Zero-Slack Sanding Block

[@qylerecallmeq675]

this dude is a modern day Da Vinci

[@kalkan4]

That's quite clever! And nice video editing.

[@andarm23]

Dude, this is awesome. Such a creative solution to this problem, I love the work!

[@herbertdenzel7534]

Great ideas! Great channel! Keep going, you got a huge talent!

[@grumblycurmudgeon]

Also, the interlock between the pin and the interior shaft is clever. As I pondered your complaint about the ergonomic issue with the proud nut on the top, I believe I have a solution for you: Earlier in the video, you displayed one of the alternate profiles for the face of the sander. replace the nut with something similar, such that the entire top surface BECOMES the nut. the pin will need to be made longer, such that it's accessible from the side, but so what? Additionally, the greater length of the pin offers the potential for a secondary, more svelte mechanism, too: Use a wing screw (a screw with a permanently-affiixed wingnut in place of a head) for your pin. into the side, inset a detent, such that, when in its resting state, the wing screw is pulled taught and slightly recessed into the detent, thereby precluding rotational movement, yet remains proud enough to be able to be grasped by the fingers. And hourglass profile to the detent, perhaps. Bore the hole that said wing screw needs to travel within double the diameter of the shaft of the screw (really X%; read on), stopping perhaps 1cm before the breakthrough into the central nut around the threaded rod. Bore the remaining distance the correct size. Before inserting the wing screw, add the following to its shaft in this order: 1. A bushing that allows smooth travel of the screw, and whose outer diameter is that of the larger-diameter hole. 2. A small spring (dissect a cheap click pen), 3. A locknut (sanded round after setting if you're feeling posh). Insert the assembly into the hole, ensuring the bushing is flush with the BOTTOM of the detent, and epoxy the EXTERIOR of the bushing into place. The bushing and the smaller hole will dictate the two points of the shaft's line of travel (side note: ensure said distance of travel is smaller than the distance between bushing and locknut and it'll never get hung up). I'll attempt this in ascii: ________ _____________________ __________ / //////// NUT |====[LN]/////SPRNG/////))BSHNG )==||WS|| ```````` `````````````````````````` ``````````````\ \\\\\\ KEY NUT - around thr. rod LN - Locknut SPRNG - Pen Spring BSHNG - Bushing WS - Wingscrew Operation Sequence: A. When one grabs the wing screw and pulls, the spring will be compressed between the locknut and the thickness of the bushing. rotate the wing screw's head 90º and release. Now proud of the detent, it will remain suspended with its "wings" planted a cm above the detent's bottom on the edges of the detent. B. Rotate the ENTIRE TOP PROFILE, acting as a nut, to desired height. C. Rotate wing screw 90º. Spring decompresses and snaps both wing screw's head into detent and its shaft into threaded rod within. D. Rotate top profile a final 180º (an operation made easier due to the additional torque supplied by the greater mechanical advantage afforded by the larger, more oblong top profile, added bonus), bringing it back into alignment with the body to pull the paper taught and complete the operation.

[@ogenmatic]

Always enjoy your videos. You’ve got a very creative mind and skills to implement them.

[@daveh4079]

I’m curious, when you spin the rod assembly to ensure freedom of rotation at approx 5:00, what components are you trying to calibrate the fit? The nut in the drilled out hole or the rod in the wooden retention ring? Also, would a hex head bolt work the same for that end of the assembly? I will eventually try to make one of these using a skate bearing instead of the washer/wooden retention ring. Not sure it will serve any purpose. I just a box of them lying around. Another great video. Thanks.

[@thomasaoki748]

I was loosening the fit of the nut in the hole. After installing it I found it would bind at points and not turn freely. And yes a bolt would definitely work! I just had more nuts and threaded rod laying around so I did it that way. A bearing would definitely work better. In my last video where I made a vise I found that if you slightly mushroom over the end of a 3/8" rod to effectively increase its diameter at the very tip, you can prevent the rod from falling through a bearing with an ID of 3/8". So if you friction fit a bearing in place of the nut/rod/pin assembly you could conceivably mushroom over the end of the threaded rod so that it can't get pulled up through the bearing. Great suggestion!

[@daveh4079]

I just rewatched your vise video. I forgot about that mushrooming trick. Will definitely try that. Looking forward to your next project/video.

[@greg7191]

2-28 the use of a mechanical pencil as a depth gauge is brilliant...

[@markhedquist9597]

Quite ingenious!

[@breakinn403]

How do we find out the answer to the riddle?

[@thomasaoki748]

The answer is; the man used his fifty dollars to purchase one 50 dollar gift card. Then he used that gift card to buy yet another 50 dollar gift card. He repeated this until he had one fifty dollar gift card that was full, and 9 fifty dollar gift cards that had no money on them, thus leaving the store with ten fifty dollar gift cards!

[@mattcourty6322]

Well done! Keep it up!

[@Ashdad99]

Kids a dam genius

[@_earlyworm]

the man bought the cards without loading them :^)

[@grumblycurmudgeon]

Does the man own the store?