I am restoring an RGD 1046G but i really need to know the size/specs are for the 2 fuses mounted on the amplifier case. Also are they slow-blow. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

You think I can fix my pads if I open it up? Their sensitivity is poor, I have to hit them really hard when in pressure sensitivity mode

Do you know what the original type of stocko connectors is that was used by Philips in the CD-104? The Stocko connectors seem hard to come buy, just wanna make sure I buy the right ones. There are some with the pins in line and with the pons in a zig-zag fashion.

what is your latency like

I need a couple of tips on this synth, now can I contact you? I would pay for your time and knowledge, of course.

I wish they'd built these a little sturdier. I really do like the direct input overdriven for guitar distortion!

Re: the rust options and my Tama comment below, I was toying with the idea of getting a 1mm piece of anodised metal cut and then CNC engraved to match the control panel artwork. So in my mind what you'd get is a kind of overlay (like the cardboard preset overlays Moog sometimes include in their synths) that would hide the original fascia beneath a fresh, two-colour new fascia. You wouldn't have any colours on it, so I guess it'd look like a monotone version of the original machine. Yes, you'd have to recreate all the artwork, and the additional height of the fascia would make some buttons look shorter, but if you got it right it could look pretty slick. Try searching "CNC Engraved Instrument Panels" and "traffolyte labels".

Watching closely re: the rust. I have a Tama Techstar 305 that looks very similar...

EXTREMELY useful !!! Thank you so much for doing these. It will help many like me fix their SIEL. There are a LOT of them out there that need repairs. They weren’t the most reliable, let’s just say. But what they lacked in reliability, they more than make up for it in sound quality. So creamy. Closest thing to a Korg Polysix in my opinion.

Oooh, that's even a reasonable price, compared with others I've seen. I should get one and compare, most clock sources I have aren't particularly stable. (See my video on that)

Are you based in NI , maybe be doing this process myself next year

Not sure why you think it is Italian? it's got 'made in Japan' on it and Sound Master (not Soundmaster, the brand is two words) were a Japanese company. I have two of these and there are two different versions of the pcb hence the 'bodges' or 'kluges/kludges' as some factory adjustments were clearly made at the QC/Test stages to ensure the darned things worked - wires soldered in different places on both of mine.

Any reason why you didn't do the VCA offset calibration? Just asking as I'm struggling to see the spikes on my scope. Also turning VR5 lead to no noticable change on the scope. I might be missing something.

Ah I see you have also a Moog the Source :-) great synth. I bought it when I was 18 or 19 back when it came out. Still have it. The DOC chip on the piggyback board has pin 17 cut. There was an issue with the dac on the early doc chips so they added an external DAC. I am currently trying to fix my second mirage which doesn't do much at all ( DSK8 with a cut doc chip) It could be the floppy controller, Eprom ( though i doubt that), Processor Ram or maybe a secondary voltage regulator. I'll find out somehow and otherwise its a nice exhibit piece ( only paid 100€ for it)

It really looks ok, considering these parts are very hard to find. At first glance, I thought you finally found a replacement one! So, all good.

Nowadays a 3 D print might be a solution for the broken keys.

REALLY awesome! I have 3 of those to repair, as well as 2 Expanders. And one extra Expander that works well (my reference). So this is really helpful to me. Thank you so much for sharing! Hope you get her fixed! Will let you know if I can find some replacement switches somehow.

Only the right reel of my tascam 424 is not spinning, any solution? I am not good at disassembly. If you have any good ideas, please let me know.

Hi I have a juno6 the the hpf vca vcf and envelopes are not working but the chorus is any ideas 🎹🎹🎹

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It's a shame Customsynthuk is not operating. They could have sorted out the panel. Some of their work can be seen at their IG page.

If half the button controls get scrambled when you change the patch, but work flawlessly on patch 00, what would be the first thing you would look at?

Hi! I bought the Opera 6 over 20 years ago from a guy, but before selling it to me, he said he needed to "throw some chips inside." He did, we powered it on and it worked flawlessly, except voice 5 sounded a bit different than the other voices. He just said it could be easily "tuned by ear" but I was young and so happy I got it, i wasn't thinking straight. I got the service manual, but couldn't make heads or tails of it. I tried tuning it, but never could. Turning the trimpots didn't make any changes. Today I've contacted a retired repairguy who said he would help me fix it, because no other ever would (I live in a small town in Croatia, so they mostly repair TVs and stuff ). He wanted me to check if perhaps the 2044 chip of the accused voice was different from the others. I powered the synth on and now it's gone mad: when I press DCO A the LED light on ADSR comes on, and so on all over the control panel! When the synth cools down, and I power it up again, it seems to work fine for a short while, but then it's "messed up controls" again. I am afraid to take it to the repair guy in this condition, because he will probably refuse to take it. :( The only thing I did was I resoldered the battery back on, because it got loose. It's on a long cable, so if it leaks, no damage will (I hope) come to the board itself. Oh, and it refuses to accept preset 95. When I type 95 and press enter, it just returns to the previous preset, no matter which one it was. What should I do?

hey bud, I just got an ms10 and some of the pots are noisy as hell. the guy I got it from said he'd cleaned it up, there was still contact cleaner on the outside of all the pots, but still a fair amount of crackle and noise. the keyboard is also a bit noisy. I am completely useless at repairing things. do you ever look at or service other peoples gear? im down in wicklow., so only a few hours away from you. cheers .

2:34 does the cable have to be soldered to the display or is it a connection? I didn't see how you put the cable onto it.

12:06 you said that's "key?" To know where it goes? I didn't hear. Also how do you know if the pins match and aren't in reverse?

Nice progress there! I’m also working on an Opera 6 that was in very similar conditions to yours 💀. Out of curiosity, where did you manage to find the replacement keys?

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Do you know how to tune mines is way off

Companies like printographic ot Trace Audio in the US may be able to make an identical cover for that.

Yeah, that kind of rust can only be fixed by sanding the cover down and make a new screen printing, which probably isn't worth it. But I did see a Golden TR-909 on eBay, though, I guess it had looked like this at one point. And something like that could be cool. The worlds only silver Opera 6, maybe? :-D

Have you throughly about 3D printing a button?

great channel m8

Great video! My sh-09 is visually almost mint, inside too. BUT there is no sound from the VCO and sub, unfortunately. Only clicking sound when triggering, and some occasional noise bursts, and a rare blip, when pressing keys rapidly. The noise generator works and external input is ok, a bit unstable quality, sometimes more noisy and lower volume. Any idea where to begin?

Thanks, very useful! I have to repair my Six Trak, which was mint condition. I don´t have much experience. I was updating the OS and stupidly put on the chip upside down. Then got a new OS chip, but the synth counts to 6 now and jumps straight into sequencer mode, and I can´t make it stop playing. It´s stuck in that mode. I am hoping replacing the battery will fix it. If not, then I am lost...

1:50 Your Moog Source looks a whole lot like a Moog Rogue. 😄 Sorry, couldn't help taking a jab. We all knew what you meant. Thanks for the rack tour.

Hello, is the LCD Display in the Yamaha TX7 a "Winstar wh 1601a yyh jtk" or an other ? I am looking for a display but the winstar is very hard to find an not available in Germany, best regardes Jörg

What IR camera do you have?

Congrats! You’ve come a long way with this one.

I'm doing a JX-8P atm the moment. Cosmetically it looks not dissimilar to the Siel here, but thankfully the internals turned out to be rather excellent, as the "no sound at all" described in the ad was simply the 8P's usual LMH switch acting up. Just be thankful you have all the panels - mine is missing the lower RHS panel beneath the pitch bend assembly and I'm not sure at all how to replace it. Any suggestions would me MOST welcome... 🙂

I saw someone already offered keys from a Prophet 2000 (if they are the same). However, if they are not, I have a parts Opera 6 that I acquired in even worse condition than this one. It has already helped me turn a couple of DK600s into pristine working units; I would be happy to help restore another example! LMK if you cannot source keys or any other components (like the switch!). Keep up the great work, I know first hand how difficult it is to remove that heavily corroded solder from those tiny vias on these old Siels! Love your content!

still after a top panel switch if anyone's got a spare

I have the keybed out of a Sequential Prophet 2000 that I stripped for spares (allegedly a touring keyboard from Spandau Ballet at one time). It looks to be the same as the one in the Siel, so I could send you the keys to replace the broken ones if you need them.

An idea regarding the rusted case... maybe you could try some automotive products like rims cleaner spray. Smells horrible but it is concieved to disolve the rust and corrosion without to much damaging the remaining paint/silkscreen all the while. Some youtubers have used this product on old rusted PC metal cases with relative success. I've tried it myself and I can say that it works pretty well. But this case is really rough, so I don't how it would turn out...? Anyway I wish you the best with this repair/restoration, and would like to ask again, like I did in one of your previous video, if you could turn KZbin's CC on for us non-native speaker. Thanks!

That’s one rough synth! You are a braver man than me. TL084 has a higher bandwidth and is faster than the 074. Might not be critical in these applications. Also, is that synth chasers’ OpAmp tester?

I feel you with the battery rant. What a terrible design that was. And so common!

What you have there is a Ship Of Theseus...well 2 ships of theseus. Hopefully part 2 has a happy ending.

Hi Do you know the CC midi implementation for this kit?

Nice video! Did you completely disassemble it prior to using a wet toothbrush on it? Seems a little risky having liquid that close to a unit...

got a rx21 for 20 bucks, it gives me 'no battery' info when plugged, is the battery removable? or is it soldered to socket? thanks