Thanks yeah the wind noise screwed up my audio and I couldn’t go back out there to re-film. Dubbed it over and didn’t do a great job 😬

Yeah a diffusion filter is another one that you can use! I'd usually not recommend them because they harm image quality rather than help it, but if you're going after the diffuse effect, go for it. There are others like prism filters and various special effect filters that I would say the same thing about.

You really can’t, unfortunately. By finding subjects that are as far away as possible, and by using a wide-angle lens, you will maximize your depth of field. So, Milky Way or distant cityscape photographers can actually get pretty good depth of field at say f/2.8. But there is simply no way to do exactly what you want. Use a tripod and stop down the aperture instead!

@@PhotographyLifeChannel thank you for your reply, appreciated.

Yes! This has been a crazy year so I can't promise when it will happen, but the next video on our channel will be the giveaway :)

​@@PhotographyLifeChannelFantastic- would love to call one of those prints my own! Looking forward to it!

Thank you for saying so! I really appreciate it.

Generally none would be needed.

Yes! I routinely shoot at even f/22 on medium format. Depending on the exact medium format dimensions, it’s equivalent to anything from f/11 to f/16 on full frame.

@@PhotographyLifeChannel yeah I've never tried that high. I've always been around that F-14 F-16 and to be honest I don't mind the mountains way in the background. Save for a wide angle shot to be a little bit soft. That's how the human eye season I try and shoot human eye Photography not stacked HDR look, which I cannot stand

It doesn’t matter for image quality, so I recommend averaging the fully unprocessed images into a TIFF as step one, so that you don’t bake any of your edits into the TIFF file.

Generally, the “middle” f-numbers like f/5.6-8 will have better sharpness, and the farther away you go in either direction, the more image quality you give up. But very often, you will still need to shoot at different apertures to gather more light or get more (or less) depth of field. You’ll know which one to use based on practice - for example, does this scene need so much depth of field that you have to be at f/16? Or are you safe at f/8? Take a photo both ways and see which one is sharper, then learn from it when you look at them back on your computer.

Those are unfortunately features of any wide-angle lens - it’s not the lens’s fault, but rather, how close your subject is to the camera with a very wide focal length. You’ll see the same thing with any 20mm lens on the Nikon Z8. It will be worse at 14mm but better at 30mm. As for vignetting, just turn the in-camera corrections to “high” and you’ll never see it again.

That’s a good approach that can also apply for Milky Way photography!