Your refrigerator is keeping a secret, and I will expose it.

[@jefferyb304]

I have a 33-year-old fridge that belonged to my grandmother Never even had a drop of oil on that fan. Spin down time was super long when I looked a few years ago. It has a nice AC motor. In fact, the fridge has only had very minor issues 1 a wiring harness one time. 2 a blocked drain. Dad fixed the harness. I cleaned the drain a few years ago.

[@toddt6730]

@@jefferyb304 wow, definitely won't get that kind of time on appliances today

[@coolbluelights]

Before I went looking for a new fridge I researched the parts lists and specs for them because I did NOT want one with this crappy excuse for a condenser fan in it. I found a GE fridge that uses a regular open frame shaded pole motor which is not like the old sealed ones but better than that plastic crap. AND I paid less for it. LG should stick to making TVs and phones

[@happygarage6310]

I did a fair bit of research when I bought the darn thing, not enough, I guess. It replaced a Frigidaire, which had terrible availability for the water filter. I guess we'll learn if the fan mod is viable. If it works for another 3-5 years, I'll hate it less.

[@seriousmechanicing]

Style points if you stick an RGB fan down there.

[@happygarage6310]

That's what I bought. I pick them up in the morning. 2 fans cost a staggering $49.

[@oobihdahboobeeboppah]

There's more than just positive and negative on those wires. You're assuming a computer fan will replace it but a closer look of the schematic (block diagram really) these fans may be PWM or pulse width modulated motors (used in CNC applications) which are not wired anything like a typical fan. Do more research before you buy anything; there's got to be something out there which will get you to the correct solution. Honestly, I don't know why they'd use PWM motors because they're quite a bit more expensive than a basic DC fan, but then this just might explain why they're asking $130 for the things.

[@happygarage6310]

You are correct. The original fan is using a different pwm than a 4 wire computer case fan, evidenced by the fact that the computer fan doesn't actually come to a complete stop, the rpms slow to maybe 300rpm. The rpm does increase prior to and during compressor operation. An oscilloscope and perhaps additional electronics would be needed to match oem operation. The module in the fridge is satisfied with the rpm signal from the computer fan. For a quick and dirty fix, a computer case fan works, even if for just a bit.

[@toddt6730]

I have an LG refrigerator that is 3 years old, did not read about the reviews until after I got the machine, waiting to see if in a couple of years my compressor or something fails because supposedly that's when it happens in 5 to 7 years

[@happygarage6310]

Last year was the first time that the fan stopped. There was an error message, and the side of the fridge was hot. I removed the cover seen in the video and pointed a box fan in there that bought me time to figure out what I needed. I wish I had thought of buying a computer fan then. Instead, I paid $90 for the wrong fan because why would LG make a simple repair easy

[@toddt6730]

@@happygarage6310 I have an LG stove that's 4 month old and repaired twice under warranty for the exact same issue twice

[@happygarage6310]

@toddt6730 the little convection fan? I have a GE stove, and the little hot burner lamp won't turn off, but the kids are grown enough and every else work, I'm just gonna let that ride and replace it when it actually breaks.

[@toddt6730]

@@happygarage6310 the problem with mine is the right front burner get stuck on after about 10:11 minutes of cooking all of a sudden it keeps staying on and never shuts off you could turn it down to number four setting and it will stay on continuously and all of a sudden you're burning your food so they replaced the thermostat and the new one lasted about three and a half weeks and did the exact same thing they came out 2 weeks ago and replaced it again, and so far it's working I'll keep updated if it keeps on working if I make it past August maybe it'll be okay but I find it strange that two times a bad part very strange

[@MrScottie68]

Your first mistake was buying an LG appliance, they are almost as bad as Samsung. Stick to old standby names like GE or Whirlpool.

[@fvrrljr]

*yes sir, spend the money on tools and DIY. have multimeters, now i have to buy another that has MICROFARADS feature*

[@happygarage6310]

A reliable DMM is a must for a DIYer. Even a basic meter can go a long way once a person learns how to use it.

[@hughbrackett343]

I've managed to get by 50-odd years without a capacitance meter. This is mainly because HVAC caps tend to obviously fail (open circuit or bulged case). In the case of old electronics, I've just shotgunned all of the electrolytics, which is a good idea anyway. This is not to say I wouldn't _like_ to have that function.

[@Sporipherous]

Truly sucks, I have a couple of high end Fluke's dating back 40 years but neither will check capacitance.

[@oldskipper1394]

If you're willing to spend the money, I recommend the Fieldpiece SC440. It's pretty much designed for HVAC/R.