Small Engine Muffler Removal Tip

I show how I remove stuck on mufflers and pipes.

[@williammoore5924]

Sir, that was certainly my first removal on a muffler extraction. Great video and info. Tks for being so detailed. Take care

[@Jamestfarrell]

Thanks for refreshing this old mechanic's memory-I've used this trick before and it worked again! There were 1/4"X20 threaded holes for a flange type exhaust/muffler but I picked up a brand new canister type with the 3/4" pipe thread at Tractor Supply for $7 and it threaded in perfectly. I also stuffed a rag in the exhaust port BEFORE I started hack sawing out the old, broken off section.

[@bonehill100]

Like many -I wouldnt have known about this without your video - thanks very much for taking the time to do it - saved my est. 1973 KD3.5 Briggs and Stratton leaf vacuum to fight another day and with new muffler also saved my and neighbours ears! cheers from N Ireland

[@Marz78963]

Thanks for this tip. I will be giving it a try as I'm restoring my fathers 1967 Tiller and sadly has seen better days. Has been left out in the elements and not ran in over 35 years. I've got the full block disassembled but the muffler has broken off due to rust and no matter how much heat or penetrating oil I put on this thing it will not move. So my last option is to cut the pipe as you suggested and hopefully that'll get it out. My 2nd problem is with the exhaust valve. It's stuck closed and haven't had much luck yet in getting it unstuck either.

[@andersforrad]

Thanks to your movie I saved my old 73-model 2 HP Briggs. Also read in the comment below that its a risk on aluminium blocks. It worked great on my block in aluminium, and threads is great. So thanks for a good tip! Cheers from Sweden!

[@ericclark8258]

ZIPPO, Thankyou again for instilling the knowledge and confidence on this progect.

[@iamthenakedape]

I will be using this method. This is exactly what I needed to know. Thanks for the tip.

[@ZippoVarga]

I wish you the best in the removal! They can be a bear, and this tip really makes short work of it. Cheers! Zip~

[@felicelamanna3654]

First try putting a close fitting socket into the pipe so the wrench doesn't deform the stuck pipe. It's a lot easier. If that doesn't work then use this method.

[@ZippoVarga]

Excellent advice! Thanks for chipping in!! Zip~

[@topconker2909]

Hey Zippo, just used your recommendation to remove the exhaust on a Brigs and Stratton 3hp motor and BRILLIANT, jobs a good un!

[@ZippoVarga]

Glad it helped!

[@belairjohn5579]

great tip ! gonna try it out this weekend, thanks.

[@nelsonlance1256]

i realize I am kinda randomly asking but does anyone know a good place to stream newly released tv shows online ?

[@finleyoakley4382]

@Nelson Lance I watch on flixzone. Just google for it :)

[@RBMawby]

Knew the method but glad to see it gets applied here.

[@richhagee]

Wonderful tip Zippo, thanks.

[@ZippoVarga]

Glad you found it helpful. Please reply in kind by Subscribing! Cheers! Zip~

[@heavysnow8616]

Maybe spray with rust penetrant first and let it soak for a bit. Start mower and get it good and hot. Try screwing the pipe out with the pipe wrench. If that fails, your method will always work, some are more stubborn than others. Great video! P.S. “ Go old school” I resemble that......

[@ZippoVarga]

Yep, all other efforts were exhausted before I went this route. They can sometimes be very stubborn! Cheers Michael! Zip~

[@johnathonglaspie5917]

Dude thst helps a lot I did thst and it worked with ease

[@tommyt8798]

Adding a locking nut doesn’t ensure the exhaust fitting will come off next time. Just screwing it in partially will still freeze up when on after many years. My Kohler k341 locking nut probably factory original removed no problem but the threaded fitting in block was frozen stuck. Putting locking nut will not help much but never seize on threads will.

[@swjd94]

I like the conduit lock idea

[@thomasz4981]

Any tips on getting the 2 bottom screws of the diaphram cover out when you have an oval muffler? You have to take half the motor & tiller apart just to chang the diaphram. Thanks.

[@ericclark8258]

Any suggestions as to where to buy a original muffler ..thankyou Zippo.

[@jwong19]

Very appreciated your useful tip. !

[@59chevt]

Zip, great tip and tutorial. thanks tom

[@keithshreve6736]

Thanks Zippo! Great job !

[@ZippoVarga]

Hope it helps Keith! Zip~

[@duffythewhitedog]

Thanks Zippo Great advice

[@ZippoVarga]

You bet! Zip~

[@dhouser1695]

I had to do this with a old shallow well jet pump that i snapped the inlet pipe off on

[@ronaldwells1805]

Good job Zippo

[@ZippoVarga]

Thanks Ronald! Zip~

[@vonnieneyhart1593]

You're a lawnmower saver

[@vansantsam]

Could you fill those slots in with JB Weld and either rethread or screw your muffler (wax the threads so the JB weld doesn't stick) in and keep turning it in and out until the JB Weld starts to set up?

[@ZippoVarga]

It's truly not necessary to fill the slit in Jim, but if you wanted to, I would use a product called Steel Stick for the task. Cheers! Zip~

[@vansantsam]

Cool thanks..

[@lookeywho1287]

That's an old plumbing trick. Works good. If you attempt to use a pipe wrench, do not try it as shown, it's designed to make contact on all three sides of the wrench. (Top jaw, bottom jaw and back of wrench). You'll round the pipe otherwise.

[@ZippoVarga]

Great sound advice Lookey! Thanks for that tip! Cheers! Zip~

[@mikebonge7206]

Great video

[@ZippoVarga]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@belairjohn5579]

thanks for the tip. worked great!!!

[@JasonTylerRicci]

Great informative video. Going to apply this method to remove mine. Thank you.

[@ZippoVarga]

+Jason Ricci You're very welcome Jason! Zip~

[@trendingverge]

I just kept smashing mine around until it came out. Lol.

[@Ram2253spd]

Great tip

[@smoothdemon2]

Thanks, it worked

[@FounderOn3]

thanks! i got my exhaust off with this method

[@ZippoVarga]

Fantastic!! I'm glad it worked for you! Zip~

[@GDTractor]

Great tip !! Thanks !!

[@zethz6658]

Have a Duetz-Allis 914H that I,m working on and have thoughts of doing a straight stack on the exhaust.I,ve built old Harleys for years with straight pipes but always used baffles to create "back pressure"...would this theory also apply to my kohler engine? Thanks!

[@ZippoVarga]

+Zeth Z You're right on point Zeth. Maintain back pressure and be ready to make carburetor adjustments. Also, it's impritive to brace your stack to the engine it self to a secure point, like a couple of head bolts or by utilizing the accessory bolt holes at the front crank shaft side of the engine if accessible. Sounds like you're on the right path to doing it right. Cheers!! Zip~

[@zethz6658]

Sorry about that...got knocked out from finishing reply.....any how,thanks again bud.I,ve looked at some of your other tapes and have a pretty good idea on changing the exhaust system over.keep up the good work.

[@umajunkcollector]

WTG, good idea! Beats using an M80! The Donold

[@1969zman1]

Thank you! Thank you! i come up to a problem and you seem to have the answer. was wondering about using a very small amount of anti-sieze or high heat Permatex to maybe help with removal next time?

[@ZippoVarga]

Use a locking collar and simply don't tighten the muffler tight into the engine. It will always come out just by loosening the locking collar. Check my video on that. You can use an electrical conduit locking collar in 1" OD size to lock the muffler to the engine block. Never use any product on the pipe threads. Here's a link to locking down pipes. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aIiwgmmpp9GGZq8

[@jordanforeman7563]

This way works

[@zundfolge1432]

I tried that lock muffler trick..........still came loose........depends on how heavy a muffler you have. Light mufflers it works. Heavy mufflers and aluminum briggs engines it doesnt work

[@ZippoVarga]

I also have videos showing how to brace heavier mufflers to engines to help prevent stress on the exhaust port. Especially aluminum block engines when adding heavy mufflers, the muffler should be braced directly to the engine. I've seen many blocks break at the exhaust ports from this. Common sense goes a long way, when you have aluminum threads and a steel locking ring, the two metals don't play well together and you run the risk of pulling the threads right out of the block. With aluminum block engines, always brace the muffler securely using at least two head bolt screws and a substantial strap material (at least 8 gauge). In your other comment you stress how picky you are, so here's sound advice to protect your engine from catastrophic damage and not just a little score mark in the threads ;-) Cheers! Zip~

[@crawford323]

Genius

[@zundfolge1432]

much better methods than that...........have a welder?? buzz away. I would have not sawed it flush. I would saw it 1 inch away and saw a bit of relief.then you can chizel it. Im pickey. I wouldnt like a saw mark in my threads

[@ZippoVarga]

There's 100 ways to the end result. Thanks for this alternate method Zund. Zip~

[@trendingverge]

Now I have to pay 75 bucks a motor to get the threads fixed. Thanks bud.

[@ZippoVarga]

I tried to tell you beforehand!! I hope everything turns out ok for you Verge. Zip~

[@trendingverge]

Fixed it with heli thing. Re thread tool from advance. 🤫