How to Apply Guide Wrap Finish the FCR Way

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After many requests I am finally producing a series of instructional rod building videos focused on how I apply finish to guide wraps. This video will be followed in the next two weeks by two more finish videos: how to apply butt wrap finish and how to fix common finish mistakes/problems.
This is how I apply guide wrap finish to all but the most heavy duty rods. Hope this helps - let me know if you have questions. Please like and subscribe!
Gen4 Finish can be found here: www.gen4resins.com
Flex Coat products can be found here: www.flexcoat.com
Fuji Products can be found here: anglersresource.net
Hitena Threads can be found here: hitenausa.com
You can make your own finish spatula using one of these: widgetsupply.com/product/bbg4...
If you want to learn how to complete the single inlaid turns you see in these guide wraps please watch this video: • Single Inlaid Turns an...

[@robertchadwick1552]

Great tutorial. I appreciate all your explanations & good camera work showing the process.

[@mountainclimber579]

Very clear and understandable. Enough detail to really get it. This is ++ stuff. Thank you so much for sharing

[@cccbcba]

Great info, keep them coming!

[@jonramos2161]

Awesome video! Anxiously awaiting the next one!!!

[@masteringrodbuilding]

More to come!

[@pierpoint-customrodbuildin6799]

Thanks for the video Bill, much appreciated. It will be a tremendous help to those starting out on their rod building journey.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

PierPoint - Custom Rod Building & Repair thanks for watching! I appreciate the feedback.

[@claytonb6073]

Thanks for sharing. In a past life you must have been a teacher. I like the way you stressed consistency to get predictable results.

[@MrPerforations]

enjoying your videos Bill, been most helpful and helping me in techniques, thank you.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching!

[@joshgeforos2840]

Thank you Bill, another great video! Definitely going to try this method.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Awesome...thanks for watching!

[@williamcollins2232]

This guy is a true wrapper. It looks like he even WRAPPED his thumb!!! COOL

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Bwahahahaha…nailed it. Well played, sir.

[@stevefolz1824]

Exceptional video and description of your methods. I wish I’d have had this knowledge years ago. Thank you for taking your time to create it

[@masteringrodbuilding]

You are most welcome, Steve. I appreciate your watching...please like and subscribe!

[@cuivre2004]

Excellent video. I was taught using brushes to apple finish- I like the spatula idea.

[@seanmoley66]

I’m an avid fisherman but a total novice to fixing or building rods properly. I appreciate the time and effort for making this video. It was very informative. I am a member of Play Fish Hook-e in NJ. Our goal is to get disabled veterans and children fishing. It’s an important skill to be able to repair so again thank you. I look forward to one day building my own custom rod.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe!

[@randallswift4023]

Excellent instructions Bill. Looking forward to #2.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks Randall! I hope to release it next weekend...

[@randallswift4023]

@@masteringrodbuilding looking forward to it. Your instructions are the best. You have a real knack for it.

[@Stevos_HookedonRods4844]

As i've spoken of before Bill i'm new to this rod building, your information and technics are very informative & extremely helpful. It's giving me tools to use, really doing it right the first time being methodical & precise in what you do. Grateful for the mindset. ( I've always tried to be a perfectionist ) I'm building my first rod this week coming for my brothers 50th. ( i've been practicing prior) Thanks for the vids you do. Inspirational 🙏 Cheers Stevo. Australia

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching...let me know if you have questions and good luck on that build!

[@Stevos_HookedonRods4844]

@@masteringrodbuilding Hi Bill, Been a while since I touched base. The builds are going great, the build I did for my brothers 50th he hung it on the wall, said it was too good to use. That's ok I got to build a second one for him to use for a cost $. The Jon Hood thread packing tools you sent over for me ( Grateful 🙏) are an asset to my work & I use the dental spatulas as well. I'm revisiting your tuitions as a refresher. Thank you for the inspiration that you give people through your work. Appreciate it Cheers Stevo Australia

[@masteringrodbuilding]

@@Stevos_HookedonRods4844 so glad the videos are helpful...and the thread tools. That Jon Hood tool is GREAT. Cheers!

[@eldridgeburrows9570]

Thank you Bill

[@hmcustomthreads2460]

Fabulous video, Bill!! 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks Mr. Rojas!

[@randallswift4023]

@@masteringrodbuilding thats not mr rojas, thats homie

[@JDGeorge1951]

Bill...I have been building rods since 1974. I am new to your channel and I can't begin to tell you how you have broadened my horizons in thread wrap construction. I learned back in the day with Dale Clemens and once you are in a rut, it is an easy place to stay, unless you make an intentional effort to learn new techniques. I have a great deal of catching up to do. I appreciate your attention to detail. Thank you for being willing to share your techniques with others.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Hello George - thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe! So glad the videos are helpful. I appreciate the feedback. Let me know if there are other topics you'd like to see covered. Thanks!

[@TheFishingHobby]

Different than how I do mine, but it looks effective 👍 Good video! Very thorough in your explanation of how, when and why you do the things you do.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

I think it may be different than most LOL. Definitely more than one way to get a finish that makes you happy. I'll bet it took you a long time to master whatever technique you use so that you can get consistent results. And that is what I think is valuable to new builders - work hard at it and figure out what works for you. Then don't change!

[@TheFishingHobby]

@@masteringrodbuilding that's right! I took bits and pieces from different ways I saw it done and changed a few things and ended up with how I do it now. Definitely no right way to do it other than what works best for you. Practice is the key for sure!

[@ramoutdoors6415]

That was an excellant tutorial for this rookie rod builder!! Thanks fer takin the time to do this. I took all this in very well:) Richard from Kansas;)

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching, Richard. Please like and subscribe!

[@ramoutdoors6415]

@@masteringrodbuilding I did like and subbed a month ago:)

[@masteringrodbuilding]

@@ramoutdoors6415 Oh gosh - okay. Thanks man!

[@ramoutdoors6415]

@@masteringrodbuilding I also have been saving ur vids in a rod building playlist on my channel:) Richard from Kansas🎣

[@jimjones6657]

Just starting out in building. Just ordered my supplies for my own rods to build. This was a excellent video on finishing. I noticed that this is just a training blank because your guides aren't lined up. This is irrelevant to this video. I have 1 important question regarding building. When mounting guides on the blank. Do the guides go on the opposite side of the spline?

[@jimmycrainer25]

Really nice video...

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks Jimmy - please like and subscribe!

[@garymiller-ed4bn]

I like it. it is great looking

[@YL-mc9oz]

I really enjoy watching your videos, you are very professional and work very very nicely (Tiger is amazing) - waiting for the next video, thank you for the investment !!!

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching. Funny you should mention that Tiger. For what it is worth - and to give people a sense of reality - that specific tiger took three tries at the overwrap. I pulled off two that I didn't like before the third over wrap turned out killer. So...it all probably looks easy watching things on video after it's been edited. But most of getting the result you want is practice practice practice. Dose of reality...hope this helps!

[@YL-mc9oz]

@@masteringrodbuilding Your insistence on continuing until a beautiful result in Tiger has indeed paid off

[@dannyp4959]

Great video! I am going to try that spatula. I never thought of using it to put the finish on. I got a bigger one that I have been using to mix the paste epoxy with after your tutorial. Working good so far. Looking forward to the next couple finish videos

[@masteringrodbuilding]

So I start with exactly that same large spatula. I shape it down so that it tapers a bit towards the tip and polish it up to a high shine. You can play around with various shapes but that seems to work best for me. I also like to dip my handles in Plasti Dip (red in this video) to make them easier to hold onto.

[@dannyp4959]

@@masteringrodbuilding Thanks Bill. I will play with it. Working on a 12wt to try and get a tarpon with next summer. Hopefully I will get to the finish in the next week or two. I love that nail polish remover bottle thing you suggested in the other epoxy video. I got one from amazon and use it all the time now.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

@@dannyp4959 So glad you like it - that thing is awesome, right? I couldn't live without mine...love it. Planning to do a video with all the tools and tips & tricks like that I've learned over the years soon. Stay tuned!

[@dannyp4959]

Falconer Custom Rods yep that thing is amazing. Looking forward to your tips video !

[@paulbeaulieu723]

You truly are a professional.Looking forward to your other vids.How many rods do you build in a year?Thanks again.Paul.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks Paul...and thanks for watching. Depends on the year really...maybe 100 this year?

[@nziniz25]

Hi Bill great explanation of how you apply finish makes a lot of sense 😉 also great to see you are using CTS blanks 😉 I've just ordered an affinity X 10' 4weight I will try your technique to finish it

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching! Please like and subscribe. Yeah…the CTS blanks are AWESOME. You will love that Affinity X…outstanding nymphing rod.

[@nziniz25]

@@masteringrodbuilding thanks for taking the time to reply, already liked and subscribed :) I look forward to any future videos

[@masteringrodbuilding]

@@nziniz25 Thanks very much - please let me know any topics you'd like to see covered.

[@rfnrgj]

Top tip for you guys....buy a box of steri wipes same as Diabetics would use before pricking....perfect size and shape plus already impregnated and individually wrapped👌

[@michaeljwagner7968]

This may have been asked as I am viewing this after it was created. Where did you get the tool you use to apply the finish instead of a brush? Great video.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe! So I made that tool...I call it a finish spatula. And you can make one too - here's how: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j3fTeoKIf8Skg7c

[@briankiddy2682]

I've been struggling with epoxy lately for some reason and was looking for tips I hadn't considered. I ran across this video, tried it on the second coat on a rod I'm working on and, wow! Game changer. Best finish I've had in a while. It was slower going than I'm used to and the epoxy was far past where I'd have chucked it and mixed up a new batch just a few days ago. I'm trying not to think about the amount of money I've dumped in the trash the last 20 years for epoxy I considered 'cooked off'. Using this method, that same epoxy is where it's just starting to be useful. Thanks for the video!

[@masteringrodbuilding]

So glad to hear it helped. Please like and subscribe…thanks!

[@paulmcdonald9074]

Thanks for video, like I've said before I'm new to rod building. I have made 4 personal rods and 3 for friends/customers that wanted something they couldn't buy off the shelf. I've not thought about applying finish with anything other than brush and this method of use tool you used surely gives you great lines. Really appreciate the advice and different ideas for applying finish thanks again. I'll be watching next week. P.S. not so long between videos

[@TheFishingHobby]

I use both, but I prefer a metal tool because they don't tend to leave as many bubbles. I think what happens sometimes with a brush is the finish can pick up air trapped between the bristles and create some bubbles as that air gets trapped in the finish. Bubbles are inevitable and you have to learn to deal with them anyway, but you don't want to add any extra ones if you can help it.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

I know...sorry for the long gap between videos. My real job and my fishing habit get in the way! I think there is a place for both brushes and spatulas. I actually use a spatula for guide finish (for all but the largest heavy duty rods, when I'll use a brush or a mix of spatula and brush) but I use a brush exclusively for butt wrap finish and finishing long, level areas. Same thing with turning by hand vs. turning under power. I apply guide finish by hand (again, for all but the largest heavy duty rods) but rotate at 200 RPM when applying butt wrap finish. The key is figuring out what works well for you and gets you the results you want...and then achieving that consistently.

[@paulmcdonald9074]

Thanks gentlemen, I'm on the east coast our flounder season just opened for first time in 2 years. So hoping to have tight line before long. First I have to help kidos with school in this crazy time. But have been fishing for some nice bass and I have to say to brings new element to fishing when you catch something on a rod that YOU made. Have couple of friends/customers that have told me that they really enjoy fishing with a rod that I made. Watching videos that Bill has produced has really helped, he is a great teacher and guy to show his personal tips and tricks. I always watch and learn cause there is no one around that I can bounce things off of. So I learn by watching and trial and error. Sometimes more errors than trials. But each rod seems to get better and easier to build. Fishing hobby I appreciate your help as well. It's all learning curve. Tight lines guys thanks for the help and tips they really help.

[@TheFishingHobby]

@@paulmcdonald9074 I think that is how most of us learned too. I still watch what everyone else is doing because you never know when you may learn something new. It's all a process! Good luck with your rod building, the kids' schooling and flounder!

[@paulmcdonald9074]

Thanks I'll need it, all on line school is crazy and well the flounder may have to wait couple more weeks. But we'll see.

[@ValcoBayrunner]

Watching from Alaska , butter at room temp in my house won't even spread on toast 🤣, I'd have to crank the furnace big time 😜

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Man...you need a space heater for sure! Everything will still work at lower temps but it extends your times quite a bit.

[@bigdfc1864]

that is a interesting technique. gonna have to screw up a few times with that one. i feel like i’ve been lied to my whole 8 month career of rod building.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching! Hey so to that point - you probably will mess up a few times. So practice! Scrap blanks and wood dowels both work great. No matter what finish technique you use you will get much better if you will practice. So don't be afraid use use up some thread and finish figuring it out.

[@adamjohnsonusa]

Awesome content love what you are doing with the videos. I noticed that you were able to reach up and slide the entire wrapping station and move the whole set up . How did you accomplish this bit of magic?? Lol

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe! Glad the content is helpful. So...I wrap on a Renzetti. I detached my thread carriage and mounted it permanently on my bench top behind my lathe. I then routed a hardwood 'rail' that I mounted my base sections onto. So, I stay stationary - with my thread carriage, my tools, my waste basket, a good light and magnifier, etc. - and I slide my lathe 4 feet to the left of me or 4 feet to the right of me as the lathe bed rides on that hardwood 'rail'. The thread carriage is also mounted into a 2' piece of T-track. So between the lathe bed sliding and the ability to move the thread carriage a foot either direction, I can wrap from one end to the other end and I never have to move. I should note that I rarely power wrap and I removed the powerhead, motor, chuck, etc. from my lathe. It is mounted on another section of lathe bed in my garage where I do my dirty work - guide grinding, grip sanding, etc. The Renzetti is the best IMO but some set up like this could probably work with other power wrappers as well. Good luck - hope this helps!

[@adamjohnsonusa]

@@masteringrodbuilding Thanks for the info, I see where this is highly effective, huge time saver, and efficient setup. I'm trying to set up my bench now I'm definitely going to try and build a very similar station. Thank you so much for the reply, I know it takes a lot of time out of your day and I really appreciate the information. I'm getting ready to retire from the military in a few months and plan on building rods for a hobby, or maybe even for some fishing money. Lol tight lines!!

[@danbarbush3687]

I love your videos because of the clarity ,and some of your information however in this one I can't agree with the use of the lighter I have tried it and I get carbon marks. I will try using the Spatula on my nest finish. thanks.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Hello Dan - thanks for watching. And for the feedback. Please like and subscribe! I have heard that complaint/concern from other builders...soot/carbon from the lighter. I have never had a single issue with it personally. In experimenting with it to try to recreate the issue, I had two learnings. First, I think the type of lighter matters. I use only Bic brand lighters (which I do NOT refill) and have zero problems. When I tried using a cheap no-name lighter at a rod building gathering I noticed it was very sooty. Not sure why? Probably the fuel. The second thing is distance between the flame and the wrap. Even with the cheap sooty lighter, I only got carbon on the wraps when I actually touched the flame to the wrap (or came very close to touching the flame to the wrap). The video is kind of tricky...some of it is overhead and you can't tell where the flame is relative to the rod/wrap. But the flame never gets closer than a few inches from the wrap. So that may be part of why I never, ever experience any soot or carbon. But in any event - we all have to find what works for us. This works for me...experiment/adapt and find whatever works for you. Hope this helps!

[@joeysams955]

Bill, my name is Joey Sams. I am interested in two things. I’ve watched some of your old videos. I’m interested in the tool that you are using to spread the epoxy and the blue track in the background that your thread holder is on.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Hello Joey - thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe! The tool I use to spread epoxy is a spatula...if you search the channel you'll find a detailed video on how to make one. The blue track is just universal T-track...I think I got mine from Rockler Woodworking: www.rockler.com/universal-t-track-universal-t-track?country=US&sid=V91040&promo=shopping&PL&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw48-vBhBbEiwAzqrZVLSCsk3jLvjXPFAVv7CHjhqk0ux5-6eBLZOd3VQEe_Mijw_C7-jhLhoC7x4QAvD_BwE

[@Tommy-Rust]

Hi Bill - thank you for the great video. On the length wide strokes, is it important to make sure to do it perfectly all around the butt wrap? I couldn’t tell from your video if you were making sure to do it consistently around the entire wrap or if you were just doing a few strokes while turning the blank (it looked like you did about 6 brushes). I wasn’t sure if the finish can self level around any area of the wrap where the stroke may have not covered.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Hey TackleTomFL - thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe! Great question - sorry it wasn’t clear. It’s not absolutely essential that you level it perfectly all around the wrap. GEN4 levels really well on it’s own . You just want to get lengthwise strokes along most of the wrap...hit more of it than you miss if that makes sense. Play around with it...it’s super easy to work with and you’ll quickly get a result you like.

[@johnpenner5543]

Do you use this same finish application technique for decorative butt wraps? I'll be trying this on my next build. Thanks for the great videos you post! Big John's Rod Repair

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching John - please like and subscribe! At risk of complicating things...I do it differently for butt wraps. I like to apply under power with a brush at 200 RPM. Here's a detailed video on how I do it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ionReZiapbGNj7c Hope that helps. Let me know if you have questions. I also have a review of the Flex Coat machine I prefer - that can be found here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/m2WvdZitZ7qLprs

[@lylefinger315]

Hi Great video At what rpm do you spin the rod after the 2nd finish coat and how long do you let it spin? Thanks

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe! Once I have applied the second coat, I rotate at 6 RPM for two hours (Flex Coat Original High Build) or 3 hours (Gen 4 high build). But you could rotate anywhere from 4 RPM to 36 RPM and be fine. I hope this helps…tight wraps!

[@dangremban9607]

Bill..another fantastic video. So you stated in the comments that you never go longer than 24 hours between coats. IF something would happen where the second coat-or third- could not be applied in that time frame, what can be done to allow that coat to then be applied? I know this is not ideal but I got called away after second coat that I'm not particularly happy with and want to correct it. Your thoughts...either for the wrap or the guides.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe! You nailed it - it's not ideal but it's not a problem. I am also forced to go more than 24 hours time to time. You will NOT see a difference in your finished product...it just may affect how much the two coats cross-link and become one matrix. You'll never know unless you peel it to repair.

[@larrycowden2271]

I like the technique and will give it a try! However I have a question based on observation of your use of a butane lighter for heat. I noticed more than once smoke arising from the flame while you were passing this over the bands. Butane is not a clean fuel. Have you had any problems with smoke chemicals contaminating your finish?

[@masteringrodbuilding]

So…I have gotten this question before. You are right that Butane is sooty. But I’ve never had a single problem as long as the flame never touches the wrap. I use a standard garden variety BIC lighter I buy in bulk. I have heard from people who have gotten soot on the wraps…not sure what they are doing to cause this. I suspect the flame is too close to the wrap. But you can always use a cleaner heat source (like an alcohol lamp/torch with denatured alcohol) if that makes you more comfortable. Hope this helps…good luck!

[@richardhardin3926]

Okay, I bought the burnishing tool and you were right. wow. where did you get that spatula?

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe! @Richard Hardin I promise I will never endorse something until I’ve used it - a bunch - and believe in it 100%. That Jon Hood tool is The Ticket! I couldn’t ever find the right spatula so I learned to make my own. You can, too - check this out: m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/j3fTeoKIf8Skg7c

[@davidmackenzie2681]

Thanks for your insightful videos. I've learned quite a bit from watching them. I'm trying to apply finish to guide wraps on an un-sanded blank. When I try to move the finish from the thread onto the blank with the spatula, the finish wants to follow the spiral ridges left by the molding process rather than staying in a straight line. Do you have any hints on how to overcome this problem? Thanks.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Hey David - sorry I missed this question initially. Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe! So I know EXACTLY what you are talking about...it can be a pain depending on how pronounced the spiral ridges are. There are two things in my experience that help. For the first, I'm going to describe what I do from the perspective of the rod butt being on my left and the rod tip being on my right. Essentially, I am going to take the direction of the ridges into account and use them so they are forcing the spatula into the wrap vs. away from it. So far in my experience the ridges always run the same way so the below instructions should help. So on the left hand side of the wrap (the butt end side) I am going to rotate the blank AWAY from me as I go around the wrap. If my spatula finds a groove or ridge this way it runs the spatula into the wrap vs. away from it. On the right hand side of the wrap - the tip side - I am going to rotate the rod TOWARD me as I edge the wrap. Again, this means that if the spatula rides the groove it will ride it in toward the wrap vs. out away from it. Make sense? In the event your grooves run the other direction - which I personally have never seen but could be possible - just reverse the above instructions. The key is that you don't want the ridges 'dragging' the spatula and finish out away from the wrap. The second thing I do that seems to really help is use a heavier bead of finish and don't actually touch the blank with the spatula. I am sort of just using finish to make contact and sort of 'ghosting' over the wrap while following the top of the outside edge of the wrap...vs. letting the spatula firmly contact the blank. I especially focus on this at the one point where the ridge intercepts my finish straight line...I'm sort of pushing a bead of finish over instead of dragging it there with the spatula if that makes sense. Hope this helps...let me know if you have questions. Thanks!

[@davidmackenzie2681]

That was a big help. Thanks!@@masteringrodbuilding

[@lylefinger315]

I had an old rod and havre been practicing using the flex coat "lite". I know you use the high build. The finish came out great but does not have the bulk that yours did. Does your method only work with the high build ? I am happy with the low profile finish only if it serves the purpose without the bulk. Do I need to add a 3rd coat? On the second coat I let the flex coat sit for 15 minute and it became "syrupy" and thick but dried to a less dense finish. I hope I explained myself clearly. thanks

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Hello Lyle - thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe! So...full disclosure I've never used the FC Lite so I'm honestly not sure if this technique works with that. BUT...it has worked with everything I have used so I assume it would work. It would likely just yield less build up. But it might very likely need more or less time and would (I'm guessing here) yield less finish depth by virtue of fewer solids in the coating. But only Flex Coat could say for sure on that. And remember that temperature dramatically affects your time table...I work at about 75 degrees Fahrenheit. In terms of build depth and whether you need another coat, that is really up to you and what looks good to you. From a purely functional standpoint, as soon as you have complete saturation of - and coverage of - the thread wraps you are functionally complete and every else is just cosmetics/aesthetics in my opinion. I find that rods where the finish is so light that you can see thread ridges/texture show wear more easily than rods with more depth or build up to coat the thread wraps. Thus why I build up my finish coats to the depth I like. My finish is about average in depth but some people think it is very light...and others find it very heavy. So it's kind of subjective. All that said, if it is functional and looks good to you then it is 'right' and you are 'finished'. No pun intended. I hope this helps!

[@conspicobserver]

Are you using high build or low build gen4 finish? I couldn’t find if you talked about that.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching Ben...please like and subscribe! I use the regular high build Gen4. I can easily get it very thin by warming it and removing excess and it penetrates completely along the guide foot tunnels, etc. So I personally have never seen the need for a low build/lite version. Hope this helps...good luck!

[@nyciscfishing1561]

Do you still use decal connection with the gen 4 or have you changed your supplier?

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe. I 100% still use Decal Connection for my labels. There is nobody else even close.

[@eldridgeburrows9570]

Bill I Put a coat of epoxy on. and need to apply the second coat it's been over a week ago what should I do to prep for the second coat Thanks

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Eldridge the only thing I would do is hit the old coat with some light grey ultra fine scotch brite and then apply the next coat. I hope this helps!

[@machinemantool]

Hi, I went through the video a few times and likely missed it. Are you waiting for certain time after the first coat to apply the second or are you waiting the manufacturer recommended time?

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe! I wait until the first coat is firm and tack-free before applying the next coat...at 75 degrees that's about 8 hours for Flex Coat Original High Build and about 12 hours for Gen4 High Build. In no event do I wait longer than 24 hours for the second coat. So apply it any time in that window. If you are using a different finish, then I'd follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Hope this helps.

[@lylefinger315]

If you do not have the epoxy flow a little onto the rod don’t you get a sharp edge? or do you let some on the rod to get that rounded look? Thanks The more I listen to the video the more I learn

[@masteringrodbuilding]

The second coat I carry the epoxy over onto the rod blank...thus protecting the thread wraps and getting the rounded look. Hope this helps!

[@eldridgeburrows9570]

Bill do you use the same technique with builds that has under wraps?

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe! There are lots of ways to do it, but I apply the finish - two light coats - to the underwraps first. After that has set for a few days (36 - 48 hours) I then do the guide wraps and finish as described in this video. Hope that makes sense...good luck!

[@eldridgeburrows9570]

Thank you Bill got it!

[@michaeljwagner7968]

How do you keep what you applied not dripping while you are working on other guides?

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching...please like and subscribe. That is a bit tricky on larger guides. First, let the finish set long enough before you start that it has clearly thickened. Second, constantly rotate the rod to keep it from dripping when you are moving between guides. You sort of have to keep a timer in your head and know that stuff will drip off if you let it. Finally, it's possible you are using too much if it always drips off on you. Hope this helps...good luck!

[@nicbarratt3385]

Interesting to use a spatula. I have used the Gen4 but tend to get some bubbles. I feel like the release is pretty good but with a brush i tend to get more bubbles than I would like.

[@michaelward7691]

High build or low build - when do you use each and why?

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching. Please like and subscribe! So in the words of Dennis Miller: 'This is just my opinion. I could be wrong.' Your actual mileage may vary. For me it's high build always and low build never. I've never personally seen any need for low build finish. I just put high build on and remove it until I'm happy. I guess maybe lite releases bubbles more easily? Or maybe it has a longer pot life? But it also must be turned longer and runs out under guide feet way worse in my experience. To me, you just don't need it once you know how to control and manage your high build finish. Let's take a traditional finish that has been around as an example: Flex Coat. Great, proven product that is very easy to use for most. Proper application of heat makes Flex Coat products temporarily low build...whenever I want. And then it's high build if I leave that bit out. So if I know what I'm doing, Flex Coat High Build does everything low build does and then some - but the opposite is not true. In my experience lite is just not a club I need in my bag. And take the next big thing in finish: Gen4. This product is a game changer. But even with it...why do I need lite? The Gen4 high build releases bubbles like crazy with NO HEAT and I can easily apply it so thin with a brush that I can feel size A thread ridges with my fingernail after a coat. And...I can put it on heavy if I want on butt wraps or whatever. If high build will act as both lite and heavy for me...what do I need a low build for? Use whatever works for you...I know some fly rod builders that use lite either for the first coat or the entire build. But for me I stick to high build.

[@chucklowell672]

We’re you or do you use this same process with the gen 4 and you using regular or low build?

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe! So I use the exact same process with Gen4 and it works great. You do need to rotate it a bit longer on the dryer (I go 3.5 - 4 hours at 76 degrees with Gen4). And I always use high build. To me, low build is pointless. I can get high build so thin you can see the thread ridges just by applying some heat to thin it and removing the excess. In my experience high build will do everything low build will do but the opposite is not true. So use whatever you like, but I see no point in a low build finish - I just control and manipulate the high build to get what I want. Hope this helps - tight wraps!

[@dominiqueleblanc2193]

What is your rpm for drying?

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Dominique - I have tried everything from 40 rpm down to 4 rpm. I have come to prefer 6 RPM for drying 2-part epoxy finish. I will use 18 RPM for varnish or Permagloss, but for epoxy it is always 6 RPM. Hope this helps!

[@peteruveges1976]

Is high humidity bad for putting on finish?

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Well...high humidity is not ideal. Humidity does not extend cure time like cold temperatures or accelerate them like high temperatures. In fact humidity does not affect the cure time of epoxy - or its ability to cure at all. So if your finish is tacky or won't set up, it is NOT humidity. BUT...humidity is one ingredient to a really nasty outcome called amine blush. If you get just the right combination of humidity and CO2, you get an oily glaze on the finish of your cured epoxy. It is not common, but it can happen...if the humidity and CO2 levels are both high and reach just the right balance. If you eliminate humidity, there is no way to get amine blush. So it is good to minimize humidity if you can for that reason alone. I live in Alabama and it is very humid at least 8 months out of the year. However, I keep a small space heater in my shop that keeps the temperature at a steady 75...and in the process lowers humidity and holds it pretty steady. If you are having issues I'd suggest you look into temperature control...you'll likely find humidity stays in check. Hope his helps...let me know if you have questions.

[@peteruveges1976]

@@masteringrodbuildingThanks. I have a few questions, most importantly level finish on butt wrap. Building rods for few years, can't seem to get level finish. I think it's the rotation that makes it so, or its the uneven amount of finish, or satan. I used the pro kote which which seems to have the most level finish, but end result is not as tough as thread master. I use thread master lite and heavy, best results by leaving rod sit 5min then rotate 180 degrees and repeat until firmed up. Will try the Gen 4 which you recommend.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

@@peteruveges1976 here you go: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ionReZiapbGNj7c

[@southernready3006]

I’ve always heard to not use a cigarette lighter because the butane suet will stain the finish. Even tried it once and it did leave a brownish black stain. What gives on that?

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Thanks for watching - please like and subscribe! So technically you are correct - a cigarette lighter burning butane will create some soot that can taint the finish. However, in my experience this soot is only created when the high orange/yellow part of the flame touches an object. The flame goes NOWHERE near finish using my technique and I have never had a soot contamination problem. That said, you can use an alcohol lamp if you'd rather. It certainly is a clean, cool flame. Hope this helps.

[@TheFishingHobby]

Lighters can definitely leave soot on a finish. I will occasionally cheat and use a lighter, but if I do, I always use the lighter at the base of the flame and come at the rod from the side. Clearly he has his technique down and working great, but definitely something others need to be aware of and practice to get the hang of it. For whatever reason, the base of the flame near the lighter doesn't seem to give off any soot like the top of the flame can. I'm not sure of the science behind that, but that has been my experience.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

@@TheFishingHobby I agree - only the top of the flame seems to leave soot. Of course you could always use an alcohol lamp or mini torch or some other source of heat if you like. This is just what works for me.

[@TheFishingHobby]

@@masteringrodbuilding I've had an idea in the back of my mind for making something unique for heating rod finish up. I haven't gotten around to that yet, but I'll be sure to upload a video about it when I do.

[@masteringrodbuilding]

@@TheFishingHobby sounds awesome...would love to see what you come up with!

[@scottwinter6117]

It’s a great video, not sure if it’s the lens on the camera, but your guides appear not to be lined up, at all! What’s the deal with that?

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Spiral wrap. The first three guides rotate…the rest are perfectly aligned on the 180 degree axis.

[@MikeWilliams-mq3jn]

Are you located in Arkansas?

[@masteringrodbuilding]

Once upon a time...did a stint in Fort Smith and then was in Little Rock for a while. In Birmingham, AL now.

[@MikeWilliams-mq3jn]

@@masteringrodbuilding I’m from Van Buren, but I’m living in Bryant rn, but returning to VB

[@SanDiegoAstroRods]

👀