag rate 3x per year. I skip the mid-summer application. The lawn is crazy green and thick.

[@TurfMechanic]

Hehe, and neighbors are wondering what your putting down, must be a secret.

[@justinbailey2806]

I was able to get some free damaged bags of fall weed & feed and fall fertillizer, but were pretty damp so I added dry azomite powder and worked it through a screen to make it finely granulated again. Added Milo, dry molasses, & kelp meal and drop spread the 100 lb over quite a large area almost an acre, so that worked out to use it up and get rid of it. There are a few more free undamaged bags I can do the same with later. After a large rain the other day, and at night I would go outside with a headlamp and see all the nightcrawlers and amazed and happy for the healthy life in the soil I have, so am really reluctant to use chem ferts at or near the actual bag rate or at all. I want to always mix that stuff with some organics and apply thin, or more often than a lot at once. Our yard has plenty of obstacles and is hard to spread and see that I get it evenly, there's a some nervous risk if using a straight strong chem fert for me going around the obstructions, we've burned it in the past with a borrowed tow behind drop spreader that had a screwy open close lever. Now I just walk it with a accugreen.

[@pilsplease7561]

For my fruit trees and vineyard I abandoned all organic fertilizers for good. I only use them for vegetables.

[@saraivasquez8940]

When and how often do you water your lawn after? Im in a very dry state that rarely rains.

[@TurfMechanic]

I'm with you, it rarely rains for us through the summer too. I strive for once a week watering schedule at dawn, for me that means I finish my watering cycle at 5am during the summer per zone. Each zone waters once per week ending at around 5am. In the hottest parts of summer I usually have to water more often than once per week but I hope to make it at least once every 7 days this year if not more like once every 10 days in the fringe months June and Sept. We'll see if I can stretch it that far. Make sure to see my recent irrigation vid for more on my thoughts on this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iYKYZpSknbuHf6s

[@ianmackenzie686]

I use Milo or another organic slow release during dog days of summer, temps hi 90's- 100°F.

[@cantwealljustgetalong2]

i just used a blend of coop poop and milorganite on my lawn 2 days ago. i fertilize all summer lol

[@ianmackenzie686]

@@cantwealljustgetalong2 If only I had coop poop😄

[@cantwealljustgetalong2]

@ianmackenzie686 lol

[@michael7v6]

Well your lawn looks like it has had better days.

[@TurfMechanic]

It sure has had better days, this video was filmed in February well before Spring so the lawn was still dormant in most areas. Sometimes I film things in advance of publication if it makes sense for my work flow. Right now my lawn is probably 70% actively growing, it's been a slow start to warmer spring weather where I live. By May things hopefully will be in full "bloom". 😁

[@skylar3967]

Hi I’m trying to find out what setting do I need to put my spreader on with milorganite

[@TurfMechanic]

Back of the Milo bag saus 11.5 for most Scott's spreaders. A few other spreaders are referenced as well. If you are putting down a heavier dose then set the dial a bit higher or set it a bit lower and do two passes but that 11.5 should be your starting point.

[@skylar3967]

@@TurfMechanic thanks very much for your help 🙏🏾🙏🏾

[@chrisweidmaier3619]

Good information once again!!

[@TurfMechanic]

Always the goal - thanks for always reminding me that I'm adding something of value to the interwebs ☺️

[@michaelsteele5495]

As one who believes that it is better to over-fertilize, bag rate be damned. What are your thoughts on putting down Milo and spoon-feeding the quick fertilizer as well? There are many of us who just cannot help ourselves, we have put something on the lawn often :) . Is there a gauge that we can stick on the lawn to show the amount of nitrogen? sort of like a litmus test

[@TurfMechanic]

Lol, you rule breaker 😉 well, this year I woke 500 sqft of my lawn up in February and applied milo to it at that time when soil temps were averaging around 50 for the purpose of making this vid...I then applied a bit of urea to it in March to start a leveling project before spring started! That video hasn't been finished yet. All that's to say all rules can be broken if you have a reason and know what you are doing...and have a purpose. If you really want to apply stuff early and get fancy I can't recommend enough early applications of cytokininnins to push more substantial root development during a natural rooting period for grass...or topdressing the lawn with alfalfa meal which contains naturally occuring tricintinol. My next vid is about adding dedicated apps of SOP to the lawn around apps of organics which are usually low in potassium. SOP isn't a ground water contaminant and it's used in organic products although usually in low volume. This coming week I'm applying a different soil amendment which I'll get around to making a vid on. With fresh aeration holes in the soil I can't miss this opportunity to improve the soil. It's not all about Nitrogen in advanced lawn care imo. 🤓

[@michaelsteele5495]

@@TurfMechanic The Bible:kzbin.info/www/bejne/hnavlHlugb2ajJI

[@jaxturner7288]

Soil test kits are a thing. You can test your soils N,P,K and ph yourself in ten minutes.

[@houliemon1315]

You do know it's made from the sludge at the bottom of sewer treatment plants ! I use to haul trailer dump loads of it from Quincy Ma . Most of it went to turf farms in RI ,CT! It's good stuff I will say that !

[@youtoldharpotobeatme5023]

I'll use that shit! 😂

[@jaxturner7288]

Lol. Kinda but also the opposite. It’s the pelletized and dried solids that are produced during the waste water treatment process. The micro organism exposure stage consumes most of the solids but whatever they don’t eat up during the three day cycle accumulates at the surface and it gets skimmed off the top and sent through dryers and a prilling machine effectively turning it into milogranite. My treatment plant has a 20 yard dumpster committed to dried solids disposal that is emptied every week. Instead of dealing with packaging and selling it they just send it all to the landfill. More or less it’s poop that tasted so bad it was rejected by bugs that eat poop to survive. 👍

[@josephballance2319]

Can anyone answer, I put down a weed and feed 4 was how long do I have to wait to put'milorganite down. TIA

[@TurfMechanic]

W&f is usually a blend of urea type products and sometimes synthetics. These sources of n are quickly available and spent in around 6 weeks time - lingering greening effects will persist for a while after that however but their growth push will back off at the 6 week mark. I'd say after six weeks a dose of milo would be fine and that push would give you 10 more weeks that are less aggressive taking you likely well into summer.

[@marttyd]

What else do you use besides milorginite?

[@markboccia2433]

Never been a fan of milorganite. Expensive, and a lot of it is good marketing on their part. Better options out there

[@BigGeorge3397]

What do you think are better options?

[@iRecordOS]

What’s wrong with only using milo and lime year round???

[@TurfMechanic]

Most won't need so much P, and every lawn needs some K...and lime only helps out acidic soils, if your lawn is neutral or alkaline then lime hurts it. That's why.

[@TheFirstRealChewy]

I've used it the last two years. This year I'll do without it. My soil already has a high amount of phosphorus.

[@TurfMechanic]

Yeah, if that's the case then there are definitely better options out there for you. There are a bunch of plant and mineral based ferts out these that are only N & K, they give you that same slow delivery of N but without the Phos. Thanks for the comment Jermaine!

[@robbiegolding1831]

Cant use Milo anymore. We have naturally high P here in Florida, in addition throwing down a fert with no K is not appealing to me as I need it in my lawn.

[@TurfMechanic]

The lack of K is a big problem for me too since the majority of my fertilization is with organics. Last year I had to make a dedicated application of langbeinite to help me get enough K into the lawn, this year (next vid) I'm using SOP, the version of potash used in organic ferts, to make sure I keep my K applications in line with my N. For people who like to use organics and/or biosolids who can throw down Milo it's a source of P that's not found in a majority of organic lawn products. Hard to spread bone meal on a lawn lol. Anyway Robbie, thanks for watching and chiming in! I hope to hear from you again this season 🙂

[@cwilks5592]

I have high phosphorus so I stopped using milorganite

[@TheRoadfarmer]

That rate of Milorganite on my 50k sq feet of yard is 325$ . Versus 80$ for spray grade AMS. I can spread my yard a few extra times and still come out ahead

[@TurfMechanic]

Very true, AMS is much cheaper and that's why so many people use it in both residential and agricultural settings. I don't because it doesn't feed the soil or the biology in my soil. Although the inputs I use cost more my lawn is healthier with every passing year and it ends up requiring less inputs over time. For me coming out ahead isn't about the dollars spent. At some point cost becomes too high for all of us, myself included, so I understand where you are coming from.

[@frozentundra7446]

Those are not cissors, they are Sheet Metal Shears.

[@TurfMechanic]

Good eye and yes, that's what I originally bought them for, cutting sheet metel. For the years since however I use them in my garage to cut everything except sheet metal. My garage would be woefully incomplete these days without them. 😁

[@billmalec]

Not a lot of people know that. - Carl Spackler

[@devin9880]

Damn I like your back yard view ,

[@TurfMechanic]

Me too Devins! That's what sold us on the house in the first place! Thanks for the compliment and thanks for watching!

[@Usiris23]

I like your little chair

[@TurfMechanic]

Lol! I love those little chairs too! We have four of them.

[@arielrodriguez6980]

I threw Milo down twice and do not see a difference.

[@bbtank3000]

I couldn't use milorganite last year, and I still can't use it this year because I'm at the upper limits for phosphorus and iron.

[@TurfMechanic]

If you are interested in using organics but can't use milo take a look at my milorganite alternatives list, many of the alternatives I have made vids on but I haven't gotten to all of them. turfmechanic.com/milorganite-alternatives/ Scott's Naturals, Jonathan Green, Lawn Box, and others are good options that are very low or have no phosphorus and still use slow release organic ingredients mean for lawns. I'm partial to lawn box's product line but Scott's Naturalls may be a cheaper option and one that you can find locally. I made a vid about it last Spring if you want to look it up.

[@bbtank3000]

@@TurfMechanic Thanks! Last year, I bought a bunch of bags of Purely Organic Lawn Food, but I never noticed a difference in the lawn after using it. I'll have to try some of your suggestions.

[@TurfMechanic]

@bbtank3000 imo you are unlucky to notice a difference after application because it's so gradual. Some of the natural I gredie to take over half a year to really break down. Feather meal for instance takes quite a while. Even though it's roughly 12% N it gets used very gradually over a season. Applying this kind of stuff is a long play your soil and grass will be looking better year over year instead of month over month

[@manuelangulo3992]

That’s just being lazy wanting to fertilize only 4 times a year. I fertilize 12 times a year to keep it going year round. But honestly most people that love lawn care and are watching people like you don’t mind more then 4 times a year

[@TurfMechanic]

Yep, agreed. If you love the process then going out weekly and tinkering is fun but people like you and I need to keep in mind that we are the weird ones, most people don't want to go out more than a few times a year and most novices lose steam by summer and lose interest by Fall. Keeping things easy is a way that keeps a lot of people engaged that would lose interest otherwise.

[@shanedavis9966]

I could make the same argument with any bag of fertilizer you choose and probably explain that you are wrong

[@TurfMechanic]

I suppose possibly but I think I didn't communicate my reasoning clear enough for you and possibly other silent watchers. See my other comment to you for context.

[@mikedipasquale141]

Good info. Two things. Get rid of that spreader and get a good one. What about preemergent for crabgrass and annual weeds? What about insect control? I’m all for IPM and thresholds but if someone is paying you for results milorganite doesn’t fit the bill by Itself. Would you just do a separate app / no combo products?

[@TurfMechanic]

Lol, that spreader will probably be replaced soon but I'm in no rush. As for the questions, I almost always apply dedicated products as needed and rarely rely on combination products. I have vids on this channel explaining my thoughts on most everything including spring and fall and even winter pre-emergent apps, grub control, bio stimulant use, michorizal fungi, top dressing, etc. In one of my project lawns (video from last week) we applied fert and PE already but I'm waiting to apply PE in my own lawn. I also am using Sulphate of Potash by itself to spoon feed Potassium every time I add fert that is lacking in it. Luckily I don't have clients that demand to see instant results, that's where the temptation is to push fast nitrogen and skip the soil building and plant health stuff.

[@oceano_drive241]

I open the Scott spreader to 15, fuck it

[@jasonfournier]

Milorganite got too expensive to be useful.

[@bigredwag]

$$$$$ application costs

[@TurfMechanic]

Money is always a factor. I won't knock anyone for using a cheaper product if they don't want to spend more on organics (or biosolids). I can afford to use organics and I prefer to use them so it's what I do and it's my bias here on the channel but it's not for everyone and I respect that.

[@TheTigero]

Milorganite is literally poop from Milwaukeeans 😂

[@TurfMechanic]

Those guys make the best poop! 😆 💩

[@shanedavis9966]

All your video is about is making it grow fast and that’s it…

[@TurfMechanic]

Hey Shane, I respectfully disagree, a bag rate app of milorganite works in the lawn for a longer period of time than a bag rate app of urea or synthetic based fertilizers. Most products suggest applications in the 0.50-0.75lb range of nitrogen per app with little regard to how fast that N is released. Milo releases slowly and works longer so larger apps allow yard owners the luxury of going longer between applications, that's something that's harder to do with fast acting ferts commonly purchased these days. Long time viewers of my channel know well that I am not interested in fast overgrowth, if I was id be dropping synthetics and urea all the time which I dont. Thanks for bringing that up though because it's something that maybe I should have been more clear on in the video. 👊

[@mablenay]

McDonald's for your lawn. Tastes good, but super unhealthy in the long-run. There are much better options

[@riflebear1711]

Much better options than which? He's talking about two products here...

[@mablenay]

@riflebear1711 the video is about Milorganite. It is weaksauce, and contains PFAS and lead and other toxic...shit. Grossly overpriced nowadays too. Sure it has iron- which is the secret sauce to a dark green lawn- but the NPK analysis is next to nothing.

[@TonyJackaloni]

You're doing it all wrong...

[@SuperWoodyboy]

stupid hat~

[@TurfMechanic]

It's the best stupid hat ever though! 😁