Without knowing more specifics (like tree type, tree size, how protected of a spot the tree is going, etc.), if you are still reaching freezing temperatures, have wide temperature fluctuations from day to night, and/or the tree is in an open spot where it receives intense winter sunlight, you might want to protect your tree from sun scald and frost cracks and/or provide it with some added level of insulation. Younger trees and certain types of trees (like maples and fruit trees) with thinner bark thinner bark are more susceptible to damage from the sun, from large daily temperature swings, and from moisture loss through the bark. Also, I'm not sure that there are many spots on earth that are inhabited by humans, where rodents (who happen to love young/supple bark) don't also exist. If your tree/location isn't at risk, then it would seem unnecessary and on the flip-side you risk damage by leaving it on too long - promoting a spot for insects and disease/fungus to live and grow (the latter particularly in a moist climate). For those reasons, if you do decide to use it, be sure to remove it as soon as the cold danger is gone and the growing season starts.

@@VanZeelandNurseryLandscape i told you a little history of our wildlife garden, just as a thank you for your helpful reply ... it seems to have dsappeared ... anyway, all best to you and your trees over the cold season

It depends upon what you are trying to accomplish. Both provide protection - but to varying degrees of different hazards. The tube is going to provide a strong level of protection from rabbits and deer and good sun/scald protection. It may not provide any protection from smaller rodents (like mice), who might even make a home out of the tube (if it is too large and loose). The paper is going to be better at providing protection for those smaller rodents, good protection from other animals (but not as good as a tube), and excellent sun/scald protection. You certainly can't go wrong by doing both, but it may not be necessary.

What is it ? I have something the size of a brick that grew over night on the wood of my garden bed

Thank you! Unfortunately, we've moved to a new location. While we have many other cool things there, we miss our big maple.

thank you

You can take them off in spring, when you don't expect any more hard frosts.

we're glad this helped! we get a dozen of these calls each year.

This depends upon your objective is (are you trying to remedy a specific problem or are you trying to boost the plants growth) and what your current soil's condition is (ideally, you would test your soil before determining what fertilizer rates to apply). Without any additional knowledge, a multi-purpose fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, would generally be beneficial. Having said that, wait until spring to fertilize your spruce, before the new growth occurs, rather than fertilize in the fall.

@@VanZeelandNurseryLandscape the original owners had placed the Norwegian Spruce here went they built the home. They are roughly 30-40ft tall now. They stated they have never fertilized or trimmed them any since planting. So, I just assumed that they could use some type of fertilizer product to keep them healthy. I will order a soil test kit in the spring an apply a fertilizer based on what the test says is lacking! Last question, the Hemlocks on another part of the property have a spider mite problem, could I spray the Spruce with some Neems Oil as a preventative? I was not sure if neems oil was safe for spruce or not. Thank you!

@@Dishner-ws5lg Since you aren't trying to treat a specific condition, your spruce may not need any fertilization. Having said that, a multi-purpose fertilizer (like the 10-10-10) or something more specific (like Evergreen-tone) would give them a little boost. It is a little unclear what you want to put the neem oil on - spruce or hemlock. As you may be alluding to though, neem oil can be phytotoxic to certain plants and/or plants that are exposed to full sun at the time of spraying. Having said that, if your plant is in full sun, you may want to use an insecticidal/miticidal soap instead.

Tyler513 - it depends on a variety of factors, including what you are trying to protect the trees from. If you are trying to protect trees from deer damage, for instance, it is not uncommon to see larger trees (even 4"+ diameter) thrashed by larger whitetail deer - especially fruit trees. Softer barked trees, like certain maples, are going to be more sensitive to sunscald - even at an older age. If you can scratch through the bark (and expose the green layer underneath), with your fingernail or something hard, like a key, then consider protecting it. It's difficult to describe without imagery, but when a tree develops its thicker/more coarse/platy/mature bark you are safe from most damage - whether that be sunscald or animals.

I found one 😅 it came on my avocado seed but it died before I could make it a real home 😅 now I ordered them dried out 😅

yes - you can use candling to restrict growth and by such, that will make the tree look more full

@@VanZeelandNurseryLandscape Hey! Thanks for answering back!!!!...I know this is an old post!!! I do need some height right now...should I wait? Mine is newer and 4ft right now. Oops....after watching the video...I already did it!!!....Did I screw it all up??? Forever??? I want it bushy!!! and tall@!!! HELP!!!!

Michael - great question. There isn't really a need to remove the old mulch (if not using fabric), unless it is building up too high against your plants, it is building up so much that it is spilling over into your yard, or for another aesthetic reason. Because the mulch decomposes, this could take multiple mulch applications and many years.

Danny - this is primarily done to regulate the growth of the plant - either to slow it down altogether or to selectively prune some sections more than others

yeah this vid must get a lot of views between oct and nov! :)

thank you

Rosinah - thank you! If you support local businesses, many garden centers will probably sell the tree guards. Otherwise, you can purchase them online.

Ann - this is difficult to say, without seeing your pine and the location it is planted and without knowing what your objectives are. If you want to control the leader's growth, then yes, please feel free to candle it.

@@VanZeelandNurseryLandscape Thank you for your reply. It’s about 8 foot and seems more leggy than other specimens that I’ve seen so we’re hoping the candle trimming will make it more bushy.

@@annmeigs1775 - that would be a great reason to candle it. We wish the best for you and your pine!

Thank you for the suggestion. We redefine the bed edge when we remulch the bed.

Laura - I think one could avoid painting their hose if they were careful

@@dlindens ...famous last words...LOL

@@laurastone6578 LOL. I guess that's a good reason to hire a professional :)

thank you Mark - our business is in a village called Little Chute, which is filled with Van's, Vander's, Vanden's, Van de's, etc.

If it is only growing in your compost, I wouldn't be concerned

great - we're glad we were able to help!

great - glad we could help!

World Peace - sorry to hear about your rose. We would love to know how well that product works - please let us know!

Sorry Carolyn if Joe is muffled. We continue to get better at our videos and video editting

CLOSED CAPTION WORKS!

I could hear perfectly and the information was exactly what I needed to know. Thanks!

You mean “mulch appreciated”

dollyandsandy - Thanks for the positive feedback. Candling offers you the opportunity to control the plant’s rate of growth in a way that virtually looks un-pruned/trimmed and it requires no tools if timed right. We think that pines are the easiest conifer to manage when it comes to size. There is a wide range when it comes to growth rate so when you have a plant that is growing too fast (or a topiary/cloud/hindu pan pine that you want to hold its shape)…..candle it more significantly. Some pines may produce up to 15” of new candle growth a season but you could effectively limit that to 1-2” by removing 95% of the candle length. We have maintained specimens for over a decade in positions that they would have easily outgrown and are truly what we would label “living sculptures." Happy candling!

@@VanZeelandNurseryLandscape Great information. Thank you again.

than you Clayton!

Shawn - tx for the feedback. We've had an interesting and busy spring, but as soon as things slow down, we'll be sure to publish more!

@@VanZeelandNurseryLandscape When are the next ones. I relate to Joe's house. Thanks.

@@bebekanter6640 We are glad that you enjoy the videos! We've had a very busy year, but we'll be sure to release something soon.

Debbie - it's tough to be specific, because WA state spans a huge range of hardiness zones and we don't know your soil type, but we'll try :) Transplanting would likely be easier on the plants if you can wait until fall, when the plants are about to enter dormancy. If you do need to transplant now, be sure to dig out a large enough root ball. As you point out, watering will also be critical after the transplant. In general, longer, slow soaks will be more effective, than quick waterings. The water should come out of your hose at a slow stream that is about the size of your pinky finger. Without seeing how large your plants are, you might need to soak each one 10-30 minutes each time. Hydrangeas in particular will need regular watering until they root out in the new location. Frequency will depend upon how hot of an area you live in, but your hydrangeas' leaves will droop if the plants are thirsty. Locally, our peonies are about 6-12" tall right now. If your peonies are further along, you might want to wait until they are done blooming. We hope this helps and we wish you the best success!

Luz - the fabric cloth generally isn't needed when using a woody mulch. An appropriate amount of woody mulch forms a natural weed barrier. As that mulch breaks down, it composts into wonderful food for your plants. We do use a fabric cloth when we use stone instead of mulch.

Van Zeeland Nursery & Landscape thanks for you advice

Glad you enjoyed the video. Good luck with your transplant!