Your car has problems! How do you find and fix them before they destroy your car?

[@kodywillnauer9422]

Preventative maintenance in general will save so many headaches. Home. Car. Jobs. Life.

[@gregedmand9939]

Yep. People think it's a natural thing to have to repair or replace blown engines, because that is the natural condition for average car owners. I worked in aviation where everything has mandated overhaul schedules. You follow them or your aircraft gets grounded. I spent several years as an overhaul inspector on piston engines. Everything from 4 cylinder Continentals to 18 cylinder P & W radials. It was common place to see engines in for overhaul from a DC-3 with millions of miles on it. It may have had 10 overhauls and only wear items had to be replaced like bushings and cylinder components. A well built engine can last a long time if you take care of it.

[@cherb23]

@@gregedmand9939 People don't replace engines at all the vehicle gets parked forever. Im talking about cheap cars obviously its the law to rebuild your airplane.

[@overthehilldill3626]

Especially wife.

[@kodywillnauer9422]

@@gregedmand9939 learning to fly made me appreciate that sentiment exactly. Can't just pull over in the air.

[@Gonzo_Bubb]

It requires effort though

[@UberArchangel]

You missed something. Something that is overlooked by pretty much everyone. Mechanics, Detailers, etc. Drain holes for the body, frame, unibody drain, etc. Which is why almost all bodies rot out.

[@Mooselover1011]

Hey Wizard, on your Viper check the power distribution center, or front fuse box under the hood for the relay for the fan. That 98-02 fan draws more amperage than the earlier ones, and tends to burn them up. A lot of people use an auxiliary relay switched by the stock wiring, that's how mine is setup, and mine burnt slightly in the past due to that 98-02 fan.

[@robbrobb5543]

That 3.8 is as golden as the Ford 300 6 to be honest. 👌

[@gregedmand9939]

One of my favourite cars of all time was my 85 Buick Century with the 3.8 V6. To me the very definition of reliability and durability.

[@keithrussell2307]

I have a 1995 Buick century with the 3.1 best reliable car 244k I owned it for 18 years and converted it to a 5 speed cause it’s still going strong

[@timw8228]

I kept my mother's '03 Buick Century after she passed away. I had some maintenace done, new struts, new ww Vogue Tyres. Drives like a new one. Very very reliable.

[@exvan3571]

That V-6 was engineered by Buick in 1962. Arguably the best push rod engine ever made. Note: I put 600k on two Olds 88s. The entire cars fell apart around the 3800 engines.

[@gregedmand9939]

@@exvan3571 I've owned a 75 98 and an 88. They've been great cars.

[@Kevin19700]

Those 3.8 are bulletproof!

[@otarsulava]

As of preventive maintenance,I change ALL the fluids on my car: Engine and Transmission oil, Brake and Power steering fluid, Radiator coolant, Differential and Transfer case fluid - if equipped so. I make sure as well the battery terminals are clean, cables are not loosen and have correct tire PSI. ✌️

[@DerDuckPond]

110%. Bought a well maintained Corolla, and the first thing to be done was brake fluid, coolant, oil/filter, and a transmission service. I would have done power steering fluid, if it used it.

[@louarmstrong6128]

​@@DerDuckPondadd PCV valve to that list

[@wilijamesme]

Even with the Ford 4.6L 2v engine, if you have an all plastic intake, get it replaced before it cracks.

[@karlos1060]

Regular oil changes from the engine and transmission will extend your lifespan of the car. That's for sure. Also getting your engine up to temp before heavy usage and changing timingbelts before they are due does the trick. In more then 30 years of driving cars never had big issues at all. And fun part is i drove mostly Alfa Romeo cars! Good maintanance will get you a long way!

[@aliendroneservices6621]

Also change the coolants (2 different coolant loops in my car), and clean out the EGR system. Change the PCV valve.

[@laurat1129]

I can’t wait to see the dustbuster, aka “The Cadillac of Minivans”!

[@MikhailScottKy]

I am getting ready to drive 2000 miles over a 5 day period in my 300k mile 06 Yukon. As such there is a list of the things I am doing before I leave oil pressure sensor, fuel tank pressure sensor, fuel pressure sensor, plugs, wires, coils, coil wiring harnesses, serpentine belt, tire rotation, allignment, oil change on the engine and the transmission fluid and filter. It seems like quite a bit but they are all due within the next 25k miles and this gives me the peace of mind that I will have no issues while driving. PMCS is a MUST for any vehicle. PMCS SAVES you money in the long run.

[@davidedgar2818]

My boss (mentor) taught me that no matter what oil, 3k to 5k was the max. Break in oil was 1k to 1.5k we always required a 1500 mile check to keep the warrant on the job.

[@SouthsideKidd550]

If you own a Honda. You will have to change the VTEC solenoid and rear main seal.

[@johng.4959]

This video is one of the many reasons I watch and love your channel Mr. Wizard. These issues are exactly what the consumer (and enthusiast) needs to hear about. For example, I have retrofitted my 3800 V6 with all the potential issues (Elbows, Intake gaskets, coolant swap, intake etc.) There are some transmission (potential) issues that haven't cropped-up yet... but... I am 100% aware of them. Your "average Joe" needs to know these things in order to not get ripped-off. Thanks for the videos! Love that you don't hesitate to call-out bad engineering!! 👍👍

[@jayjaynella4539]

The 3.8s in Australia do not have those coolant elbows. It does have one alumimium elbow at the front that breaks, as I broke one getting it out. There is a seal that costs more than the elbow and only that one expensive seal fits that part. Ask me how I know. The factory engine mounts go out after about 12 years due to the presence of oil in the mount. Replacement parts available that are solid rubber. Mount on right side is a total bitch to get to, generates lots of frustration and foul language as a byproduct of replacement.

[@poorsap1598]

Torque converter lockup solenoid and pressure control solenoid are 2 I'm aware of, at least on my 06 grand prix. Adding a transmission cooler(instead of the pathetic one inside the radiator) is one good step to help besides fluid changes.

[@poorsap1598]

​@@jayjaynella4539Good point on the motor/trans/torque mounts. I replaced all of mine, they were all shot, made such a huge difference, weren't too bad, just a jack and some sockets on mine.

[@johng.4959]

@@poorsap1598 Yup! On my list of things to do!

[@mph5896]

@@poorsap1598 4t65e is good for about 100-120k before it needs a rebuild. Other common issues with them are the forward band breaking, input piston wearing and leaking, and the 4th clutch hub stripping out.

[@braxtonnelson5375]

I bought a 2011 Dodge Durango R/T in 2014 with 48,000 miles. Very clean and ran great, but it used a quart of oil every 1000 miles. I was told that this was normal on the hemi, so I added oil every 1000 miles until the first time I changed the oil (it had been changed just before I bought it). On my first oil change, I used a factory Mopar filter along with full-synthetic motor oil, and... surprise! It went from using a quart every 1000 miles to less than half a quart in 7500 miles! Then, at a little over 100,000 miles it developed a lifter tick at start-up. My son (who is a car nut) told me that this generation of hemi (5.7L) with DoD (displacement on demand) were notorious for wearing out lobes on the camshaft. I started saving my money for repairs, and he took it to a shop that he trusted that does quite a few hemi cam and lifter replacements-- along with disabling the DoD-- which cost about $4000. They found that the cam lobes were badly worn, and one of them was close to "wiping". The fix included a new camshaft and lifters from the newer 6.2L hemi, which gave a few more bhp, and the shop trued up the heads and exhaust manifolds which were slightly warped. Now, I have no more lifter ticking, more power, and also better fuel mileage (about 1.5 more mpg). Also included at no extra charge was piece of mind. It sure beat buying a new car!

[@mplslawnguy3389]

Does this include 2017 5.7 Hemi’s? I worry about it, and have thought about deleting MDS but I’m pretty sure that would void my warranty. I figure I’ll just stay religious with my oil changes and hope for the best. I’m kind of torn as to what I should do ( or not do). 70,000 miles and still runs great, no oil burning and no tick.

[@ozarkliving7263]

Never buy a Fiat/Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep, Audi/VW, Chevy/GMC/Buick/Oldsmobile, BMW, Mercedes unless it’s the 3.8 engine unless you are a master mechanic and your other vehicle is a Toyota.

[@lupavo1738]

@@ozarkliving7263 In that case, just never buy a car. If I have to be a 'master' mechanic and just drive a Toyota, I'd live a sad, miserable life as well.

[@d47000]

​@@ozarkliving7263Every brand you mentioned has good cars and duds. I've owned four BMWs, one of which has 205,000 miles, and have driven them across the country multiple times. Never had a major issue with any of them. Of course, all were inline sixes, I'd never buy a 4cyl or V8 BMW. Anyways, if all I bought were Toyota Camrys I'd be far more miserable than having a fun car that breaks all the time. To each his own.

[@braxtonnelson5375]

@@ozarkliving7263 Lol! I guess you always get good advice 9 years after you needed it! Also, I've driven many Toyotas (I used to work at a Toyota/Lexus dealership) and found that: A) Reliable basically equals boring; B) They are really not made for larger Americans (I'm 6'4" tall and 300 lbs); and C) When they do break, they can be very expensive to repair (I've seen many "Lexus" parts that differ from the identical "Toyota" parts only in price!) My Durango is very comfortable for me, all of the equipment/options still work great, and it is a blast to drive. And I've had no car note for a few years now (the repair basically cost 9 of my previous car notes!).

[@ne2i]

The thing that amazes me is that a mechanic today has to be versed in all makes and models. Inherent faults and fixes need to be known for all. Well done!

[@RobboElRobbo]

not necessarily. my dad runs a shop and at least in our area there is more than enough business to refuse any bullshit cars, he mostly cherry picks jobs on mid sized trucks

[@jerbear7952]

80% is similar enough or easy enough to figure out but most people still specialize to a degree.

[@stevenjustice6537]

Yes, so true. 6.0 Powerstoke Diesel. Internal EGR cooler. Found out the hard way

[@Viperin98]

On a Porsche 944, do your timing and balance shaft belts as well as the water pump. Also upgrade the stock fuel lines that go over the exhaust manifold because they can leak and cause a fire.

[@chrisaris8756]

To be honest 5000 miles or at least once a year is the minimum oil change interval for ANY car. I love Jaguar but on the F Pace P400 petrol I had until recently they seriously suggested 20k between oil changes. Well, no wonder those Ingenium engines have a reputation for failing. That’s a ridiculous interval - it would be about 4 years motoring for me (I’m in the U.K. and we don’t drive far. Mainly out of fear of being “done” by the 1000s of speed cameras!!!) My new SVR is more sensible at 10k but even then I halve it.

[@ruley73]

It's only the older GM 3.6L engines that have timing chain issues. The newer LGX/LGZ 3.6L engines that GM started using in 2016 have been pretty good. I've been working parts backcounter at a GM dealership for over 2 years and never seen one that needed work to the timing components. The thermostat housing is the only common failure point on those. It should be known that some of the newer GM models still use the older LFX/LFY 3.6L engine (namely, the Enclave & Traverse and the discontinued Impala & CTS). The Oldsmobile Silhouette you're pointing at only came with the Series I 3800. Those did use a plastic heater hose fitting that Dorman makes a metal replacement for (p/n 56359). The problems you describe are mainly applicable to the Series II 3800. The Series III 3800 has an aluminum upper intake, but still used the plastic elbows.

[@42luke93]

Wow thanks for the insight. I was under the impression that all 3.6L were junk according to the car wizard. He misses some details. I noticed the Buick Lacrosses had a 3.8L option but he put it in do not buy list since it had 3.6L engine in a different trim.

[@mph5896]

Isn't it around 2012 + 3.6 that the timing is much improved? I maintained a 2014 Acadia that we ran up to 220k on the original engine. A few friends have 170k on one and 160k on Acadias without engine problems (2012/2014). Impalas with 3.6l, I feel they are quite reliable. I did see a pcv orafice plug up and sludge the back head on a 3.6l though. Deplugged it and ran it with no issues.

[@TomahawkAssault]

@@mph5896 Yeah same here. 2007 Cadillac with an early 3.6L, and one day I pulled the PCV valve and very slightly enlarged the holes to a factory-recommended service bulletin spec. The car has stopped using oil ever since and runs great.

[@digitalrailroader]

Yup, the elbows on my 2006 Buick Lucerne (L26 SIII) were basically crumbling in my hand when I replaced them; the funny thing is that I ran the part number off of one of them with on GMPartsDirect, and it said that part number DOESN’T fit my Lucerne, and yet it was the factory original one installed at the Flint, MI engine plant!

[@ruley73]

@@digitalrailroaderI've found that the fitment info websites like that provide aren't always accurate. It kinda sucks for the folks trying to figure out what they need. I don't mind giving out part numbers, but most dealership parts guys don't like it when people just call in for part numbers. Many times that's the only way DIYers can get them. AllData and the like doesn't have part numbers for obscure parts.

[@kennethross786]

Thanks for the reminder. Based on this video, I went out yesterday and checked my Lucerne's 3.8L V6 - sure enough it had plastic coolant elbows. Thankfully, my local shop wasn't too busy this morning and it now has metal elbows.

[@marshmower]

Watch your coolant condition and avoid key rings. Our 2002 had key issues over and over and the head gasket blew up going down the road.

[@garganega]

My mom's '78 Peugeot wagon owners manual had directions for jumping the cooling fan relay. It saved a few overheats.

[@christopherjohnson520]

Love your Viper, it came out the year I graduated! My "Happy Car" is a 05 first generation Cadillac CTS. Got it late 2020 for summer daily, of course I had a lot done to keep it on the road. The spring of 2022 I had my guy do the timing chains (3.6) at 134000 miles, best questionable decision I ever made, less than 900 dollars engine in job and tune up. What a difference, like night and day. Doing transmission fluid soon before I do another long trip. Great car. 20:20

[@wraithconscience]

You've nailed it, Car Wizard! This theme -- inherent problems -- is exactly what owners and mechanics need to know (research) before buying and while owning any car. It's part of ownership and has to be in the budget -- or you'll pay in tears (and lose the rest of your investment). "Buy what you love, have it repaired -- but more important, have it repaired before it breaks. Great advice!!! (P.S. And Mercedes straight sixes -- great engines, but they blow head gaskets early -- 80,000 to 100,000. They just do. You'll see a leak at the back passenger side of the engine as a warning. Don't wait too long. Go ahead and fix it! Also, late 2000 thru 2003 Saab 2.0 turbos. Great engines, but engine slime. You have to drop the oil pan and clean the oil pick-up sieve and add the crankcase ventilation kit -- otherwise -- boom, no more engine. Might want to do a flushout to get rid of the slime. While doing this, might as well change out the crankshaft bearings while you're there -- it's worth it.) Again, great adice, Car Wizard!

[@austinfrazier7325]

It’s not just the GM 3.6. It’s also the 2.4 Ecotec. They get about 10 years or so old and plastic guides break. Tensioner also gets loose.

[@biggiefitz6275]

Very true. About 10 years then bang! Seen it with less than 100k miles on them too.

[@MariaHeredia-dw4id]

I cry watching Car wizard and Scotty K. I’ve been screwed 3x with car shops in California by greedy scummy mechanics who over charged, did extra work without authorization, and hiding the bill till the job was done; finding an honest mechanic is very very rare

[@petrosaguilar8916]

That's terrible. I'm sorry for all the dirtbags out there.

[@charvakkarpe]

This might be my all time favorite KZbin video. It's packed with valuable information. No wasted time. You tell people straight up what the reality is. Everyone who says, "I always get my car serviced at the dealership." or "I only use OEM parts" can respond to to whether they'd want no CVT maintenance performed or OEM plastic coolant elbows on their dustbuster minivan. You provide actual price ranges that make your stories informative, rather than shying away from stating any dollar amounts. And look at the amazing variety of cool cars in the shop. It makes me feel as though being an intern at Omega Auto Clinic would be the ultimate car mechanic job. I'm an independent mechanic in one of the most expensive areas of Boston, so people bring me awesome cars to work on because it's hard to find any good mechanics here. I serve them to the best of my abilties and am grateful that they entrust me with their cars. Then I watch you with your amazing experience and shop and aspire to someday be as good.

[@jayjaynella4539]

As a short person of 5'1', I love the sight of that van with its easily accessible engine. I no longer need a cherry picker to access the back of the engine bay.

[@kclefthanded427]

Nissan VQ V-6 water pump is powered by the timing chain. Change the water pump, plus timing chain and guides too

[@mikemayne001]

The Wizard is wise! He is correct on everything he said. Preventive maintenance is the best thing anyone can do.

[@globalAV]

Excellent and informative. This needs to be a regular segment on your channel just like cars to avoid.

[@smesui1799]

I once owned a now classic 1966 split-window VW bus. Was a very reliable vehicle. Still regret to this day of selling it.

[@arvbergstedt3303]

My Dad bought a new 1961 VW bus. Engine blew a rod through the side of the block at 23,000 miles. Lousy heater. Gutless wonder. We also had 2 VW bugs. I will never own a VW. A relative had a passat some years ago. Worst vehicule he ever owned.

[@smesui1799]

@@arvbergstedt3303 Glad you had a great experience with that vehicle. Restored, they now sell for around 160,000 us-dollars !

[@tunglam8210]

Consumer Reports is not aimed at the mechanically inclined , but aimed at the layman. Take it with a pinch of salt and you'll be ok. Good work Car Wizard. Love your channel !

[@daveclark8337]

I would recommend deleting the VCM for Honda J35 engines from around 2008-2012 also.

[@SR-ry6hs]

Thanks for your informative video. Love the channel. I'm in the market for a Porsche, and this is the kind of maintenance information we all need.

[@greenfat1]

I don't think that the Toyota iCVTs are in same group as others, but still wise to have fluid changes at 75k IMO.

[@flight2k5]

They’re not, tons of half a million mile Priuses running around.

[@danf4447]

this is what people really need to know before buying a car!! thank you

[@frankwhite2650]

Six months ago I bought a 2002 Taurus with 52,000 miles. The first thing done was a complete transmission flush by a mechanic, not a parts changer trade school grad (yes, we all start somewhere). All new filters and synthetic fluid from NAPA. Cost me over $500. Those cars are prone to transmission problems, at about $3,000+ to replace. My late father often would say, "Grease is cheaper than machinery". The same mechanic does my oil changes at $80 when Jiffy Lube is $45. Same NAPA products.

[@Pillowbiter84]

Just purchased a 2011 Ford Ranger XLT with the 4.0 V-6....I'm very happy it doesn't have all those timing chain issues.

[@ZackAngelMusic]

I've got a Grand Prix 03 with the 3800. Did the intakes myself. Took me three days because I'm DIY and had to make sure it was done right. Could eat off the mating surface it was so clean. I damn pinched the gasket a bit and had to readjust it cause it was leaking coolant, but its taken care of now Been running really good at 138k miles

[@imfloridano5448]

We call it PCMS (preventive maintenance checks and services) which is a term used in military units that have vehicles. As a unit level mechanic fixing what the 11b's broke was aleays a chore due to faking the PMCS

[@walpoleandworcester]

Yeah I would pay special attention to the maintenance schedule of whatever car you have and recall news, etc. And always listen to your gut feeling and getting the car inspected early if anything happens just to be sure there’s no problems and even if everything looks fine on the surface. Thanks for another great video, Car Wizard!

[@jdore8]

Your advice on the GM 1.4L led me to preventatively do the timing chain on my car & I change the oil when the oil monitor says there's 50% life left.

[@V3DT]

One thing to be careful about when doing preventative maintenance is cheap or defective new parts, nothing sucks more than to replace a working part just because it's old only to have the new part fail within a couple months... if it's something hard to get to or can cause a lot of damage if it fails, make sure the part you're installing is quality. That doesn't mean it needs to be OEM all the time, sometimes aftermarket can be better & improve on the OEM designs but too often it can be cheap junk that will break quickly, if it even works to start with.

[@braxtonnelson5375]

I worked in Auto Parts for many years, and as the old saying goes: "They don't make them like they used to!" And your words about "if it's something hard to get to etc." are more true on modern vehicles than ever before! Labor is expensive!

[@kellymorgan3783]

Most of what you are saying car wizard is just common sense but it is really good information for people that just get in and drive there car Good job car wizard.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@SR-ry6hs]

There is no common sense. I get what you are trying to say, but the younger generation has about 1% exposure to these things. I don't think it is common knowledge, among car people yes, buy not so much the general car buying public.

[@alcoyot]

2008 civic has the engine block crack and leak coolant. I don’t think there’s anything you can do. So glad I got a 2012. Other than that year civics are so damn solid and good cars.

[@redblock5949]

Anything VAG expect it to break spectacularly, best fix is not to buy even if the price is tempting it's gonna cost more in the long run than a proper car

[@northwayperformance]

I had a 2006 F150 5.4. To your point. Change the oil! I changed it every 4k miles. I also added a bottle of Lucas every time. I went 260k miles before I traded. Never had a single noise.

[@nononsenseBennett]

A great tip for the undercarriage of any car is to have everything (except braking surfaces!) sprayed with rust proofing oil. There are numerous products that all do the same thing. Keeps fasteners, fittings, wires and rubber components good as new.

[@ozzesty7314]

I had a 351 Cleveland with a leaking rear main seal. Kept the undercarriage coated in oil. Stopped it from rusting.

[@robertsinnott9325]

Good advice,could you recommend one please?

[@nononsenseBennett]

@@robertsinnott9325 Rust Check, Krown, Liquid Film...All about the same. I've used Rust Check 40 years

[@donh215]

@@robertsinnott9325 fluid film

[@robertsinnott9325]

Cheers for the replies...have a 12 year old civic..engine is bomb proof just wanna make sure it doesn't rust like my last car (Toyota RAV4...shocking rust on it haha)

[@NYKgjl10]

Good maintenance is key for your car longevity.

[@HypocriticYT]

Had a 74 Cadillac and with infrequent oil changes it went over 300,000 miles and still going strong though the body was rotting off 😅 only internal engine work was a timing chain, otherwise a bulletproof engine 😊

[@HK-qj4im]

Because of the Car Wizard I just purchased a 1993 K1500 Chevy. ❤👍 The AC still works. The cruise control is inop.. but with troubleshooting info online I've figured it out. A vehicle I can work on. The 5.7L is a great engine too.

[@joshferry3628]

It took me a long time to actually realize this. Owning BMW's I learned to fix ahead. Made the experience owning it much different.

[@logandaniels6055]

Car wizard I have a Cadillac CTS 2005 with 208,400 miles I have replaced the I brought the car 3 years ago I have replaced the transmission radiator ac condenser oil cooler alternator idler pulley and tensioner pulley I have service all the fluids and I a check engine light for a fuel pressure sensor I change the oil at @ 2.5 to 3k miles regularly and use full synthetic oil

[@darius2640]

I had a couple of bad experiences lately that really reminded me of "if it aint broke dont fix it"

[@kiwiwifi]

Purchasing a mechanical insurance policy. Works for me

[@md2k8]

If I plan to look for a used vehicle, that is reliable, fuel-efficient and a commuter, I will either buy a 2011 Mazda Tribute 4WD compact SUV with the 2.5 L four-cylinder engine and the six-speed automatic transmission or a 2012 Mitsubishi Galant mid-size sedan with the 2.4 L four-cylinder engine and the four-speed automatic transmission. These vehicles should be great, if they are well-maintained and they are not abused. Thank you very much to the Car Wizard for doing this video, the previous long weekend.

[@user-zg2zb1vg4u]

vehicles/engines are so expensive nowadays, I change my oil/filter at 2,500 miles, I do it myself, my 2001 s-10 four cylinder has 360,000 miles on it, all original engine, it’s easy for me to do, let it drain overnight in my garage, cost me about $25 every time I do it,

[@dalejones3862]

Every car seems to have these faults built into them to make you buy more cars

[@spartakos3178]

People are not perfect, their designs won't be either

[@danielseelye6005]

​@@spartakos3178In the past, more likely. Nowadays it's not a bug, but a feature. Good ol Planned Obsolescence.

[@spartakos3178]

@@danielseelye6005 there are some issues like that sure, but there is also emission and safety standards, consumer demands for fancy gadgets, designing for all those systems is complex and there will be oversight.

[@SR-ry6hs]

​@danielseelye6005 absolutely, insanely complex, and ready to fail plastic engine parts. Get ready for some serious repair bills when a 2023 hybrid whatever gets to 80-90k miles 😮

[@CRAIGYMAN64]

Wizard you should do a list of plastic parts you normally replace with metal like those elbows! Make a list and work out affiliate links with the manufacturers it's a win for you and us!

[@42luke93]

WoW! Is that a Pontiac Transport in the background? That thing looks clean. Nice to see one being taken care of buy the Car Wizard!

[@kris856]

I am trully amazed with the engieneers work... how is it possible they are so passionate to break the things which used to be fine before they reinvented them

[@alvinmendaros]

Excellent information and advice, Happy 4th of July Weekend 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

[@m1t2a1]

Bought an 11 year old Fusion a few months ago. Parts are available everywhere. It's good to know about the problems Ferrari and Mercedes have.

[@970357ers]

My advice; always search your engine & transmission code on the internet. Engines and transmissions are shared across makes and models, which will produce more info.

[@Hybris51129]

This is exactly why I moved from buying a new GR86 to a Mustang. I went from a car that had at least 3 known engine killing issues with hints of others on the horizon to a car that only really had one known engine killer issue but it was rare to see at stock power levels and replacement upgrades were cheap and available. Always do your research.

[@RockymountainRobert]

1p

[@jasonjohnson7241]

I had an 06 Magnum R/T with the 5.7 Hemi. I was obsessed with the valve seat drop thing that could happen but that never did happen. What did happen was an MDS lifter failure. Out of the blue the loud clacking happened. Turn engine off, restart, no clacking. I promptly replaced all MDS lifters. Took that car to 200k miles with no other problems. Internet was my friend on that. I do check in with forums and groups but you have to take the information with a grain of salt. Alot of people are not good with maintenance and when things fail they rush to the internet to cry about it when it breaks. Yes there are inherent problems with pretty much all cars, even Toyotas, you just have to sift through the bs to get to the good information. Like the Toyota 2.5 cylinder engine water pump. It WILL fail around 30 to 40k miles. Mine was no exception, the wife's 2014 Rav4 started seeping coolant around the pully shaft. Not a big deal, bought an Aisin pump, took about 30 minutes in my driveway to replace. It's at almost 100k miles and the Rav is still perfect, because it's a Toyota, but it does has that little defect. Moral of the story: All cars suck, it's just different levels of suck. Buy the car you want but know what you're getting into and do the work to keep that car running.

[@rickb6694]

Hyundai Theta II 2.4 engine runs butter smooth if you DON'T follow the factory oil change interval and you DON'T use the oil shown on the cap. Mine likes 5W30, and change the oil every 4-5K miles. NEVER let it run low, and check it after every time you fill the gas tank, it may burn oil but the manual doesn't tell you that. All the popping and pinging is the engine saying it hates the 87 octane that the manual says is fine. Feed it 93 octane and it calms down, shuts up, and pulls stronger especially hot days when it's lugging with the AC blasting. One of the few engines it's not a placebo effect. Our shop keeps it on a BG service schedule as well. Some may balk at these preventive measures, but go ahead, my car's paid for, and it's all wayyy cheaper than buying a new one.

[@thebeddoctor4273]

2006 toyota sienna. Just turned 250k. Never broke down. Just do preventive maintenance. Just did a major list at 250k to make sure I can go another 250k. Did the alternator for example even though it still worked because I don't want to be on a trip and it go out. 250k on the original is good enough for me

[@sean.f23]

BMW B58 is pretty bulletproof, but almost all known engine failures are due to injector failure. had them done at 70k along with all fluids. lots of people told me it was a waste of money to do that early. ok, I don't care, I spent $700 30k miles early for peace of mind knowing my $25k engine is safer... then those same people spend $5k on bags. lol alright buddy🤷‍♂ I try to buy vehicles with few/none known issues but always do pretty meticulous preventative maintenance on all of them.

[@d47000]

I was running canyons with a guy whose M2 had an injector stick open and hydrolock his engine. 60k miles.

[@JavierCR25]

Scotty and The Wizard have become the light beacons for auto enthusiasts and regular car owners.

[@goofeygrimtales2010]

Car wizard is right about the mercedes. I had to do motor mounts, belt, fluids, coil packs, spark plugs, air filter, trans mount, brake pads, rotors , and tie rods. Oh and a new fan cause when I got it, the radiator fan sounded like a jet engine the it burned out. 😅

[@8MunchenBayern8]

My 2011 C300 is about to hit 100K miles and all I’ve done is normal maintenance. Synthetic oil, trans fluid, brake fluid. So reliable. W204 is a great modern Mercedes that I recommend to people. Only thing that’s happened in that 100 K miles is that the driver side lock actuator stopped working idk

[@thomcasey2005]

I couldn't agree more on these points. One major one to mention is "IGNORE THE OIL CHANGE SOON LIGHT" in all cars. Change your oil by miles (3-5k), not when the computer tells you. The computer always stretches it out and can end your engine.

[@bradw9620]

Another great video Wizard! Cheers

[@privateer0561]

How do you know if you own a car that has inherent problems? 1. It's Italian 2. It's German 3. It's British Spin the wheel after that.

[@smesui1799]

Except the old VW bug & bus !

[@ghoulbuster1]

It's German It's American It's Japanese It's Chinese It's French It's Italian It's Swedish It's Brazilian It's South African It's Pole

[@orkoto6057]

0. Its a Renault

[@ozarkliving7263]

@@ghoulbuster1are you mental?

[@TomahawkAssault]

In 2018 I bought a 2007 Cadillac STS with the 3.6L High Feature V6 with 47k miles. I later learned about the timing chain and gasket issues, and found out that it can be mitigated by enlarging the holes on the factory metal PCV valve. The holes from the factory are so small, they are like little pinpoints, resulting in insufficient crankcase ventilation, which starts a vicious snowball effect of increasing internal crankcase temps, which pushes oil out of the crankcase where it eventually goes into the throttle body, using oil. As the oil level goes down, the timing chain is eventually starved for lubrication and fails. The excess heat buildup increases crankcase pressure, which increases heat buildup even more, which pushes more oil out, causing gasket failure, and on and on it goes. Enlarging those holes on the PCV valve to a certain spec (7/64" for the single hole on the top side, and 5/64" for each of the two holes on the bottom side) helps relieve excess crankcase pressure and heat, which means oil is not lost, at least not nearly at the same rate, keeping the timing chain lubricated and preventing excessive heat buildup. This simple modification, combined with regular 3-5k mile oil changes and oil checks between changes will go a long way toward mitigating and even completely preventing the oil loss, timing chain, and gasket issues for the GM 3.6L V6, at least on the early models like mine. I can attest first hand that after performing this mod, the car does not use oil anymore. Before the mod, I found myself regularly having to top off the oil, but now it does not use but maybe a half quart of oil between oil changes. I wish Car Wizard would verify that this is indeed a real thing that people can do to help their GM 3.6L last a lot longer, since there are so many of them out there and a lot of people who have them who cannot afford another vehicle right now. Simply calling them absolute trash and telling people to avoid them at all cost does nothing to help the many people out there stuck with one who should know that a dirt-simple, free mod that takes only 5-10 minutes to do could possibly save them a lot of trouble.

[@lukewalker1051]

Its because the Car Wizard is a dope. I have written comprehensively as an automotive engineer who worked at the Cheyy Tech Center in Warren, Mi where the 3.6L GM 'corporate' V6 was developed and its in 'everything'...tens of thousands sold and I know hundreds of people that own it in Camaros, Cadillacs and SUV's. The Car Wizard is clueless about the GM 3.6 which is one of the best V6's in the industry. I own one today and have owned several. If you change your oil in high frequency....3-5K you don't have to modify the PCV orifice size. This suggestion is due to higher change intervals which blocks the PCV due to sludging, increases, crankcase pressure promoting higher oil consumption and what kills timing chains is running the engine out of oil. High detergent synthetic...any name brand 5-30W will keep the top end clean and these engines will routinely do 200K miles. The design itself is very robust. I have a 2009 LY7 port injected 3.6L and is sounds like swiss watch and pulls like a performance car. It will also rev easily to 6500 RPM due to variable valve timing for both intake and exhaust. What is ludicrous is dopey Car Wizard who could never cut it in engineering school denigrates an entire corporation for one of the best engines in the industry.

[@Michael-kd4oi]

You do need to specifically say what gen engine that has this issue. The it effects a specific year range. But all the gen 3 have no tensioner issues.

[@svetlanaivnitskaya3504]

I noticed you never featured a 10th generation Impala and the 2015 Impala has been recommended by Consumer reports so that one I am planning to buy! I want 45 inch legr room but without the overt opulence expense of the Lexus 460.I am tall guy 6 ft 3

[@lancegraham7722]

Ha ha ha just had my c200 mounts done today. Massive difference. Highly recommended and for $ 200 bucks labour and $200 for parts, wow, what a great idea. Oil changes every 6 months regardless of kilometres travelled, and just for shits and giggles I had the kompressor rebuilt. Maintenance people.

[@Henry_Jones]

DUSTBUSTER VAN! LETS GET A VID ON THAT!!! Its the CADILLAC of minivans - John Travolta

[@digitalrailroader]

4:09 I had to stop the video and laugh; because in an ironic twist I’m listening to this video as I am replacing the coolant elbows (with the ACDelco metal replacements; part# 91051-19 for the upper elbow, and 91051-20 for the lower elbow) in my 2006 Buick Lucerne!!

[@andrewdonohue1853]

i have a 2003 bonneville SSEi, 3800 supercharged. i replaced the stupid elbows before i went on vacation in maine last month LOL. it surprises me, the car is 20 years old and still had those crappy elbows

[@knoester7714]

Thank you for sharing this good to know information

[@bluesplayer59]

Shortage of hard cash is why many folks are forced to run around in vehicles with threadbare timing belts and worn discs . In an ideal world wed just drive up to the garage and get it done ... unfortunately living is getting tougher for a lot of people ..

[@Bdamazyn]

Sometimes. I have coworker with a Ridgeline and he just refuses to change to timing belt. We make decent money but he's just happy playing risky games. 🤷

[@georgebettiol8338]

@@Bdamazyn A large proportion of humanity only learn from experience. I know of a person that owned a Porsche with the M996 engine. The person did not heal to the advice to change the bearing and the result was a catastrophic engine failure. He did 'learn' in the end.

[@motroman1]

Would like you to talk about the water pump failures in Ford Duratec and Ecotec engines. I have a 2009 Ford Flex with the 3.5 Duratec engine. It has 72k miles and the engine oil has been changed every 5k with synthetic oil. I worry about spontaneous failures.

[@piggy310]

Why worry, that's a pretty good engine.

[@wigletron2846]

If it starts seeping the coolant will dilute the oil then bye bye engine.

[@Monza62000]

my 95 transport 3800 still looks an runs like new 187,000 miles an its red paint is still great

[@HypocriticYT]

Too many used vehicles do not have dealership maintenance records. Even if it does it doesn’t guarantee that the work was completed 😮

[@dagamer667]

Here are two more that truly deserved a spot on this video. 2006 and up Nissans with CVT transmissions. AAAND all newer Mazdas with 2.5L boosted engines between 50 and 100k miles. If it didn't have the head gasket and the head replaced, it's pretty much guaranteed to do it after you buy it. Odds are, the vehicle is already exhibiting symptoms and the owner wants to get rid it vs fixing it. 20hour job and $2000 in parts. Do you feel lucky? Do you?

[@floridaroadracerguy]

Chevy V6 4.3 intake manifold gaskets. Fix it before coolant gets in the crankcase and ruins your bearings.

[@ChrisTheBmxGuy]

Not just 4.3 its the 5.7 as well. Plastic intake gaskets in those fail. Only good set ive found were felpros.

[@AB-jk7tw]

One life lesson that you quickly learn when you own any German car is that doing preventative maintenance is absolutely essential if you don’t want sky high repair bills in the future.

[@ozarkliving7263]

You will still have high bills beyond the warranty period

[@poorsap1598]

The car care nut has a lot to say about maintenance items for toyotas and lexus. Definitely worth a follow and watch. There are even some combo items for certain motors. Like timing belts. Doing the whole kit with it, not just a belt, but pulleys, drive belts, new coolant, and water pump. Will be probably $600-$800 but should last you 60k-90k miles. Also spark plugs, simple cheap plugs that can add a considerable amount to your bill. For instance the labor cost for the rear 3 on some models is 4 hours, plus things to look for are throttle bottle cleaning and gasket, coil packs with new clips, valve cover gaskets, pcv, and plenum gasket. A few dollars worth of plugs can easily turn into $1k worth of labor and parts, but should last you 100k miles. Biggest thing is do your research. If none is available because you bought new, then look to past experiences with similiar make/models assuming no new tech/motor/trans.

[@jamesnall569]

I recently replaced my nephews valve covers on his 2010 Ford Flex 3.5L with 165K miles and noticed the rear timing chain is loose but no noise or anything. Me and my nephew both agreed to not fix it and let it ride due replacement costs. If you replace the timing chain the water pump has to be replaced as well and vice versa. We won’t put out over $2000 to fix it and definitely is not worth putting that much money into a Ford 3.5L engine.

[@MastersOfMask]

Changing the torque converter while doing the DOD/AFM delete in GM vehicles saves one from another headache. GM torque converters are weak and are known to destroy transmission when they go bad.

[@docgiggles130]

I would add in the timing chain replacement on the GM ecotec 2.2l and 2.4l engines. It doesn't tell you that you should replace them at around 150k miles. The engine will last a long time with regular oil changes and that timing chain replacement. Too bad it's a lot of work to replace.

[@henrykim4230]

I have seen many Ford 54 owners with 300k+ miles. They did change their oil every 3 to 5k like Wizard mentioned. Skip oil change interval on these, it is GG like he said.

[@TheTradosaurus]

Another one is the 2005-2010 Ford mustangs with V6. Had plastic thermostat housings. Replace with metal

[@sgttombailes3380]

I have a "99 996 Gen 1. It came w/ a dual row IMS bearing. However at 50 K miles the IMS was replaced with a LN Engineering ceramic IMS just for peace of mind. Also replaced everything else while the engine was out. No worries now.

[@Flies2FLL]

IMS bearing failure over all on the M96 engine is 9%. That comes from the Porsche Club of America magazine. Great video!

[@peem1244]

I also heard that the bearing tends to fail in lower mileage 'weekend' 996's which spend a lot of time garaged. 👍✌

[@mwatwell67]

How about a 2013 Hyundai Veloster. I have a brand new engine from Hyundai recall. Anyting else I should check.

[@tedbiernacki376]

Wizard ! You failed to mention Subarus in your CVT diatribe! I guess in 2019 it was straightened out ! But the weird thing is , in the US manual all it says is see dealership , doesn't say when to ! In the Canadian manuals it's says service every 30K miles ! Go figure!

[@wigletron2846]

The US has a 100k mile warranty on the CVT but you can't service the transmission. It's a rip off. No transmission will last if it's never serviced within 100k miles.

[@XennialGuy]

Though I respect your knowledge an automotive tech skills in general, I wouldn't touch the rear brakes on a Gen 1/2 Viper. I know the guy who originally designed and worked with Brembo to get that setup perfectly matched on those model years. We used to do HPDE a few times together when I had my two Vipers. He said they had to do a lot of R&D that to get the balance right so it wouldn't spin out of control on hard braking. Remember, there's no ABS. Someone brought their shiny Gen 2 to the track that same summer and it had the rear brakes upgraded. And low and behold he didn't make it to the end of the day, spun out of control tapping the brakes and got snake bit and lost the to the wall. 😢 An aftermarket company offering a brake kit didn't go through the rigorous R&D the OEM engineers from the factory did.