Now the weak points are all the staple penetrations?

Yes, moisture from inside the house can escape using vapor dry sheets, particularly if they are "smart" vapor retarders. These sheets adjust their permeability based on ambient humidity levels. At low humidity, they act as vapor barriers, but at high humidity, they become more permeable, allowing moisture to escape. This dynamic behavior helps manage moisture effectively, preventing buildup and potential mold issues while maintaining energy efficiency and structural integrity

1:30 This isn't true and is a common misconception. Mini-splits are not for one room only. A mini split can have a plenum and several outlets in multiple rooms like any conventional heat pump.

Always love the information you guys provide. Maybe tone down the sound effects for the animations, they're pretty obnoxious.

There's no way the wall in this video is stronger, cheaper, or lighter than two 2x4 light gauge steel walls with the same R-value.

I see other videos where they have double wall construction and use 2x6 on both walls but that doesn't make any sense. The inside 2x4 exterior wall can be located at any distance needed for any insulation thickness. Double 2x6 walls are wasted money.

Plan to do this to my crummy 90s house. It's half brick, half siding so we will cover up the brick to keep it simple. Whole house will be metal siding and roofing for fire resistance.

I want to add a balcony to my second story. Can I sister new cantilevered joists to my existing 2x8 floor joists? How far out can I go?

hey hey, my 1962 home's sheathing sits on top of the sill plate making it exactly flush with the foundation wall (1962 build, no overhang) would I seal the seam between the sill and the sheathing and squeegee sealant over the exposed sill?

I have a 1944 cape cod in Seattle with 2x4 walls and 8:12 rafters. The attic is Finished & Conditioned living space with knee walls and some blown in insulation (~12" on the knee wall floors and "maybe" 3.5 blown in between the rafters sealed in with rigid blocking). Seattle code suggests R38 for roofs. I need a new roof this summer, and want to add insulation on TOP of the deck. Does this process seem reasonable for an experienced DIY with retired pro roofer help? 1) tear off shingles & paper, remove gutters & uppermost siding. 2) Add peel and stick membrane to the sheathing. Add tape down to the exterior wall membrane. 3) Add 2 layers of offset rigid foam, tape upped layer 4) Lay 2x4s on the flat every 16" above rafters, for ventilation and eves. Secure with long Headloc (or Deck Screws?). 5) Lay new sheathing, membrane, and shingles (or metal). 6) Build out eves/soffits with ladder framing attached to house, add bug barrier, fascia, ventilate at each rafter bay, re-attach siding and gutters. What would the ideal rigid layers look like? Unfaced 4" below and faced 2" above would be R33. There's plenty in the rafters joists and knee walls to get to R38.

Overbuild...leads to overcost

exactly what I needed, thank you.

in case there's ever any snow in Minneapolis 😂

If I may ask, what software did you use to animate, and devices stack?

Can't believe the comments here.. People think this is some kind of voodoo magic.. If you can't comprehend this then you should go back to your shift at Starbucks and leave the work to the men

What sill seal gasket is that?!?

How do you intake the rainguard strip?

Your using a Swanson square, on the hip scale it shows under 20 degrees, my Mr Pen shows about 22 degrees, I may need to upgrade my speed square.

Construction Calculator. 😢

Do I need to layer a vapour barrier outside face of the insulation that cover the foundation?

Fantastic video man. Thanks for doing that

Thanks so much for this video! What nailer and nail length are you using? Do you have any problems with over/under drive given that you need to get thru zip+original sheathing+into studs?

i my self enjoy films on the topic of carpentry it is the love of life , the most important art that all should know , i am taking a course and alreaady have two graduates and still going for more, ProTradeCraft really knows what they are showing keep up the good work an i subscribed cool channel.

I hope to one of these off ebay next month to add to my tool collection and to CT my pallet wood to size

You need to be careful to not have vapor impermeable insulation on either side of the batt insulation. You don't want to trap moisture in there. In this scenario, it should be able to dry through the rim. I would recommend skipping the interior rigid insulation against the floor.

Love this

Yes, wondering this, myself. Why not treat it like a section of horizontal wall?

Fun! What do we do after breakfast?

Need more simple explanations like this. They're really helpful for small DIY renovations.

The foam sandwich might seal in moisture that gets in the area. Unless the joists and blocking are themselves not a solid air barrier, in which case all that foam patchwork in each cavity and spray foam gunning isn't really doing any good. More generally, why not treat that area like a horizontal variant of a wall? . Insulate it like a wall, e.g. with batts . Sheath the bottom-side . Tape the seams, including any corner connections to wall sheathing, with a good flashing tape like ZIP. . Seal the sheathing / foundation connection however the sheathing/foundation is being sealed elsewhere, e.g. Siga Fentrim tape is a good option as it sticks very well to concrete.

👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

measure in 5 1/2 inches for 2x6 walls. measure the length of the walls and square up the floor before you chalk out your lines. I like to lay out all my interior walls plus mark out doors and windows. This makes it easy to transfer on to plates without checking the plans plus it makes it easy to mark out overlap plates

Great, informative video!

I am planning on adding an 7 inch overhang (final depth after siding will be 5 inches) to an existing structure that had no overhang. Is it ok to attach the 7” ladder block directly to i assume the front rafter and not have to notch at all? My contractor wants to build it out stacking 4 rafters nailed and screwed into eachother without the ladder technique but i thought that seemed unnecessarily heavy and not as strong. Thoughts? Also, since its only 7”, would the sheathing still need to extend inward such as in ur animation or would smaller pieces added just on the new ladder block suffice. Thx

Lol....and Americans still build houses like monkeys....lol

Wonderful

How about with Zip system sheathing and Comfortboard 80 exterior?

Thanks. all the measurements worked for me.

I love your videos, they're live saving, also it will be very helpful if you could just make a video on how to install floor joist in the second floor where there is no wall in the first floor and it's a wide open floor..! Once again thank you..!

who determined the layout along the wall? The holy Spirit?

Who set the ridge height? God?

I found the clarity of this production valuable

I’m a siding contractor in Seattle and I’ve always thought this is the way a house should be built but I can only imagine the expense accrued for this igloo cooler type home.

what is your spacing on the screws and what about gable overhangs

Would it be the same for a truss roof?

Game changer!

Nice thought process behind this.

jake🎉

Wonder if the average person building their own house can afford these?

Great explanation+presentation! Thank you for sharing! Well done mate 🙏🏻