It's your fault that I rescued an old YJ from the woods at my in-law's house, assembled a 4.0/4.6 stroker for it, for the wife to drive, and am now building a 1968 Rambler into a gasser. Thanks for the practical nature of yoir channel. For 20+ years I was hesitant to start certain projects for want of the "right time and resources". Well, there is no right time better than now. Thanks.
@allurared9029 Жыл бұрын
Yep, no better time than now to get as many toys as you can... The hard truth is it's only going to get harder to enjoy being a gearhead.
@merr6267 Жыл бұрын
@@allurared9029 for sure. I had not paid much attention to price and availability of parts for the stuff want to build for about 10 years. Wow, was I shocked. Junkyards have dried up (around here anyway) and new parts, if you can find them have tripled in price. Yay. I've got a pretty strong desire to hoard now. Haha
@allurared9029 Жыл бұрын
@Phillip Merrill Yep same here. I'm 19 and got into this 3 years ago. I'm amazed looking back at the prices then compared to now. People think what should be a parts car is worth restoring and worth $3000. Especially higher trim models or muscle cars.. we are in the era of $5000+ for a rusty shell. Michigan is especially short on parts, a lot of cars got so rusted and rough they went straight to the shredder rather than become a parts car in a yard.
@yurimodin7333 Жыл бұрын
like David Freiburger says "Don't get it right, just get it running"
@mschiffel1 Жыл бұрын
Back in the 1960s when I was learning to rebuild engines under the shade tree, we mixed up all the valve springs, rockers, pushrods, and lifters in a bucket of gasoline to clean them. When everything was clean, we took chassis grease and lubed the crank and rod bearings, and everything else that moved. Put everything together. Who knew that parts should go back where they came from? The engine fired up and ran just fine which was amazing. We were 14 and 15 year old kids then and we surprised ourselves. The engines we worked on were old flathead Mopars and Chevy sixes. The V8s would come later. But we all learned. And the cars kept running. And we never heard of a torque wrench either.
@knoxmotorsports Жыл бұрын
I seen my dad when I was young. He worked away from home he could rebuild the 292 in his old Ford unibody with out pulling motor new rings and bearings going valves by hand and it was running in 2 days.he drove thousands of miles over the years and it always worked for him .
@pghgeo816 Жыл бұрын
My buddy did that he rebuilt a chevy 350 the same way. I was dubious. But that engine ran strong for I don't know how many miles. The truck rusted out and the engine went into the corner of his garage in running condition.
@bartsarton2212 Жыл бұрын
I seen my dad when I was young too.
@bobber55 Жыл бұрын
@@bartsarton2212 isn't that something. I 'saw' mine as well.
@bobber55 Жыл бұрын
I agree wholeheartedly. We all make judgment calls everyday and we don't realize it even on the simple things. Sometimes however the decision is made for us. A good example of this is when I used to work on forestry equipment the bolts that hold the cutting knives in place on the brush chippers, the manufacturer recommends reusing the bolts once. And always use torque oil on the threads and tighten to 210ft. lbs. And because of the liability involved, I kept record because a lot of customers wanted to keep reusing they're old bolts. I understand even back then they were expensive but so is a broken knife revolving thousands of RPMs. I have seen the blades open up like a can opener the 3/16" plate the chipping chamber was made out of. This was on a Vermeer BC1000 considered a smaller machine. The BC1800 is what I worked on most. They are a no joke machine.
@greggc8088 Жыл бұрын
My first engine job was a big block Chevy 402 out of a 2 door 71 Caprice I had in high school. It was using a quart of oil every 100 miles and had a main bearing knock on start up. A turned crank and a new set of rings with a 280 duration and .563 lift cam and 750 double pumper later it was all better. The motor was so heavy, I had to pull the heads off first and install them last so the oak tree limb wouldn't break. 🤣🤣
@thekikendallsautoandrandom1271 Жыл бұрын
Tony, the oil filter adapter- it SHOULD be a T50 Torx, but word of warning, its a pain to get loose, but almost a requirement when doing a refresh. Most gasket kits dont come with the O-rings for it, (my last felpro didnt) and you sometimes need to order it seperately. Best way to get it off is give it some heat, and work that torx back and forth. Theres a roll pin from the block to the filter adapter that will snap if you go full beans on the wrench (the adapter will spin instead of the torx bolt). Just a tidbit of hard earned AMC I6 knowledge. The water jacket ports you mentioned were a carry over actually from the AMC 4.2L I6 heads, the 4.2 has the corresponding ports in the block if I remember correctly. Keep up the good videos bro!- The Kikendall
@reigndown Жыл бұрын
It was always a T60 on the ones I've done, which is a pain for some people because most basic torx sets stop at T55. In the vehicles that use the adapter there's not enough room for a standard length T60 to fit, so you often have to cut one down. It is a pain to get off without heat like you said, which I've been told is due to factory thread locker. It makes sense, since you don't want your oil filter adapter to start loosening at some point in its life, but it does make getting it off in the vehicle a knuckle busting affair. In the vehicle, it comes out easier on a hot engine, but outside of it without the frame rail in the way it is much easier and you can just hit it with an impact. Luckily if you live in the rust belt and the exposed part corrodes you can still get a mopar part for it.
@vincentbentley1079 Жыл бұрын
Not all are Torx, my '93 has a cap head bolt needing an allen key and I know that was installed on the production line.
@mikebougher3731 Жыл бұрын
I'm going to have to come back and watch this. Blues Brothers is on tv and it's too hard to pay attention to both. 🤣
@michaeledge8905 Жыл бұрын
I'm 64 and have been a mechanic forever working in many situations including a engine remanufacturing facility and never once had to break in a cam stock or mild performance. A lot of regroups cams used aswell. For whatever reason I never had a cam failure so other than quality or the early oils we had at the time not sure what changed.
@setha360 Жыл бұрын
It was not a problem till they took zinc out of the oil, because of catalytic exhaust and most modern engines use roller camshafts.
@chevystuffs5971 Жыл бұрын
Great Content Tony. Real talk about how to make judgment calls is definitely worth listening to!
@jeffwheat1525 Жыл бұрын
This why you are awesome Tony. You correct the things people say that may not be completely right but you also understand that we never stop learning and you have no problem being corrected on things you may not have learned yet. This 8s the reason I love your channel. It's real and honest. I've learned a TREMENDOUS amount from you since I've been watching you. Thank you for sharing your real world knowledge!
@donaldhill2775 Жыл бұрын
🏆 good stuff Tony ! Basic common sense, bad worn bits out - good unworn bits in, job done, wash the lot in a bucket of diesel, new oil pump, box of gaskets, few tube’s of jollop, spanner’s, sockets, torque wrench, steel ruler and a set of feeler gauges, that is really all you need, clean cylinder bore’s by HAND using fine wet & dry and your diesel, cross hatch pattern, just take the glaze off, don’t imagine your honing your own bores, if you have a wear ridge at the top of the bore you can detect with your fingernail it probably needs a re-bore, crank ? Your old bearings will tell you what’s happening there, run the finger nail across the journal’s, you can simply re-ring pistons but a new set is preferable and if they are press fit have them professionally pressed on the rods, let the machinist have a look at your crank while your in there perhaps ! Go mad and bung a new timing chain set on too 👍
@jasondearduff8274 Жыл бұрын
I broke an ARP head bolt on a small block Chevy race engine once. Not having another I dug around in the bolt bucket. Found a stock one. Threw it in and never looked back. I rebuilt that engine every year. And continued to use that stock bolt. Just out of spite
@richardross7219 Жыл бұрын
Rebuilding an engine is excellent reason for buying a set of mikes(inside and out), a dial indicator, and a good vernier caliper. I remember being taught to test the bottom of lifters with the side of other lifters. On many of the old Chevy s, I had to use a special lifter pulling tool. Good video and discussion. Good Luck, Rick
@craighansen7594 Жыл бұрын
Instead of a lifter puller push them out the bottom. If those lifters are really bad they could be mushroomed and will gouge the lifter bores if pulled out the top.
@kevinmcguire3715 Жыл бұрын
If you invest in all these nice measuring devices ,send "em out once a year to a metrology lab and get them calibrated to NIST standards. Otherwise the micrometers are just C-clamps
@richardross7219 Жыл бұрын
@@kevinmcguire3715 My mics are 40+ years old. The trick is to have standards to measure against and adjust the mics. As long as everything is at 68* there shouldn't be any trouble.
@kevinmcguire3715 Жыл бұрын
@@richardross7219 :I ran a metrology lab here in Silicon Valley for some years until I retired .You might be amazed at what micrometers can be checked for.. Visit a lab and check it out . They don't give you optical flats in your micrometer case for example. How would you know your micrometers anvils are parallel . Those little bars they give you in the mike box get checked also for squareness and accuracy .Tenth mikes are worth keeping in periodic cal especially if you want to do buisness in today's biz world as it is generally required. When I started out in machining as a kid, measurement devices were calibrated to a platinum -iridium bar kept in France. Nowadays they utilize light waves of Krypton 86 and are quite portable.
@richardross7219 Жыл бұрын
@@kevinmcguire3715 That's in a lab not in a garage. The tolerances really weren't that tight on Chevy 250s, 283s, 350s, and 396s. A lot of it was plus or minus several thousandths. The only really tight specs were the bearings. I use Plastigauge on them. I rebuilt several dozen engines and all ran for many years. The cars rotted around them. The last time I rebuilt a Chevy 350 was 22 years ago. Its in my C-30 Chevy and runs fine but is only a yard truck because of body rot. Since then I mostly do small engines. When I need them, I have a 250, 283, and a 350 in my basement waiting to rebuild. I always do an oil change after only a 15 minute break in. Then one at 4 hours. I also put Marvel Mystery Oil(MMO) in the gas. I experimented with MMO in 1970 when I was playing with a '63 283 to put in my '64 Chevelle for drag racing. MMO does a great job of cleaaning combustion chambers and freeing piston ring grooves. Good Luck, Rick
@zakuraayame5091 Жыл бұрын
I like the idea of an assembly line with a bucket of sealant and them loading a magnetic socket, dipping and ripping it into place
@sometimesleela5947 Жыл бұрын
there just isn't a ruler big enough to slap the engineers who designed it that way. -another eng.
@alanmoore78 Жыл бұрын
7:03 after learning about engine building from books only throughout my teens and twenties, I didn't do a top end rebuild on anything until I was 30 years old with a 3.3L Intrepid engine with 157K miles. Imagine my surprise when the forums and how-to's about an otherwise perfectly normal pushrod V6 engine talked about replacing head bolts and intake manifold bolts. I thought it was ridiculous...until I looked at the bolts I pulled and you could see the difference between the stretched portions and the unstretched portions of the threads. So I bit the bullet and bought sets of bolts from the dealer. Waited 3-4 weeks for them to come in. Got the heads back from the machine shop, got a bolt extracted from the intake, received all the gaskets and things I needed. Finally the bolts show up and I do my reassembly and everything's fine. Drove the car for a bit, sold it to a friend, she moved across the country and had it at least 3-4 years. Traded it at 225K miles on a new car, regretted that 4 years later out of warranty when the engine in the new car locked up. She ran into the girl at work that SHE sold the Intrepid to and it was doing fine at 260K. So while I understand the desire to have durable parts that can work in a looser engine many times, I also understand the need to have less than durable parts to allow them to work REALLY WELL one time maybe two times. And if it means I have to buy a $120 set of bolts for a head gasket and valve job to get 150k or more out of it rather than not spend it and be doing the job again in 60K miles...well...I don't mind spending that money.
@craighansen7594 Жыл бұрын
Something to consider on the valve stem heights. If you are working with a older engine that may have had several valve jobs the valve seat and valve face probably have been reground, several times. This will show up when comparing the valve stem heights.
@christinamoneyhan5688 Жыл бұрын
Tony, my son and I did a rebuild on a 2.8 (I think) liter 84 Cherokee in our basement. Why? Because he wanted to and he wanted to learn. I’m not a engine builder but I do have some experience in doing it. All said and done it ran very well. This was in 1998. He joined the Army and took engineering and became crew chief on black hawks then on to build jet engines. You just never know how many people you are helping In life with sharing your unselfish knowledge. 🙏🏽👍🇺🇸✌🏻
@gundude82 Жыл бұрын
The 2.8l would have been a GMC V6 which are only found in the early ones. Cherokees also came with a 2.5l I4 and the 4.0l I6
@christinamoneyhan5688 Жыл бұрын
@@gundude82 thank you for informing me that 2.8 was GMC.
@blindguysgarage Жыл бұрын
I like these little engines I have garage and roadside rehabbed quite a few of these very easy to work on just don’t forget the sealer on that one bolt lol
@jaylestingi5418 Жыл бұрын
If you are going to re-use valve springs on a 100K mile engine that has most likely overheated more than once, I think it would make sense to check the pounds at both open and closed installed height, compare them to factory specs--THEN make your decision. Maybe the reason some of the valves started leaking is because the springs overheated and lost tension? You could get a decent spring rate tester without overspending and for newer guys who may not have the equipment, any decent machine shop will measure them for you for a fee. I think it's a fools errand to just "chuck 'em back in" on an old engine that you want to be reliable and go the distance. XJ 4.0 are popular, a basic single spring set can't be more than $150 max.
@jonnardjackson2884 Жыл бұрын
Everything you’ve said about this rebuild makes big sense! This design is a real work horse! Just to get down the road with easy durability! Great call UTG! ❤️👍🏾💪🏾😊💯
@edbiller8455 Жыл бұрын
just like pop would say: chrome don't get ya home
@L.A.Concrete Жыл бұрын
My first engine was a 460 ci ford I put into an 79 f-600 rollback still running and I proud of it😂😂😂
@marclaforest3282 Жыл бұрын
Probably your best video series . Pure information and judgment .
@rescuedandrestoredgarage Жыл бұрын
Love the channel brother you do a great job. Keep up the great content 👍. So love the 66 charger brings joy to my heart.
@meltysquirrel2919 Жыл бұрын
🐿 On an old AMC 196 just plan on retorquing the head bolts occasionally according to the schedule in the manual ☺ When I get around to rebulding mine I am planning on using ARP studs 😁 And I am learning some things thanks to UTG 👍
@3MonkeysGarage Жыл бұрын
Glad you brought some of this stuff up. Disposable Headbolt Theory, Camshaft break-ins, these weren't even a thing back when we were going through an old 327. Now on the Camshafts in an older smallblock chevy, I really drag the breaks on replacing one. If it aint broke, don't fix it. (rant here) What I find to be nuts is, whether it is a change in oil or metal, instead of the manufacturer of either one correcting it, the general public has just accepted it and roll the dice on a camshaft shaving its parts into the oil pump and wiping out their crank shafts or whatever else these particles make their new home. Then you proclaim your happiness when a vender hands you a replacement camshaft, for the replacement camshaft you just bought. While you are going to eat the rest of the damages inside the engine and the time to tear down and replace the cam again. And, to my knowledge, for the past 20 years we have accepted the unacceptable. Representatives from the camshaft companies, who did farm these out overseas on us, pointed fingers at the oil manufacturers and said, "sorry, try another camshaft, it's the best we can do". As though now it was on you the consumer to battle the oil company and prove it was the oil's fault. And we all went along with it. The truth is, people should have gotten together when this stuff began and hammered on the camshaft makers, and made them prove it wasn't their failing product. Which, again, had just failed. Because to me, what has been accepted, is really unacceptable. Either one of the products, or both, is failing to do the job it was designed for and being presented to the consumer. Tip of the day, don't buy parachutes based on this standard.
@bikeshack8225 Жыл бұрын
Thanks very much for your wisdom Tony. I am following along with this series as I begin rebuilding a Kawasaki motorcycle engine from the 90s. Parts are about 10x harder to come by compared to automotive and more expensive sometimes too, so I appreciate you thinking of viewers who cannot just go out and replace everything (price would exceed the value of an entire running bike).
@mr.mojorisin9999 Жыл бұрын
I work in an auto shop, had a spare motor to build to replace my smokey 350, tore the motor down, scheduled with the machine shop, hit two deer, sold the motor fixed the body, drove smokey for another year bought a crate long block.
@ianlangley987 Жыл бұрын
Hi Tony, very good videos on this subject and you are very clear in the way you covering it. On the valve lengths being the same, I have worked on many engines tover the years, that had adjustable tappets so surely this wouldn't be the same issue? I never worried about it and the engines ran well. The engines I worked on were all just family type cars and not racers. Cheers Ian - New Zealand
@edge2sword186 Жыл бұрын
After doing a lot of research on flat tappet camshaft failures most experts explain after testing the metals and finish on both lifters and cam that the problem lies in trying to add Zinc to modern passenger car oils because it won't mix properly . The experts tell us that using a non detergent oil plus adding the fines or a race specific oil like Joe Gibbs or Brad Penn type oils will insure the proper break in and wear patterns without pre mature wear . Case in point , My brother runs successful bracket cars with mechanical camshafts for years and never has any camshaft failures using the oils i mentioned .
@forthwithtx5852 Жыл бұрын
Subaru head bolts (my particular engines) can be reused, but there is a different tightening spec for pre-stretched bolts (used) vs. new.
@scotcoon1186 Жыл бұрын
Cummins n14 head bolts torque to 90 ft lb, 240 ft lb, + 60 to 120 degrees. I have the plastic go-no go gauge for measuring head, rod, and main bearing bolts. There are ones for the L10 and M11 as well.
@seahorse5677 Жыл бұрын
Some of the oil build up in the ports is, in fact, from the CCV system. The breather from the valve cover is actually routed to the intake air duct. The line from the intake manifold to the valve cover is the fresh air inlet into the engine. The Jeep straight 6 one of the last mass produced passenger car engines that doesn't feature some kind of air/oil separator. All Jeep owners must install an oil catch can. Oil in the intake air charge is never good under any circumstance.
@The_R-n-I_Guy Жыл бұрын
I don't like to replace anything unless I absolutely have to. I don't care if you're supposed to or not. If it's not broken, I'm gonna try to reuse it. Unless I'm planning on upgrading to a performance part. I've wanted to get a new cam kit. But after everything I've seen and heard. I'm scared. I can't afford to do it once, so twice is out of the question
@gmjunky87 Жыл бұрын
My first car 87 cavalier. Blew head gasket. Dad said "wanna replace it or scrap the car?" I said replace. He sighed said "ok" We took head off and found a crack. We surfaced the block and head with a air angle grinder and 3m pad, slapped the head back on with new gasket, re used the head bolts. Threw some bars leak in and it ran like a top!
@DoktorJeep Жыл бұрын
This is one of the cornerstones of the "Car Web". Thanks Tony.
@jeremiewampler Жыл бұрын
Easy to tell a tty bolt is the degree angle after a numbered torque spec, if it says to finish with an angle it’s a torque to yield….however my 350k mile Honda has had the head off multiple times on factory bolts without issue
@donaldhalls2189 Жыл бұрын
Ye in the old Holden's and Ford's never had to replace the head bolt's until EA Falcon I think 80's then they are talk to yield, X amount talk then 90 degrees +90 degrees, but I use them to make pully pullers or guide bolt with head cut off to line up and fit gearbox's ,engine etc ideal as hook's in pullers, all the best to yous and your loved ones
@pearldragonz Жыл бұрын
I experienced that exact issue, not being able to find new head bolts for my engine. This was around 1999ish. Going through an International Scout 304 engine. Two of the head bolts were stretched. Nobody had them. Talked to my brother, who was an engine builder by the way, and he had me use some grade 8 bolts that matched for length and thread. Then I machined some press on collars so the bolts would center correctly.
@lawrenceveinotte Жыл бұрын
I had head bolts from a 60's chevy 6 i used as a pin for the thumb on my backhoe, they would last for years, i was stunned.
@GMC4240 Жыл бұрын
I just run nasty bore taper in Canada like a mad man because machine shops think it’s acceptable to charge $600 alone for a bore, 350 for a hot tank wash, 200 for cam bearing install, 300 for press fit rod install/ resizing etc. Plus ordering off Summit, Jegs and Rock auto these days with shipping and the exchange rates makes it hard for a guy to work on his hot rod. Not that I’m on an extreme budget but I cannot justify and normalize spending nearly $2000 at the machine shop alone on every build…
@dhorn247 Жыл бұрын
I've rebuilt about a half dozen sbc engines and have reused the head bolts every time. I even reused some tty bolts on an ls cylinder head and never once caused a bit of trouble
@MrTheHillfolk Жыл бұрын
East Bongosqueegee? That's where the Mammyjackers come from!
@tjt4036 Жыл бұрын
Looking forward to tomorrow👍👍.
@randybarnes8454 Жыл бұрын
On my 1993 Cherokee the bolt on the oil filter adapter wasn't a torx, it is a 9/16's Allen or Hex fitting.
@gearheadgregwi Жыл бұрын
Totally agree, Tony. Non-car people think we just jump in. Good mechanics mentally rehearse a job before they ever touch a tool. Especially those jobs you've never done before. Being weekend mechanic, I wait 24 hours after a major repair before putting things back in service. Prevents the "Oh shit I forgot" moments.
@JrGoonior Жыл бұрын
I still haven't finished pulling the 360 out of my donor car and have multiple times mentally thought about how I'm going to tear it down, rebuild it and get in the other car.
@gearheadgregwi Жыл бұрын
@JrGoonior my wife thinks I'm crazy. I do marine engines. So I'm a special kind of boat-crazy. 😅😅😅
@thomasheer8252 ай бұрын
Tony often on those old head bolts were actually often grade 8. Many machine shops have test equipment to ascertain the hardness of materials, basically a an press with a calibrated pressure gauge and appropriate pressure point. We had to test some of our fasteners and such due to an failure of something that simple could cost half a million dollars if it failed. Believe it or not we found some NEW fasteners did not pass muster. We had our own test stand due to the situation. Also got to be careful as a fastener that is to hard will be brittle and fail also. On these No new factory bolts available this test machines may be your best bet.
@Grumpy-sy7wr Жыл бұрын
Thanks for doing this Tony. When you pulled the head and showed those blocked up water jackets, I was trying to get a better look at the block, because our Aussie Chrysler hemi 6 has the same setup, goes nowhere. This series I think is ideal for the many who just want to see an extra 100,000 miles out of their engine on a budget. There are those who just have to, without exception, replace or machine every conceivable part, this channel really isn't for you. 😛
@stevenkirk2563 Жыл бұрын
If a part has lived in an engine for 20 years and is in good condition it’s good to go for another 10 years as it’s proven its self. That’s my judgement call.
@mrkultra1655 Жыл бұрын
Thanks Tony
@KCRambles Жыл бұрын
Thanks for this very informative and thoughful series Tony. It's been a minute since I was elbow deep in a motor but hearing you work through the thought processes and considerations while tearing down this engine takes me back to learning these same things from my dad (certified mechanic), uncle, and brother-in-law back in the day. Makes me itch for a shop space. :) Keep On Keepin' On sir.
@thewholls7176 Жыл бұрын
When I’ve done DIY motors at home for daily drivers, I’ve always been sucked into the conundrum of the motors out…… the clearance is a little bit too much “so I might as well do it properly” Bore it out and put new Pistons then put new this and put new that…. all under the guise that you might as well do it now while the motor is out and you end up spending waaay more than you wanted to to start with so I don’t know what the answer is but you have to be careful to not replace stuff under the guise of reliability……
@DJForresta Жыл бұрын
Great info and attitude!
@raybrensike42 Жыл бұрын
I got to do a valve job in high school auto shop, but I don't remember getting all of this information. All I remember is the valves were worn on the seat area and took a bit of grinding, and that the shop teacher said the customer was happy with how it ran afterward.
@dodden1 Жыл бұрын
I could be wrong, but i always thought the newer head bolts are torque to yield because the designers want to minimize the cyclic loading on the bolt, which causes fatigue. The head bolt and cylinder head can be though of as two springs in parallel, so the softer spring would give more, less cyclic load, for a given clamp force. To do this , one uses a long bolt with minimum cross sectional area. The softer spring clamp force would also vary during with differential thermal expansion.
@rodrigograss3580 Жыл бұрын
You rationale about thermal expansion in correct for smaller diameter bolts and everything else. But I don't think that's why they're torque to yield. You could achieve the same effect in the elastic zone(i.e. rod bolts) I believe they're torque to yield because that's when you reach the maximum possible clamping force before it breaks.(look at a force/yield diagram, it goes up before failure) Therefore you need less bolts for a given surface clamping force in the head. And also, if they fail (break)heads gotta come off. And if a "normal" bolt fails(stretch) heads gotta come of as well because it will have burnt the gasket. Also in both situations the bolts (stretched or broken) will both have to be replaced either way. So technically better use of the material, less bolts with same clamping force. Rod bolts for example are torqued to a point at which the fatigue stress in only unidirectional instead of both ways. That gives it longer fatigue life (and has everything to do with your example with springs). It's pretty ingenious. I do believe it's talked about in Heywood, IC fundamentals. Great book.
@bassthunder819 Жыл бұрын
...TTY bolts..had a late 80's escort 1.9L ,replaced the head, reused the head bolts..using a flat washer torqued to spec.. ran like a charm..no issues..like Tony says that always doesn't work in every situation.
@chrislafever4350 Жыл бұрын
I like to plumb the PCV to the port on the back of the carburetor. If there's any blow-by ( even a little) it mixes with the main intake stream. I you plumb to a port on the back of the intake ( V8 ) it might pollute two or more intake runners.
@Z_732 Жыл бұрын
Good job UT. A touch of reality to help. For the naysayers and the new kids on the (engine) block.
@harleykdognova4226 Жыл бұрын
Like the build series u do .. I have a Jeep 4.0 so watching close just need transmission info too think my solenoids may b acting up
@gmanbelieves6513 Жыл бұрын
I love your videos, me also being a older time mechanic or more a classic car mechanic, mainly Chevrolet and Fords, but I find your insight into the small details is great, stuff they just don't teach todays mechanics, very informative, I so happen to be rebuilding or restoring my 2002 WJ Jeep Grand Cherokee, of course my 4.0L is running great but in this video I saw one of your engine blocks painted yellow, and I love that color and will go with my color scheme with my Jeep, oddly I didn't even think about that color until I watched your video. Anyway I do plan on rebuilding my 4.0L in the near future since trying to stick a V8 in WJ's is a completely different headache in itself unlike old classics that are no Brainers and not much trouble. Anyway keep up the great informative videos. 👍
@joe-hp4nk Жыл бұрын
I would clean all the valves, lap them, install the at the correct spring height, and check of leakage, Bob's your uncle.
@orig66Super Жыл бұрын
According to my factory shop manuals, on my 1998 Ford E250 Van with the 4.2 engine, there are 6 bolts that fasten the torque converter housing to the engine block and 3 bolts that fasten the torque converter housing to the oil pan. 5 out the 6 bolts have a torque range of 50-68 Nm and the 3 oil pan bolts have a torque range of 40-55 Nm. The sixth engine block bolt has a torque range of 40-55 Nm. Lucky for me I had my trusty Harbor Freight torque wrench at hand to get the job done! (Whups, don’t tell the customer that you fixed their vehicle using Harbor Freight tools)
@CarbonNeutral22 Жыл бұрын
I once helped put a whole V8 Buick together to find out the lifters wouldn't slide in from the top of the bore Out came the cam the crank and the cussing
@DrShankenstein Жыл бұрын
2 years ago I started to rebuild a Chevy 350, as I was tearing the motor down. I threw away the cam and the lifters. Then as I started to do more research, i found what you were talking about with the problem with Cam and lifters. I haven't touched the engine since because I'm scared to death. I'm going to get a shit cam or lifters. I wish I didn't throw those Cam and lifters away because there was nothing wrong with them.
@benjamintresham9649 Жыл бұрын
Alloy headed engine’s replace the head bolts due to the expansion growth of the alloy to the cast iron blocks. They have to act like springs (grow) through cycles
@eighty6gt Жыл бұрын
Many bolts even the old ones act as a "spring," that is how many bolted connections are designed. There has to be pretension. Also these newer fasteners are torque to yield which ensure maximum reliable clamping taking into account block and head material and also thread condition, friction under the fastener head during installation.
@CanadaBud23 Жыл бұрын
The factory head bolts I never really trusted so I'd replace after then a second use. The ARP head studs though I've used over and over. I think I'm on my 8th use on my boosted stroker and there are no signs of distortion on them, yet at least anyway. That front 'wet' bolt it is possible aftermarket bolts have a different threat depth. Best to check how far it goes in to thread seal appropriately, obviously lol. Also it is possible that an aftermarket bolt and and aftermarket waterpump CAN interfere with each other on assembly. You may end up shredding the end of a new or old pump, just to keep in mind. Also if you decide to clean it internally there are drainage holes near the lifter cavities and they can actually block right up and even look like normal but there should be holes there for drainage. Also at the back of the block sediment likes to build up inside the water jacket. Grab a good pokey jabby to dig out the cruft. I attached a tube to a vacuum to suck the junk out from back there through the ports at the back of the deck as I'm breaking it all up. You could also bump the compression a bit and not worry about it fuels today are way better, it is an anvil with cylinders carved out of it after all.
@ClaremontClassicGarage Жыл бұрын
Th whole torque to yield business started with aluminum heads. And they figured if they sold a set of bolts with every head gasket that would be really good. I've been racing Neons for years and if I used new bolts every time I had a head off I'd be broke.
@larryippert8143 Жыл бұрын
I use diesel oils in flat tappet engine,those lifters are small block 318,360 dodge
@richsmith6952 Жыл бұрын
This is a great series for me as I will be doing a Jeep 4.0 myself. I really appreciate you addressing the comments from viewers who offer Jeep 4.0 tips as well. We are all learning together and that makes this fun. I can see you are enjoying this as well. Thank you!
@alexlandsberger1423 Жыл бұрын
Tony in the past you have literally told us about the nut trick, would have been one of the storage unit videos I think it was possibly around the time when you did the roller 360 for swinger.
@yodawunn6700 Жыл бұрын
Some of the 4.0's are notorious for cracking the head. Around 2000 models, casting 0331.
@rctopfueler2841 Жыл бұрын
every motor i cored at the yard i had coffee cans id save all the bolts ,never had any issues reusing any
@gearheadgregwi Жыл бұрын
Torque to yield bolts. Joys of aluminum blocks.
@tarstarkusz Жыл бұрын
UT, wouldn't it be better to just buy a used head that isn't warped and has no bad seats or guides?
@yurimodin7333 Жыл бұрын
my guess on the older headbolts is that those engines were designed for racing high/perf and then put on the street in production form. Also almost all the engines were thick deck iron heads & iron blocks. Once we got to thin deck aluminum heads on iron blocks (looking at you POS 3.8 Ford) head bolts became more of a big deal and tourque to yield is probobly better in an assembly line format. All that said newer engines like the 3.8 ford 3800 gm etc are designed for production first and like almost everything coming from Detroit all they care about is how it goes together the first time and we are on our own from there.
@kentarnaldo62827 ай бұрын
Thanks!
@UncleTonysGarage5 ай бұрын
Thank you!
@georgebonney90 Жыл бұрын
Thank you Sir👍
@stevoschannel4127 Жыл бұрын
Were is pegs leg?
@phillippearce9680 Жыл бұрын
Great info!👍
@MCarrick-ss7xc Жыл бұрын
I witnessed same thing with my dad. Now I can't get my kids interested. Oh well. Great show on you tube.
@waldonherdman1447 Жыл бұрын
Great content!
@garypapesh1345 Жыл бұрын
Maybe install the head, and coat the bolt with sealer from inside the water pump cavity. Might do a better job of sealing the bolt. My 2 cents.
@edpetrikk2027 Жыл бұрын
Yo Tony ..Is your shop located in the infield where the Daytona 500 is run ?
@vi67 Жыл бұрын
UT please proceed with the series as "your first engine job". Quick question, How could you even consider doing this for a customer since this is your first engine job?
@leebrand21725 ай бұрын
Agree 100% 🙂
@ohnoitisnt Жыл бұрын
problem: intake gasket leak solution: replace 1 hour, few bucks car guy solution: 'well theres no point not upgrading the injectors while im in there, which means i need that fuel pump. But that means removing the tank.... ....ecu remap.... .decat..... = off the road 3 year project and 5k in parts
@mariodouehi1284 Жыл бұрын
some people even use GM sealer in australia ive used it hundreds of times on holden engines witch is GM
@neco1562 Жыл бұрын
Bravo
@Ripsaw17 Жыл бұрын
That's why it's so important to change your coolant every 3 years and use proper coolant and not water you won't get all that nasty buildup on any bolts that actually sit in a water jacket
@geraldwegener8376 Жыл бұрын
How about a video on piston skirt knurling.
@hunnybunnysheavymetalmusic6542 Жыл бұрын
I have knowingly drilled out head gasket holes on engines where there were only sand casting clean outs [since one was there on the block that corresponded with it] and in retrospect, I wonder if it might not potentially cause problems with the cooling because some engines are coolant ported in such a way as to ensure all of the coolant flows all the way to the back, so the back does not end up overheating... In the future though, I will be certain to be much more wise and careful before drilling through my head gaskets.
@AmalgamationofMan Жыл бұрын
If the headbolts are affordable and available they should be replaced everytime in my opinion. I can tell you from experience even a set of ARP's is far cheaper than the cost of your labor to repair the headgasket and buy new bolts on the 2nd go round. With time being worth more than it ever has been . I suggest do it right or do it twice at twice the cost or more. I understand there can be extenuating circumstances , at the end of the day that's a you problem for you to decide. Happy hotrodding ladies and gentlemen 🤙
@brycemadden8323 Жыл бұрын
See if can find a 99 and up intake for cheap when you put it back together
@Jake6837 Жыл бұрын
Those are great motors.
@garydesgres1382 Жыл бұрын
East bongo, squeegee produces the finest licorice.
@EffequalsMA Жыл бұрын
Hehe, I recycled used TW cylinder heads and arp head studs many times, even over different engines, Absolutely worth the money to have hard studs instead of the stupid tty stock head bolts (88 5,0 HO)..... I foind 90s Comp roller rockers that were used as well. They built shit HD back then.
@AtZero138 Жыл бұрын
Keep at it BOSS... Thanks for your efforts.. UTG ... @∅
@zakuraayame5091 Жыл бұрын
my wife makes judgement calls all the time, luckily I've not been too old and worn out yet to be thrown out and replaced with a new one yet :p
@mikestaihr5183 Жыл бұрын
What about if one seat in the head has been cut deeper than the some of the other seats. Like you said it's not a race engine and tolerances are looser. Granted a major difference would be reason for concern.
@MoparMan-ff8fb Жыл бұрын
could you use a die to check the threads on the head bolts to see if they're warped ect? if the teeth start taking off material then they're bad ? when it comes to those bolts exposed to coolant I run thread sealer inside the threaded hole all the way and add sealer to the threads so when it's tightened up sealant will still be coated on the bolt threads and if not I rub thread sealant on the threads that are exposed . I use that small gray tube of sealant by permatex that is specifically for coolant
@pghgeo816 Жыл бұрын
Is there still such a thing as shimming old valve springs?