Hi, at one time I also had 2 AN1X units, on my channel there is even a video with two AN1X units. Here is the link to the video kzbin.info/www/bejne/emjRYWalpc6df7Msi=KJ4K2RRD2uOSxqTm AN1X is truly unique, some old things made with intelligence and love never get boring and AN1X is just such a synthesizer.

Hi, Unfortunately it was so long ago when I last took this pedal apart, so to be honest I don’t remember. Just in case, I would advise buying several of these capacitors in different SMD packages: 0603 & 0805. One of these two sizes will definitely be suitable for on-board pads. One 1N4148 diode has a voltage drop of 0.67 volts. 2 diodes give a total of 1.34 volts. If your guitar's signal level is high, then the distortion or overdrive effect with two diodes and 1.34 volts will be stronger. In some cases, to reduce the overdrive effect, it will make more sense to use 2x different diodes in series with different voltage drops. For example, the combination 1N4148 + BAT54J (0.34 Volt) will give a 1 volt voltage drop. If you want a little more overdrive or distortion, it is better to use 2x identical 1N4148. The OPA1656 microcircuit is much less noisy, has Rail to Rail, which allows you to slightly increase the output signal level with the same gain factor, has a very tasty sound. And garbage OPA inside any guitar pedal, I always change to this OPA1656 type of operational amplifier or to the OPA1612 (though it does the sound is not so soft, but more crystal clear and sonorous, the OPA1656 is better for guitar pedals als best replacement type for all other OPV!). To easily unsolder old components on the board, the best way is to have a 3...3.2mm soldering iron tip with a recess or notch on the tip. Then you need to cover the entire component with liquid rosin and apply a little tin to the soldering iron tip. The next step is to short component both sides of the capacitor with molten tin so that it begins to “float” in the tin and separates from both sides of the board. And then everything is simple... using a soldering iron tip and liquid tin, we simply remove the old component from the board. I have long stopped buying industrial pedals and believing in stories that for 100...200 euros you can get good pedals from start to finish. I assembled my own pedals with the best components and sound that suited me. But with these videos I help people who have industrial pedals to make their pedals sound better.

@@js-sound Thanks for all that! Regarding the diodes, I am actually thinking of just wiring a DPDT switch (on-on) so I can switch between the two types of diodes. I'm still trying to figure out where I can fit the switch, though, but I think I can make it work! Desoldering the opamp is still pretty nerve-wracking for me, but I'll give it a try. Thank you for the advice regarding the soldering tip! This is my first foray into SMD soldering, so I am a bit nervous. Your advice is greatly appreciated!

Hello, if you are talking about sound quality on KZbin, then absolutely yes. I upload videos in super quality with sound, listen to the sound in SD before KZbin converts my video to HD, the sound is excellent. As soon as KZbin converts the video to HD quality, the sound deteriorates and turns to crap. In the video I insert Wave format 48kts 24 bit without compression. 🙂

@@js-sound what about resampling light-dynamics 2-1 -12 ddither 44.1k/16-bit MP4, a KZbin master? That’s what most people do.

@@miekwavesoundlab It seems to me that KZbin has made it a fashion to collect money for everything. Do you want to watch videos without annoying repeated ads? Pay money! Do you want to promote your content? Then be prepared to pay a lot! Do you want good, undamaged sound on KZbin? We hope you still have money left for this option! 🙂 If you have few subscribers, then sorry friend, even money won’t help you! The fewer subscribers, the more we will spoil your videos and sound. This is roughly how KZbin works. 🙂 I read the entire manual and information on the topic “how to make a video correctly in order to upload it to your KZbin channel?”, nothing helps.

Hi, it is normal by HS8. If you did everything absolutely correctly, did not damage the conductors under the microcircuits and the parts close to the microcircuits (0603 resistances and capacitors) when you soldered the old microcircuits, then you can say with confidence what your problem is. LME49860 are good microcircuits with good sound, unfortunately they are not suitable for a crossover filter circuit on a preamp board. Have you installed all the extra electrolytes that Yamaha saved on the preamp board? I'm talking about: C312, C313, C325, C326, C347, C348. It is advisable to solder next to IC301 2 smd 0603 0.1uF 50V ceramic capacitor between the GND and -15 volts and the GND and +15 volts directly 2 mm from the 4th and 8th legs of the IC301 microcircuit. At the IC301 position, only the OPA1656 works 100% with excellent sound and without any self-oscillation problems. In all other positions, you can leave LME49860. A week ago I modified monitors for a good friend of mine. I have an excellent laboratory with all measuring instruments. After I modify all the boards, they go through a long bench test. Separately, the modified preamp board and power amplifier worked properly. When I assembled everything (by the way, don’t forget to check the connections of all cables and plugs! Without a plug with a preamp cable, it’s dangerous to turn on the monitors!) and turned on the monitors, one of them behaved very strangely. Slowly the calm turned into a rumbling bass and the bass speaker, or rather its diffuser, was drawn inward. I took everything without speakers to work, put it on the laboratory table, I connected 2 powerful resistors instead of speakers to the output of the power amplifier by HF and LF. The phenomenon that I saw was a voltage imbalance and offset for a few seconds at the output of the power amplifier. Or in other words, the drift of the zero offset point towards negative voltage. I checked all the containers and absolutely all the details on the diagram. I didn't find anything! After that, I thought for a long time what the problem might be. And I came to the conclusion that some capacities on two boards of the preamp and power amplifier were charged at different potentials and did not want to be recharged. To break this chain, I applied a signal to the monitor input, turned the monitors on and off a couple of times, after which everything worked properly. Moreover, what I’m telling you is an atypical case, and even more so with those ICs that I checked 1000 times! Therefore, after all the cases, I can tell you with 100% confidence that if you do everything correctly, change the IC301 to the OPA1656 and there will be sound.

Hello friend, I don't know this. Disabling the limiter with 4x Transistors and 1x Resistor is many times easier than unsoldering tightly glued 6x ICs to the PСB. If you do not do this carefully or do not have the necessary equipment (an industrial hair dryer with a thin beam of air and a temperature of approximately 150 degrees Celsius, a good soldering iron with different tip attachments, a lens or microscope,thin wire cutters, braided copper tape to remove excess tin from the pads, several tweezers, rosin) and experience in electronic affairs, then the entire modification can turn into a disaster. It is especially necessary to take into account the crooked hands or statements of such people about “if he did it, then I can do it too,” which can lead to disastrous results. After 100 modified HS8 monitors, I can say this....if there was no glue under the chips, the whole task would be simplified to a minimum. But this glue is a dangerous thing; along with it, the conductors under the microcircuits can come off the PCB, if this happens, you will have to do jewelry work and connect everything with thin wires manually. Even for me, with a really wide experience of working, including with BGA chips and processors with 192...256 fine pitch pins, it doesn’t give me much joy to remove the ICs that Yamaha chose. I usually do this modification only when I have no other things to do with electronics and mainly for my friends and acquaintances. True, they still send me broken monitors that users have not been able to properly fix. Many people fail to do it as correctly as I do.

@@js-sound you are a great guy, i respect you a lot man 🙌🏻

Because people often read one thing and do something else. It's not my problem. Some people have no knowledge at all, such as in electronics, then they take on something and think “if he could do it and everything worked out for him, then it means I can do it too.” And the difference between a professional and an unenlightened person is as big as between heaven and earth. All my videos, the time spent creating each video, responding to all comments, and reading messages like “help, I watched your video, I wanted to repeat the modification, but I had huge problems, what should I do?” took up a lot of my time. In addition, they sent me “damaged monitors” so that I could revive them. What did this bring besides a couple of likes? More harm than good. And other people were even smarter; after watching the video about Supernova 2, they realized that there was a better DAC than the one that was inside, and after my videos, a new DAC appeared in a bunch of online stores based on my recommendation. Who was able to make money on this again? Everyone except myself. And do you think it makes sense to share various knowledge with people after these couple of examples, and then sometimes read angry complaints that all this is nonsense, like the manufacturer knows better what should be inside than you, etc. It was even worse with my presets. One buys presets for synthesizers from me, and then puts them on the network for everyone or sells them in packs together and with other presets from other authors for 10 times cheaper. And considering that my price for my presets and for 8 years of my work on creating sounds that are in many ways better than all other presets is low, I could not understand human greed. That's why I gave up on this matter. Everything works for me and has always worked, I’m not a dummy. And if anyone has problems, then these problems do not lie with me, but with that person who imagines himself to be a “supreme specialist.” Some peoples even ignored my every word from the video, which clearly stated “if you are at an entry level, if you have no experience, if you do not have the appropriate measuring equipment and the necessary tools, and also if you do everything your own way by re-reading all the information, I don't recommend taking on this mod... Many people come here and don’t subscribe to my channel, everyone watched something important for themselves and forgot about this channel. As a result, my channel developed terribly slowly thanks to such tactics, many years have passed. And now I am absolutely indifferent to what happens on the channel, whether subscribers are added or subtracted. But I’m glad that good and right people are still with me and are grateful to everything that I offer and show them. By the way, the same thing happened with the Yamaha Montage modification. After the first videos, many people ruined their boards so much that even I couldn’t fix them after these people. These people simply burned all the chips. Do you think I have a desire for my videos to work this way? Of course not. But the more information I post, the more stupid things many people do, and only a pro can do a lot the way I do. I apologize for the long answer, but I think it will be clear to you what I was dealing with.

Hi, all amplifier boards, according to the service manual, should be the same in all HS5/7/8 models. My email address is at the end of the video (watch the latest videos or skip to the end of the video).

That's right, I don't want to sell it either, I really like its sound.

I've never owned these two synthesizers.

Hi here is the links to the video kzbin.info/www/bejne/i2PXo6Nmnrmeh7Msi=8vXNJm5dZJtLBWsC kzbin.info/www/bejne/i2PXo6Nmnrmeh7Msi=mP9MH3vrCZb1_lbc

I just got one , you think its a worthy mod ? I got for a song one data pot needs replacing ive found so far .

If you know how to handle a soldering iron and SMD parts, then be sure to watch my video, where I talk about how you can modify the AN1X to make it sound great. Trust me, after modifying it, the sound will be the best you will hear from this synthesizer. AN1X can replace many analog synthesizers. I had both OB-6 and many Beringer analogues, including Oberheim. I have an inadequate attitude towards many analogues. Often I may not even like the filter in it, besides the poor integration of MIDI with DAW, the lack of effects on board and much more, all this leaves me cold even to analogue polyphonics with presets. I have had my AN1X for 7 years. There were other Yamaha synthesizers. I am not selling AN1X because it has a unique sound. There are no equivalents to it on VST either. There is no substitute for it, it has excellent filters, effects and modulations. It may sound like a retro synthesizer. I had a lot of “musical toys” in my collection; the sound of the AN1X does not irritate me in any way. This is a rare quality in any synthesizer. I even like the AN1X noise generator. Well, its filter is the best thing in similar synthesizers like AN1X. If you need presets, I made five and a half banks of my presets for the AN1X. Many of them with full support for controllers and modulations and customized effects. All my presets are usually optimized for volume. They do not sound quiet, due to this I gained a better signal-to-noise ratio. My presets can be purchased for 18 euros. If you want to buy them, you can transfer money to my PayPal fotojs77 at gmail.com and when transferring, indicate “presets for AN1X and email.” I'll send them to you.

Hello, you're right. I remember 1999, at that time I was looking for my first synthesizer, when I began to get involved in music. I went to the music store and saw the AN1X (new). But then it was dear to me, there was no discount on it, and in those years I bought my first synthesizer, it was Korg N5ex. As time went on, synthesizers came and went. And I bought my AN1X only 7 years ago. At first I listened to ready-made presets, but often noticed that there was a problem with the sound. I quickly solved this problem, I modified the AN1X (there is a video on the modification on my channel) and after the modification I said “wow! that’s the sound!” I was shocked by the result. Since then I haven't actually turned off the AN1X. If I compare all synthesizers, Eurorack modulars, by hours of use, then over 7 years only AN1X worked more often and for a longer time. To be more precise, 80% of the time, I use the AN1X. I even like its controls. It is logical, simple, somewhat reminiscent of the MS DOS system. Yamaha stopped making good synthesizers a long time ago. What Yamaha uses in Montage M is not AN1X. I sold my Montage (the first one) which sounded better than all Yamaha synthesizers in history, because I modified it too. The reason for the sale was banal, prices began to fall dramatically on previous models. I bought Montage 8 more because of the good heavy keys, including for a child, so that my daughter could play with piano sounds. I've been criticizing Yamaha for a long time for a lot of things they do wrong. Yamaha learned something from my videos. But I cannot fully correct their policy. No matter how much I would like to completely abandon the Yamaha brand, I cannot sell the AN1X. AN1X is still the same synthesizer when Yamaha made them with intelligence and love and without marketing. :-)))) The original sound quality will be here for a couple of days! drive.google.com/drive/folders/1DI-3oLSU892xej2zvXMl-vgIh8Qjksgl?usp=sharing

@@js-sound Thanks for the wav.files, beautiful clear sound! In 1999 I've also watched AN1x in a shop window. Since I loved its audio files from music magazines way better than its competitor's, there was no question left what to get Since I didn't want anything unpacked, I've ordered it thru another music shop and dragged the package home by bus and train after work. It wasn't my first, but the very first synth with a proper FX section. Since I was only used to lofi digital & hifi analogue with Kawai K1II, OB Matrix 6r/1000 & AKAI VX-600, I admit having to get used to its VA sound but side by side with real analog equipment and with the help of its shaping, EQ & VCA- feedback parameters, the mediocre sound quality could still be improved. Supposedly AN1x was one of Dave Smith's creations. Very good job! A little pity is that, unlike the AN200 (and probably the PLG expansion), hardsync only. sounds authentic with sawtooth and pulse waves. With square wave hardsync.suddenly turns into a glassy wave without any friction. Otherwise for me there's none to complain. When a device continually surprises and rewards one it's priceless. Present Montage's ANX section absolutely doesn't suite my taste. In todays's times I'd at least expected something real sounding like f. e. Roland demonstrates.

Hi, friend. KZbin really messed up the sound in this video. I uploaded high-quality audio to my Bandcamp, but even there there is a huge difference between the original and what I hear on Bandcamp. Follow this link for an example from the second part of the video with phaser. js-sound.bandcamp.com/track/yamaha-an1x-js-sound-preset-schulze4-phaser I don't have free space on Google Cloud. But in order for you to download the example in original quality, I uploaded the original to Google Cloud in both versions. After you write to me what you downloaded, I will delete these examples from Google Cloud. drive.google.com/drive/folders/1DI-3oLSU892xej2zvXMl-vgIh8Qjksgl?usp=sharing

Everything is at your discretion. Limiter and voltage slew rate are 2 different things.The microsecond is multiplied by the op-amp supply voltage! As a result, a slow operational amplifier needs 30 µs for the output voltage to rise to the maximum level in terms of the relative signal level. I don’t know how you studied at school and what grades you got in mathematics. But 30µs for music and mid and high frequencies is the most important! And if there is no speed, then you have no transient, no clarity, no clear cymbals and percussion. In addition, the difference between the sound of each op-amp is many times greater than the difference in appearance between a person of the same race. In other words, 1000 operational amplifiers from different manufacturers, even with the same Name 5532 for example have different sound. Well, the NJM in these monitors is a musical BOTTOM. And if the class of operational amplifiers is different, then the sound may differ as sour from alkaline. If you couldn’t, if you can’t, if you’re lazy to do everything to the end, you shouldn’t affirm what you yourself don’t know. When you finish the job (at least on one of the two monitors), then you can write an objective opinion. In the meantime, as I understand it, you stopped halfway and are fooling people.

i've now got a pro800 and it sounds better after updating and loading a bank of patches for the sound you want

Hello, I sold my electric guitar a long time ago, I still want to buy some kind of electric guitar that is not too expensive, but good. guitar. Therefore, I apologize for the video with a regular acoustic guitar.

Don't apologize, it's your sound ! Far from me to judge ;)

It is not that bad. By combining a bit lower output and gain on preamp it is manageable. But there is noise for sure