I also own a 01/w Pro X and am currently facing the same issues. Some of the tact switches are broken, the screen's backlight isn't working, and the original LCD panel has issues as well. Since I want to fix it myself, I've been searching online for repair information. I'm really glad I found your video-it was very professional and clearly explained. In the whole video, I think the hardest part would be recalibrating the contrast voltage, which is beyond what I can DIY... I found that there are pre-made LED backlight LCD panels available online. I'm wondering if I would also need to follow the same steps as you did, like modifying the power supply to provide 5V. I'll keep looking into it. Wow! You even have the original floppy disks! That's amazing! Lastly, thank you so much for the video! It has given me more confidence to repair my 01/w!

Have you ever fixed a GEM S3 Turbo? If I hadn't sold it a few years ago, I'd have handed it to you for sure...

Reinard, thanks so much for your effort, you are really an expert! 👍

did anyone try to upgrade DAC on sy 22? I have both sy22 and sy35 and really preffer 35's sound more

Such a great and informative video, thanks! I have sy35 with dead pitchbend wheel also aftertouch is not working either.

This is like a horror film for me. I love my 16+ and am just about to do the zuluscsi and gotek upgrades. I dont think im at the skill level to do the caps and sliders but now i know about hte effects chip. Cant thank you enough for posting this. Perfect timing for me personally. Its such a wonderful keyboard but i have stripped it down and done the keybed a few times. 😉👍

Amazing guide. Now, I know that glue is not leaked capacitor electrolyte. Oh well, the old caps had to be changed anyway. Is there a good method for fixing stiff aftertouch response on various vintage synths like K2000, DSS-1, SY77, and similar?

This has come at a good time for me, as I have to fix my troublesome EPS 16 Plus. It has errors after 30 minutes warming up. This video will be very helpful. I have seen someone say that the 5v regulators can be replaced with Traco 2450 switching regulators. They run so cool that they do not need a heat sink. I will do this, replace the PSU caps, fix the keyboard circuit board's link connector and de-oxidise the rest of the connectors.

Good methods. I need to get one of those wide blade tips. I can't see them on Amazon. What is the correct name for them, please?

Great job and I love your documentation 🎉🎉

Great!! I like your way of diagnosing. Just like it's ordered in a special way to follow the signal👍👌

Entertaining as always. Videos like these keep me from clicking Buy on old gear. I've managed a few basic repairs (with help from Facebook) but I don't have the knowledge or tools to pull off a repair like you just did. Love watching though.

Thanks nice edit! Helps to see the whole process, and congrats on a job well done

Hello, I just replaced the display on my Korg 01/WFD but when I turn it on the Korg logo appears and then the screen stays blue and there is no image. The keyboard works fine but there is no image.

Great job I have a dead XP that I would like to try to get running again. Can you give a rough estimate for the repairs you performed (understanding that each repair is different) A ball park would be helpful. Thanx

great video, can you please share the info on where to get the capacitors for for the XP50?

Pleez out put ac v from transformar

Thank you so much! I just successfully fixed some key with your help. Thank you! ☺️

so much love :) great job!

I'm from the UK and My Xp-50 Mainboard is Assy 70546001 M4 My caps on board are only 25 1X 4.7μF 50V EEEFC1H4R7R 17X 10μF 16V EEEFC1C100R 1X 330μF 6.3V EEEFC0J331P 4X 47μF 6.3V EEEFC0J470R 2x 1μF 50V EEEFC1H1R0R

Hi, At 2:17 where exactly are you putting the Leads to test the PSU? it's hard to see as your hands are covering? Thanks

Awesome Video. Well Done!

Rainer Buchty may be able to help you. He has made a replacement for a different R6500 Ensoniq MCU.

Hi Reinard, can you please tell me where to get the replacement felt and grease for the keybed? I have been scouring the web but cannot find the right one. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks a lot!

Exelent knowledge, i thank you for this video!!

I also have an SQ-2 where the LCD, backlight, and buttons work, but the sound is just a low frequency "hum". I am thinking it's the DAC, Op-Amps, and/or the Ensoniq OTISR2 chip (I hope not!). I'm looking in getting a new oscilloscope to do more troubleshooting, but I need the schematics for the SQ-2; do you happen to have them? I will look for an 138065002B and see if I get lucky; if I do will try to contact you ASAP. Cheers!

Gruss Gott! Can you help me to repair the groovebox? I live in WIen

Thanks a lot for this video - thorough and reliable information presented in an entertaining way! Have you thought about replacing the keyboard scanner (138065002B) with a micro controlller like an Arduino? As far as I can see it uses a 8x8 matrix for the keyboard and something like a 4x4 (or similar) matrix for controlpanel button scanning and LED driving. The Arduino Mini has 14 digital and 8 analog in/outputs so this should work to scan the keys and buttons and to merge this data to the data from the display controller. But it needs some 'programming experience' 😉

another great one thank u,,,what are your thoughts on why the scanner ic died?

Excellent video. Really informative. Thank you! 🤙

I would add that you need to remove all/most screws from the bottom of the keyboard (not just the ones seemingly holding the sheet metal/cover), otherwise the cover does not slide out; also I was only replacing 2 keys, but you should remove the front sheet metal as well in order to remove the keys. Lastly (this is not clear from the video imo), the movement to remove the keys, once the back of the key is popped out, should be forward (which is why you need to remove the front sheet metal, in order to have enough clearance to move key forward), and then up. Note that screws are of different thread type and lengths, so you should keep them organized in order to be able to easily replace them during assembly.

Thanks for the video. My battery just died. Your video was of course spot on. The one thought I had while doing this swap was if I was going to lose the factory presets as some devices do. The answer was no. I would guess if you have patches saved you might want to back those up so they don't accidentally get lost. Thanks again

oh dear this doesn't look to simple, need to do a similar job on my 01w. thanks for this uploadnsuper helpful. that's a great job you did

Great job ! What resistor should have been used in the display(instead of changing cms resistor on the main board)? Thank you.

I'm not only obsessed with collecting screws, but also nuts and bolts. The one you throw away today is the one you will need tomorrow.

2MB of the base 6MB PCM is 8-bit depth.

Wat doe je als een van de rubber knoppen bovenaan blijft hangen?

Wow that Emu Pk-6 I had one back in the day and I regret selling it. You have a really nice collection and I hope to get there soon. 🙋🏾‍♀️💙

Hi, cool work! I'm in Graz and I'm also into synth repair. Recently I've been working on reverse engineering and rom dumping for preservation purposes, and I think that some stuff you have would help a lot! Especially that D50 board if you still have it. Contact me if you have time :) Thanks!

On the PK-6 you *might* still be able to get into diagnostic mode and run self tests. A "bad instruction" error might indicate an issue with the onboard DRAM or a corrupted OS flash. It essentially means that the CPU's program counter is at a location at which no valid code exists.

Breaks my heart to see a dead s90! That was such a great, unaffordable machine...

Why don't you try to recap one of those non-working main boards. I'm a cuban technician and my experience most of the time those problems are due to old smd capacitors with a very bad ESR,could be a possibility to bring back to life a good instrument and getting working for at least 10 or even more years before to fail again because of this, a very common issue in old synths. BTW,thanks for sharing your knowledge and time.

Greetings, friend, you have a KLM 2000 main board card for the Korg i30 For the sale I am needing one

Ein schönes Ersatzteil Lager hast da angesammelt... Synth und Elektronik Nerds halt in ihrer Bestform😅!

Great Yamaha Montage playing 😎

hi another awesome video..all your videos are very informative...if you could please tell me, what is the make and mode of the audio injection too? thank you

Please tell me you are available for fixing other people's machines. Like mine for example! What's your fees and how do I get it to you?

congratulations on the excellent work

wow man, you are a f***ing master! any tips how one should start his soldering/electronics repair journey to, one day perhaps, reach your level?

Hello, greetings from Bogotá, Colombia. I have a Yamaha SY 35 synthesizer, and it has two problems, one is that the patch selection and function buttons must be pressed with some force because they do not seem to make good contact. The other problem it has is that one of the keys sounds louder than the others. I have to press the key very gently so that it doesn't sound so loud. What could be the cause of these failures? Thank you very much.