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If it's any help, I bought a Stanley Sweetheart low angle Jack about a year or two ago. Without even thinking, I rolled the corners because that's what I always do. I find that in practise, I have to roll it a bit further up the sides than usual. On diamond plates, the extra few strokes to roll the corners is negligible.

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Do you worry that by doing all the teeth from the same side any burrs will all be on the same side. That is a very small burr is created on the far side of the tooth as the file exits the gullet. If you alternate - even where there is no fleam, any burring will alternate along the blade. I know it is extra work, but I think it is worth it. Or is that over cautious?

Hi I am really liking your videos very informative. Where in Australia are you me Newcastle area NSW

This is one of the best sharpening demonstrations that I have seen. I watched many before I decided to sharpen my own saw, so many of them contradicted each other. You did a fine job of laying out the information. I like to paint the saw teeth with a machinist layout fluid instead of using a Sharpie. The layout fluid doesn't wipe away like the Sharpie does and the Sharpie is cut up by the teeth. The layout fluid can be wiped off using acetone or mineral spirits.

Great video by the way!

Are you familiar with a spokeshave and is this a different type of scraper or a plane?

Thanks for posting this video. I have been trying dados or housing joints with knife and chisel and no saw. Very satisfying if you get it right, but it takes forever! Your method looks so much more sensible - and far faster! Thank you from a viewer in Ireland. I will definitely subscribe.

Thanks. Useful as usual. Unrelated to topic of the video, have you ever repaired cracked wooden planes? And if, with success? I have one (my grandpas old), 460mm/18inch in length, homemade (no markings found and the tote/handle is slightly offset, which usually tells that it is homemade), very very old, blade is really thick but so easy to sharpen. So anyway, forced it to open more with a small oak wedge, poured slowly glue from every which way to the cracks, took the wedge out and clamped it. In a hour or so I'm go check it, it has been over night. If it holds, good. Then to work on the sole. Hoping to get this one working.

I usually go over the teeth with a sharpie first that way I can see the shiny new file mark.

Thanks for another good video. When it comes to adjusting saw set, it is not necessary to use digital callipers as I see so many times on KZbin. That's just not practical and was never done back in the day. Common sense will tell you - if it works well and feels right, then it's right. When sharpening, the file should be held horizontally, regardless of it being a rip or cross cut.

thanks for the file recommendation. working out what files to use has been a hurdle getting started saw sharpening/ reprofiling for rip cutting

Great video! I had a question on your saw, though. Which is the one you have right now? I saw theres 2 saws similar on amazon, both are 12 in but the brown is 13ppi and other light wood is 15ppi. I want it as my main crosscut but not sure how the handle compared to eachother.

I've mainly used Japanese pull saws in part because I dind't want to have to worry about sharpening, but this makes it look much more simple than I envisioned.

I seem to remember Paul Sellers referring to the ruler trick as creating what is called a York Pitch. which has certain angle of attack advantages. I disagree because once you go down that route, you have to continue along it when you re-sharpen. My way of thinking is that, if you can't easily correct the back of a blade, just replace it. You don't want to be removing excessive material because it weakens everything. Similarly, you don't want to be adjusting angles because that sets up future harder work than is necessary. Either way, it's just kicking the can down the road.

Ive had problems with 2 new WR v3 planes…chip breaker and blade not flat. I returned one (it had other problems) and now have a solution for the other. Excellent video! Thanks for posting.

Great concept Luke, and some easy, useful content!

saw plates Well it's descriptive.

My workshop is my garage in South Florida so open to the elements: After de-rusting the hand planes, I clean and dry with a heat gun set on high and too hot to touch the metal. Then spray with "WD-40 Rust and Corrosion Inhibitor". Still rust free after 6 years. It is, in principle, similar to "hot bluing" metal.

My cabinet maker grandfather used to keep his saws wrapped in newspaper. I don't know what if anything he treated the blade with. From memory it worked as saws not rusted when unwrapped a couple of years after his death.

What are your thoughts on these methods? Silicon spray rust protector, and gun oil. I use both, but have never tried them on my woodworking tools. I use paste wax. The silicon spray is really good, it's dry and doesn't attract dust. The gun oil is probably the same as brad nailer oil which is very thin, and very, very good at protecting from rust. Take care.

I use linseed oil when i am putting things away for a while. I it still oxidizes and leaves a film coat that does pretty well. I keep mineral oil on things for daily maintenance. 3in1 oil can get gummy and lacquer over if left long enough so i dont use that. 3in1 has bitten me a couple times in the past, though more often on machines like sewing machines and the like with delicate parts that can seize trom the 3in1.

Hi Luke, appreciate your thoughts on rust prevention. I live on the far south coast of NSW so lots of humidity. I’ve tried several products which are supposed to remove and then prevent rust (some quite expensive) on my cast iron tops of band saws and lathe. They work for a few days then the surface rust returns even when I’ve covered the equipment up. Any suggestions on how to at least delay rust returning. Cheers

When using a saw or plane or whatever, traditionally, candle wax (for me) is the go-to. To store such tools, wax is not recommended because it attracts and stores dust, which collects moisture and then the rust sets in. To store tools not being used, any oil will do - I use a light coat of engine oil at the moment because I have so much of it but 3-in-1 or olive oil or vegetable/sunflower oil or any other oil will protect your tools - oil is oil and any one will do. I know about the rag-in-a-can oiler and saw it many years ago (and then forgot all about it for a few decades) but I don't really bother with it, though I do now have one - but being honest, I prefer candle wax.

I switched to jojoba oil from 3 in 1 to avoid a second con: I don't like having petroleum distillates on my skin all the time. When I found out that Lie Nielsen uses it on his saws I figured it was good enough for me too. It is also good for my skin. Thanks for the video.

I've had that same saw hanging in my cabinet for a couple years now, waiting for me to do this exact same job. I ended up getting into my Japanese saws at the same time, so the push to fix this one fell away. Cheers for the reminder, I'll get on it this weekend.

Thanks mate.

I've use the S&J panel saws a lot, other than the handle (which is easy to reprofile) they are great. I'm fortunate to have some fabuous high end tools (Lie Neilson, Clifton, Veritas, etc.), believe me these saws are wonderful, even at 5x the price. They cut fast and true as received and are ridiculously inexpensive. The 10 TPI featured is currently £15.95 on amazon in the UK. S&J also do a slightly larger version, 9515K which is 2" longer and 7 TPI. Also slightly more expensive, £24.19 on UK Amazon. I have several of the Pax saws mentioned which I planned to refurb, the S&Js were meant as cheap stop gaps but are so good the older Pax saws are still in the rack waiting to be done up. The 10 TPI panel saw is my go to for most jobs. BTW, the handles on the Pax saws look fancier but are no more comfortable, the profile is very crude when you think the "premium" part of a saw is largely the handle. They too certainly need work or replacing (they do have traditional saw nuts which is nice). Your choice but personally I'm very happy with both versions of the S&J panel saws.

Love you videos. This was very educational. Appreciate you.

Great video. Are you in Australia? I live in the USA on the border of PA so historic tools are abundant, but I have mates in Aus who say its really hard to find good vintage tools or they're very expensive?

Great video and nice job. I bought the tennon and panel saws from Amazon thanks to your previous video, they arrive tomorrow! Did I really need any more saws, well no, but... Is that half round a medium cut? I ask as mine is a bastard cut and seems far more aggressive than what I'm seeing here.

Good work

One of the better handle mods I have watched. Good job!

I also have this saw and first order of business was reshaping handle without taking it off, which is totally unnecessary. After trying different set ups I settled on a 6 degree rip filing. Tooth set is leaving a .029 thousandths kerf cut in wood . After that it is really a fantastic saw. Seems like the price has gone up quite a bit since I bought mine though but still recommend as a very good buy. Use mine for rip and crosscuts and it actually crosscuts better than it rips because high tooth count, however it rips good on narrower cuts.

Nice!!!! I have the same saw...i tried to get out the rivets and replaced them while working on reshaping the handle... well i broke the handle 😡 so i made new one from beech turned out beautiful and comfortable ( i didn't had an5 experience). Than i have attended the saw blad - used Paul sellers method. And it's a great saw now

Have an old saw I bought back in 1968. Recently did some reshaping of the handle to accommodate my arthritis.

Looks good. I'm watching this series with a lot of interest. I've seen other videos (Sellers, Krueger and others that I've forgotten) detailing how to shape S&J saw handles and they all have their own take on it - all of them good but I like it that you mention not to take too much off for the sake of aesthetics, which could weaken the handles, so that's a bonus.

for folks that don't have a lot of experience with what feels right on your saw, hold it and make test cuts as you adjust the handle. you can make a handle shape in such a way that it makes you cut crooked or feels good when held but actually puts pressure on parts of your hand that get uncomfortable as you actually saw. just stop every so often when you check the feel and make a test cut or two. make sure the saw was cutting straight before you started though. bad toothe set will also make you cut crooked. good job on showing the process. i always remove the rivets and put in new Chicago screws on mine because i think the rivets are ugly. some of the ones i've drilled out had the blade epoxied onto the handle on top of the rivets so removing the rivets did absolutely nothing but change cosmetics. i don't remember of any of my spear and jacksons were that way though, it's been a while.

Great video, dude. You're giving me the courage to do it to mine (I have those same saws). Thanks for posting, and please keep up the hard work.

Looks great brother! Ive never re-profiled a saw handle like that, but I got a type 8 number 7 jointer plane that had a replacement tote that was very basic. I reshaped it using the same process you did, various files and rasps, sand paper and a little sawing at the beginning, and its my favorite handle on any of my planes because it's shaped specifically to my hand.

Honestly... I use a mitre saw 😂 But I still enjoy learning how to do it without power. ❤

Thanks man

Getting your first bench is one of the biggest challenges when starting out. Buying a decent ready made joiner's bench is expensive and probably won't be as good as something you can make yourself as your skills improve. I've just finished making my own new bench, which is again maybe too expensive for a starter (around £600 so far, with a few more bits to add to it yet) - as well as being a pretty involved project in itself (depending on the style/design). Over the years, I have made many benches for myself and others but the cheapest 'makeshift bench' was a pair of simple trestles with a thick (40mm) kitchen worktop resting across them, which I used onsite and outdoors because it breaks down for transportation and storage easily. It's a bit springy in the middle but it can be stiffened with battens on edge running underneath the length of the worktop and will get you by until something more permanent comes along. Some inventive clamping practises will make it more versatile - I recommend F-clamps, a couple each of two or three sizes (I now get them at Aldi/Lidl when they have them in the middle aisle, they are good enough). A bonus of my 'makeshift bench' is that you can also add a 'makeshift shelf' to drop in underneath for tools and stuff - another salvaged worktop or planks will do. Collapsible steel A-frame trestles are great because they resist movement in all directions and are height adjustable with cross beams to hold two shelves underneath - I've seen them in sales from about £30 a pair. Used scaffolding boards held together with battens width-wise underneath also act as makeshift benchtops. Hope it helps!

alternate starter set for someone that needs a one toolbox solution like i did when i needed to move around with my tools. i've used this basic set to build book cases, display cases and plenty of other tools including hand planes and frame saws over the years. this is not intended to be the most budget friendly option but it can be modified to be pretty budget friendly: Saws: - 1 Japanese ryoba saw should be between $15-30USD or $50 for the folding version if space is a real concern this will handle rips and cross cuts but is impulse hardened. i replace the blades on mine about once a year with heavy use. pull saws take a bit of getting used to but a dozuki having two blades on one saw is a huge win for space. the rip side of a dozuki can be resharpened but the crosscut side is impulse hardened. blades are really cheap once you have a good handle. - 1 Japanese dozuki saw for joinery, basically a dovetail saw. should be less than $30usd for a good brand like Suizan, Z-saw, Kakuri or Gyokucho. there are Chinese knockoffs that are reasonable quality like KYRYE. There are also folding dozuki saws for a bit more money if space is really at a premium. - combo blade hardpoint hardware store saw: if you are going to be breaking down a lot of plywood, get a hardpoint contractor's saw. some plywood will wreck the teeth on the Japanese pull saws. Chisels: - 1 set of GREBSTK 4 chisel set off amazon(1/4", 1/2", 3/4", 1") ~$15 Planes: - new: Stanley 1-12-137 62-Low Angle Sweetheart Jack Plane. with the adjustable mouth it can be set for smoothing or moderate roughing work. get an extra blade and set the bevel for a higher angle and you can do smoothing work on very difficult figured wood with a quick blade change. if you have a little extra budget though, get the Veritas low angle jack. it is by far the best low angle jack i've used and you can get blades with different angles preground for it. the Stanley is perfectly fine but the Veritas is worth every extra dollar if you are going to be using it a lot. both planes are excellent shooting planes as well. - used: any vintage 4 through 5-1/2 that you can get and restore to working order. it isn't uncommon in the US to see a usable vintage #4 for under $70, but be careful that you aren't buying something with a cracked mouth. that is hard to see on a listing or sometimes even in person. - optional: any dedicated smoother that you like. or you could go with a veritas custom smoother-sized plane instead of the jack and get blades for that as your one plane option. Layout: always check any squares you get to ensure they are square and then square them or return them. - 10' tape measure that is small enough to pocket. i keep a Stanley Powerlock 10' in the watch pocket of my jeans most of the time. super helpful when you're at the big box store and need to what the actual dimensions of the wood you are looking at is. - IRWIN Combination Square, 12” and 6" will run around $25 - other options: - if you have the money: iGuaging 6" and 12" set for ~$70 is much better quality and easier to resquare than the Irwin. it also comes in a protective hardshell which I appreciate because i can just toss it in my toolbox without worrying about it. - take a look at taytools and see what they have in their blemished tools. they often have very nice thick rules that can be used to make shopmade double squares fairly easily. - shop made squares, double squares and depth guages Marking: - i started with an OLFA snap blade utility knife and that works great. i used that knife for bookbinding for ages as well. goes for $10 and blades are dirt cheap. - i prefer the arrow pointed marking knife with a flat. for the type of work i do, it is very helpful. i made mine very thin out of an old hacksaw blade after seeing Jim Kingshot's marking knife on one of his DVDs. - i use 0.7 Bic mechanical pencils that i buy in 40 packs and use all around the house. for detailed work i use a Pentel Graphgear 1000 0.5mm which fits into some of my layout tools with tiny holes. pencils are mostly for rough marking and knives are for finer work so the pencil doesn't matter too much to me. - regular blackboard chalk for whitening the ends of dark wood to mark pins when dove tailing. - lumber crayon for marking rough stock where my pencil leads break or aren't very visible. Drilling and Boring: - brace and bits with swappable 1/2" 3-jaw chuck on a square socket drive. got mine from garret wade for around $50. super useful tool - i don't carry it with me, but I have a corded drill and a set of ryobi drill and impact driver that do the job. they fit in the toolbox but aren't part of my normal kit. - i use dewalt drill bits and bosch driver bits because they are usually on sale and easily replaced like for like. dewalt, bosch and makita all make servicable stuff. - for brad point drill bits, which i think are necessary, i use Fisch brand bits in the three main sizes that i use regularly for dowels and pilot holes. they are accurate, well balanced, excellent durability and only cost around $5 per bit. Finishing: - card scraper or make a handheld scraper that holds snapblade utility knife blades and roll a bur on them with a fine sharpening stone. - a couple pieces of sand paper of various grits for those times when the grain just won't play nice - small container of shopmade pastewax (beeswax, carnuba wax, solvent) - small, well protected container of tung oil. - #0000 steel wool - couple of different scotch-brite pads my entire setup fits into a 22" toolbox that fits on a shelf and i can easily carry. i have the nicer version of everything in my toolbox and it would cost me a bit under $650 to replace the whole thing, $750 if you include the Ryobi drill/driver set, not counting the toolbox itself. almost $400 of that is in my Veritas low angle jack and two extra blades with different grinds. i can build pretty much anything i need with this toolbox, the only thing i am limited on is resawing wood more than 8" wide. i would need to switch to a frame saw or a larger rip saw for that type of operation.

Excellent content as always, i always enjoy your great videos, many thanks, regards from pakistan

I'm glad you warned new woodworkers about the marking gauges. When I first tried my Veritas wheel marking gauge I thought it was a total waste of money. I finally decided I was going to practice with it on scraps and after a few days it became easier and easier to mark a straight line. Now I love the marking gauge so much I made 2 sizes of Japanese cutting gauges (kebiki) that I can mark with or follow the grain and cut thin stock. I have not cut anything thicker than 6mm but I think I would not have a problem with 10mm stock. BigD in Texas

Hi Mate, My Dad was a carpenter joiner by trade and he would buy an oil stone and immerse it overnight at least in a solution of Kerosene and some singer sewing machine oil. Every time he would use the stone, after this breaking in procedure, he would just use a water spray on the stone and a slurry would come up from the stone for him to sharpen blades in. He swore by it and told me the old tradesmen put him on to it.

Hi Mate, Thanks for the heads up particularly as I am in a similar situation for acomodation to yourself but just south of Brisbane. Very encouraging. Onya mate !