You got it, thanks for the super like!

Thank you!

The RF 85mm f/2 Macro is a great lens for close-up photography, but note that its maximum magnification is 1:2 rather than 1:1. On a full-frame camera, this means you could fill the frame with something that’s about 72mm (2.8 inches) wide, rather than something that’s 36mm (1.4 inches) wide. So just make sure that’s enough for your work. You could also use extension tubes or other methods to get up to 1:1 magnification if necessary, but it would add some cost.

I live for comments like this, thanks!!

Hi Nagesh, it doesn’t matter which one you set - whether on the camera or on the lens (or both!) switching to M will get you to manual focus. As for VR, I leave it on. It helps a little to stabilize the viewfinder even at extreme magnifications. And there’s no harm in doing so. I hope this helps!

The diagonal of 8x10 film is about 313mm, and the diagonal of full-frame sensors is about 43mm. So the crop factor between them is about 7.3. An f-number of 64 divided by 7.3 gives you an f-number of 8.8. I guess saying f/9 in the video would have been more accurate, but either way, that’s how you get the same depth of field for a given composition on full-frame versus 8x10.

Thank you, Al!

Yes! Nikon added that feature after this video was published. I encourage people to enable it.

Glad you liked it, thanks!!

You’re very welcome!

Fair point! I think this is my most music-heavy video and it’s because my voice audio track had some ugly background noises.

Thank you!

I understand why you’re confused! Lightroom doesn’t work how you think. It’s not like the file manager on your hard drive. In Lightroom, all your photos are basically edited - there’s no separate edited/unedited versions. You can create virtual copies if you want to have different variations of the same photo. But the question that you’re asking is unanswerable because that’s not how Lightroom works. (When you want any of your edits to appear outside of Lightroom, you need to right click > Export. This is something you will only do rarely, like when you’re about to publish the edited image online or send it to a print lab.)

Do you have Lightroom Classic? The word “Library” is at the top right of the screen written pretty large, you can’t miss it. Click that and you’re in the Library.

@@PhotographyLifeChannel Lightroom 7.2. Is that Classic?

@lymanmedeiros903 Yeah - do you not see it on your screen? You can also press the “g” key on your keyboard at any time to see the grid view of your photos in the Library module.

@@PhotographyLifeChannel Yes I do have Grid. So in 7.2 , what was Library is now Grid? Ok Im good. Thank you for your help. Much appreciated.

Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it.

That means a lot to hear, thank you so much! Sorry to have been away for so long! This year will still be light on the KZbin videos because I’ve had to take over running the PL website, but I’m working on more as we speak.

It won’t really make any difference!

I'm so glad it was helpful!

Thank you for the kind words! Regarding focus stacking, I try very hard to avoid it, because it’s easy to get annoying artifacts in the photo, with no good way to avoid it. If I must focus stack, I will only take 2-3 photos at the most, all at f/11 or f/16. My goal isn’t to use it to maximize detail but to deal with the occasional scene whose depth of field cannot otherwise be captured sufficiently. Regarding heat shimmer, it’s no issue except when shooting telephoto landscapes - 200mm at least, and usually 400mm or longer. I rarely, if ever, think about it as a landscape photographer. (Except in geothermal areas like Yellowstone or volcanic landscapes where there are pockets of superheated, super distorted air!) In any case, there is zero that the photographer can do about extreme heat shimmer anyway, except come back on another day.