Was the tps the problem for the no start

Good ideas.

I’ve dealt with tight valves in a Scion (Toyota engine) before. Had to measure the lash between the valve lash caps and camshaft and do the math on how much more I needed then ordered caps that gave me the right amount of clearance. Someone had just recently done a head gasket and the machine shop had the valves way too tight causing a rough idle.

Does it ask for a bunch of RPO codes when trying to scan a GM something? I hate that with the Autel I have. Entering the VIN seems almost useless.

Very good! I'm dealing with a 2018 Caddy CT6 intermittent no audio & video touch screen when it does not work have a fixed 12 Volt on the Network serial 5 when it works i see comm. message on that circuit have trouble finding any info on that network. It just goes between HMI and the Video touch screen any suggestion would be great

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After seeing this, My xtool D8 may actually be a clone of Autel; because it looks almost identical on most screens. Even the physical tablet is very similar, with the side grips, etc. interesting

A good competitor to this would be the xtool D8.. Their pric3 has dropped from seven hundred, down to around four fifty now, for the "wired" version. It's hard to beat at that pric3. Three years free updates. It's actually really good at IMMO and can pull codes for it. They even added topology about a year ago.. has full actuation tests and over 30 special functions. and can do some EEprom (supposedly). So this thing is the one to get if you're on a budget, IMO. To get anything better, you have to sp3nd over a thousand.

Test light was a good call, I liked that.

New follower and love your videos great work.

Diagnostics with aftermarket garbage found as the cause should be an EXTRA charge. This should be a thing, lol. World class diags!

The 20% off when you press pay, cancels try again, when you do, it will say discount already used. Happened last year also, wish for auto VIN also. Save your money, find another platform. It is not flat rate friendly.

I will stick with launch and topdon . 2 year subscriptions and they don’t brick after the subscription

Nice unit. You have to "explore" the tool with various vehicles to see what they can do.

Chinese vendors selling on Amazon so you’re limited support and warranty buy at your own risk is what it should say

I bought the @harborfreight T8 and regret it. It’s fairly fast, but doesn’t have topology, which I had hope it came with. Not sure why new scanners aren’t coming standard with topology. It’s an amazing troubleshooting assist.

For $399 the launch crp919xbt is best bang for the buck in that category.

What would be a great versatile scan tool for a mobile mechanic/ auto diagnostic tech

I have the MX808 Which I was told is the US version and Mk808 is for overseas

If you don't purchase a update does it brick or just stay at last update ?

nice bit of kit for the money 👍 but i tell you man if i had a £/$ for every time i have had a customer that has diy scanned there car fired the parts canon for £/$ 200 or more then it don’t fix it for me to say the scan tool gives you an indication or a path to follow but you then need to test the entire circuit/part what it needs what it wants and what’s missing i would be able to retire tomorrow 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

I actually believe it is Autoauth capable.

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Good unit! We have the mp 808. It has full bi directional.

Thank you very much, the way you arrive at the fault is the main thing

JAKE, YOU ROCK BROTHER AWESOME APPROACH AND THOUGHT PROCESS TO DIAGNOSE TODAYS CAR A SCOPE IS MUST IN MY OPENION GREAT VIDEO THANKS FOR SHARING CHEEEEERS FROM CANADA.

Would you do a tutorial on how you selected and constructed the connector set you use? For a novice knowing more about constructing the test tools is a big deal

Thank you for helping me learn. I had a bad airbag module and your videos helped me figure it out. I don’t see how I would have ever found that without learning this stuff

Your knowledge of using overlay in your diagnostics is incredible. Drawing red lines and forming boxes over the circuits really helps me follow along better. I'm more used to trouble shooting with schematics that have the reference signals and voltages under a diagnostics loop

That resistor is probably a limiting resistor in conjunction with a capacitor thats wasn't drawn in the wiring diagram. Having a schematic of the ecm and that ignition circuit with reference voltages or reference signals would help greatly. I know wats wrong it it ain't got no gas😂🤣 or it ain't got no ground 🤣😂😂😂

These QX 56 2011 - 2012 had a recall on the timing chains. But it continues to be an issue to this day. The fuel pump has a thin cap that rolls on the camshaft. It wears rather quickly and throws the timing off for the fuel pump. The timing job is rather expensive because the entire front axle has to come out. The QX56's are notorious for stretching the chains. I've owned 3 plus 2 - QX80's. I'm not saying I'm an expert but only speaking from experience. Good luck and love your content.

nice. i love these electrical studies. gives us newbs a change to reinforce the electrical basics through YOUR eyes and hands. I only fix my own and luckily (Or unluckily) I've never had an electrical issue with my 3. only boring brakes and door-handles... The wife did say her power seat stopped going forward for a few days, maybe I can convince her I need a new 4 channel Pico to fix it...

Had the same exact experience, replaced EBCM, sent new ECM for tuning, replaced lower engine wiring harness, fuse block on both sides of engine bay and it finally was good for a year. Now the problem is back. I’m gonna check that connection at the pressure sensor and see if that pigtail has a bad connection. But being the fact the truck is tuned and deleted has nothing to do with a bad connection at the fuel pressure sensor

Maybe missing data packets from a module

People think an ignition switch is an ignition switch like seen years ago handling 12V when now all it is is a sensor handling a low ref voltage and sending a signal voltage to BCM so it can control the real ignition switch-the run/crank relay and that relay is the real ignition switch for loads to be wired to. Thanks for sharing.

Great job

🤣 I didn't get that....Could you try again.! Lol Geat diag Jake. Taking the time to further investigate the logic of that switch and then obviously once again, the power of the lab-scope to proved out the issue. Honestly, I thought it was going to be someones aftermarket auto start crap before you even went there with that rear view camera junk. Again...Awesome find and great captures of how that circuit works. 🤩👍

You always have interesting diags

Your meter is fast enough... just take it out of autorange and into manual range 60. Then you see everything from 0 to 60V. At the end this is a 6000 count meter.

Great job. I like the way you think things thru. I always learn something from your videos.

Amazing diagnostic work. Even though the answer was there from the start. Wrong component fitted. Wrong new parts can be very frustrating. Was the correct sensor a SENT sensor ?

We learn a lot from you. Greetings from Iraq

The cam for the hp pump is timed it has a dot and coloured link you could remove upper cover and check

Enjoy each video you make, BMW ISTA vid would be sweet!

great diagnostic , smart logic good job

yeah, I was ready to replace the ignition switch when you were.

That was cool

You never cease to amaze me. I have learned so much from you and I can't thank you enough.

Nice! Negative Parts Required is always a win 😁👌

Great case study! I admire your patients to actually diagnose it and not first pull out all the aftermarket stuff.