RIP Philips Hue & Govee

This $5 dollar board solves LED Lighting. Head to squarespace.com/zacbuilds to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code zacbuilds
Find out more about WLED here: kno.wled.ge/
Join me on Patreon: / zacbuilds
Patrons get ad-free early access to all of my videos + More
Links to all of the tools from this video (All of the below are affiliate links)
EPS32 - amzn.to/3nFBBVa
LED Strip Lights - amzn.to/3m5fwi5
5V 20A Power Supply - amzn.to/3ZCK4Fz
Dupont Crimper Kit - amzn.to/40SB8gm
Philips Hue Playbar - amzn.to/3nDzCAz
Philips Hue Stripl Light - amzn.to/40vNueL
Craftsman Ratcheting Screw Driver - amzn.to/3M24x3I
All of the Music and SFX I use comes from: www.epidemicsound.com/referra...
Edited by Brycen Roy (IG: / brycenroy )
All My Filming Gear:
kit.co/ZacBuilds
Check me out on Instagram - @ZacBuilds
/ zacbuilds
Use code ZACBUILDS10 at www.badnorthamerica.com​ for 10% off my favorite work gear
Check out my website for all past projects:
www.zacbuilds.com​

[@TheCreat]

What actually amazed me was that you got the ESP32 for 5$, but you paid 8$ for a power cable for some reason. That aside, great introduction

[@erkantwp]

Came here to say this

[@Terandium]

The esp32 is made on massive scale, the power cable is made on smaller scale and prob bought locally. But still insane difference haha

[@TheCreat]

@@Terandium if you think ESP32 are made in a larger scale than generic mains power cables, you're off by one or multiple orders of magnitude and in the wrong direction. Cakes are used by basically every appliance, these esp32 boards are a comparable specialty items for tinkerer's and electronic hobbyists. And by "probably bought locally" you mean Amazon, right? Cause that's where he said he got it. They should costs maybe a dollar (and only better they contain copper), rest is markup for the convenience of Amazon.

[@Terandium]

@@TheCreat ah my bad I didn't know they were bought of of Amazon's, I figured he got it at a local hardware store. Which just has a lot higher cost of operations.

[@HCG]

And the LED strip is $50 and the power supply is $18. What’s your point?

[@carstenlechte]

Regarding flickering: The ESP does not drive the LEDs directly. It tells each pixel, via the data line, what RGBW values it should have. The pixel does the PWM in its hardware. There is no access to that. The good news is that such PWM frequencies easily are in the kHz range. I have several such strips from the same manufacturer as you and they work great with WLED.

[@mytuberforyou]

Delay starts to get noticeable over 1600 pixels on the strip I use.

[@STILLWILLPHOTO]

You seem very knowledgeable in this field. Any experience with Li-fi applications? Data transfer through high speed LED strobing?

[@RandomUser2401]

yeah this video contains some shokcing technical inaccuracies and a total lackluster of saftey advices

[@threepe0]

“There is no access to that….” Except for the boards where there is. Boards with CLED allow you to adjust pwm frequency easily

[@carstenlechte]

@@threepe0 Does that work with the individually addressable pixels like the WS2813, SK6812 strips?

[@bentheremedia3011]

My favorite thing about channels like yours is that you bring so much enthusiasm to something that some might deem simple. I’m sure this is well documented somewhere but I just love learning how to do things like this from people like you. And to take it a step further, the KZbin community surrounding channels like yours never disappoints. You can always find extra nuggets of quality information in the comments. I love it!

[@kevinkidderphotographer]

Not only do I appreciate the introduction to using an esp32, but also going through the build process. Well done!

[@scottyanke655]

Been using WLED for years, and love it. Seasonally for xmas lighting, and year round for controlling lighting for my deck, sidewalk and steps (under railing). For the latter I use 12v white leds and WLED to control the brightness with a mosfet (using pwm, easy to setup and only one part needed). Never had any flickering problem with any of my lights. Control the on/off using the time built in to WLED.

[@andremartinez418]

not even a minute in and the editing on the light is such a nice touch

[@ZacBuilds]

Haha thanks man. I spent more time than I care to admit trying to get that to work seamlessly 😂

[@Inkaststudios]

We’ve all been there my man

[@VoeltnerWoodworking]

Another great video, dude! You always break things down into consumable bite-size pieces at a great pace.

[@gordon861]

I know this is an older video, but if you want a less messy solution there are small boxes that contain the controller board and just have a simple power in and out connections without worrying about having to bypass the controller. There is an Anthom controller that will pass through 16 Amps of 5-24V out of the box with WLED pre-installed. The controllers are more expensive but the setup is much tidier, there is also a newer manufacturer that has just turned up with similar $10 boxes that only do 10 Amps. Also, if you are worried about consistent colour output over a longer line of LEDs, 12V is better as you have less issues with voltage drop.

[@kellyhofer]

The flicker you get in led's is not from AC power. That would fry them. It comes from the PWM Pulse width modulation of the led's being dimmed. More specifically, the frequency of the PWM. To make it look like they don't flicker, I use 10,000 hz pwm signal.

[@MaximilianBecker87]

And he seemed so confident about his theory 😂

[@RandomUser2401]

@@MaximilianBecker87 yes, this was a _shockingly_ horribly wrong explanation

[@xdragon2k]

He did mention about the PWM later on which explains why it was still flickering while using DC power. I don't know why he thought it was caused by AC power to begin with.

[@nomecognome5050]

some cheap led lights run directly on AC power, it's common for led light bulbs. No that wouldn't fry them, they are specifically made to be used like that. Of course if you run your 5V DC leds on AC 240V you fry them, he didn't say to do that...

[@blackezerro]

Not sure but I think LEDs NEVER run on AC. Pretty sure

[@ThePurplePupUwU]

Just a quick think to note, for your cable coming from mains voltage, there's a couple safety things regarding it you should keep in mind, cut the ground line a little longer than the others, so that if for whatever reason they came loose and undone, the unit is still grounded, also when using those screw terminals, I'd use solid core wire, and if you have stranded like that was in your power cable, I'd crimp a fork/U connector on the end and use that, just some things to note going forward, great video though, and I think I'll probably implement this system in my own house.

[@justinfelix6690]

Good to tell but putting an esp32 directly to main without resistor or transistor is just not a good idea for the long run. Even in the table from wled it shows a resistor. Also the cables are to thin for 100w

[@RandornCanis]

@@justinfelix6690 I believe you're confusing many different concepts. The ESP32 is not connected to mains. Its development board is connected to the switch mode power supply. This is correct. The development board has an on-board 3.3V linear regulator. You might put a fuse between, but not a resistor, and transistor makes no sense. You would use a transistor or resistor after the ESP32 for driving analog LEDs, and each for different reasons. Transistors isolate and control higher voltage LEDs - usually 12V strings. Resistors limit current of individual LEDs, but the ESP32 already has internal 12mA current limiting resistors inside its GPIOs. Neither apply to the digital LEDs in this video. Digital LEDs don't need transistors or resistors anywhere. You can use a transistor to shift levels between ESP32 and *6812, but 3.3V is well enough above the digital high specified by the LEDs. You can use a typically 100R resistor in the data line for impedance matching, but unless you're on the bleeding edge of transmission line speeds to an LED. Remember, conductors are rated for current, and insulators for voltage. His cable can handle 300V, but definitely not 18A. Does that mean use a heavier gauge? Absolutely not! The strip is a wire, too, and it's not rated for 18A, either. You need to run another wire from power supply to the far end of the strip.

[@jackygrush]

Totally agree he should use a fork terminal or similar - the wires will just fatigue or corrode and break off after a while otherwise

[@rossclutterbuck1060]

@@jackygrush he literally says "this is temporary because I'm moving house soon, don't do this" in the video. Do you people even pay attention?

[@wj625]

Having done this for Christmas lights I have to say this is one of the best any easiest videos to follow if you want to do your own light setup! Thanks!

[@joshmaday1462]

“Hue is closed-source” I mean, technically yes… but they also have an open API if you’re using their bridge, and they have adopted the Zigbee standard really well, so they play nice with basically any third party Zigbee controller, allowing you to completely ditch their backend and provide your own. While it’s not technically open source, I really don’t consider that “the antithesis of the DIY movement”

[@timovanpraagh]

You could look into the esp32 s3. Usually same prices but has native usb protocol and usb c ports!

[@stefanzlatanovic7521]

Damn, you always give me ideas and I want to spend more money on hobbies. This was such an awesome video and project! Wil share it with my friends cause I know some of them will probably find this useful! Have a great weekend!

[@marsgizmo]

great project and video! 👏😎

[@ZacBuilds]

Thank you 😀

[@TheNebojsa47]

Can't wait for new place tour and maaaaany more future home projects!

[@ZacBuilds]

So many new projects to be done here! I'm a bit overwhelmed but very excited

[@carrioncrow8191]

What an awesome project. Actually something I’d feel comfortable cobbling it together

[@malepauling7431]

Guys be carefull with the 110V side of the circuit. It definitely can cause serious harm (or kill you) if you touch these screws while the plug is in the wall...

[@qwarlockz8017]

GREAT video! I actually love WLED and the ESP32 board. Your circuit is wonderful. I have to admit that I just did direct. I just have a cheap DC power supply connected to the ESP and also to the light strips. They work like a champ. You mentioned that I can control through PHilips Hue?!?!?! Had no idea! I control through Home Assistant. I am totally going to get it going through PH so I can control through Alexa! Thanks for the great vid! Will look forward to more!

[@mcg9573]

I did this a few years back with an Ikea Vidja lamp. It's got 3 individual white shades on it as a 4 ft" cylinder. I put some PVC in between each section and ran 3 strips of 5m around them, inducting it additionally. These effects look great when they're wrapped around an object instead of a straight\curvy line.

[@rudya.hernandez7238]

I've used the esp32 on the inside of my pc case for years, including serving a local site to change the lighting to color/preconfigured modes. Thanks for sharing this.

[@kylerjohnson988]

Did you flash the esp32 with WLED firmware or did you build your own custom local site?

[@baileythompson3680]

Nice video! I really appreciate how you explain the process.

[@sameerakhtari9962]

I was waiting for this video, thanks for making it

[@sameerakhtari9962]

because I heard you saying for making this video in your last video

[@ZacBuilds]

My pleasure Sameer! I hope you found it useful

[@BigBenAdv]

For the semi-open frame power supply, you might be able to actually peel off the sticker indicating the need to change the voltage and stick a test pen in to flip the switch without dismantling the power supply unit. Unless this was a true crapshoot unit that doesn't have the service port under the sticker.

[@Gk2003m]

2:14: you’ve provided all the reasons I went with Hue. I’m not typically a “big name” purchaser if there’s a better alternative, but a few years ago they were the best game in town. And while closed source, Hue integrates well with other systems in my home.

[@mcg9573]

I spent hunders on hue. Now I'm just using their 4 button remote\wallplate and the motion sensor. The hue lights are boxed, lightbulbs\strips\hue plays, all replaced with cheaper bulbs and individually addressable led strips unfortunately.

[@mobilefiscus]

@@mcg9573 Why’s that?

[@RealLordy]

At 11:00 there's an important part of information for those building this in countries where electricity costs half a leg such as in Belgium: powerconsumtion for 5m of LED is 90 Watts. Philips LED strip of 2m consumes about 20 Watts at full brightness, so 50 Watts for 5m. That is about half of it. Since those LED strips are used at places where they are on a lot, the difference in price can be futile after one of two years. I do really like ESP and ESP Home (using it for tons of different things) but when it comes to lighting, when putting all info together when used in countries where energy is expensive, it is difficult to beat the big brands such as Philips Hue. It is expensive at time of buying, but when looking at long term use, it is reliable, easy to use and cheaper BUT: much appriciated video (subbed) as it is a clear guideline on how to build this yourself at a very small cost. I always like channels where they give a lot of info and actually show how to build things. Hats off! One thing I am curious about: what about Hue dynamic scenes? Is it also supported

[@craighhg]

This is so cool!! Way to go man on this one.

[@the_joernal]

Great video Zac, always learning from you man. Got me a bit nervous when you where slicing the cable with the knife.

[@roysigurdkarlsbakk3842]

You should consider using WS2815-based led strips or similar for 12V for the LEDs to avoid such high current and then a step-down-thingie, like those lm2596-based ones sold for $.5 on ali, for the microcontroller power. The 5-3.3V converter on the esp32 is linear, so it just burns the excess power, but if you give it 3.3V directly from the PSU, it won't. Also, those cables you used there, are quite unsufficient to allow for 18A - they'll catch fire.

[@RandomUser2401]

as an electrical engineer, almost everything here screams Horror.

[@roysigurdkarlsbakk3842]

@@RandomUser2401 what - my suggestions or the original video?

[@RandomUser2401]

@@roysigurdkarlsbakk3842 the original video. the title overpromised so much. when he claimed the flickering comes from AC mains I was screaming at the screen.

[@roysigurdkarlsbakk3842]

@@RandomUser2401 good scream. but still, 18 amps through those wires, they would look like lightbulb filaments

[@arnovanwingerde8589]

@@roysigurdkarlsbakk3842 ... so you get even more light out of it! If only for a little while...

[@StuTubed]

Might be worth a mention to those running longer wires from the controller board to the first LED on the strip that you will likely run into weird glitches or the lights not running at all. This is because the ESP32 uses 3.3V logic, whereas most LED strips expect 5V from the data line. This is normally not an issue for really short runs like you demonstrated, but for longer wires the voltage drop is too much so you get unexpected behaviour. The wiring diagram you showed mentions this, but a logic level shifter takes the 3.3V signals and converts them to 5V for you.

[@keukenrol]

Level shifter SN74HCT245N or a sacrificial pixel with a voltage divider is a solution :)

[@peterjackson1426]

Injecting voltage every 40 leds should stop this

[@StuTubed]

@@peterjackson1426 It's not power issue, it's a logic issue. The data line from the controller needs to be close to 5V, so a logic level shifter between the microcontroller and the first LED in the chain is all you need.

[@M0nteytime]

@@StuTubed Quick follow up question. I want to use it with 25 meters. Would that also work here? Or can I use this setup even with multiple LED strips in my room? I intend to do a ceiling surrounding LED in our living room.

[@StuTubed]

@@M0nteytime You should only need to worry about signal to the first LED in the chain, each pixel repeats the signal to the next one. If you have a long stretch of wire between two strips in series, it should be fine because the last pixel on the first strip should be sending 5V to the first pixel of the next. You will need to consider power injection to the LEDs themselves though if the strips are long enough.

[@remiqaine]

I use WLED on these NODE MCU's 😁😁 Ended up using several to run main lights in my work studio, so I can control them better. I picked up a few meanwell PSU's to inject power downstream to balance output.

[@bicunisa]

Thanks for the connection explanation 👍

[@AdamWrightthegeek]

Very informative, I learned a bunch

[@luscernic5093]

The capacitors in that power supply are huge. You should've added a warning to be incredibly careful opening the thing up, people have died trying to service power supplies without experience.

[@knoopx]

was about to say the same, people pay close attention touching things with big capacitors around!

[@Jibberish81]

Although I agree is sentiment, there is almost certainly a bleed resistor for the cap circuit that should dissipate any charge within roughly a minute after powering off. To be safe, just wait 5-10 minutes and you should be fine.

[@neorock6135]

Came to say the same. He didnt even need to open it, the majority of power supplies' switch to change voltage can accessed fairly easily. And even if that wasn't the case, he couldve easily used a plastic or other non-metal stick type object to reach the switch

[@johnadams1976]

Integrate your wled lights into hinge assistant and your options are honestly limitless!!!! I have a long curved plastered in led strip down my corridor... If someone locks the bathroom door, the section of LEDs outside the door glows red!!!!

[@theprimativ01]

You should have a power supply of at least 22.5A output We build LED signage and an LED power supply is deemed to be overloaded if it exceeds 80% of full load current and 18A is 90% Especially an Ali Express power supply

[@kataraluna8417]

Nice video, cool led controller software. Thanks for showing it to us!

[@ZacBuilds]

My pleasure! Thanks for watching!

[@RafaelusOptimus]

Tip for people following at home: I have some 8 year old hue lights and you can easily connect them to a Zigbee 3.0 hub, so instead of "breaking into" their walled garden, you just use a skeleton key. I don't know if you can still do that with newer hue lights, but I don't see why not.

[@MarkLee1]

9:04 - No one has been saying that since 5 years ago. Most small companies prefer social media instead of websites.

[@ChrisPollard]

ESP32 has been a great little board for a long time now, the real win here is that OS for it! Great work, devs!!

[@ndelahun]

With long strings of LEDs you may need to inject power part way down to stop the end ones being dimmer

[@carstenlechte]

YES! Those 0.1mm thick traces along the strip will not carry 18 amps. Run thick wires along the strip an connect to + and GND every 1 or 2 meters. You also absolutely want a properly dimensioned fuse on that power supply. This is to protect your wiring, not the power supply.

[@zsoltoravecz1815]

Yes next time i will buy 12 volt leds less resistance more length without Injecting.

[@bearb1asting]

And to keep color correct

[@MIdaffy502]

I just completed a project that had 525 WS2812, I use the BTF 5v 60A power supply with 3 outputs, one at the start of the string, and second at the end of the first string . As this was my first long string led project I had ever assembled I figured this would be enough power. I was wrong, the last 100 leds didn't have the same color as the rest of the string, meaning I needed to connect up the 3 output from the PS to the end of the string. Something else I noticed that help me make the call on the 3rd power injection was the temperature of the DC connection plugs at the led's. Very warm, enough that had me concerned, considering these would be on for 8+ hours at a time. Upon connecting up the 3rd output, the power injection connectors were now room temperature, and all 525 led's were operating properly.

[@DjWondah]

@@MIdaffy502 60A is power enough, 525 leds at full brightness white color consumes max. 21.56 A, when using effects you will use about 6-10 A max. on full brightness with colors. You probably used very thin cables to power the leds or did something else wrong. Try only power injection in the middle if possible with your project, i'm sure it's enough when using awg 13-16 wire.

[@danielh12345]

This is a good project, and well explained! If I had know I may have done my recent led project with these components. I used a gledopto controller to connect to hue, also does its job well. I guess this has more customization though! The board looks very similar to what is in the controller I think. Probably uses a variation of it? Not sad about it, still good result and simple. Did cost more though...

[@joeygallegos]

Please make more LED content - I love this video and always come back to it as a reference! I purchased a USBC PD board so I can power mine with USBC!

[@zeekjones1]

I got a bulk order of the smaller ESP8266 controllers, for just over a dollar a board, and can confirm WLED works on these as well.

[@alexandertolino5456]

Yes, the ESP8266 (look for D1 mini) is cheaper and smaller. And you do not need the pins, just solder your 3 wires to the holes on the PCB. Once flashed you can cover the ESP with hot glue, so you do not get shorts and it is more water proof.

[@turkeykaiser]

Built an entire DIY custom smart home with esp32s back in 2019. Managed it from a webpage hosted on my home server. It was pretty cool. Would recommend.

[@tutubeos]

If you are into DIY that’s good, just go for it. In the end, I went with govee, and I’m glad. The DIY is difficult, for me, the power supply is way too big, you need to spend hours and hours to find all the right components. Those 5$ controllers are always slightly different from each other, so the power supply, if you don’t know how to use them, where to connect the cables, how to program the software very complicated , then it’s a nightmare. Hours and hours lost, my experience. With Govee I found what I wanted, it’s expensive but half the price of Philips, the led strip is fantastic, and the App is fairly easy and very customizable, and everything works right away, very quickly. That’s my experience.

[@L1Z1O]

Have to agree, if it was insanely cheaper AND very reliable, I would definitely go DIY... But it seems that all these DIY don't go with an impressive length. Govee here, and everything is just so simple. I'm PERSONALLY willing to pay more for simplicity and reliability.

[@gordon861]

@@L1Z1O Take a look at the Athom WLED controller ($20), it has all the messy wiring inside so you have power in and a connector on the other end for the LEDs. This will work with 5-24V 16A so you can get whatever type of LED strip you like. There is also a similar controller from Gledopto which is about half the price but will only do 10A.

[@ethzero]

WLED+ESP32 very nicely integrates with Home Assistant 🎉❤️

[@taimaishublm]

I fully recommend using ferrule connectors on wires connecting to the power supply.

[@leventeradvanyi]

Thanks for you invent the warm water

[@kenrodriguez9645]

WLED and ESP32 is worth it if you care about details, specific run lengths, number of LEDs per meter, specific RGB scenes. If you’re just Joe blow looking to have some lights underneath the bed or behind the couch, and an IR remote is good enough to change colors for you. Stay generic, it’s not that expensive and it’s a ton less time, and there is zero chance of burning your house down. It ain’t worth learning about power injection and soldering and using a multimeter just for that.

[@johnknightiii1351]

I love how you installed them right on top of the desk. Makes the project doable for the rest of us

[@RandomUser2401]

what? how?

[@inteluser1]

I have a Wiz bulb light which was given me some software issues. So I take it apart to see the insides, and I found that the light was controlled by the same ESP32 as you showed. Also I found information about other brands using the same ESP32. I will try to flash the controller board with WLED using a usb-ttl adapter and see what I can do!

[@Icebergslim333]

This was a lot more information than I anticipated, and thus went right over my head. Still though, great video. Will definitely help someone who isn't lazy like myself.

[@ItsMeSteveyP]

Great video! Recently found your channel and I am digging the content. I'd be curious to know how you ended up "finalizing" the wiring and PS setup on this DIY LED strip.

[@karlmee1234]

For my Wled set up, I 3d printed and designed a case for my ESP8266 board to hide the wires and the board itself

[@ZacBuilds]

Nice, my bambu labs x1 just showed up in the mail today! Maybe I'll do the same

[@karlmee1234]

@@ZacBuilds Nice! Have fun with the printer, you will love it. I would like to get a bambu lab x1 but can't justify the price, for now I will stick with my heavily modified ender 3v2 😂

[@StarbucksBob]

Open source, full access to personal network, and might not be constantly auditted due to popularity, can leave you vulnerable

[@StarbucksBob]

@random acc perhaps you've not read my comment or just doesnt understand the content

[@SchysCraftCo.]

Very nice and very helpful video zac thanks so much. This will definitely come in handy. Can't wait to see more videos soon. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Keep Making. God Bless.

[@nicole46980]

another factor when buying light strips is how close the LEDs are packed, makes them a lot easier to diffuse smoothly

[@volldrauf]

@ZacBuilds Doing some research online, the green data wire should always be 5V. Do you think that this setup would work with 12v or 24v LED strips if you use a Step Up Converter (For LED Lights) or Step Down Converter (For the ESP)?

[@gordon861]

For higher voltages probably better to just use the Athom WLED controller for simplicity, just plug the power supply in one side and the same voltage LEDs on the other side. I have a 10m 12V string of LEDs and there is no colour shift along the length of the lights.

[@steveeb00]

FWIW, to avoid overheating your power supply, you should use the 80% rule. 5v x 20a = 100W x 80% = 80W maximum output. Choose the wattage of the LED strip(s) appropriately.

[@spookynerd9264]

Execellent work

[@ArpadBuildsThis]

Nice!! I’ll have to check it out!

[@ZacBuilds]

Thanks Arpad! Hope you're doing well man!

[@SnowGolem1TheL33t]

Those wires probably aren't rated for carrying 20 amps, luckily your strip wouldn't run that much nearly ever, but if it did you'd want to run your DC power supply to the other side of the strip as well, to mitigate voltage drop, wire heating and even internal breakdown on the strip itself (since it is it's own conductor) The flickering is caused by a low frequency PWM modulation for dimming, not AC power. Otherwise great tutorial and really love that people are moving away from proprietary garbage.

[@bhgemini]

Loved seeing this in action. Cannot wait to see the new home studio and your studio lights. Are you using these for accent/practicals or the actual key, fill, hair lights? I'd be curious how color accurate these are as a custom-made studio light with some diffusion fabric.

[@ZacBuilds]

That's a good question and I'm not quite sure yet. I think I might actually use them as a key light. I havent tested the CRI yet, but just by eye it appears to be quite good. It'd be fun to make some sort of flexible panel.

[@bhgemini]

@@ZacBuilds Do it and I'll watch via KZbin Premium 5 times 😆

[@Spice__King]

Worth mentioning, but you don't need to open the PSU to flip the switch, a small screwdriver can reach in and flip it. You can also spend a slight bit more and get one that auto switches and thus nothing to manually switch it over.

[@arnovanwingerde8589]

... or simply get one that is right for the country where you live... most people do not move amongst countires on a regular basis, so switchable power supplies are simply not necessary.

[@Spice__King]

@@arnovanwingerde8589That would double the number of SKUs a bare PSU manufacturer would have to make, validate, pass certification on, and manufacturer, then store and deal with the sale of. The BOM cost for the switch and duplicated parts to handle 110/220 switching is far cheaper than making two copies of many products. That said, I wish the auto switching ones had replaced it, more efficient apparently, but that costs more, so cheap companies keep demanding the cheaper PSUs, keeping the option on the market rather than killing it off for the better one.

[@junedolim]

the video i wish i'd had when i first started with WLED. solid intro to WLED on an ESP device. also, there are USB-C versions of the ESP32 for not much more. i got mine for $5.66 each on amazon

[@DanielAirthNelson]

Important note RGBWW are WAY Better then RGBW and not too much more expensive; Otherwise you miss a large spectrum in the WARM end of white and colour mixing.

[@HughsReviews]

I got a Govee tv light set up and it threw me down this led rabbit hole. I just ordered 6m of ws2812B for a display cabinet project I’m starting. Got the Domestic Automation controller board and a 15a 5v power supply. Wled app has maximum milliamp settings, so I can tune them to not exceed what my power supply can produce. The controller I got also has outputs to inject power at the end of the strip. Since it’s a display case I won’t need these at max brightness.

[@__alves_]

Great video

[@Gooloso98]

on your home network comment, that you cant trust it, what most people do, is have a separate vlan on your router, and then make your iot connect to it, then apply some policy so that vlans cant connect to one another. Great video !

[@a11aaa11a]

If you want to sync the lights with hue, I'd highly suggest going down the home assistant rabbit hole. Doing just that would be very easy, but inevitably you'll want to do more.

[@DiadasLP]

The subtitles say „they DO flicker! That’s amazing.“ xD

[@Zubbbz]

I recently got a heltec wifi kit 32(just an esp32) , and also installed homeassistant on a small Dell optiplex 3050

[@AndrewLakebrink-cz2vl]

Lol, recommends not trusting an Ali Express smart light on our home networks but proceeds to connect an Ali Express board to the network.

[@arnovanwingerde8589]

... open open source software, which does make a bit of difference, even though not a completely guaranteed safe one either.

[@AndrewLakebrink-cz2vl]

@@arnovanwingerde8589Not sure why everyone thinks open sourced is safe. By definition its code isn't locked down, making it potentially the most unsafe option.

[@309electronics5]

It's a difference. The aliexpress lights come preprogrammed with tuya cloud rubbish WHILE A MICROCONTROLLER PLATFORM LIKE THIS IS (THIS IS NOT THE LAMP) can be programmed and usually comes blank and can be programmed with your own firmware. Learn the difference between hardware and software

[@AndrewLakebrink-cz2vl]

@@arnovanwingerde8589 Open source is great but open and has that inherit vulnerability.

[@AndrewLakebrink-cz2vl]

@@309electronics5 No need to sing mud. Both items are hardware and can have malicious code stored within. You have to expect that when you buy something for much cheaper than usual that there's a catch. It's up to the buyer to decide if saving a few dollars is worth that risk. Nothing is truly secure but consumers can do their best to make it a but more challenging than buying potentially compromised hardware to save $10.

[@saltwaterrook4638]

Man, the holiday LED light show people have been doing this a few years lol. Wait until you figure out integrating NFC.

[@miket2120]

I'm one of those who doesn't like overhead lighting for general everyday use. I find it glaring, makes everything look flat and has no dimensionality. It gets even worse on those ceiling fans with integral LED lights: they just feel tiring to my eyes. All the work goes into the fan design, but as to the LED circuit, flicker city. I have LED in nearly every fixture to save money, but the lights I really use intensely are the Philips Sceneswitch (as it cycles between a 60, 45 and 20w equiv light level, it becomes warmer like an incandescent on a dimmer), a pair of DC powered IKEA gooseneck lights with theatrical gels to warm them up. Then there is the dimmed incandescent frosted white Christmas light string wrapped around a sisal rope: it's the main lighting, no flicker and a balm for the eyes.

[@underourrock]

Good video. You need to invest in a ferrule kit and crimper tool. You should be binding terminals to ferrules when possible. It helps with wire strain, better electrical connection, and more. Also power supplies should never be run over 80%. Personally, I aim for 60% for a margin of safety but also still close to their most efficient power conversion.

[@fpv-jedi]

Amazing video Zac!!! Just curious if you can control multiple LED strips from one app?

[@MrAlexrgs]

Good tutorial BTW. But a real Philips Hue RIP will use an RGB + CCT strip so you can adjust the white color temperature.

[@jeff3575davison]

chipped a tooth once when I used "the old fashioned" method for wire stripping......... later on it developed a fracture and had to have the tooth capped...... use a stripper or Exacto knife unless you still have your baby teeth.

[@ericevans9782]

You may want to add a line level converter to your final version as 3.3v on the sign wire can cause issues on longer lengths of leds. Fairly easy to add. Hope this helps

[@dennusbr]

Strange video, have Philips Hue lights here for 9 years already and they are still amazing. That is why Philips Hue is not dead, it’s expensive but very high quality.

[@mattcward]

thing to bare in mind if that the amp draw is peak LED brightness. reality is that your not likely to run it full tilt all the time

[@andrewadams9686]

Just found your channel, great topic! Curious if you've dove into Home Assistant to replace your Hue cloud stuff?

[@zora_tech]

If you are just wanting to integrate led strips to Philips hue software there are some controllers that allows you to do that, but can be pretty hard to find. But this is pretty nice if you want to switch to an all open source project. Now what would be interesting is if you can control your Philips hue lights with the open source software.

[@nicholashartmann4525]

Yeah that would be nice. (edit: talking about controlling hue with WLED) Phillips uses ZigBee 3.0 now, or rather the bridge supports it. It is an open source standard. You can hook up pretty much any light to a Bridge. This is what you're talking about. My point is, it's no longer closed source only. Of course any extra features they add to their products that aren't handled via the ZigBee protocol are not open source.

[@fabioalmeidajou]

Loved the trick with the smartphone camera to check the white balance, just tried on my room and figure out that I spent more for a supposed 6500k led and it only outputs 6000k 😑 anyway nice video man 👌

[@mindyhall4638]

Zac-I am completely overwhelmed by the LED world but want to learn more about it; this video was really clear and helpful. Thanks! Any recommendations of best places to learn about LEDs for a beginner…something like an LED 101 course? Thanks!

[@JanJanJanJanJanJanJanJanJan2]

In Case you are still looking for an answer: the wled knowledge base is a great start.

[@IcarusX99]

The "app" isn't an app like the others, it is a quick access list with scanning function. The configuration is done via the browser.

[@tatts4life838]

Watching videos about DIY led lights makes me want to do something in my house. The problem is not making it look like an 18 y/o’s bedroom

[@jdev_fr]

spidey sense kinda tilted when I heard "enter all your wifi info" into a $5 AliExpress controller. :)

[@daansteensma2207]

Great video! Id love to know how you got it synced to philleps hue, and also if its possible to controll the wled from the hue app ?

[@jayarmstrong]

Just because you can't perceive any flicker at 1x in your video doesn't mean there's no flicker, and doesn't mean your eyes won't be strained by it. Also the "worst case" test would be lowering brightness below 10%. Many LEDs don't show PWM until you dim them significantly.

[@sirdrakey]

The flicker rate can be seen by a small percentage of people that have a higher refresh rate for their eyes. Most also get headaches from florescent lights for the same reasons.

[@Ceznex]

GREAT VIDEO!! Is there an update on this setup?

[@ThisRandomGuyYouDidntNotice]

also when poking the power supply to demonstrate stuff, make sure it's not plugged in, just in case. depending on where you live there are exposed screw terminals running 230V... in the end those PSUs are meant to be inside cases :)

[@TerrisLeonis]

Many WiFi bulbs and other WiFi-enabled LED lights, especially cheaper ones, already contain an ESP8266 (often in the form of a Tuya module). The ESP8266 is the "younger brother" of the more powerful ESP32. For the adventurous with a soldering iron and a USB to serial adapter, you can connect up to these and reprogram them with WLED, Tasmota, ESPHome, or whatever other control software you prefer. Safety first: If you try this on a lightbulb or other mains-powered device, DO NOT have the device connected to mains power AT ANY TIME while you have it open or have programming wires connected to it! Let the USB to serial converter provide the required 3.3V power.

[@stephaniewilson7800]

I have similar knife skills and the scars to prove it. Knife safety is key people... Knife safety

[@Pallidus_Rider]

I am totally cool with the advertisement, as I can then use Instagram without missing the video 👍

[@evinsprague]

If you haven’t tried a digUno yet, it’s a esp32 board set on some other stuff that protects the lights and the board.

[@nicholashartmann4525]

Uhm, Phillips uses/supports Zigbee 3.0 now, which is an open source standard. Yes, some features are Phillips exclusive, such as Hue-Entertainmen, but honestly, that is also not something that is easily replicated by DIY. You can control your strip direclty from your Bridge, if you get a Zigbee Controller.

[@tarassu]

20A on a wire that can pass around 3A :D Also this strip will never pass 20A without losing about 50% on the way :D