Your questions answer on exposure, raw vs jpeg, lenses and more

Q&A number 3 answering your photography and camera gear questions in more detail
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[@IanKnight40]

Hi Martin what a great find your channel is. I loved your answer to the jpeg or raw question. I have always buy the camera for how the jpegs look. I do shoot raw as backup but totally agree with you about going for the jpeg if it has given you the look you want. Cheers Ian. Leicester. UK.

[@michazapart7646]

Regarding the ND filters: when I want to shoot outdoors, in sunny conditions, with my TTArtisan 35mm f/0.95 lens at f/0.95 and my Fujifilm X-E1, that has 1/4000 fastest shutter speed with no electronic shutter, then... Yeah, there's that - no ND filter, no picture! ;P TBH Grade 8 ND filter sits constantly on that lens.

[@cliffterpher]

Brilliant Martin. So matter of fact Had to chuckle how you responded to the q re 5D vs D800 for portraits. The portrait master, indeed.

[@photom3]

Would you use the EFS 10-18mm for landscape on a 1.6 crop sensor.

[@MartinCastein]

Yes I’ve used it before it’s a good lens not outstanding but it’s good

[@jameshogg601]

I would take a look at the sigma 10-20 f3.5 I had a great copy of this lens for my canon 7d years ago. Super sharp images.

[@vintagevantics]

That withering look!! (Tripod Q)

[@MartinCastein]

🤣

[@helstor]

Thanks for the video. I've had two EF 17-40mm lenses and I now have the EF 16-35mm f/4 and I agree that there is not a big difference in IQ between the two. In the corners however the 16-35mm is much better (at least my copy :-) .

[@MartinCastein]

Yeah the corners are a fair bit better but ive not ever cared much about corners personally.

[@paulyiustravelogue]

I used the 17-40 f/4 for no less than 5 years before I switched to my current 16-35 f/2.8. The image quality on the latter is noticeably better with more clarity. In fact, I just think the 16-35 is more versatile.

[@MartinCastein]

I felt that by f8 they werent so far apart but depends what you are photographing too i think and copy variation, definitely the 16-35 lenses are a step up!

[@KarySchump]

These are great and informative. I think my favorite, though, was your reaction to the question about why a tripod plate is on the bottom of your camera! 😂

[@MartinCastein]

hahah yes that did make we worry a bit that one!

[@jayse1195]

Really loving these Q&A vids, great knowledge

[@hywel3143]

Hi Martin, thanks for this interesting Q&A. I am just getting into the area of post processing, and must admit that I'm a bit confused about this in terms of workflow and software choices working on an iMac, especially the workflow differences between RAW and JPEG. I was a keen amateur film photographer in the 1970s-1990s, but never really got into digital photography until now, having retired and cobbled together a second hand system based around my 6D. My starting point is that I want to keep things simple, to spend more time out taking photos and less time on the computer, so in principle I prefer JPEG. Budget constraints mean that I'm not that keen on monthly subscription models, and would prefer to use either/or the free Canon Digital Photo Professional 4 or Apple Photos. My understanding (please correct as appropriate) is that: * For JPEG, the 6D corrects for peripheral illumination and chromatic aberration in camera, but not lens distortion. I am unsure how/if correction data is stored in the RAW file out of the camera. * the Canon DPP software is for RAW or JPEG files, and it does use its lens correction database to deal with distortion, peripheral illumination and chromatic aberration for the Canon lens range. It also has a useful range of post processing tools. * Apple Photos enables post processing of both JPEG files and RAW files, again with a useful range of processing tools. However, it seems unclear whether it uses the Canon lens correction data for either file type. Any advice gratefully received - maybe there is material here for an explanatory video? Thanks for developing all the quality content on this channel - much appreciated!

[@MartinCastein]

my knowledge is pretty much limited to capture one, lightroom and photoshop but you should look up Raw Therapee, free software that does similar stuff. Then look up tutorials on youtube for it.

[@kevrosas1]

Wish I was in on this Q&A! My question is which colour profile on Lightroom do you prefer to edit from, using RAW files from the 5D 1? I’ve found Adobe Colour to be very nice however I might be missing a trick not using Neutral or Faithful etc. I’d prefer to keep skin tones and general colours looking great out the camera, so I don’t touch the sliders due to my colour deficiency. It can make things look horrid without me ever knowing it.

[@MartinCastein]

Either adobe Colour which i use mostly or neutral for me! Use whichever looks best for your photo. Trust your instincts, you will be fine🙂

[@kevrosas1]

@@MartinCasteinhanks Martin. I’ve always been stunned by the colours to my eyes but recently found out it automatically applies Adobe Colour. Took mine and the 50 1.8 stm on a recent London trip and so stunned by the output. I live in North Devon so it’s usually green and brown (boring to me) photos! Thanks again.

[@chrissmith7069]

Hey Martin, Why do you have a tripod mounting plate on the bottom of your camera? 🤔😜

[@MartinCastein]

🤣

[@lamwp8634]

I have learned one thing from the video at 3:55, that is, holding the camera away from you looking at the LCD instead of the EVF. At the same time you are able to look at the wider surroundings of the subject beyond the EVF framing. Doing this way, you may anticipate things going to happen around the subject and you won't miss the opportunity.

[@blue7724]

Great video, Martin. Really value your opinions when it comes to photography. I have another gear related question. Ive had my 5d classic + 50 1.8 for a while and have been thinking about adding another lens to the kit. I see used 50 1.4's and 80 1.8's at around the same price. Which out of the two would you recommend?

[@MartinCastein]

dont get the 50 1.4, ive had 3 copes of it and dont rate it at all, get an 85 1.8 or something like that.

[@nicktheobald1694]

I lusted after the 50 1.4 for 3 years, eventually bought a (apparently!) excellent condition secondhand one. While it looked great and felt good to hold, the build quality is almost abysmal and they are very fragile. It suffered from the loose focus band issue (both rotationally and wobbled forwards and backwards - apparently they are all a bit like that!). Bearing in mind how much I paid for it (£195), I was extremely disappointed. It is a soft lens (part of its charm I guess), but the 50 1.8 STM is sharper and a bargain new - its also much better built IMO! The 1.4 didn't seem to focus very well on a 70D, 7D or 6D either. The 85 1.8 is a great lens for the money. A different focal length is probably of more practical use than a slightly bigger f-stop too...

[@MartinCastein]

yeah this is basically my experience with them too, the focus motor is very fragile as well, while its soft its not pretty soft its just bad soft.

[@mberggren9768]

I love these Q&A videos. So much more interesting to hear you talk about real world cameras instead of someone quoting the marketing folder of some new wonder camera. l really wish you could do a comparison between the 5D Mk.I and the 1Ds Mk.II. I know that most people find the “1” bodies to heavy and clumsy, but they do have great image quality, and the autofocus is better.

[@MartinCastein]

The 1d size bodies are nicer to use i think too, i used to have a D3S as well and loved that.

[@keithbuck8252]

Love this channel somuch Martin it really is the best out there and I've seen a lot trust me

[@MartinCastein]

Thanks again Keith

[@chrissmith7069]

Hey Martin, here's a question for you....... Canon RP or 6D for landscapes, not taking into account the twidly rear screen but the files from the sensor? 😁😁

[@MartinCastein]

6d mark i buddy, the sensor is better. The rp does though add the tilt screen and focus stacking in camera plus bulb exposures beyond 30 seconds but if its just down to sensors then the 6d is better for sure.

[@chrissmith7069]

@@MartinCastein thx for responding, interesting answer! Hope your well m8 👍

[@anjasamann150]

Martin, thanks for all your videos. I have learnt a lot from them, some videos of yours I have watched twice. I am still sticking to my 5d classic. I have a 85, 1.8 I really like for portraits. I would like to get either the 135, 2.0 or the 70-200, 4.0 IS for portraits. Which lens would you buy in my case? I want to do shoots down on the beach etc.

[@MartinCastein]

Hi Anja, id question what you want to gain on a beach shoot from either of those lenses that you cant get on an 85mm. If it were me and you wanted to add either of those it would be the 135mm the 70-200 at f4 will be a very different look from the 85mm.

[@anjasamann150]

@Martin Castein thanks for your response. I just wanted some extra reach and the compressed look. In one of your videos you stated that the 135, 2.0 was a forgotten lens, if I recall it correctly. What is your take on the lens? Would you still the 85mm focal length and zoom with your feet in an outdoors shooting? Wouldn't the 135mm be nice at 2.0 with a completely blurred background. Would the 5d classic focus correctly with such a shallow depth of field?

[@MartinCastein]

@@anjasamann150 The 135mm is, in my opinion, one of canons best ever lenses, it will give you the compression you want and its beautiful. I have never had any issue with the 135 focussing, it focuses quickly and accurately, thats been my experience it might be different for you though. If you want more compression and a nice bokeh then dont hesitate just buy it. Try and keep your shutter speed at 1/250 or above as it has no stabilization and ideally if you have enough light 1/400 is ideal.

[@baxtermarrison5361]

Just on your final point on colour space, my understanding is that as long as the camera, computer and screen are all set to the same colour space then it does not matter which it is, problems only occur if there is a miss match between the three.

[@MartinCastein]

The in camera settings only affect jpeg though so wont affect your raw files.🙂

[@baxtermarrison5361]

@@MartinCastein Absolutely, but you would be surprised how many folk a, don't understand colour space, b, bother to check the image chain, camera, computer , screen etc. and then can't figure out why the back of the camera image (JPEG) does not match the thumbnail in Adobe. Whilst I always shoot Raw, I also save a JPEG file, save both to both cards. Firstly, the JPEG can prove a handy benchmark when editing the Raw (I try to get it as close to the final image as I can in camera) and secondly, having two different file types on each card increases the chance of recovering data from a card should it fail. Not that I'm paranoid when it comes to digital redundancy when shooting on set.