You're paying $1000s more to replace this when it can be repaired for way less!

[@COBRO98]

I've found that fixing compressors will haunt you more times than not, there's been several times I've replaced a clutch/bearing & the compressor ended up grenading 6 months later. It's always the old vehicles, I suspect over time the oil leaks out causing unseen damage. It used to be viable to rebuild alternators, starters, compressors but with the way parts are post 2020, the only real option is to buy OEM replacements anymore.

[@crazysquirrel9425]

Hard to find even the part you want let alone get it. Sometimes just the part costs more than the whole item. And that is ROBBERY.

[@COBRO98]

@@crazysquirrel9425 What really happened is as shops kept raising their labor rates over the years, it became cheaper in most cases to replace the part than to pay labor hours to repair the part(if possible). So they quit making parts for rebuilding. Ironically this was the same time point in the 1990's where the mechanic started really getting screwed on pay because they're making a lot less hours per job. Instead of being paid 50% of the labor rate to rebuild your starter for 3 hours, they're now replacing it for 15% of that rate and it only pays 45 minutes.. That's when customers paid $45/hour to have their vehicle in a shop, today it's $200-$300.. and the mechanics get almost none of it..

[@crazysquirrel9425]

@@COBRO98 Repair shops also have a minimum 1 hour charge. Replace a blown fuse - $200 PLUS the inflated cost of the fuse.

[@COBRO98]

@@crazysquirrel9425 Well yeah we can't work for free, you'd be surprised how many of the general public think you should diagnose their vehicle for free. Shops used to, then you'd be out time and money when the customer refuses the repair. Fuses don't blow without a short, it takes time to find that short, usually longer than an hour.

[@crazysquirrel9425]

@@COBRO98 Used to be that Dx was free with the repair. Or a SMALL fee at best for a 10-15 Dx. I have had fuses blow for no apparent reason. Replaced them and never blew again. Had others blow when I plugged in something I shouldn't have. Most mechanics are paid by the hour. SOME are flat rate. Shops even charge a LOT for a simple code read which takes less than 5 min but you pay 1/2 to 1 hour fee. What a ripoff.

[@ghostwrench2292]

I’ll repair my own compressors, usually shim adjustment is all I’ve needed, but on customer cars, they get a compressor. It’s like you said, if you repair it and it has an issue down the road, that’s a tough conversation with the customer. At a certain mileage (100k+ or so), replacement just makes sense if you plan on keeping the car long term.

[@UmbraWeiss]

Exactly this, i will do this for my car, if i have the time, but even for my own car i'm 90% sure i will buy a new one, it's not worth the time... i rather make money in that timeframe:)

[@crazysquirrel9425]

Internal compressor parts and seals wear out.

[@verohandymike]

2012 Cadillac SRX. My AC went out 2 years ago, just quit working. I went to a couple shops for estimates and the both were close to $3,000. Explaining that the compressor needs to be replaced which means evacuating the system and replacing other components as well. They were charging more to fix the car than it is worth! SO I did my own investigating and realized that the clutch was engaging but not spinning the pulley, the clutch was completely worn. I bought a clutch on Ebay for $40, took the wheel off the car and a couple other things. Then I took the belt off the compressor and was able to change the clutch without evacuating the system. Cost me $40 and a couple hours of my time and still working to this day. We need real mechanics, not just parts changers. Could have charged me about $500 for that job and I would have gladly paid.

[@Lancemechanics]

And you'll see in the comments not all agree with this type of repair. It is situational. I've been very lucky with this style of repair cause I find it's extremely common.

[@batsnvultures]

2011 srx dont have a clutch.Only the solenoid.If was your case thats no fix for it if solenoid was ok but had a mechanical fault inside..2012s have a clutch and solenoid.

[@verohandymike]

@@batsnvultures Mine is the 2012, clutch was worn.

[@cjin0101]

This type if repair is relegated to DIY consumers. Pros and high volume shops cannot be wasting time taking chances as a future failure will result in lost time and labor for warranty repair work. You are someone who did their homework for quite some time I assume on your specific make and model with much time to consider the repair. Now imagine you had to do that to 5 cars a day and all the customers want their car back same day as that's their only car. Not happening.

[@verohandymike]

@@cjin0101I would say that while you are correct, many customers if given choices may decide one way or the other. What I mean by that is, if you say to the customer “You can pay $3,000 for a new compressor and get the car back today, or pay $500 fo repair this one and get the car back in a couple days”… some may choose the latter! I guess the main thought process I have is choice! The shops you speak of offer no choice. A repair such as this is not shoddy work, if the compressor is not near failing, such as mine, the repair is practical. I’m willing to bet there are a lot of people driving around without ac because they’ve been told the repair of their system will cost more than their car is worth.

[@richardrussell1025]

I work on my own cars and AC compressors has always been something I didn't want to mess with. After watching your video and knowing you have a good success rate, I would definitely try to replace these components myself if it comes up.

[@Lancemechanics]

Alot of the oems can get the clutch kits in for pretty cheap :) just got to wait a little

[@hfxpro]

A/C in general isn't that bad with the exception of computers adding to the problem. The issue now on cars is that you sometimes need a pretty good scan tool to see what the computer thinks the A/C should be doing, and what is actually going on in relationship to temperature and pressures (cycling, adjustment of the pump rate by adjustable vanes). If you don't have a leak (seems more rare then when I was young) the problem is almost always the compressor has begun to trash sending bits of metal throughout the system. This will stop up the expansion device. Add in a design on the condensing coil that is difficult to flush adequately (parallel flow) and you are looking at usually replacing a compressor, the condenser, filter drier on receiver, and the expansion device. I am assuming the evaporator core is more of a classic single long line style which can be flushed, but I don't know what the Germans are up to today. The big key after any servicing of a system is to make sure their is no water in the system as water is as devilish in an A/C system as it is in things lubricated by oil. I'll leave out the EPA issues like you are supposed to recover the refrigerant even if ozone safe (R134a, R410a) or less green house causing (YF1234, R-32, etc).

[@StopTeoriomSpiskowym]

Flush with nitrogen. change dryier and whole oli PAG in system.

[@HypocriticYT]

Shops don’t want their bays held up with work that isn’t selling parts and taking longer times to repair. Besides if the rebuild fails it’s on them, if a replacement compressor fails it’s on the manufacturer

[@ChavezDIY]

I love that you are sharing this info. Now I feel silly for replacing my whole compressor, haha. This is a reminder to keep the OEM parts you are replacing. You may be able to fix them to keep them as a spare or at least open them up to understand them better.

[@rhiantaylor3446]

Great advice. If I have an alternator problem I wouldn't change the regulator or diode pack but I could - difference here is the cost of the reman part against the "cost" of my time - the alternator is cheap but the compressor is not.

[@failranch9542]

Great video. I always appreciate those who actually fix things rather than just changing parts. It’s what distinguishes a mechanic from a mere parts changer. I was a little taken aback on the prices you quoted though. I haven’t had to do this job in over 10 years and I nearly fell out of my chair. Are these all high-end German cars that you work on? That would explain it. Just as a sanity check I googled the price of an AC compressor for all of my wife’s and my fleet. I felt a bit better after that: 2013 Jeep JK: $200 - $400 2014 RAV4: $150 - $300 2000 Ford Super Duty: $150 - $400 2002 C5 Corvette: $150 - $350

[@Lancemechanics]

The jdm and euro scen is pretty insane. Honda civic compressors. Oem are around 1600. Problem I have with aftermarket is it's never as cold as it should be and I end up putting a oem back in eventually. Guess you notice it more when your at the dealer side of the table.

[@StumpyVanLife]

Mechanic since 1992 here, I have replaced just the clutch when that is the problem. I find it hard to believe you have not replaced a single compressor in 7 years, just in the past year I have replaced at least 6 compressors due to the pump side failing. Easy to diagnose when you get HI side pressure that is low (with fully charged refigerant level) and LO side pressure that is high. Or you get a fluttering pressure reading. Each time I had a compressor failure I inspect either the orifice tube for debris or if exp valve system I look elsewhere for evidence, so each job got a new condensor , orifice tube , drier , some got a new suction hose. If a suction hose has a muffler it cannot be properly flushed so is supposed to get replaced. A complete system flush. How are you not seeing any compressor failures on the pump side? That seems very odd to me. I have also been bit in the ass by just replacing the clutch, 6 months or a year later the pump side gives out and the customer wants to blame you. They seem all excited at the time to just have to replace the clutch, but forget everything you explained to them when the rest of the compressor fails! For that reason I very rarely replace just the clutch anymore.

[@crazysquirrel9425]

Old timer told me they used to use R11 to flush a system. Cleaned the entire thing out down to the bare metal as it were. But the EPA won't let him do that anymore. Too bad to.

[@chadfield376]

The way you described how a car a/c clutch works is exactly the same principle for my riding lawn mower electric PTO works to activate the blades😊. If I come across this in my next beater car, going to take a stab at checking/replacing the clutch😊

[@johnaclark1]

In many cases, if the clutch is even available, it's only a few dollars more to buy the whole compressor. If there's been any heating up of the bearing then the shaft seal is suspect, as well. I got burned on that once where I did a clutch on one and the seal failed less than a month later. Additionally, if the car has 100k miles or more, and is 10 years old, the compressor is worn due to being run low on refrigerant anyway since most people don't have their refrigerant serviced every 5-7 years or so. There may be some cases where only a clutch can be replaced but most of the time it gets a compressor in my world.

[@dharley189]

The biggest lie on the sticker is : “Meets or Exceeds OEM specs” I 8 yrs retired and I’ve heard reman is at its lowest point since I started in 1972.

[@Lancemechanics]

Yeah it's been interesting. I prefer oem parts at this point. Seems to come In cycles the quality of aftermarket parts.

[@hfxpro]

@@Lancemechanics It feels so weird now that I buy all my parts from either the OEM or their suppliers now. When I was younger, any parts shop had generic parts that would hold up as good as factory as their cheapest option (and usually in stock). However, in the last 10-15 years, things have really gone downhill.

[@P_RO_]

Absolutely. For some things anything will do OK, but reman and new from foreign generic suppliers has become substandard even to the point of parts needing alteration to fit. Your only real assurance that you won't have a comeback is OEM parts- anything else is a roll of the dice.

[@markbeiser]

The "lifetime warranty" on less expensive new aftermarket and remanufactured parts is not an indication of good quality, usually quite the opposite. It just means they put it together so cheaply that they can replace it under warranty, should anyone actually use the warranty, and still make their profit margins.

[@justarandomguy3969]

@@Lancemechanics oem parts are still rebuilt a lot of the time

[@texasgrillchef8581]

The problem is getting those parts. The parts to fix those compressors aren’t always available. I had a compressor go out on a vehicle once. And you’re right they wanted $2000 for the part. That’s ok I went down to a salvage yard and found one for $200 pulled it and put it on.

[@YamahaC7SRG]

Highlander started blowing warm a/c air and making a noise when I turned on the a/c. I got a $3,000+ quote from the Toyota dealer to replace the compressor and condenser and recharge system. I installed a used compressor I bought from a wrecked Lexus (~100,000 miles on it) for $75 at a local salvage yard. A new condenser cost under $100, online. I borrowed an a/c manifold gauge set from car parts store for free and recharged the system for only the cost of the refrigerant (R-134a). That was 1.5 years ago and it is working great. Total cost was well under $200.

[@Lancemechanics]

Awesome. Ac is stupidly over prized

[@hhkk6155]

Those dealers live to include parts that don't need to be changed in the bill. Realistically (99% of the time) your condenser is fine 😅

[@eoggblaine9725]

I’ve repaired many of them. You are spot on! Sadly today we’ve created parts jockeys not mechanic’s! When I was trained as a mechanic it was standard practice to repair and , overhaul, the following--water pumps, compressors, starters, alternators, engines, transmissions, brake calipers, wheel cylinders, master cylinders, steering boxes, the list goes on. In other words we repaired vehicles. We did not relegate parts to be thrown into a recycle bin to be melted down at great energy costs, we did not have components manufactured in far off country’s and shipped across oceans, to maintain vehicle repairs. Please ask yourself what the carbon footprint is on this mentality? An alternator can be completely overhauled with a rectifier plate, a set of bearings, and brushes, total parts less then $100.00 dollars plus one hours labour to remove, repair, and install. What does it cost for a new one from China? Tell the green people they are anything but green!

[@hotpuppy1]

Used to do clutch and seal replacement (A-6 AC Delco). That was when you could GET the parts. Many times you can't get the parts.

[@andyking9673]

getting access to change the clutch is often easier with the compressor off, so it gets replaced

[@NS-YT-PV]

The problem comes down to sourcing a quality clutch kit, at least for me as a DIY guy. I diagnosed my neighbors coil/clutch and ended up passing on the job because they were coming to me anyway to save a buck and the only source I could find was eBay. I’m just not about to waste the time doing no name parts. I imagine you can get the OEM components more reliably since you’re at a dealer but with OEM prices it ends up being the cost of an aftermarket OEM branded compressor. So then you’re in a bind because the most labor efficient thing to do would be buy an OEM branded compressor like a Denso and then just swap the coil/clutch assemblies if you can keep it in the car. Most times you have to pull the compressor to get access to the clutch though so you just replace it at that point. Anyway, your videos are great man. I’m not in the field like I said, but I’m probably a little more advanced than most DIY guys at this point since I really enjoy the diagnostic side of things so I’ve really leaned into scope diagnostic/electrical stuff while my current job allows me to fund the tools slowly. The pico 4425a was a game changer for my learning. I’m not sure how my industry will end up, and I’ve been hedging my bets while having a good time working/learning on cars. Obviously the good times will end the second I do it in a non academic or hobby sense. At least that’s what I pull from your videos haha. Keep em coming!

[@GenderSkins]

I’ve been working on automobiles for close to 40 years now. Last time I seen anyone repair an A/C compressor was in the late 1970’s, which was done by my late father who was a mechanic in the Army. And that was on a 1970’s Ford F-150 dent side that had an R-12 system. I honestly would prefer to repair them if it’s just a compressor clutch, the problem I have with that is a lot of parts houses will not stock the parts to replace just the compressor clutch system. And a lot of that is due to lack of demand for the parts, often due to either the mechanics shop not knowing how to replace the A/C compressor clutch or the customer requesting a new compressor. It’s like this in some cases: say you have a 1965 Ford that has a bad alternator, which can be rebuilt or a bad regulator. If the parts house does not sell enough alternator rebuild kits or enough regulators they just delete the parts from their inventory and parts list which forces mechanics to just replace the entire alternator/generator with a new one or with a one wire set up that replaces the regulator and old alternator with an all in one unit.

[@mikehenry4743]

The clutch went out about two years ago on my '97 F350. I just installed a new factory clutch assembly without even taking the compressor off the truck. In total it was $57.00, including a $20.00 tool to hold the clutch while unbolting it. Saved tons of money not only in not spending the money for a new compressor, but not having to get the system recharged also. It is a very simple repair and as long as that is all that's wrong with the compressor that is the way to go.

[@Lancemechanics]

heck yeah buddy! love seeing more people doing that. super easy repair

[@googleuser6875]

Finding a good mechanic is the hard part. Mostly what you find today is "parts changers".

[@Keepmywifesnameoutyafucknmouth]

What you just said made me super wet.

[@rockenracing1996]

what is missing from this video is more testing. as we know the computer can effectively veto engaging of the clutch if other components (ex. pressure and temp switches). as an ac novice, it would be good for people like me to see a troubleshooting tree and expectations of tests and values (ex. how to rule out a bad compressor side). inspired me to rebuild my forester's before, if possible, before buying a new one. keep it up!

[@Lancemechanics]

That's a whole other video. Can't promise it anytime soon ;)

[@squangan]

As a customer I called my Ford dealer to ask for the A/C compressor clutch replacement and the Service Advisor was confused and said he’d have to get back to me. He apparently had to check and when he returned the call he said yes they will do it, leads me to believe they usually just change out the entire Compressor.

[@Lancemechanics]

Wonder what the price different was between the 2 repairs

[@jimmyaber5920]

@squangan I have a small one man shop as a semi-retired master tech and trainer for a car manufacturer. I do consultimg for other repair shops and warranty and no lawsuits is what drives the whole part-few component repair approach. If a customer spends 2700 for a component rebuild or 3600 for new install, they are still trouble if the vehicle has the same problem again. If new is used there are warranties by dealer or the wholesale shop parts sellers that cover them if the part fails for 2 years in most cases. There are still dealers and shops that do the nuclear approach. Compressors are a unique case where the full parts warranty can require the drier and condenser be replaced. Whole compressors are replaced on 100k+ mile vehicles as a clutch has no warranty if the compressor fails and it slips 20k miles after the clutch was repaired. Some vehicles have compressors that can only have clutch serviced by discharge and complete removal.

[@jimmyaber5920]

@Lancemechanics in too many cases clutch is 50 less than reman compressor and reman compressor is only 35 less than new compressor. Reman never has the longer warranty and core has to be returned.

[@tonylam9548]

Decades ago, when things were actually more complex, I used to rebuild my own GM alternator and starters. Things are easier now because there are one less component in the alternator, the regulator , which is now part of the ignition computer, or it was a stand alone unit on the firewall. For GM you basically need just a socket and a large slip joint pliers and rag to hold the pulley while you remove the nut. The rest of the inside you can do everything with a 5/16 ? socket. Be sure to mark the casing halves first. You need some equipment and know how to tell which component is bad, such as rotor(rare) stator or often diodes. You need a straighten paperclip to keep the brushes retracted while you reassemble the halves. Hope you marked it, there are 4? possible ways to put it back together. The old GM if one of the six diode failed, you get a very dim "GEN" light. An old multi tester will show an excess amount of AC to the battery, or just bad. There be lots of voltage , but not enough amps. But you can do all this only if you have another car and the shop space. Getting repair parts can be a challenge and customer generally do not appreciate you saving them money. The starter , the solenoid often give trouble, the easy fix is to open it up, there is a copper contact ring and you just rotate it to an unused spot, fixed.

[@alfredocuomo1546]

I was a Chrysler & Volvo "A" mechanic along with ten years in gas stations & auto repair shops and the three most common FRU's I would rebuild was Starters, Alternators & AC Compressors saving the customer big money. I would always give them the choice but cost was usually the deciding factor.

[@ring-and-run]

Back in the day our shops used to go for the repair of the clutch assembly. All it takes is one that goes beyond that, to sour us from saving people money. Most customers can’t deal with incremental repairs. Reason and decency is a generation away from what we have to do to make it right in 2024.

[@Lancemechanics]

Funny customers blame mechanics for state of the industry but they've caused some of it cause of what you mentioned

[@benndarayta9156]

​@@Lancemechanics just months ago our Aircon compressor got replaced in our Mitsubishi Montero, I experienced a very loud squeeking noises coming from the belts or pulleys and also the ac isn't cooling the car anymore most of the time, the mechanic said to replace the air compressor. Can I still fix the compressor? The mechanic said the compressor was knocking (which I really didn't understood what he meant) and needed to be replaced

[@Lancemechanics]

@@benndarayta9156 knocking noise can come from a bad pulley. The noise is transfered through the entire pump. Only way to know for sure is to pull off the serpentine belt and physically move the pulley to find play and or bad spots. IF you still have the part you can investigate and see what you find

[@benndarayta9156]

@@Lancemechanics I will try to look at the compressor though I'm not a mechanic I just like to do diy, but the aircon now is doing fine, thank you for the knowledge, I appreciate it

[@davidpotter7484]

They used to be rebuilt at the dealer, along with most parts. Paper manuals have detailed instructions and theory of operation. Parts illustration catalogs have all the diagrams and part numbers. The world changed into a throwaway society. I have lots of dealer manuals for my 72 c20, 85 c20, and 94 k2500. Following detailed instructions is easy.

[@Plons0Nard]

I like the "it is dead, Jim" in the thumbnail. Bones is the best 😊

[@geegaw14]

Sometimes he would change things up and say “Jim, he’s dead”.

[@madjackgamingandfitness498]

My experience is that I do try to fix a part, but it’s razor edge of labor nearing cost of part. On expensive items we will fix a replaceable part if it does not involve a full tear down. If it’s a tear down we push for the part sale for both our sakes. We can warranty a part, but we can’t warranty your entire assembly failing somewhere else 3 months later. If the labor hits near part value we absolutely hit on the part it’s a safer bet and protects the customer if it fails.

[@briansfixinstuff]

depending on age of compressor its wise to change the whole unit also only buy new.. ive also found that they dont always offer clutches for every compressor ether. learned the hard way for customers buy new and dont fix.. it always comes back also depends how long it was ran bad.. it can damage the compressor hub also.

[@ovniusa15]

I just replace the entire Ac compressor to many variables in the small parts and sometimes the parts distributor can give you the wrong part. Not worth it at all for me

[@thegrey8643]

I hate "reman" parts these days so much, I learned how to bench build alternators myself, because that way I can get much higher quality non chinese parts and fix up expensive alternators for a fraction of the cost of a "remam" piece of trash made in some 3rd world sweat shop by school children. Its especially handy when it comes to SUPER expensive modern PWM alternators. Yeah I know this is a video about A/C compressors. Dont see too many of them but see plenty of electrical items as I am an Electrical Specialist.

[@ProleDaddy]

That's American companies making this happen, just to put that out here.

[@maxscott3349]

I'd love to know how to do that

[@thegrey8643]

@@ProleDaddy on the upside America’s greedy failure by outsourcing everything to Third World countries full of substandard, labor, and comprehension of technology, I have found a new market made up of people tired of garbage quality parts. Was tricky finding the vendors for the individual components that make up the parts I rebuild though.

[@thegrey8643]

@@ProleDaddy I replied but it vanished for some reason. I’m thankful that corporate America being greedy slobs made a niche business for me. The only tricky part was finding the components vendors in Germany, Korea, Japan, and the US that the OE assemblies are made of but once you find them vendors, you see golden.

[@ProleDaddy]

@@thegrey8643 I'm assuming you're a business owner?

[@ChrisJames-tf8yw]

The AC in my Altima failed. After research I found there is a control solenoid in the compressor that can be easily replaced. My local shop said I needed a new compressor. I asked them to just replace the solenoid and they said OK, but there are no guarantees. Almost 2 years later the AC is still working great and it cost me very little in comparison.

[@stevenself9870]

I'm on vacation, took my 2nd gen ram to the beach and i'm pretty sure the compressor's clutch just started failing. I love the timing of your video! 😂

[@Lancemechanics]

Good timing :)

[@BearHomeOwnerDIY]

Knock on wood my 2nd gen is still on her original charge and parts. Today I did have to replace the vacuum hard line that broke (passenger side going into the firewall at the evap) and left the blend door open and pushing out air thru the heater core. Good luck on a fix that winds up being cheap and easy

[@cs8892]

The only time you need to replaced the whole thing. Is if it’s exploded most good reputable shops will just do a clutch.

[@luimackjohnson302]

Amazing! Thank you for sharing this informative video. Greetings from Madang, Papua New Guinea.

[@Lancemechanics]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@danielrose-tt7os]

In my career 95% of the AC compressors I replaced were done under manufactures warranty or extended warranty. I would say 90% were replaced due to leakage. A vast majority of my AC work was done at GM Dealerships and the leakage point was from the case halves of the AC compressor.

[@danielrose-tt7os]

Hey Lance, I throw out an idea that perhaps you decide to say a few words about. I was going to ask you to speak about just how much people will pay for AC work and how a tech/mechanic can specialize in AC in some locals. Then I thought I ask you to speak about upselling. This discussion could be of interest to customers that view your channel and could be interesting for guys that have not developed a good relationship with upselling yet. That would be upselling a customer pay ticket, upselling an extended warranty (my favorite) ticket and even the forbidden warranty ticket upsell. The idea on just how far management will approve of questionable upsells, with an eye towards extended warranty upsells. Customers liked extended warranty upsells as they were paying the same no matter how many items were on the ticket. I have seen extended warranty management send adjusters in to look the guys over.

[@BearHomeOwnerDIY]

Like the HT6. I got a leak in mah belly! Went to a sanden style to eliminate the belly leak .... something you can do in your own driveway but can't do at the dealer, unfortunately.

[@nvragn]

Same thing on steering box input and sector shaft seals. I'm talking on the heavy truck side. I would imagine it's possible on the vehicles that still have traditional steering boxes. I am seeing less and less parts that have core charges. I could be wrong but I mark it up to cheap aftermarket parts. See you in the next one 👍 🇨🇦 🔧

[@firzen0000]

Best mechanic channel on youtube 💪

[@Matt-d8m]

Similar situation but I had a customer with a VW Jetta 2.0TDI with a failed overrun clutch on his alternator. His tensioner was flopping around like a fish at idle. No charging issues. Just noise. I had to remove the alternator anyways in order to replace just the ORC pulley and I needed a special tool to do so. The OEM pulley was $60CAD and I could get the tool for $100 or so. Labour was 3hrs I think and a whole new OEM alternator was +/- $700. We gave the customer the option and he chose a whole new alternator. Car had 200K on it. Informing the customer of his or her options when it comes to a repair is key. If it were my car I would’ve just changed the ORC pulley and had the tool in my box for the next one that rolled in. Some people want the peace of mind and the parts warranty.

[@Lancemechanics]

Yeah i see alot of vw pulleys fail and seen that tool on KZbin like you said. Give them the option. That's the key!

[@MikeSmith-is1yy]

7/8 is a fraction. Why are mechanics not fixing these? They purchase at wholesale and sell to the customer at retail. Huge source of revenue for the mechanics shop.

[@madjackgamingandfitness498]

Money. It swings both ways. I do industrial. Do I know a part failed in the pump or motor? Yes I could probably find the part. But you will be absolutely pissed when you see the labor charge. 30 minute diag to find the issue and replacing the whole part can come out the same or cheap than the labor. Part is a safer bet, customers happy it’s fixed, mechanic is happy they won’t be called in to explain wasted labor.

[@MrTIGERH1752]

Here in California we must credit our customer with any core charge that is accepted for return/rebuild. Initial estimate should include core charge, and be listed as such. Scamming core charges is not only immoral, but illegal as well. Don't do it !!! I use remanufactured/new compressors when a compressor has failed. That way I can guarantee the repair, and have the pump replaced if the rebuild or new pump is defective. My labor is usually covered by the pump manufacturer or rebuilder, so it just makes sense that I replace the unit. Saving the customer money is not my problem, earning a living is MINE !!! I will rebuild a pump if the customer requests it, but I do not guarantee the rebuild, as there are many other components involved, and I am not going to be responsible for them as well because they are in the same unit. Old is old, and worm is worn !!! I'm a small shop owner, and time is important. I can't afford to do a job over, as the time loss/revenue loss is simply too great. I have to do it right the first time, every time !!! Customers do save both time and money with my procedures. I also refurbish and sell used vehicles, and YES !!! I rebuild individual components when it is expedient to do so, based upon my time/money sitituitation. If I have no customer work in the shop, I keep busy with my used cars repairs. And YES !!! I do guarantee the vehicles that I sell for specific time periods and mileages. Honesty is the best policy. And close doesn't count !!! I have warranted my vehicles when they were shortly out of date or barely over the millage limits. I do this, because the only new motor vehicle I ever purchased NEW, a Motorcycle sized up a day after the warranty had expired, and the manufacturer would not honor my claim !!! So, I could never do such a thing to a customer of mine. It's just ME !!! Tim

[@buffystclair9042]

In the 80’s & 90’s I would replace the A/C clutch over the compressor 5 to 1 . Parts were readily available . Most of these compressors were easy to access as well. As they started to bury the compressor lower , techs had to remove the compressor so they would replace the whole unit. I recently just did the clutch on a 2013 Explorer , had to source the parts thru amazon, dealer didn’t show the part nor did aftermarket supplier in my area.

[@Lancemechanics]

Glad others are still doing this!

[@AllanT-nu4rw]

There was a time when automotive a/c compressors were fully rebuildable/repairable. By this I mean every part of the compressor was available, right down to even the main housing. Sadly they began to cut corners and save themselves money, by making the customers pay for the complete unit. Some manufactures do not even offer the clutch, pulley and induction coil anymore either. I have rebuilt compressors that failed with no available parts by getting another used one and using the best parts of the two for one. The customer fully understands that this is a "promise" it survives and not a guaranteed repair. As for starters and alternators I enjoy fixing the oem units when they need some work. Its possible to go to a scrap yard and get them for your car quite cheap and then restoring them as spares for your car as it ages.

[@mph5896]

I used to do a fair amount of ford clutches only. Super easy and always had good results. Compressors are cheap on rock auto and clutch kits are getting harder to come by, so it gets a compressor

[@Lancemechanics]

Thanks for sharing

[@brianmilliard6998]

Thank you, great video. Saved me a small fortune!

[@Lancemechanics]

Awesome:)

[@lifequalsrootofallevil]

I have a 2012 ford focus. AC was dead when i bought it used. I was new in Canada and it was summer. A shop asked me 1500 freakin $$ to fix it. I lived with it that season. I fixed it this season cos now i got tools and a place of my own. Paid 100$ for the part from kenny upull, 30$ for the freon and its running ice cold.

[@VitoVeccia]

I got burned real bad on just changing the coils. 25 years ago when I'm started, the woodruff key dug in and tore up the seal. I was trying to do it in the car to save the customer on labor hours. Another time the coil melted, and I didn't realize it overheated the refrigerant seal. And on my own Jeep, the bearing had play in it, but the housing seals were leaking. On the 1980's Corvette, the compressor and bearing/pulley/coil kit come separate. And they slide on, instead of pressing on. So those weren't bad, but I learned that it was cheaper to replace everything. But i left automotive in 2014, so if things have changed since then, I get it. Some things do expire, and experience is one of them. Edit: love the star trek reference.

[@hypocriticalharambe8274]

And since then new compressors are only getting worse and will mechanically wear at 70k on more modern vehicles.

[@Lancemechanics]

Honda, even from warrenty encourages coil and clutch replacement before the entire compressor. So we've been doing it on vehicles even 30 years old with great success. Guess depends on the brand..that side note Honda pioneered a way to do piston rings with out pulling off heads. So it's a interesting brand for sure lol

[@jeremyupton850]

Informative video, but I have to disagree...I specialise in vehicle AC, I would say I find that over 90% of compressor faults have been with the internals of the compressor and not the clutch. In fact I usually found that the electromagnetic clutch was the most reliable part! Also note that many of the compressors on newer vehicles do not use an electromagnetic clutch, they rotate all the time and refrigerant flow is controlled by a valve on the compressor being activated by the climate control ECU and not by switching the clutch on and off. Also some clutches require specific/specialist tools to remove them. Also excessive/premature clutch wear can be an indication of internal problems with the compressor. Yes, replace the clutch by all means if that is what has failed but I would only replace on a known good/low mileage compressor. Changing the clutch on a compressor with 100k plus on it is false economy in my opinion, and you are very likely going to get a comeback.

[@gregorymacneil2836]

My Toyota Tacoma's AC stopped working. The dealer informed me that I needed a new compressor, which would cost $1250. When I inquired about the possibility of repairing it, they stated that the unit was not functioning and it had no repairable parts. Upon conducting an online search, I diagnosed the problem and found a clutch on eBay from China. The cost of the clutch, including shipping, was $18. My AC has been working flawlessly for the past 6 years - it took 45 minutes to replace the clutch, and I did the repair without removing the AC Compressor.

[@Lancemechanics]

Good on you man! This is type of stories love seeing it.

[@club_rcfuji]

10-11 RX350 compressors from Denso. Almost 90% of the time the flow sensors fail (drops under 6v) and throws the compressor into failsafe. Now you can't get the flow sensors separately without the compressors (Dorman makes one, but no one is going to risk doing such a costly job twice) - but I've seen shade tree guys throw magnets on top of the flow sensors to raise voltage high enough to keep the ac amplifier happy. Clutches never fail on those.

[@chuckfischer7202]

Long ago, there were tool kits for replacing clutches. Owner's manuals instructed drivers to turn on the AC only while idling. The clutch remained engaged constantly. Now the clutch cycles at expressway speeds. I always consult the customer, give them pros & cons, prices. Tell them what I would do for my own vehicle. Then say, it's your car and your money, choose your poison.

[@clarencemcgregor8568]

Stelantis' eTorque alternator has a similar issue with failing bearings which may fail but would be easily replaced.

[@Soothsayer-rs5nb]

You should be an automotive trainer/teacher. You're very good.

[@Lancemechanics]

Thank you. ;) was for a bit :p

[@brianehly1954]

It has been a few years since I turned a wrench for a paycheck. When I did, we only charged customers for cores that were unacceptable when returned.

[@tonylam9548]

The Camrys around 2015 have no magnetic clutch. It run all the time and depends on variable displacement as load varies. The displacement are controlled by electrical pulses from the computer? that set the angle of the squash plate. I assume the front bearing will have the most chance of failure, the compressor unit cost $2000 Cdn. I discovered all that when I thought of putting a switch and light to control when the compressor will run. The controls for HVAC , including the compressor are all done by signals, to the computer and relays to control the system. Auto relays have not seriously gone to electronics yet, so it is just the old fashioned mechanical type. But they got rid of the flasher units for signal and emergency flasher, it is done electronically build into the main instrument board. The one good thing , the system use 134a, not the expensive 1234, which cost 10 X as much without being any better. I can still bring back 12 oz cans from US to recharge it myself. The best freon was the R12 , I seriously think there is a conspiracy by Dupont , for both the R12 and 134a , they managed to find something wrong with it just at the time when the patent protection were expiring. As for the ozone layer BS , I do not subscribe to the climate religion, and their BS about carbon.

[@KALI1080]

Had to go on a service call for a JD 8650 for no a/c. Customer had been filling the system with that red tek garbage so if I was going to do anything to the system, I would have to flush and decontaminate it first. The compressor clutch coil was shorted and burned up some wiring. All I actually did to get the a/c blowing cold was repair the electrical side of the system and let the customer keep topping up the refrigerant with red tek.

[@anomalous9448]

I like the challenge of learning new things and I need to fix my original compressor on my 67 Buick so I am very appreciative of this video. Now, can I find the parts? 😮

[@Lancemechanics]

Like some one posted in the comments. Finding the vendors for the parts is the hardest part. Takes some research. They seem to be mostly Europe based

[@tedjohnson64]

I love watching videos like this, where equipment is rebuilt rather than simply swapped out for a new part! However… the part about never having customers come back due to the rebuilt compressor failing may be because the customer thinks you “didn’t fix it correctly”, and they then take it to a different shop (where they most likely end up doing a parts swap). Or they could think “the AC failed again? I’m sick of fixing this car!” and trade it in for a newer car. I’d love to hear your thoughts on the state of parts quality now, vs before the pandemic. During the pandemic, a lot of people (due to economic necessity) went to work when they were still feeling poorly, and the quality of the parts coming out of the factory reflected that. They also substituted parts (used alternate component suppliers), due to supply chain issues. Are you still seeing a higher parts failure rate, or do you think parts are now back to their pre-pandemic level of quality?

[@HypocriticYT]

An older compressor can later fail sending metal bits throughout the system. I suppose it depends on the compressor for which ones last and don’t last

[@thecuss6817]

5 years ago I removed an AC compressor clutch shim to repair the AC on my 1998 Frontier. I didn't even need to remove or loosen the AC belt to do this.

[@bobirving6052]

I repair if the problem is the clutch/magnet and parts are available. Don’t mind putting a new one because they usually cost $250, and they do get weak or catastrophically fail often enough, and also the seals get old. New is often better for these reasons. If there is a core charge, the customer should be given the part to return, or should be reimbursed minus the shipping and handling.

[@tonylam9548]

If I have a shop and more than one car, I pull the engine and trans out of the Camry (4 cyl , six sp) and find out where to drill in front to add a dip stick to it. I had a hard time changing fluid without it.

[@rpc938]

If it's magnet clutch, clutch bearing, yes . Can fix well and inexpensive repair. If it's internal to compressor or the compressor is worn and not pumping enough. Then replace with used compressor or new compressor .

[@annasoderlund5924]

I have since 1989 working with Ac. Wery inspire movie. Continue. Thumbs up.

[@annasoderlund5924]

Sorry about the spelling. Very.

[@hsk2451]

Here in Singapore, everybody replaces AC compressors as a whole unit, just like you say. Because the skillset here for repaired AC compressors is just shyte - there is always a comeback within 3-6 months, and even shops that repair AC compressors, refuse to provide anything more than a month's worth of warranty. So much for confidence and skillsets friom these lacklustre mechanics/technicians.

[@markloubser2433]

To test the pump section: if you spin it up with.a 750w drill you will not be able to prevent air with your thumb on delivery side. If bores are buggered you will.

[@jeremylister89]

Replacing the unit with new is popular because the customer's car is fixed quickly and with a guarantee. Choices are to replace the unit (expensive part, cheap labour, fast repair, guaranteed fix) or start a repair 'project' (cheaper parts, more expensive labour depending on experience, potentially slow or even impossible repair). Why not just go 'off the shelf' reconditioned or secondhand part?

[@mechtechtools838]

Hard to find ac clutch kits nowadays

[@kc4cvh]

I replace the compressor clutch bearing on my Ford Ranger when I replace the timing belt and at 351,000 miles, the compressor still works. (Full disclosure statement: The Ranger doesn't get much use since I bought the BMW I3, too expensive to drive.)

[@crazysquirrel9425]

Reason they sell you the whole thing is because they refuse to sell you the part. Replacing the A/C clutch does not require removing the refrigerant. Note: Some cars you cannot even get to the clutch and have to remove the compressor. Nearly every core is rebuildable. It all comes down to cost.

[@doglegjake6788]

Thanks for sharing a great video

[@Lancemechanics]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@jimmyaber5920]

I replace compressors in my shop because they have locked when oil escaped or dessicant bag rupture 90% of the time. If clutch gap is too large and they do hot failure to re-engage then they get a bearing, if needed, and shim removed. I nevercused remanufactured. OE or OEM only.

[@freddaniali]

If you replace the clutch and it lasts more than a month or so, then it is a sign that there was nothing wrong with the compressor. If it blows out again soon after you have replaced it, then there is something mechanically wrong with it, or there is dirt in the metering devices that causes the pump to work harder and burn it out.

[@gjre8w9w9wowow]

I have never been that lucky every time I try replacing a pulley and clutch. It never wants to come off and I end up bending the shaft with a 3 legged puller

[@Lancemechanics]

I usually find a 10mm that can thread into it and hammer on that while holding the compressor by the pulley. Always comes out. Or you can use the old bolt. Kits come with new bolt anyways. Or soak it in Trans fluid if you have time. :)

[@loc4725]

​@@LancemechanicsATF & acetone, 50:50 mix is supposed to be the best release agent.

[@Lancemechanics]

@loc4725 ill have to try it. I know stainless steel bolts in cast iron need the atf to get it to release. Never tried that combo before. Sounds deadly good:)

[@alex1949]

Ive replaced a few coils and bearning on my own cars. Last year, a coil failed on my Kia. I sourced a factory coil, but it didnt fit. I ended up getting a aftermarket compressor. When I took of the original, it was exactly the same. So the compressor was replaced sometime in the past and OE parts dont fit it. :(

[@Lancemechanics]

That's a good point. If don't know history of the vehicle could already have aftermarket parts :(

[@chargermopar]

I had to change the seal on mine, those 1980's Ford compressors are impossible to find new at a good price.

[@Lancemechanics]

Must be a market for rebuilds on those starting. Or someone will fill the niche

[@Aaron-or6ov]

At Toyota after I say 2000 we never replaced the clutch and went with the whole thing. I rather replace the A/C clutch if need be, but we couldn’t. It’s just what they wanted us to do. Probably just another way to make more money.

[@VitoVeccia]

Was it the same thing if it was warranty? I know that customer pay vs warranty repairs don't always coincide with each other. Learned that one the hard way.

[@Aaron-or6ov]

@@VitoVeccia warranty was the same way. We replaced the whole unit.

[@Velkanis]

Been there done this... The older the model of the vehicle tho the less inclined i am to fix it, people already dont pay me enough and dont want to pay my time, they just wanna pay the parts...

[@timbrown9305]

Same as a reman if you confirm tollerances and reject bad parts.

[@Salty4eva]

Instant sub! Awesome tip

[@Lancemechanics]

Awesome, thank you!

[@elelectrotech9374]

in Florida the heat and the horrible public transportation cause people to replace the part, can't have the car down at all.

[@10100rsn]

Always replace seals like the shaft seal and do it right the first time. Also, drain the oil and look for contaminants like the little desiccant balls that can come free from the air dryer. I've seen PT Cruisers with clogged up condensers and orifice tubes and had to completely rebuild the compressor because the damn little Nesbitt desiccant balls getting eaten up by the compressor.

[@10100rsn]

Most of the parts for the compressors aren't going to cost any where near $500. You can find rebuild kits for most older compressors on the internet but the websites are all disappearing now.

[@TheTomBevis]

A guy once asked me about a heater problem he had. He said that the fuse for his heater blower would blow, after a minute of working. I asked him if he just had the hearer going, or if his defrost was on. He didn't know, but he later told me that I was correct that his electric AC compressor clutch was bad. The AC will run, periodically, when the defrost is on, to remove water from the air while the heater is working. The bad clutch was

[@Lancemechanics]

So many forget that ac runs year round :)

[@copisetic1104]

Turbo encabullators are tough to fix

[@rubatoguy]

This is great info, but check the prices first. At least for my vehicle, a replacement clutch unit is only slightly less ($70) than replacing the whole unit. Also consider that replacing the clutch while the compressor is on the vehicle can be difficult or impossible. If you have to remove the A/C compressor, which includes having to evacuate the A/C system (it is illegal to vent refrigerant to the atmosphere,) and there is only $70 difference, and the whole unit comes with a warranty, it may not be worth it. So check your prices and decide. Lastly, you may also need special pullers to get the A/C clutch off the compressor depending on the condition of the unit. So add up your costs and time, then decide.

[@Lancemechanics]

100% very reasonable

[@keithhowell6693]

Finding parts are part of the reason most mechanics don't repair a/c compressor

[@andrenutbrown2284]

I spent less than $3,000 for three vehicles that I owned and one has factory air and the only thing I had to do to it was repair one of the service ports and charge the system it's been working great ever since I'm not afraid to replace the clutch pull the alternator and replace some of the plumbing but then again I've been wrenching since the 80s nothing can take the place of experience if you feel you're going to spend 2003 to fix your AC it's worth it to at least try what do some homework before you do understand what the system needs and whether or not you have the tools to deal with this there are the Will's the wonts and the cants who are you

[@ownytony]

Repairing the ac keeps from having to Evac the system. I see how this "option" can be helpful to a mobile mechanic. But I you quoting for a new compressor, you should have your own Evac machine and maybe "cover" yourself from a callback by installing new complete unit.

[@SkylineFTW97]

I'm at a Honda dealership. We replace compressor shaft seals under warranty on L15 turbo engines. It is a huge pain and it has a lot of liability. I would require a written waiver of liability if I were doing this for money officially.

[@Lancemechanics]

They changed the tsbs for the saturated cluches from needing pressure behind the o-ring to it needs replacement. Honestly still have no problems doing it. Honda compressors have proven how tough they are.. Honda condensers on other hand haha. Have you run Into the broke wire on the 16 to 21 crvs at the pressure switch with 1mm of wire sticking out yet? Entire harness or attempt to repair? ;)

[@SkylineFTW97]

@@Lancemechanics No broken wires, but we've been seeing a batch of bad discharge hoses on the CR-Vs you mentioned. We always clean the clutch when we do it. The condensers, at least on the Civics, are trivial. The CR-Vs are a bit worse with the grille shutters, but they're not the end of the world.

[@Lancemechanics]

@SkylineFTW97 yeah had about 30 or or break off at the wire on the pressure sensor to the left side. You'll run Into some soon enough. After someone changes a hose then it doesn't work ;)

[@Banj0Bansh33]

Awesome video

[@Lancemechanics]

Thanks!

[@javaman2883]

I had the shop tell me it's impossible to repair the compressor clutch on Hondas, because the bolts holding the clutch onto the compressor were internal to the compressor.

[@Lancemechanics]

@javaman2883 well either they are ignorant or lying. ;)

[@klwthe3rd]

You didnt go into how to tell if it's the rebuildable part or if the pump section is what's at fault???

[@meade4573]

Two reasons the compressor gets replaced. For me 90% of the time the compressor fails, locks up, and has to be replaced. Other times it's hard to find a replacement clutch and for the case of Sanden compressors it just makes sense to replace the whole compressor because of the cost of a clutch and like I said, if they fail normally they fail for good.

[@Pumaspeedracing]

I changed the Ac coil on my last car a couple of years ago and 2 years later it was still working fine when i sold car never done one before but there's plenty of vids on h3re to show you

[@davidofrior526]

I find that the majority of the time you're fighting the uneducated and the stupid and unfortunately, those are the people that will will spread your reputation. Way too many people think, forget, or never understood that when you replace something like awater pump, you're not replacing the entire cooling system. When something else goes out in the system, they think it's a warranty issue. They were told, it's on the invoice, and they're still surprised.

[@gutsymovies]

Can u do the clutch repair while the compressor is still mounted on the engine? That way you don't have to remove the lines and purge/refill the refrigerant. Just curious.

[@Lancemechanics]

I've done it on Hondas. That being said I did that 2 times. Found being at the dealer and having the machine and hoist it was much easier to just remove them

[@dharley189]

Compressor “repair” went out with starters, alternators , distributors, PS racks, PS pumps,carburetors and even old mechanical fuel pumps. And all for the reasons you stated plus too many brands and styles for one person to keep up with.

[@Lancemechanics]

I do feel the compressor is still simple enough even a person watching KZbin videos can he confident to give it a go. But the other reasons really influenced it hard.

[@dharley189]

@@LancemechanicsI had 50 year career. Most of those old jobs are 30 plus years since I did them. Memory lane material 😊

[@hungrych1ld281]

My experience is 9/10 times it just needs to be reshimmed. Done it plenty of times and never had a problem.

[@Lancemechanics]

Took out shims for many years. Customers loved it. Super cheap, effective

[@jdesaavedra0432]

If the OE (Denso) compressor on my 2006 Toyota fails after 200,000 miles, I will probably replace it with a Denso compressor for $200.00 rather than troubleshooting the specific cause of failure. Of course, a $40 bearing on a 50,000 mile Honda will get DIY replacement. Since I had repaired my own for over 50 years, I have to look at all aspects.