Zinc Plating Introduction - D.I.Y. Hobbyist How-To Demonstration

Zinc anode material
www.amazon.com...
Buckets with watertight lids
www.amazon.com...
Muriatic acid
www.amazon.com...
50 GPH pump
www.ebay.com/i...
This are the anodes I didn't care-for
www.ebay.com/i...
Rectifier
www.ebay.com/i...
Aquarium heater
www.ebay.com/i...
Yellow chromate solution
caswellplating...
REPP70 blast cabinet
www.redlinesta...
Leads for connecting both anodes from one side to the other
www.harborfrei...
Epsom salt
www.walmart.co...
Distilled white vinegar
www.walmart.co...
Distilled water

[@rockwell6594]

As another viewer has noted, the plating process tends to require line of sight between the zinc anode and the areas of the part that you want to be plated. The ideal is have surface of the the zinc anode entirely surrounding and equally distant from all the surfaces of the part. Obviously, it is not practical to achieve that ideal setup, however, if the setup departs too far from that, the process may not work, as was illustrated with the interior of the first part. In the semi-enclosed areas of the part, there will be little electric field to drive the plating process. So, for that somewhat hollow part that wouldn't plate internally, try arranging extra small zinc anode centrally within the hollow space of the part. Given the short distance between that extra anode and the internal surfaces you will have to dial back the current to avoid the fury zinc deposit problem. Good video. Cheers

[@eddavis7975]

A❤😊

[@Xiph1980]

It's not so much line of sight, but equal (distance/potential) values. Edges and other protruding regions on the item to plate carry a higher change than the general mass of the object without an anode to start with. Add the anode where halving the distance between anode and object quadruples the charge, this effect gets even stronger resulting in a much heavier zinc layer on protrusions. You can somewhat mitigate this by adding a stirrer of some kind to the plating bath.

[@firstname-qq3xp]

​@@Xiph1980i wish i understood what you said 😂

[@firstname-qq3xp]

How do you fix the fuzzy zinc? Do you have to strip or can you just drop amps and keep going?

[@kempaswe4022]

Skip the pump and get a aquarium air pump insted. Works just fine. And for zink you can buy zinkanodes for boats and use them

[@jake-hy2zb]

As always, a great video. The best content providers as yourself, show the Good, The Bad, and the Ugly. I will be watching the comments to see the input from your viewers. Thank you for all of time you take to provide us Neophytes.

[@schafer240]

Thanks for the transparency, one thing I did notice is after you dip your part in hydrochloric acid, you need to dip it into a water/baking soda solution. That will neutralize the acid. Best of luck

[@breyn9766]

Zinc anodes will turn black during the plating process. You would normally place a zinc anode into a Anode filter bag.

[@troytaylor1913]

The first time I zinc-plated was when I was a kid in the 70's. I got zinc from dead flashlight batteries the cases are made of zinc. I put my battery charger on 6 volts I think. I was amazed at how well it worked and I didn't know what I was doing.

[@julianopappalardo29]

Thanks for all the tips! I just reccomend that you focus on the fluid dynamics of your system, since, together with electromagnetic forces (?) it's the advective flow that will carry all the ions to the piece you are plating!!! My best regards!

[@WilliamVG]

I'm starting to dabble in zinc plating myself, restoring a few rare parts. Thanks for sharing.

[@occamsrazor1285]

instead of a straight anode, I recommend rolling it into a cylinder around the edge of the bucket.

[@KerryCox1967]

Thanks for posting both your successes and failures. Very educational video. Thanks for the information and links.

[@MrDNA1981]

ok , I've done a little zinc , copper and nickel plating and I think you have 2 things affecting your results , 1 you need to load up the electrolyte with zinc ions first - turning the solution into zinc acetate . hook one zinc anode and one zinc cathode up in the solution with no part involved and plate from one to the other for an hour or two then reverse the polarity and plate back to the other totalling maby 6 to 8 hours , this puts the zinc in to solution ready to plate all surfaces immediately with the anode 1. replacing zinc ions real time with ones being deposited onto the part and 2. being (well) the anode. second is I think your mix is off , 1. I'd try more like 2:1 vinegar to water maby even 3:1 and 2. reduce the epsom salt by half at least maby only 1/3 - the epsom salt is there to make the solution more conductive and I believe the (crystaling) burning on the edged are from the current being to high exacerbated by the overly conductive solution. with plating balancing the the solution is important and slow and steady wins the race , your prep work is absolutely perfect the problem is all what's in the bucket and the current it is plating at

[@RedlineStands]

Sounds plausible. I'll give it a try and make another video if I find something that works well.

[@eddielane7009]

Try putting a filter around the zinc anoide to help stop the crux bits, maybe a coffee filler. I have no experience in plating but going to give it a go. Keep up the good work.

[@imetr8r]

For better uniformity, hang a bolt at each threaded hole and connect all bolts to a separate copper wire, then connect each copper wire to your copper pipe. The problem is that electrons want to flow as far from each other as possible and thus accumulate at the edges. You need to get the electrons propagating from the "hidey-holes".

[@JC-vh7vy]

The deposition will happen on the closest surfaces to the anode. Another thing you could try is to use wax on the surfaces already coated, that will make the zinc only have opportunity to stick to the parts that remain in electrical contact. If you are heating the solution the wax may melt; you might want to turn that off for the second part. Another solution is to place the sacrificial anode inside the part, that way the zinc will migrate first to the uncoated metal. Make sure you use something to isolate the cathode from the part.

[@dartplayer170]

As noted below the electroplating process is directional. The zinc moves from the anode to the part. One solution is to use a bubbler to disturb the path of the zinc. Another solution is to rotate the part while it is electroplating. And another solution is to have multiple anodes around the tank. The effectiveness of these solutions depends on the geometry of the part. For complex parts it might be better to use the brush plating technique. Increasing the current causes the zinc ions to pile up and spread out, which also helps to disperse the path a little, but it is not the best way to evenly plate as it creates dendrites.

[@crdenardin]

in the alkaline zinc plating process, DOHENYS FLOCCULENT can be used to shine the zinc plating and after the passivation process, get that iridescent appearance. Could you test if it also works for acid zinc plating? Unfortunately here in Brazil they use aluminum in similar products and I believe that aluminum will affect the cleaning of the solution. Look for the "DIY Bright Zinc Plating" video to see the amount of flocculant.

[@seymourpro6097]

Run a small zinc anode inside the component. With this supplying zinc to the inside and the external anodes directing zinc to the outside, the plating will be more even.

[@jlplumley2]

I noticed on other videos that they polished with a wire brush the zinc before they put the yellow plating on.

[@donnykiofetzis5775]

i think you need to charge your electrolyte with more zinc ions before you plate.' you're trying to drag out too much zinc from the anode to make up for it. thus, burning the edges and getting a crusty finish. i only use an old phone charger. that's about 3 volts and it's rated in milliamps. its slow to Coate and comes out very good surface finish nice flat silver color. but no shiny Crome look like Caswells kits give you. if i need shiny i polish the part

[@crownvicca]

Plating works by line of sight. If you are not getting plating on all parts of the part then that part doesn't have line of sight with zinc.

[@jackmclane1826]

This is why commercial plating solutions have a myriad of different additives to increase the "throw" of the solution. That is electroplater jargon for a solutions ability to coat uneven surfaces. Simple solutions usually have a throw of something close to zero, meaning it will coat very unevenly. Definitly not inside corners. For a home player, it is pretty much impossible to set up a solution just right for a certain piece. That is also the reason why commercial platers refuse to do small batches. Because the solution and the process must be dialed in for each piece. But for us, there is a way around it: Change electrode positioning during coating. First do it like shown here. Then place the anode very close to the uncoated surfaces. Stick it inside the part if necessary and go on plating. 3D printing fixtures can help suppress short circuits. And one possible misunderstanding that I pick up: Increasing the voltage and amperage INCREASES Faraday shielding of inside corners. It makes it MORE uneven. Lower voltage improves the throw. You cannot go down to zero, as you have a minimum voltage necessary to drive the process. But going slow and giving it time helps, and might reduce the number of steps required.

[@Sam-ob4of]

Regular salt might create chlorine gas because it's NaCl; epsom salt won't because it's MgSO4•7H2O (magnesium sulfate heptahydrate)

[@MrHamman1111]

Try using Sulfuric acid instead of acidic acid. It's a little more dangerous but will give you more throwing power. The zinc ions don't like to plate in recessed areas. You could try building off of your hanger a cage that mimics your recessed areas. Not touching the part of course. Also, I would suggest hanging the part directly and moving it throughout the process. otherwise, your threads will not plate and rust will start there and propagate out.

[@MrHamman1111]

FYI , sulfuric acid and zinc will create Hydrogen gas. Be careful if you do try it.

[@KimDixon-q9s]

I watched another video and the guy put the same amount of suger as salt into the brine, this apparently stops the bild up on the edges. good video cheers.

[@WadeCallil-wn7qx]

Try using 4 pieces of zinc evenly spread.

[@raticalinc_restore_garage]

Try using a fish tank pump for adjitation that will help in hard to get areas

[@Midget_X]

Good video just one suggestion is let zinc sit in solution for a day then do it. It devolves in solution

[@kalyan20091000]

Exlent teaching.

[@JB-NZ]

Question for you @redlinestands - could you do this type of zinc plating, but on the inside of a gas tank, after you have acid cleaned it etc, to stop it rusting? Instead of having something sitting on a wire in a plastic bucket of solution, have the tank as the electrified part, solution inside it, and zinc plate the inside of the tank? Thanks

[@RedlineStands]

Idk man. Tbh, you're just asking the wrong guy. I definitely don't consider myself a professional on this topic.

[@billyblackie9417]

Is it possible that instead of using Epsom salt you could use washing soda which is what a lot of people are using. I cant get washing soda in my country or I just can't find it so I make my own I learned in a couple of KZbin videos. I buy baking soda and spread it evenly on a baking tray. Cook in the oven on 200c for 30 minutes to evaporate all the water out of it and the result is washing soda after 30 minutes in the oven. You might need to shake the tray half way through cooking it if you have a lot on the tray and you don't need to add anything at all to the tray while cooking. HINT: If you place a baking sheet of paper on the tray and put the backing soda on the sheet then when cooked it is easier to roll it up and funnel it into the container you want to keep it in

[@YosielLedesma-v4h]

Viendo el vídeo al final solo lo tiñes de amarillo, creo que debes sacar la pieza del baño de zinc, luego enjuagarla con agua, después pasarla por un ácido pasivo, después enjuagarla con agua, luego teñirla de amarillo, luego enjuagarla con agua, después secarla con aire con un soplador y después secarla en un horno o sea una fuente de calor que evapore la humedad y debes lograr el efecto brilloso en la pieza.

[@joaquinsolis7071]

My guess is table salt has chlorine (NaCl)and epsom salt doesn’t hence no chlorine gas.

[@gaulix69]

your problems are easy : less plating insides concave parts (low current density area) = need more zinc ions/salts in the solution. burning on part edges (high current density area) = need less current. for a more uniform deposite in acid zinc plating, you need a complexing salt. most popular acid zinc formula are based on zinc chloride, and potassium chloride complexing agent. for a shine plating you should use a surfactant, SDBS is very good. acid bath are good for build-up tickness plating, alkaline bath have a better throwing power. before imerge your part into the chromate passivating solution, you need to imerge the part into a dillute nitric acid solution.

[@RedlineStands]

Would you mind to post the formula for making these solutions? It sounds like you know what you're talking about, but without specifics on how to follow your suggestions, I'm not sure I'll be able to use this info. Thanks Gaulix69.

[@gaulix69]

​@@RedlineStands there are free patent online. do some try in google : -"zinc potassium chloride plating solution free patent" -"zinc sulfate plating solution free patent" -" alkaline zincate plating solution free patent" You ll find your happiness. and check and understand all electroplating words, electro cleaning, acid dip activator, throwing power, low and high current density, surfactant, wetting agent, complexing agent, leveler, current density etc... you need to understand what going on, and listen electro-chemistry if you want repetable sucess. Good luck in your work.

[@CarTrain1]

Wow, I don’t have your patience which is why I just use zinc color spray paint😂

[@Gobi2K17]

Great video thank you

[@AutodidactEngineer]

I personally use a 14v 4A car battery charger and recently I copper plated a 4 inch vise😂😂😂

[@johannesbrun1225]

VERY helpful video!! How long do you typically leave the parts in the mixture?

[@RedlineStands]

It's different every time depending on how the part looks. 15-45 minutes

[@tazanteflight8670]

I bet the edge effect you are seeing is because of the plasma cutting torch hardens the metal.

[@shadow_bandit403]

Do you need surfactant like cumylphenol

[@charlescoker7752]

How safe is the yellow chromate?

[@MechaHolic]

Good job bro

[@1cnfour349]

Put the zinc anode in the Center of the part

[@nanoblasting]

thank you

[@firstname-qq3xp]

How do you fix the fuzzies? Do you strip in miuratic or just drop amps and continue plating?

[@RedlineStands]

Dude, if I knew, I'd have titled this video, "Tips from a Pro."

[@jayk2k]

if you do not want a yellow finish , do you just not dip into Yellow chromate solution ?

[@RedlineStands]

Correct. The yellow chromate just makes the plating more resilient

[@stepsvideos]

About those edges over-plating @18:37 it is said that electric fields are stronger on sharp edges. Maybe that is the reason for the plating material being attracted more towards the edge of the plate?

[@johnslugger]

*You just need an Air Bubblier and air-stone!*

[@JBK647]

Simply unplug the pump before you stick a probe in it. No danger.

[@kevincutler8894]

The camera is waaay too close to you.

[@lt.frankdrebin3317]

Very informative video. I feel ready to try it myself. Let's Go Brandon! USA.

[@RedlineStands]

It's so weird to me that you can see someone in the U.S. today flying a flag outside their home, and you know who they're voting-for. I really wish that wasn't true; shouldn't be that way.

[@diamondpressco2673]

wouldnt you have to double your amps with two anodes?

[@occamsrazor1285]

That doesn't double the amperage, it divides it BUT you're on the right track. You ever seen a lightning bolt? Or lightning in a jar? Those science experiments? The bolts look like a delta. The high the amperage, the greater the "tendrils" (spurs) BUT it's never more than a 45 degree angle. Issue is "light of sight" coverage. Also called "shadowing". He needs another anode that has line of sight to that portion of the part.

[@wowyummyyy]

LIKE👍👍👍👍👍 💯💯💯 😻😻😻😻

[@busatrx850]

Anyone who starts a video with ‘What’s Up’ deserves none of my attention. I switch of immediately.

[@RedlineStands]

Good

[@qivarebil2149]

Another 4-minute video, packed with tons of babbel and rubbish talk.

[@RedlineStands]

Would you mind to please link me to your 4 minute video that somehow adequately explains plating? I'd really like to watch that and learn from a pro. Please, post the link sir.

[@Richard-lionhearted]

Wow your really not good at this process yet

[@pcexpress911]

Lol ...😂

[@zacsdiyguns]

You're

[@fvrrljr]

@@zacsdiyguns his grammar is not "very good looking" either

[@J-Justice666]

Instead of a pump, use an equarium bubbler for circulation... No moving parts or stray current.