Hi, thank you for your question. To be honest i'm not entirely understanding the problem. I understand your walls aren't perfectly straight, but you shouldn't need to isolate the skirting boards from the wall, you only need to isolate the skirting board from the floor. Your floor layers shouldn't touch the wall, so you can just leave a 5mm gap and fill with acoustic sealant. To maintain the 5mm gap with a wall that isn't straight, you'll need to spend time scribing the edges of your floor layers to follow the line of the wall. I hope that helps.

precisely the answer i needed, thanks. for skirting board not to act as vibrational bridge between top floor and the wall it's best to sit it on the 5 mm insulated gap after acoustic caulk is cured. or perhaps apply a pe rubber antivirabtion tape of 5 mm thickness all along the perimeter extended 1-2 mm above the top surface and let skiring board sit on it. would be easier? would it be comparable against an acoustic caulk liner all around the perimeter for a 5 mm gap in terms of flaking noise decoupling?

Hi, thank you for your question. So there is good and bad. A cavity wall is much better than a single skin wall, you have much more mass and you have de-coupling from one side to the other. So this is all good. However if the cavity is properly insulated this will perform even better as it will stop sound from resonating and amplifying in the cavity. The only other issue we find with un-insulated cavity walls is that sound can generally travel more freely within the building itself (not necessarily to adjoining buildings). In other words, noise made downstairs can potentially get through the first layer of brick / block and into the cavity, then it can travel freely in the cavity up to the next floor and sideways into other rooms. This is particularly problematic with flats more than single homes. So on the scale, single skin walls are the worst, cavity walls with no insulated are much better, insulated cavity walls are the best. When I say insulated, i'm referring to a properly insulated cavity with acoustic insulation, not insulation that is pumped in after the wall has been built.

Thanks @JoaoCunha-wd1nj, really appreciate your comment :)

Hi @Xsuperkraft, appreciate the comment, thank you!

Hi, we can supply to the North West, we cover the whole of mainland UK. In regard to installation, the system is pretty straight forward for either a decent DIYer or just a local trades person such as a builder or joiner.

Hi, it's 5.3mm thick. You might also be interested in a more cost effective alternative to Tecsound, which is FlexiSound (5mm thick). Please see video below: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nJfJeXl3i8yXfas soundproofingstore.uk/product/flexisound-self-adhesive/

Hi @berendbonsema1401, appreciate the comment, thank you! Do you mean ProSound SoundBoard 4? It depends what you need them for, as both do different jobs. It's also worth you having a look at FlexiSound 5, which is a cost effective alternative to Tecsound (video below). Both the Tecsound and FlexiSound are primarily used as part of the ReductoClip Wall and Ceiling solution, they are not a soundproofing solution on their own. The SoundBoard 4 is a direct to wall soundproofing panel, most suited for timber frame stud walls. The below videos go into more detail: ProSound SoundBoard 4 Overview: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fKKqYXlqftNqasU FlexiSound: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nJfJeXl3i8yXfas ReductoClip: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iGPKp3qvepueiqc

Hi thanks for the question. I'm sure you can understand we can't say exactly what it is, that's part of our "secret herbs and spices" so to speak of what makes our board special. But it is a foam not rubber. It's a closed cell structure, high density foam. Either side of the foam is mass loaded vinyl which is a type of heavy, dense, rubber.

@@SoundproofingStore Probably be better if the MLV was not on the part touching the wall because it tends to "channel" the noise in build like that.

@@JP5466 Actually we've found it doesn't make any difference. It's been tested with a thicker MLV on the other side and with the two thinner MLV's like we have it now separated by the foam, and we get the exact same results. The importance with such a lightweight wall is just increasing that mass.

@@SoundproofingStore But you still have lots of flanking noise because the ceiling, floor and adjacent walls were not addressed.

@@JP5466 Hi, yes in a perfect world we would build a "room within a room" and make every space a soundproof, recording studio like haven. However, that's just not practical for most people and most situations. So we're aiming for a reduction in the noise from loud and disruptive to a small background noise you can ignore easily. By blocking a high level of sound through the main shared surface, we make it much better for the people in that room but without the extra cost and disruption of soundproofing every surface. As you can see in the results of this video, we certainly achieved a huge difference just by soundproof the main wall.

Hi thank you for your comment. Yes, if the wall has plasterboard attached we would strongly recommend that this is removed, if not it can cause all sorts of issues. If the plaster is direct to the wall (not plasterboard) that is fine and I wouldn't suggest removing that.

@SoundproofingStore do you have video demoing how to, on new build dry wall. Removing the original plaster board.

@@shorif2000 We don't have a video of that but i'm sure there will plenty on youtube. Search for "removing dot and dab plasterboard".

Hi Thanks for the comment. Wow this is an interesting project. Unfortunately it's going to be a lot more difficult than you think. There are no soundproofing panels that on their own are going to give you silence. Most products advertised as "soundproof panels" are actually for absorbing echo not blocking sound. For this you need a LOT of mass, so multiple layers of heavy, dense materials, and you need de-coupling from one side to another. So I would build a kind of booth using stud framing, and soundproof both sides. Are you UK based? If so, reach out to us on our website at www.soundproofingstore.co.uk and I can send you some more detailed info about similar projects we've done. Realistically though, if you want silence, it's not going to be cheap.

@@SoundproofingStore Thank you very much for your reply, I will keep it in mind !!

Hi, thanks for the question. Slight misunderstanding. The 10mm gap is between the stud frame and the wall you are soundproofing (the wall you are building the stud frame in front of). This should be a minimum of 10mm, but the bigger the gap the better if you can afford to lose more space. The isolation strip goes around the perimeter, isolating the frame from the floor, ceiling and returning walls either side, there is no gap here, as the stud frame needs to be screwed into these surfaces, but the isolation strip just helps to dampen some sound energy / vibration that may transfer bewteen the frame and those surfaces.

Hi thank you for your comment. Yes, you can bring the radiator forward and reattach it to the soundproofing system. in regard to the piping, you'll probably need to speak to a plumber / heating specialist about your best options, whether you bring the pipe forward as well, or run the pipe behind the soundproofing and then use a flexible pipe coming through the soundproofing at one point, seal around it and make it air tight and then connect with the radiator.

Hi @nicolaiengelbrecht3302, thanks for taking the time to comment. It certainly did give us an improvement. It's difficult to see sometimes when using music because the volume fluctuates up and down so much. We also used different music in the before and after test. (The fluctuations in the 'after' music being higher than in the 'before' music). This fluctuation is why in official tests we use a constant white noise type sound. When averaging the airborne performance 'before' we averaged a 27dB reduction and 'after' an average of a 33dB reduction so that's a 6dB improvement. I think next time we'll stick to the white noise for a more obvious result, although less interesting to listen to!

Hi Thanks for the comment. It certainly did give us an improvement. It's difficult to see sometimes when using music because the volume fluctuates up and down so much, this si why in official tests we use a constant white noise type sound. But when averaging the performance before we averaged a 27dB reduction, after averaged a 33dB reduction so that's a 6dB improvement. I think next time we'll stick to the white noise for a more obvious result, although less interesting to listen to!

Hi @nikkion2140, if you take a look at 'Sound Level Meters' there are lots of different options available to buy.

Hi @PE53, unevenness isn't uncommon, especially with older properties. Ideally the acoustic plasterboard needs to be scribed to the shape of the wall so the gap doesn't exceed 5mm. Acoustic Sealant only works effectively up to 6mm, so it is not ideal to have a gap bigger than this.

@SoundproofingStore thanks for taking the trouble to reply, I'll take your advice.

Hi @EddyThrower, it depends on the size of your ceiling. If you want to fill in the 'Request A Quote' form on this link, we can provide you with a quote: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-system-for-ceilings The ceiling in the video was circa 2.5m x 3m and the full system including all soundproofing materials, delivery and VAT came in at just under £1,100.

Hi Thanks for the question. To be honest if it's a solid brick party wall and you have loud noise coming through, I wouldn't recommend the SoundBoard 4. This is for light stud walls ideally. The ReductoClip system is far more likely to achieve effective results for you in your case.

Hi @ed-6457, do you mean with regards to the weight capacity of the ReductoClip Soundproofing System? In which case the clips can carry up to 25kg. The layers added to the system are 35kg m². So the system can easily take the weight of the layers (plus extra capacity). If you mean how much weight your ceiling structure can take, then this is different in every case depending on the joists and the size of the room. However, most homes in the UK will have 200mm x 50mm joists installed at around 400mm centres, which gives you a huge weight capacity. (Which can easily take the weight of the soundproofing and the floor above). We have had thousands of customers install this system in their homes and the weight has never been as issue. Hope this helps.

@SoundproofingStore I was thinking more of the latter question, thank you for the thorough and quick answer

Hi @JamesWilliams-se3vr, great to hear this and we appreciate you taking the time to comment, thank you. If you are looking at soundproofing floors, you might also be interested in the SoundMat3 Plus videos: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iWq9mZx6h7mDmtU kzbin.info/www/bejne/qGm3eHetYpx3aJY kzbin.info/www/bejne/jJbIhYCAm7mZe8U

Hi thanks for the comment. I applaud you doing your research and trying to create your own solution, but that's not the way that we would do it. I certainly wouldn't put blue plasterboard on the wall before the stud frame. Firstly this will give you no benefit, secondly, depending on how it's fixed in place, could actually make the problem worse. Building the independent stud frame, insulation and blue board on the frame is all good. Sound is very complex, if you want to get the best results, speak to professionals like ourselves, we can tell you the best way to go about it, then use your builder to install it for you. Hope that helps.

Hi, thank you for the comment. There is a little speech using the ambient mic from 13.05 until the clap. Not a lot I admit, but a little that you can compare to the "before". The client was very happy with the results and is now all moved in and using the space with 60 phone operators!!

@@SoundproofingStore I just listened and compared to the ambient mic before (while speaking). The difference can be appreciated. Nicely done. Very professional all the way. I wonder if you ever thought of teaching how to do presentations and product demonstrations. I mean as a course or lessons. Both for corporate settings as well as for people in general. Cheers

@@segundacuenta726 really appreciate your kind comments, thank you! At the moment, I'm fully immersed in all things soundproofing, but you never know what the future might bring!

@13:07 he talks for 5 seconds before clapping with the ambient mic. You can hear the sound switch in his voice.

@@NickLaslett Well spotted!

Hi @t.l.5012, to advise on the best solution we would need some more details. e.g. is the ceiling timber or concrete, the level of noise you are experiencing from the fan etc. Please get in touch (01423) 206208 or [email protected] and we can advise accordingly.

Thank you for the thank you @davidbeacham5786 !

Hi, Thank you for the comment. We provide the correct amount of kits you need with the panels so you don't need to source them separately.

Hi, thank you for the question. It depends to a degree on the construction and what is on the ceiling and floor. Mineral wool has diminishing returns, so the more you put in, the less effective each layer gets. On a basic internal floor with floorboards above and a single sheet of plasterboard screwed direct to the bottom of the joists to create a ceiling, having more wool will give you a little more benefit. So 100mm of wool in a 300mm cavity will already do a good job. 150mm will be a little better but only a couple more decibels, 200mm will be slightly better again but marginally. So in most cases we stick with 100mm as this does a perfectly good job and is cost effective, but if you want to use 150 or 200 it will give you a small improvement. However, if you are also doing an acoustic ceiling like our ReductoClip ceiling system then 100mm of wool bewteen the joists is all you need, and any more will not give you really any further benefit at all as the full system is already doing such a great job and is therefore more difficult to improve. Hope that makes sense.

Thank you for the kind comment. Check out our TecSound alternative FlexiSound 5! kzbin.info/www/bejne/nJfJeXl3i8yXfas

Hi, Thanks for the question. If you're using the same SoundMats and same carpet in both rooms, there is no reason technically to use a threshold strip so you can just continue through as if it was one single floor, if you're happy with how that looks. If you did want a threshold strip there just for aesthetics, then yes use a gripper rod riser between the mats and fix the threshold strip into the riser.

Appreciate the feedback. Thank you @JamesWilliams-se3vr

Hi @Benzknees, the mineral wool doesn't need to fill the entire space. However, if it does touch the furring bars, then that's fine. Just as long as it doesn't jam underneath the bars.

Hi @minor00, our ProSound Acoustic vents range from £79.95 to £331.95. soundproofingstore.uk/product-category/acoustic-vents/

Hi @stephenBeecroft, yes SoundBoard 4 can be used on brick walls - however, this depends on the level and type of noise you are trying to block. The boards need to be mechanically fixed to the walls. We recommend using Hammerfix screws: soundproofingstore.uk/product/prosound-soundboard-4-direct-to-solid-wall-kit/ Installation of SoundBoard 4 on a brick wall can be found here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/a5y1iZ2KetSdmc0 For brick walls the recommendation would be to use the higher performing ReductoClip System: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iGPKp3qvepueiqc kzbin.info/www/bejne/nqaxdaaPgLGjp9E

@ we have a dog next door that constantly barks, we are trying to find the best solution to reduce the noise , any help would be appreciated 👍

Hi @@stephenBeecroft for a barking dog we would point you in the direction of the ReductoClip System. The ReductoClip Independent system is the highest performing as it fully decouples the soundproofing from the offending wall and will give you the best performance in reducing the noise heard from your neighbours dog. Alternatively, the ReductoClip Direct to Wall System provides an excellent performance v's space loss result. Please see more information on these systems below: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nqaxdaaPgLGjp9E kzbin.info/www/bejne/iGPKp3qvepueiqc kzbin.info/www/bejne/nILGl52nhtunhbM kzbin.info/www/bejne/onqVk5eHj7yshac www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/walls The recommendation wouldn't be to use the SoundBoard 4 (or any other direct to wall soundproofing panel) in this instance. Please feel free to contact us on (01423) 206208 and we will be more than happy to discuss and explain this in more detail with you.

Hi @TheGodfather101, absolutely, the ReductoClip System can be used for interior walls. Another option you might like to look at for interior stud walls is SoundBoard 4: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fKKqYXlqftNqasU www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/soundboard-4

Hi @tommyiglesias2267, absolutely fine to add absorbing panels and portraits with screws as there isn't actually a hole in the soundproofing, it is filled by the screw. The acoustic layers of plasterboard in the above video are also attached via screws. If you were to drill lots of holes and then remove the screws, then this wouldn't be a good idea.

Hi @shahkarazam.4867, no, unfortunately this won't work. You need to use a soundproofing solution (like the ReductoClip System in the video), not sound absorption tiles. More information on soundproofing a ceiling can be found here: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/ceilings or please feel free to call us on (01423) 206208.

Hi, Thanks for your comment. Actually glue makes no difference, we've tested both and there is no improvement in sound reduction from using adhesive. But it's less safe carrying that weight on the wall, so mechanical fixing is by far the best way.

@@SoundproofingStore Hi, I meant that they are easier to install and that the vibration through the screws is minimal compared to gluing. Since it is much easier to install and also doesn't make a mess in case one wanted to remove them as opposed to gluing stuff to walls. I've watched many of your videos and it is very clear and nice how much better you are than most in the solutions you offer. Just would perhaps add as a suggestion that if someone needs greater results, more distance (instead of the 10mm airgap from the wall in the Reductoclip system) and more insulation will give that. As in 200mm or more total thickness compared to the 120mm that is proposed as a baseline. Wish you continued success. Cheers

Hi @danielekwere7996 (01423) 206208. Look forward to hearing from you!

Hi @danielekwere7996, absolutely. It's (01423) 206208. We'll look forward to speaking with you.

Hi @segundacuenta726, really appreciate your comment. Thank you!

Hi Thank you for the question. So adding more weight to the wall does help to reduce the structural vibration which helps reduce the sound to a degree. However, you need to add a huge amount of mass to achieve that. Mass law dictates you need to DOUBLE the mass of the surface (the brick wall) to achieve just a 6dB improvement. Also on the other side of the wall the sound becomes an airborne sound again and will travel around whatever furniture is on there, making it even less effective. Wheras our ReductoClip system for example adds a lot of extra mass but because that mass is de-coupled from the structure it achieves a far higher sound reduction above mass law, plus because you are building a whole new wall and the mass covers the whole surface area, this also acts as a barrier to block airborne sound. So this will be far, far more effective.

Hi, thanks for the question. Yes the ReductoClip system can be used to de-couple and soundproof a ceiling. There are a couple of small changes, have a look at our ceiling installation video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/apKziopofcd5aKc

@@SoundproofingStore thanks can I do it without removing the existing ceiling like you did in this video?

@@tommyiglesias2267 You can, but note the result won't be as good. Having that layer in between the floor and the soundproof ceiling will actually reduce the effectiveness of the system, so it's better to remove it if you can. But if you absolutely can't then you need to make sure you locate the joists behind the ceiling so you are fixing the ReductoClips into joists not just plasterboard. You will also need to install a 25mm mineral wool between the furring channels like in the wall video.

Thank you @danielleferguson3073, acoustic treatment really does make a huge difference. It can be like night and day when experiencing it first-hand.

Hi @TauroChuck, because the dragging of chairs is happening below and the noise can be heard in your room, what you are also hearing is the airborne noise being created from this impact. The impact vibration might also be travelling up the walls. If you treated the floor, this will certainly help and can also be upgraded further with FexiSound (please see more information below): kzbin.info/www/bejne/nJfJeXl3i8yXfas Please feel free to call us on (01423) 206208 and we can discuss this in more detail with you should you wish.

Hi, thank you for your question. To be honest, this wouldnt' be the system I would ideally look at first. TV noise can be quite bass heavy, and your party wall is likely solid brick / block. SoundBoard 4 may help to a degree but will be limited. A far more effective system would be our ReductoClip system which can deal with far stronger sound energy for bass and reduces far higher levels of sound. www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reducto-clip-system or www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-direct-to-wall-system

Hi @glenn7148, it depends on what you can hear from the TV. e.g. is it every word, muffled, the music. Is it so clear you can even tell what programme they are watching? It might be worth looking at the higher performing system, The ReductoClip System (please see below): kzbin.info/www/bejne/iGPKp3qvepueiqc kzbin.info/www/bejne/nqaxdaaPgLGjp9E Please feel free to contact us on (01423) 206208 and we can discuss the unwanted TV noise you are experiencing in more detail, and advise on the correct system.