He’s still making them. I’ll bet he’s out fishing. Give him a couple days…if you don’t hear please let me know.

I have the 'old' style Clemens/Renzetti type rails. Mine is a homemade job...detached my thread carriage and mounted it permanently behind the lathe bed then mounted that on a 'rail' of oak and put slick tape on my benchtop. But you don't have to mess with all that - Renzetti now makes a slick plate for just this purpose: www.rdflyfishing.com/collections/new-products/products/lathe-slide-carriage All you have to do is buy this thing and you are all set!

That would work great. I would just forget to remove them!

Hard to say without seeing a photo. The first coat often looks a bit rough. MOST OF THE TIME...people use too much epoxy. Also make sure the rod is dead level when you are applying the epoxy and while the rod is drying.

Hello Mr. Burrows - so with underwraps I personally like to finish the underwraps first and then let that cure...then I wrap my guides on. So I treat my underwraps like butt wraps and apply the finish to them at 200 RPM on a Flex Coat motor with a brush. Then once that has cured I wrap the guides on and apply the finish to the guide wraps with the spatula. Make sense?

Half hitches are used for LOTS of things. When you test these knots to failure, they always fail either due to the ring of thw swivel cutting through the line or more often the line cutting itstelf where it crosses itself in a tight turn. This is regardless of knot and regardless of how strong they load prior to failure. It's just mechanically how they fail. In this case, the half hitches allow the knot to move and stretch. The three times through the ring - coupled with a ring that is at least half the diameter of the fluoro - allow stretch and movement and distribute the load across a much longer section of leader rather than a single point. It is precisely because neither the half hitches nor the manner of the line going through the eye force the load into a single point that the knot is so strong and has so much 'stretch'. Whether you understand it or not, this knot is likely much stronger than what you are using. Don't believe me? Cut an 8 foot length of leader material. (You might want to use 20# or 30# for this test.) Tie your typical knot (whatever you use today) to a swivel on one end and then tie this knot to a swivel on the other end. Attached a jig with no hooks to each end with heavy duty split rings. Now pull it until one of the knots break. Enough said.

@masteringrodbuilding Allowing the fluoro to distribute the load across a longer section of leader rather than a single point makes sense. I would be using braid main line to a swivel though. I use either a palomar, improved trilene or an improved trilene with doubled line with a palomar finish around the swivel. But pulling on them myself would be unscientific. I'd like to see all the knots along with the TN on a digital pull system like knot wars use to do. Maybe you could do a video on knots vs the TN like that. Thanks for the video though. I'll try and find a break test.

@@birdbig1 we are on the same page. The problem is the equipment...roughly $10K to get started with decent equipment you can trust that doesn't wear out. Wore out my first two homebrew sets already. You are exactly right...the test is unscientific. But this knot will win every single time and that still tells you something practical. ONE IMPORTANT NOTE: This knot is specifically intended for monofilament and fluorocarbon lines and leaders. It is NOT a strong knot for braid. Just FYI.

When you say multiple bands do you mean like bands of two or three different colors? Or what are you looking to see specifically? Thanks!

Maybe having black as the main color, but starting with a white band of 5-6 wraps. Then going to black, then having another white band right before the wrap ends. The one strand is really cool, but showing how to make larger bands would be very helpful. I don’t think your method in the video would apply to larger bands? Thanks and keep up the good work 👍

I didn’t - that’s a Cobalt Blue blank from Batson Enterprises. You can get them from The Rod Room, GetBit Outdoors, All Around Fishing, etc.

Neither the AG Chain Knot nor the TN Knot is intended for use with braid - only mono and (ideally) fluorocarbon. And both knots tend to unravel in braid (in addition to being weak.) There are much stronger knots for braid to swivel in my experience. I'd recommend the improved Uni Knot for this application personally. Second place would be a San Diego Jam Knot. I hope this helps!

Thanks for your help ! I will learn the improved uni knot.

It depends on the design of the guide and really has more to do with the angle or slope of the frame and ring than anything else. Most Fuji double foot guides - like KWs, LKWs, etc. - are designed to be oriented with the double foot towards the reel. You will note with these guides - which are the only true tangle-free guides in the world - that BOTH the frame and the guide rings are sloped. This is a patented, Trademarked feature nobody else has. So, in order to achieve maximum performance you must orient them the correct way - which is double foot towards rod butt/reel. Other guides - like the Fuji RV reverse stripping guides - are specifically designed for the single foot side to be oriented towards the reel. These are referred to as Reverse Stripping Guides for that reason. Any older Fuji double foot guides with rings at 90 degrees to the blank - such as MN guides, LC guides, etc. - can be oriented whichever way you like but are traditionally oriented with the double foot side facing the reel. Often on Popping/Stickbaiting rods and Vertical Jigging rods the first guide up from the reel will be reversed with the single foot towards the reel and the remainder of the guide train is oriented 'traditionally' with the double foot side towards the reel. FYI, this is done for looks and doesn't lead to any measurable or discernable difference in performance. Do it however you like. Just about every other ceramic ring guide in the world is a Fuji knock off or copy. Most - but not all - have rings 90 degrees to the blank. So you can essentially mount these whichever way you want. If in doubt, contact the manufacturer and follow their advice. I hope this helps.

The EZ thread is made of the same polyester material Fuji UltraPoly thread is made of...it is simply in a continuous linear filament rather than spun, corded and woven. So you can use any varnish, acrylic, epoxy, urethane etc. that you would use on Fuji UltraPoly thread and it will work with EZ thread. Hope this helps...Cheers!

@@masteringrodbuilding Fantastic, thank you so much for your kind reply, that's exactly what I needed to know - Bravo 👏👏

Yes! He is! And he's been trying to get you but no luck. Try him at [email protected]

@@masteringrodbuilding grabbed a set, on its way here. Thnks

I use a Renzetti vise. That one is specifically a vise they call the Saltwater Traveler. In my experience Renzetti makes the very best vises (and rod lathes) in the world. www.renzetti.com/saltwater-traveler/

It is available now anywhere you get Fuji products.

Thanks for watching! Please like and subscribe. I use Toro Tamer 20# hollow core braid in white. You can use other stuff but this stuff is PERFECT and lasts forever. You can find it here and a 25 meter spool is a lifetime supply: charkbait.com/collections/hollow-braid/products/toro-tamer-hollow-core

Thanks for the info

I don’t see why not. While most opt to use a full set, it’s a very interesting idea. If you try it let us know how you make out.

That’s awesome! Thanks for watching and let me know what other topics you’d like to see.

So...I think they may have gone out of business. Any tack free rigid UV cure resin will do. Both the Loon and the Solarez work very well: www.flyfishfood.com/collections/uv-resin-adhesives?pf_t_type=UV%20Resin%20Kits

Thank you.

Hello Joey - thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe! The tool I use to spread epoxy is a spatula...if you search the channel you'll find a detailed video on how to make one. The blue track is just universal T-track...I think I got mine from Rockler Woodworking: www.rockler.com/universal-t-track-universal-t-track?country=US&sid=V91040&promo=shopping&PL&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw48-vBhBbEiwAzqrZVLSCsk3jLvjXPFAVv7CHjhqk0ux5-6eBLZOd3VQEe_Mijw_C7-jhLhoC7x4QAvD_BwE