@@jarrettwalck3409 Yea, I think that’s the route I’m heading. After looking it over closer and seeing that it runs, drives and cuts already with no major problems, that’s 3/4 the battle right there. I’m going to try and locate the correct fuel tank and bracket for it cheap, if not I’ll get creative and add one I already have made for that style engine. Thanks for the suggestion.

@@andrewchristiansen-Detroit These were produced before they were even using ft Ibs ratings. It was hp and cubic inch for Briggs, foot pounds was not even a discussion during this period. Foot pounds came after they got sued in 2007. Not sure if your referring to the machine in my video or the pictured one, but if your talking about mine the Quantum was a 190cc 5.5hp engine. It could run anywhere from 2900 rpm to 3150 at full speed 1500rpm for idle. No small engine is running at full throttle under a load at 1500 rpm, that’s idle. I just made a video going over the hp and power over ratings bullshit and the 3 class actions taken against these small engine companies yesterday. lol.

@@Mr_Tecumseh All my Tecumseh power service engine & accessory books 00,01 & 04 all make mention of this displacement engine with 5.5 hp makes 8.25 lb-ft. Show the torque and hp bands at what rpm on a chart. So most engines that size would make 8lb-ft regardless of how they measured.

@@Mr_Tecumseh Also my Kohler XT675 was rated at 6.75 lb-ft at 2800 rpm but my tach claims it runs 2400 rpm. Maybe not 1500 full throttle but for 2400 rpm max its peak torque band is at 1800. Which is where they operate under load. So close enough and you get my point.

@@andrewchristiansen-Detroit Show me the published data made public on that. 2400 rpm is slow, you understand the rpm can be adjusted correct? Also if there rating those engines as 6.75 ft Ibs at 2800 and only setting them at 2400 than there still over rating those engines and are asking to get slapped with another class action. Show me published data on what you’re stating. I really am not getting your point about this band you speak of either. Those push mowers are set at a fixed speed, they haven’t used throttles on them in 20 years and going thru grass under a load at full throttle is not dropping those engines nearly 1000 rpm. Torque ratings are set with loads added into the equation. So unless you have the published charts to back up what your saying I’m not getting your point at all, you start off with an lol like you know it, tell me how these things are set and yet I’ve worked on and used thousands of them including those shitty kohler Toros and I never had one running that slow and if it got knocked out from normal speed it got raised back up. Now wonder your engine is dropping down so far while mowing, it’s too slow to begin with. I never saw any engine set to run at 2400 rpm from the factory. But you show me some published proof of that and I’ll have a look, as of now, what your stating is inaccurate and there is nothing funny about putting out opinion’s as facts if they aren’t verified which gives people wrong information. I’ll tell ya what I know. I know in the last 15 years these engine manufacturers have been hit with multi million class action lawsuits 3 times and they still do it, because the money they make, pays the suit plus some. I know those engines from Tecumseh to Briggs and everyone in between had a published rpm rating of 2900 rpm +/- 150 rpm. I know your original comment is mute, because the mower and the engine in the video was built prior to ft Ibs torque ratings. I know that the later 163cc OHV they put on Toros after the 190cc Quantum was discontinued are still rated at 7.25 ft Ibs and almost 30cc less. I know from running these engines it’s false for a fact, those 163cc engines are not putting out the power the 190cc did. I know a mower running at 2400 rpm is too slow and will stumble in taller grass, I also know set at the correct rpm, they should not be dropping more than a couple of hundred rpm’s max unless your trying to jam it thru 3 foot tall grass. I know I have over 10 years experience working on power equipment from every Toro Recycler from 2000 to 2023, including some of those older aluminum deck ones. I also know out of all of the Recyclers produced, the ones with that Kohler are the worst out of the bunch, not that the newer Briggs OHV’s are that much better and I know the ones that had the Quantum were the best ones and had the most power. I also know over the last decade I watched the Toros with the Quantum start at 6.5 ft Ibs, than went to 6.75 ft Ibs, than 7.0 and finally 7.25 ft Ibs at the end. I know all of it was bullshit. 6.5 ft Ibs was the most accurate and I know for a fact your 149cc Kohler is not 6.75 ft Ibs and not even 6.5 because those engines do not have the displacement the Quantum had which was far greater. I know the Briggs Quantum is a 12 cubic inch flat head (L head engine) 190cc and 5.5 actual horsepower. I know on average they were set at 3000 rpm like almost every walk behind engine I ever came across. That’s what I know and I gained that knowledge thru years of practical experience working in and using these machines along with the research into them. So before you come on someone’s channel with a lol and this nonsense talk, you better have the documentation which has been verified to back up what you say, otherwise I recommend you sit back in your seat and listen more instead of opening your mouth about a topic you clearly don’t know what your talking about with inaccurate information, if you don’t take that advice, you will be shut down by someone who actually has full knowledge on this topic and is gonna call ya on it, or worse yet, spread false information to people who may listen and continue to spread false information. Get my point?

@@andrewchristiansen-Detroit Now we’re talking Tecumseh and your definitely wrong now, have the chart for the engines the recycler used and it barely got above 6.5 ft Ibs, looks like it tops out at about 6.6. We’re all over the place. Also they have been out of business over 16 years now, but I’ve had a couple dozen of those Toros too. But it depends what model and at what RPM. They used the LEV120. I have that models chart right here, Without looking at it I know they were 6.5hp engines, 195cc although they started rating them 6.75hp at the end, which was false and they were sued for it like others. I know from the toro manuals I had for them and online info when you look up the models of that time rpm speed setting was 2900 +/- 150. Power band chart is there, the highest it goes is almost 6.6 ft Ibs at roughly 2800. 6 ft Ibs at 2000 rpm but you don’t run them that low and they were fixed without a throttle, past 3000 rpm the torque starts to drop off again. So not sure where you got 8 ft Ibs but according to them in black and white, you’re wrong by about 1.75 and that’s a lot when it comes to these little engines. Plus that information is old and could be inaccurate anyway because they all got sued for over rating them. Back then ft Ibs and cc’s were rarely talked about unless you were some technical guy. The average consumer of these things knew they had a mower that was 6.5hp according to the sticker on the engine. When Briggs took over the recycler from Tecumseh they were rated starting at 6.5 ft Ibs which was probably close to accurate since they have nearly the same displacement and were set at about the same rpm. There is no way your Kohler is creating 6.75 not even at 2800 rpm, too big a displacement drop But either way 8.25 sounded high, I was almost positive without checking that was well over shooting and Tecumseh had the largest displacement walk behind engines at 195cc. So if theirs aren’t going beyond 6.6 you can be sure nobody else’s are. Reason why they all got sued out-least 3 times as of 2019. An 8hp snowblower engine might be putting out 8.25 ft Ibs maybe more than that, but they run at 3600 rpm and there much larger engines. So you’re wrong, according to the data published by Tecumseh themselves. At this point I’m done arguing this technical mumbo-jumbo. Because in all honesty that’s all it is to me. There small engines made to cut grass as long as they run and get the job done, who really cares what rpm they set them at or what ft Ibs torque they’re creating. I really don’t, as long as they run and sell that’s my primary concern. Unless you work in a laboratory or are a myth buster, who cares? Plus I’m confident everything you stated was wrong or made up now because the chart is right below and they don’t get to 8.25 ft Ibs, not even close. The chart doesn’t even go to 8. You well over rated it. Do your research and make sure it’s correct before you make a comment with false information, especially with an I’m right your wrong attitude smirky attitude about. It makes you look uninformed and cocky in the end and nobody has time for that. images.app.goo.gl/XBfLXJ6VfhuJf1bh8

You did it. You faced adversity over and over again, but you didn’t give up, you kept getting back up until finally becoming successful. That’s the key to life, when thing’s don’t go your way, even multiple times in a row. You keep pushing forward and eventually thing’s fall into place. Those who fall and get fed up and never attempt to get back up will never succeed. It takes persistence and action to eventually ultimately succeed. Never get discouraged, or petty and never listen to someone else’s negative opinion about you. Who cares what other people say or think of you, what matters is what you think and feel about yourself. Stay positive, keep pushing and eventually you thrive proving the nay sayers wrong, not that it matters, you have proven to yourself you are an ambitious successful individual and despite adversity overcame it. We’re all people, all equal, some people have better skills in one area than others, but we’re all equal. Once you overcome that and are successful, you have found the key to life. Challenge’s will always come, it’s how we react to them and what we do about them that makes all the difference. Keep moving forward! Glad things are going well for you now.

@@robertmailhos8159 Normally they would but those two are about to snap, so they gotta go. Yea it’s getting its proper walbro back, the Nikki doesn’t work properly on these, air filter housing stops the butterfly from shutting all the way for choke and it is causing the choke linkage to bend and stick now and than. It runs properly with it, but without an air filter properly on it and the butterfly moving freely it defeats it. Walbro or the old one piece Briggs flo jets for these flatheads.

@@Mr_Tecumseh you got that right @Mr_ Tecumseh my 1985 series 5 extra tuff model rear engine snapper mower.has a 13 h.p.tecumseh Enduro x l I/c engine on it the original one was a 11 h.p Briggs and Stratton engine i.c with the exhaust valve rotator I did not check the oil in it One day so it went out with a broken connection rod

Yep, low oil or not changing it is about the only way you can take one of those engines out. Got lucky with this one.

Thank’s, good to be back!

That’s awesome. Maybe I’ll get a contract like that someday. Nice work!

Thank you and you as well!

Great, thanks for asking? You?

@@davidcoudriet8439 I'm getting ready to order the clutch break tension spring for 8 poulan XT mower transmission

@@SuperKONR I’ve seen a few, a few older Toros come to mind, they were neat. They were around awhile in the 70’s-80’s. Not sure why they stopped making them that way, but starting a fire is definitely a good possibility. Also the muffler getting clogged not allowing the exhaust to escape damaging the engine would be another good possibility. It was still a cool design though. If they had added some kind of shield to stop both of those from occurring it would have been fine. It was probably an added maintenance procedure to keep them clear that got ignored by most that put that to an end. Also updated designs of the decks by the manufacturer where they didn’t wanna be bothered having to allow an opening for the exhaust to go down. Either way, you’ll never see anything unique like that ever again. Side or bottom, they were good engines.

They don’t carry it at Home Depot. Go to Autozone it’s GM 2002 Buick dark polo green it was used on cars like the lasabre. It’s a direct match. 14.99 a can, cheapest you can find it.

@@Mr_Tecumseh Thanks

@@billwelch9431 Nothing Briggs makes today is as good as those older engines except actual Vanguard commercial engines. The Quantum came out in 1986, a period when everything Briggs built was of industrial quality. Most of those old industrial grade engines will beat the snot out of a lot of today’s vanguards. There Overhead valve engines. The Quantum was a flathead. Besides them wearing out faster and components failing more frequently, you have the added job of resetting valve lash every so many hours. Carbs and fuel systems are jetted far leaner so they never see there full potential and they’re more prone to clogging up than the old ones requiring more frequent taking apart of carburetor to clean it. Power wise, same, flathead probably edges with a little more grunt and less restriction of fuel, more enclosed head, harder internal explosion.

@@Mr_Tecumseh thanks for the explanation bud. It's too bad.

@@billwelch9431 It is too bad, but it’s everything we buy now. America has done been sold out. Corporate greed was our downfall.

@@jdub976 Good question, not sure and I just tried looking it up. Couldn’t find any information. If I had to guess, it probably stands for simplistic since it was an easy to use hydro model. But it could mean anything or nothing at all other than another letter to make it seem fancier than just LT. It could also stand for special, suburban or super. Sears used the term super on there suburban line for a little while. Simplistic or special would my two best guesses at it. They made one called an LTX as well not sure what that means either, extreme maybe but who knows. It’s all just part of the advertisement game anyway when they sold new.

@@Mr_Tecumseh Thank you. I'm just gonna call it the "Special edition" lol

@@jdub976 Sounds good. I like it. 👍

@@rogerzindler8144 Thank you!

@@dantegoth1 Not long, it was in descent shape when I got it. I think the deck was repainted and the wheel weights. Past that a full tune up and wash and she was good to go.

Yes. I would. Reach out and let’s arrange it.

@@Mr_Tecumseh 😃

@@13612 Yea that should be it, 7=1977, 277=277th day. If it has points it’s definitely ‘77, if it has a modern coil above the flywheel it would be 87. Not sure What 0 is standing for at end or the V50 number. But 7277 is for sure.

@@sparkplug5481 Living life to the fullest. Not making videos right now. I’ll be back in the future.

@@markdufrene2443 It’s been 2 years since that video was taken. Doing 100x better than I was then, but thank you for the words of encouragement. I would try and find one complete with a blown motor or something cheap and get all the parts you need that way. Good luck on your project. 👍

@Mr_Tecumseh wonderful man we have to speak Outlook the shit we need to do.too many of us getting to far down the rabbit hole.

@markdufrene2443 I think a lot of people fall into slumps, but ultimately come out of them. Like baseball players. However if your not coming out of a slump, than you need to go step further to help get out of a slump.

Yea, but when it gets’s like that, cut your losses. I was able to remove all self propelled components and make it a nice push mower. Ordering the trans for that wasn’t feasible for the amount I would have received resale.

I have a little 3.5 Tecumseh push mower that carves circles around this overweight dinosaur . 😂

@@ronz101 Was it a Craftsman Eager 1? I had one from 1991. Nicest little lightweight push mower I ever owned. Wish I didn’t get rid of it. Even when self propelled is working on those other machines they are still more work to use than those little lightweight push mowers and they were built so well. Most people can’t comprehend that fact. Theirs a video of it up towards the end of my list of videos. But someone took it for $150 so I couldn’t argue with that being a ‘91. It was someone who knew how good they were. After removing all those components off that one in this video, which included the trans, belt, pulley, cables, gears, pieces from the handle that controlled the self propelled it basically turned into an MTD push mower they made but with a slightly more solid deck. Not like pushing a self propelled old Toro with all those components still intact but dead. But I hear you, I prefer lightweight walk behinds over self propelled any day.

@@ronz101 Here it is, like you said, It could run circles around any heavy mower. I could use it like a vacuum cleaner, one arm, boom, boom. Plus it had a Throttle still and I liked the sound it made, mower’s don’t sound like that anymore. I hope I get another one. 1991 and I filmed that in 2023. 32 years old. That’s unheard of from mowers made now. kzbin.info/www/bejne/g3m6foVodsudnrssi=hutQpyi_N9mIYKCe

Yeah. First cousins. Pulled the engine (marked edger) off it's Craftsman edger frame and remounted it on an MTD frame. Winterized properly; it just keeps going You are so right about the 90's timeline and growl.​@@Mr_Tecumseh

@@gedeonclavet2946 Did what?

Thanks, they were well made reliable machines. Unfortunately it was a flip so I don’t have it to check, but I’ll look around and see if I have a record of it someplace. I know it was 917. Just don’t know the last digits at the moment. I’ll get back to you.

Reinforce the box inside with a sheet of steel that bends on each side so the box has strength from the front and both sides and than bolt the winch to the front of the box with the mounting hardware going thru the steel inside the box.

I forget what they did. But 1979 and back that paint doesn’t come off for nothing. 1980 and for about a decade, the paint peels off in sheets. It’s since been resolved but will still never hold up as good as the paint they used from 1960-1979 which I guarantee was lead based.

In is locked. There should be a knob there. If not it broke off or the roll pin holding it on fell off or rusted out. They can seize from moisture and rust, spray it with a lubricant. The knobs have big pins that pop into holes in the rim to lock it. Get behind the rim and spray that lubricant at that pin and on any areas that look like there supposed to move. You can also get behind the rim and take a hammer and punch and tap the pin back out from the hole it’s in on the rim to help knock the pin loose and out to unlock it than you should be able to turn it into the out-unlocked position. Not all Ariens had the differential, some were solid one piece axles but it sounds like yours has it or outleast half of it remaining. If the knobs busted off you can order a new locking hub. Good used ones eBay. Gotta take the rim off and knock the roll pin out that holds that larger piece of the lock out than it will pull off and you can install a new one. Those knobs on those locks have a spring if it wasn’t missing, lube behind that too if it’s there. But it sounds like yours in missing the knob so the pin must be just sitting in the hole of the rim. Maybe you can grab it with vise grips to pull it out to unlock it until you replace the locking hub.

@@Mr_Tecumseh thank you. Ive done some more looking and there are workarounds people have used when the locking knob is not there or it is broken.

@@moviemaker39100 No problem. Without a photo of it it’s hard for me to say for sure. But as far as I know they only ever made that one version locking hub except the really early ones from the early 60’s. But 1965- about 2004 all used that same lock. It changed appearance over the years as far as colors and style but it was still the same thing besides that. After that they went to the machines that have auto turn so there’s no more locking hub on those, but from what I hear they don’t work so well, they can’t hold a straight line like the ones you could lock could. But before that they either had a differential with that lock or no differential and a solid axle you could not unlock, but those just have plastic caps on them. Yours definitely has the lock if it says in/out. But back then the lock was there more for attachments like the mower that had to be able to turn free so you didn’t tear up the lawn. When I use mine in snowblower mode which is all I have now I just keep the thing locked basically all the time. It is nice to be able to unlock it to move it around if you need though. Your knob must have broke off it, because I recall it breaking off mine once and I ordered one used on eBay and replaced it. They’re cheap enough and they have every style of them as far as the colors and writing went on there. I have a 1987 Ariens that has it, same thing just looks different in appearance (color, writing). Take the 3 bolts off and pull the wheel off you’ll see it better. Then you can get a hammer and a roll pin punch and knock the big roll pin out and pull it off. After that you can replace it and you should be set. I have an extra one, like the one in the video sitting around now. Here’s my ‘87. It has it too, different color and decal but otherwise the same. May be hard to tell, don’t know if I got close up on it in that video. But that lock was around a long time about 40 years or so before they moved on. If you want some photos of the one I have off to show how it looks intact and how it works, leave your email and I’ll send you them and than remove the contact info after I got it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fnyweZp3qribqs0si=wGY9d0KI9VtpSM1i

It works for flipping them. How long did it take before it fell off? Did you shake the can and spray they patch liberally cuz once it’s on, it does not come off, if it fell off right away you did something wrong. Cuz if you get that stuff on your fingers the only way it’s coming off is with sandpaper. If it’s your machine get out the needle and thread, I have, about 1000 times now. Not sure what you mean by mentioning the lubricant WD-40 a lubricant on a video about adhesives.

People keep complaining about it. Unless you wanna pay sears $60 bucks for 1 can of there spray paint which is still available on the partsdirect site, that’s about a closest match your gonna get. I know I’m not giving Sears $60 for a tractor I’m flipping. I’ve touched up a few of those tractors with the above mentioned paint and had no issue blending it into a match to where it was un-noticeable. I repainted this walk behind completely with it and you couldn’t tell it had been repainted unless I told you and even then, it looks stock. Try automotive brands or others, if you find a dead on match at $10 or less like I was let me know. Here’s the push mower. Looks stock. kzbin.info/www/bejne/g5ilpGesrJl2aqssi=uK_CYt7D0LHo7hP-

Commentor down below says Buick polo green. Older 90’s car. If you can find that stuff then there ya go. If you do, it’ll be a 12oz can of duplicolor at $15.99+ tax, but if you need two cans you’re already at $32. So use it sparingly, those 12oz cans don’t spread far. My option worked for me. If you want it perfect, for like a personal machine might be worth getting the Sears paint but for flipping, the name of the game is keeping costs to a minimum and saving as much time and turnover. So if I can get the paint to blend and it’s not noticeable which it hasn’t been and the tractor sells no problem, the end goal was met.

Two home runs on the Yankee’s side. They’re looking good this year, records 48-13, leading the MLB in wins. 👍

Thanks, doing great. Seats were great. Awesome experience.

I sold it soon after filming that. I know it went for descent money. Those were well made machines. Thanks for the comment kind remarks.

Really? Because this Craftsman Push mower was painted with that Duplicolor and it looks as close to stock as you can get. If I didn’t just say it was repainted you wouldn’t know. Maybe your color blind. kzbin.info/www/bejne/g5ilpGesrJl2aqssi=bCYEkIigEwzsfvXg

What? The nuts are holding it snug to the engine, plus it was a work in progress. Go to the final video on this series.

No problem