This is a great model shop which I've been in many times. Its a shame the website has only one plastic kit listed as Id love to order from these guys online instead of the larger shops in the UK mainland.

I know this is 4 years old but I found this video so cool, it’s amazing how clever the unit is going through all the point work. Would this work on N gauge too do you think?

Guessing if your Mrs found out about the Nuclear Wagons that she would go Nuclear about the purchase 😂 great video 👍

Great video Mark Ive been having major issues with two points and a double slip would solve this but being new to hobby was scared to use a double slip but you have now made it simple thank you

Hi Mark. Thanks very much for creating this video and answering my questions. It's certainly been a great help as I slowly make up my mind 😉. I've recently been looking into the NCE Powercab starter sets as they have just become available again and aren't too badly priced atm. I do really still like the idea of what DCC can give to you but I'm weighing up the Pro's v the Cons. Thank you for the link to my channel! It's slowly growing nicely as is my build. So close to being able to start on the track! I tend to lay and wire my track to future proof it so it has the ability to be easily converted to DCC if I go down that route so I may just start as normal with DC and then get all the parts in that I need in order to leap into DCC quickly and easily. Thank you again for your help and advice!

Wonderful ' Hornby Dublo 3 rail. Takes me back several decades. A bit more electrical control.than my grey transformers.as they were called. The Art Deco station building is modelled on West Allerton Station which is on the Liverpool - London route. From Liverpool Lime Street - there are 4 lines , or used to be, up till Ditton Junction.. Edge Hill ( think George Stephenson - William Huskisson 🤔) then Mossley Hill then West Allerton. Past Edge Hill Engine Sheds ( long gone ) with a spur to Garston. In between Edge Hill Station and Mossley Hill the line passes under Penny Lane - think Fab 4 ! Great video.

Great bargains and a nice review of the purchases. Cool video and nice discussion!

Q1 is a notoriously fragile thing - that specimen looks nice to me - I'll guess 80 quid. I paid 63 for mine DCC ready - argh Nuclear flasks - nasty - I wouldn't give you a tenner for the buggers, personally. Good quality models, though. 100 euros for the 37 is a great price. No opinion on the car transports. I've had lots of bargains from Brian's shop - excellent. Good vieo, Mark, Thx

Great video Mark

Front left steps were missing on that Q1; maybe that's why the glue mark was there. I reckon you got some good to very good deals on most of that lot. Your wife should be proud of you 😀

Hello Mark! Some very nice bargains there especially the ews class 37 and the Accurascale wagons. Thank you for sharing.

top bargain on those car transporters

I've found in the past that laying track is not too difficult. The problem I encounter is (let's say for simplicity I'm building a circle of track) that last piece of track that completes the circle is where i have problems. I never seem to be able to lay this track without problems. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Thanks for a clear and concise tutorial.

Love your KISS approach. As a newbie, I am learning a lot. Keep up the videos.

followed this with class 37 first time ive done this thank you so much.

Really great work Mark, vacuum attachment works really well 👍

Wouldn't want to drink those Dr Peppers 😂 but a lovely update on the Modellers Corner layout

Nice bit of work there, Mark! The vacuum is very cool. My vacuum has only one speed. ;)

Great video. I would like to understand how trains can switch tracks via the turnouts given you have two loops independently controlled by DC? Could you explain how you managed this as the videos don’t cover this but you have got turnouts going between the outer and inner loops.

Very useful tips indeed, great video 👍

Good video and explination of how DCC works Mark.

Great! I’m definitely needing info about this! But different locos are surely going to have different climbing capabilities. How do you figure out what each loco is capable of? Must be some way of calculating tractive effort before it slips? Using a spring balance perhaps?? I have newer IRM locos, but a few very old DC locos too. The 141’s I understand are all wheel pickup and all wheel drive, (guess 071’s and 121’s are the same??) whereas the old Deltic, Class 50, Class 33, (and a 4 wheeled shunter which couldn’t pull the skin off a rice pudding) have pickup on one bogie and drive on t’other (if memory serves from 35 years ago!😮). Let me know what you think.

Was this the video you wanted me to watch mark ?

How do you stop trains crashing into each other when using Dcc (without adding extra wiring.)

Cool place 😎

Very good informational video Mark. Many thanks.

I started out on DCC in around 2007. It was the detailed stock that did it for me. 17 years on and thousands spent was it worth it? Yes and id never go back to DC. Its the control it gives you. Love the lights/ sound too. Out of those thousands spent is a lot of wasted money too. I have a box of blown decoders and some DCC locos that are simply crap. I hard wired quire a few DC locos ( stayed clear of split chassis ones) and use Lais cheapest decoders(£12) each now roughly altho they were £8. Suppressors and resistors fitted to locos can interfere with DCC signals. I hard wire up first and see how it performs. Any irattic running and then I remove these( simple cuts and no reconnection of any wires usually). I use gaugemaster and love it. The burnt out decoders were caused by shorts in my wiring so as a fail safe and they dont tell you this once you have hard wired a loco make sure the number you gave it reads back correctly on the PROGRAMME track only. If it comes up a different number or err it cannot go on the main track or it will blow the decoder(higher amp draw on there). Fault could be wires touching/bad decoder etc. Now you have the manufacturers making it hard to fit any decoder with next 18, plux 22, 6,8 & 21 pin all coming along. Also with can motors coming in this also has an effect on certain decoders. Im still learning and need to understand hoe to solder properly and the wiring side of dcc (amp draw etc) as im planning my 28ft x 10ft layout. If I had a DC layout & locos now id sell that all off and start from scratch with DCC. Good presentation and love the Irish locos👍

Fabulous video, really well explained and easy to follow. Great work my friend :)

oh i wish i could understand it, maybe on the next turn we could do it

Good vid, some important info regarding the changing over and precautions with chips. I subscribed too!

Good work 👍

Hello Mark Hope you're well Great explanation of DCC 👍

Reopening of the Western Rail Corridor & bordering railway lines bring back Donegal trains cut down on Traffic Jams, Car Accidents/Road Deaths & Pollution.

What a brilliant video Mark, DCC brilliantly explained

I hope Finnerton Central takes notes as he loves DCC! 😂 In all seriousness that is a great guide to DCC and well explained, great video

Why wouldn't you just pop the loco on your layout and do the run in there??

I'm new to DCC, haven't actually run any yet. I see you removed the blanking plate and then fitted the decoder, but I was expecting sound as well? Is there a different type of chip required for that?

Can you or would you use Any Rail to plan a OO garden layout??

Great questions, great answers! Well done, explained, and demonstrated! Cheers, Mark!

This was a great introduction. I can’t wait to help my nephew start his own layout. Thank you so much. 👍