Same issue that I have a Westinghouse

I am hearing some crazy sounds and I swore I saw arching jumping out from the breaker. is my house going to burn down or am I good?

ha ha

I have a similar problem, I wanted to add a 50 amp breaker switch to the panel when i pulled off the cover i saw that the place fro that switch had corotion and evidence of melted plastic between both contacts, I tried to put the new breaker in to see if it would work and couldn't mount it fully so I decided to stop and get further assistance. too dangerous.

I had this happen to my Challenger panel bus bar for a two pole 50 amp breaker for my AC and Heater circuit. The HVAC guy pulled the burnt breaker and cleaned the bus bar with a wire brush and sandpaper. However it happened again so I moved a double pole breaker below it to the bottom and opposite side and then moved it down to an I damaged space and used a new breaker. Now the damaged position is not being used.

This is common for these BR panels. They are the worst modern panel you can buy

Good info, I have a 03 SLK230 kompressor, so far I have no rattles or sounds anywhere, it’s very quite, the only sound is the supercharger when it kicks in, I know a guy with one of these cars, he hits potholes, railroad tracks fast, curbs the tires all the time, basically drives like a crazy person and he has squeaks, rattles and all kinds of sounds from his SLK. These are good cars, if they are taken care of. But our cities don’t take care of our roads as they should and that’s a big problem. So these videos are helpful for some.

how has your repair doing? How is the SeaEagle doing? I have one that I must have gotten to hot and is leaking in the seam in 2 locations. Thanks

I just discovered a similar issue with my eaton dual 40 amp breaker, it looks like I will need replace the box too.

Buddy they saw you coming... all you had to do was go down to your local electrical supply store and get the buss bar for that model panel box and swap it out. I had the EXACT same problem the burning plastic smell, arcing etc. did the job today, well the good Lord blessed me with a gentleman that happened to have removed the same box from another job and used the buss bar from that box Thank you Jesus! otherwise I would have had to buy a new box and or possibly upgrade to a newer more expensive box.

Those Breaker boxes suck i would never use them, they malfunction all the time know for this, very poor engineering, i would only use ITE which is now Siemens, in 1983, Siemens bought out ITE.. so Siemens boxes are awesome you will never have a problem with them, not only that they are rated the safest Circuit breaker panels anywhere.. I have never seen an ITE / Siemens Box Do this, not saying it hasn't happen but i never seen it..

I have the 4040CT version. It sizzles and pops but ONLY when there is a large load in the garage. The garage has a subpanel, but nothing happens there. I changed the breaker that sends power to the garage subpanel, but it didn't fix the issue. Going to take all the breakers of one by one. The popping sounds are louder on the outside of the panel between the plywood its mounted on and the panel, but the sizzling on the inside is hard to pinpoint.

Back in 1992, I installed a Siemens #G3040MB1200, Interior 200a - 40 circuit, all 110v 12g copper w/20a brkrs and 220v w/typical demand service for A/C, H2O Heater, Motors etc of 20a-60a. The panel spontaneously started arcing stabs on my dbl pole brkrs (dps). Three years ago I just happened to be next to the panel box when a big pump motor started and I heard the arcing. I tripped it off and snatched it out before any damage was done to busbar. Now, suddenly in the past 3 days it has consumed 3 more breakers- a 20asp, a 30adp and a 60adp. It's all 30 years old, when I rebuilt after Andrew hit in '92. I believe the stabs' tension has waned from age and FP&L's abuse (multiple brownouts, momentary outs and many annual extended outages) that caused the problem. I'm putting in all new guts inside the box and new breakers. I'm a retired heavy industrial/infrastructure contractor and thought breakers were forever. But after this experience and reading many articles on the i/n, I believe you need to change your breakers after so many years. Had I replaced them all, after that 1st one went 3 years ago, I would've only had to do the breakers- a couple hour job. Now, it'll take best part of the day.

Same problem

If these two suggestions don't fix the problem (particularly in older SLKs than this one), then the rubber seals may have hardened over time, and are no longer pliable. For this, there are two different products available (both German developed) "Gummi Plege" and "Krytox". Liqui-Moly are actually now licenced to sell Gummi Plege (translates from German to English as "Rubber Care") in the US, Canada and UK. You can pick it up on Amazon, etc for a few dollars / pounds. Both are so easy to apply; simply rub over all rubber areas around the roof. 100% cured my rattles.

Ive got one like that... Yup.. built in Mobile home built 1986.

Did you ever manage to fix it?

Do the service lugs attach to the side of the mail breaker?

I had the exact same problem. However mine was with what’s called a space saver breaker. My air handler was tied into the 2 30amp breakers in the middle and had 2 15amp running my bedroom circuit and other circuit on the ends. I’m the original owner and bought the house new. We’ve been in it 20 years and suddenly our bedroom lights would flicker occasionally and I noticed it would happen when the air handler came on. Upon inspecting the issue I found the same thing you did. I had extra spaces so ordered a new breaker and was gonna move the breaker down. When I went to remove the wires from the breaker, I found the electrician had missed the wire. The wire was wedged between the breaker tie down screw and the breakers plastic barely making contact. That additional resistance over 20 years eventually caused the breaker to melt the tab.

Very expensive to change a breaker panel

Thank you! My android phone playing up online offline for months... It doing my head in 💯🙏🏾😜👍🏾 you've save my bacon 🤗

A simple D&R... really? There's a tutorial for a D&R... okay some people are not tech savvy... I guess I just didn't know by how much...

I am having the exact problem with my exact breaker box

I'm replacing one in a few hours

Ours is made by Palmer Electric

My wife heard our box go boom boom she said and the we smelled plastic as well the I went and saw that the box had burn marks on the top of it.

I am here because I had a similar problem 60 amp ganged breaker for AC..... My dual AC units both stopped working at the same time? Hummm. I figured it was A POWER ISSUE. Since the recirculation fan was running but outside the condenser fan was not, I took the cover off the (cutler-hammer owned by Eaton) breaker box. One of the two phases to AC was dead. I looked at the main breaker box and power. One of the breaker switches (all cutler-hammer owned by Eaton) had something wet on it? I took the cover off and breaker out. It was a HOROR story. It was burned. One of the two ganged 60 amp breakers was burned. The 20 amp on the other side, on the same bus bar tab was also melted. Both AC were working drawing max current all day. Some corrosion on that tab must have made it get hot and hotter until the melt down happened. The 20 amp breaker was still powering it's circuit until I took it out and it fell apart. The CB contact in both cases was still on the tab but separated from the CB. I wrote *Eaton* and called and was expecting a reply by email or phone. Never came. What I guess is the DESIGN of these home boxes a 50-60 amp breaker is max. The breaker to bus bar contact is not great and can over heat without tripping. This gets hotter and hotter and the breaker melts until it physically melts the connection in side and then breaks the circuit (but the breaker mechanism does not trip). It may be a good idea after 10-15 years to pull all the breakers and clean all the bus bar and breaker contacts (at least on the above 20-30 amp ones. I bought *Siemens* brand breakers (replaced 7 of them. 1 was the unit that failed completely, 1 badly damaged which shared same tab on other side. Because one of the adjacent CB's was a gang of 2 and had head damage, and and 2 more that had damage). I cleaned all the tabs and installed the new CB's. The Seimmens CB's look better than the original Cutler-Hammer CB's. Still the contact resistance due to small area and increased resistance due to corrosion over time, and trying to get 60 amps through it is marginal. if the breaker is not fully seated it is a concern. I have gone out with both AC units running with an IR temp gun and it all seems to run cool. I think if both units start at the same time and there is a surge at the same time, it may be a cause for it to be near overload. That could cause a arc maybe and maybe poor connection after as the spark has burned the contact? I am going to pull this dual 60AMP breaker and have a look at the contacts and see if I see any issues. This was really concerning. However the box did it's job and there was no fire.

how can i go on play store if it’s offline?

To Red Berry...get an electrician, stat. Suggest you remove the breaker entirely ..you won't have power on the circuit, but you won't risk setting a fire in the box. If you must have power, throw off the main breaker to the entire panel (get a flashlight first), remove the problem breaker, inspect it, sand inside the contacts, and replace very firmly, then turn main breaker back on and see what you have happening. This can be a very dangerous electrical situation and safety is #1. Get the electrician!

I have a square D 15amp breaker that is sizzling and it’s connected to my living room , bathroom , and master bedroom ceiling lights plus the receptacles in my bathroom and bedroom are also connected to this 15amp squareD breaker ... I replaced it not 3 months ago and it appeared to be fixed but the other night the problem started again and it’s probably my own fault it failed because it was kinda tricky to get it to fit in such a snug place but I’m open to all help and advice I can get to fix this myself if possible because I’m not working and electricians are very expensive ... Right now the breaker is off and I’m just dealing with no lights in those areas ... please help !!! Thanks !!! GOD BLESS !!!

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you,, I have been trying to fix this issue for a week, and I have watched a least 10 KZbin videos and none of them were of any help. God Bless You because I was one video away from smashing the phone on the wall.

Change box also make sure you balance your load

Ac breaker Same problem

Looks like a Siemens breaker in a CH panel. Issue is wrong breaker for the panel not the panel its self.

Wow thank you my phone work again

I am having that problem right now. Which is why I am watching this. I have changed my breaker and it still sizzles. Tomorrow I will attempt to put 1 more new breaker in in hopes that it us the breaker just being bad. The breaker has half of 4 rooms on it. To me that seems like a whole lot.

VERY NICE THANK MEN

I M thinking on jumping into a 2009 SLK 350 . What are your opinion on reliability . In the past I have owned a 911T a 923s and a 89 Carrera. I would love to get back into one of them but the prices has skyrocketed far beyond my finances. Many . Bob

This did nothing to fix the rattles and squeaks in the boot of my car. I have tried everything I can think of. Have even removed the large plastic boot divider as I was convinced this was the culprit No, the rattles are still there. Had enough of this car now.

Yes my did the same. It's a Westinghouse breaker box in my double wide.

I have the exact same panel & mine is doing the same thing on the exact same spot.

I have a 20+ year old I.T.E. brand 200 amp panel in my cabin. It's located in my bedroom. I was walking through the room after I started my coffee maker when I suddenly heard arching and popping sounds coming from inside it. Pretty scary. I called an electrician and he came over and took off the cover and had me started the coffee again. He couldn't believe it and pulled the breaker and found a Square D 20 amp breaker that fit into the panel. The old breaker showed burn marks on it and smelled. He said I got it before it damaged the panel. Glad I found your video, if I had seen it before calling the electrician I would've fixed it myself and saved myself a $150 service call.

Eaton was not truthful. That is very common with those panels

This exact thing happened to my Siemens box (produced around 1995). It happened on the main 100 amp breaker at the top.

My Challenger panel ( circa 1989) with an identical bus and breaker clip joint design had exactly the same problem in a 20-amp circuit in 2009. It recurred after replacing degraded breakers 3 times. In 2016, I rerouted the service from that corroded bus (location 13 ) to an intact location that was not previously used at location 22. This has worked well for three years. No heat. No sparking. No trips. But I am now wary. Three houses nearby (built in a 1989 development) had similar failures and had the distribution panels replaced for $2000 - $4000.. I am not an electrician...

I've experienced a similar problem with the breaker box in an early 90's model mobile home, the burnt bar was also on one of the 220 volt breakers as you experienced, however according to the label my box was manufactured by Siemens not Westinghouse, but the box looks identical inside and out, which has lead me to question whether or not these were being mass manufacturered by a Chinese company then being sold to Americans companies that were just labeling them under their name for sale in the United States as they do today.

a comment with this video

Or... You could just restart your phone... 🤷🏾‍♂️

NOT WORKING...

.Hi! I have the sea eagle 330 and would like to ask you something. You see, i discovered just recently that it has a small puncture very very close to the blue hard plastic handle(where the rope passes into). Is there any way i cam remove the blue hard plastic handle and if so, how? I want to remove it so that i can patch the hole properly. Thanks for you answer buddy