Thanks for watching and the sub, make sure to come back when you can.

I have a few reasons for running short bars some mentioned in the video some not, wear and tear both on me and my saws is the main one. I don't like dragging around a saw in brush with a long bar like I said the other is the added stress it puts on the whole saw from crank bearings to the clutch, not to mention the anti-vibe mounts which take a beating. What nobody mentions is on some saws like the 371XP's and a few other brands is the added stress on the crank case's themselves like cracks around the bar studs, yes the use of long bars will eventually lead to this not always but I have seen it. like you I don't feel like spending big money on a long bar and they are expensive, in my market a 28''-32'' light bar are $200-$250 vs $60-$70 for a 16''-18'' bar along with chains costing twice as much. Thanks for checking out my channel the comment and subscribing.

Just doing what I normally do if someone can glean a bit of info from that and it helps them out then it's a plus. Plenty of content of all kinds coming up, glad your enjoying it.

If I understand what your asking the right way, I did not take apart the pressure piston or relief valve side of the pump just separated the two sides to reseal it in the center where it was leaking from. Pressure piston side is the front of the pump where the input shaft goes in, relief valve side is at the back of pump they are all cartages that bolt or screw into the pump body and have to be removed one by one if you want to repair them.

Do the best I can and try to enjoy my time out cutting when I get the chance, the old skidder was a long shot if it would work when we put it together but work it has season after season it's stood the test of time; it's a one of a kind that's for sure.

@@StuInTheSticks right. That's all a person can do. And the skidder you're right about that too. I enjoy your videos

Thanks, just a small part of the skill set my Dad taught my Brother and myself on fixing and fabricating.

@@StuInTheSticks that's great. I wish that I spent more time with my grandfather than what I did. I learned a lot from him but I could have learned more if I hung around more. My dad was never in my life

That bluff of trees I cut my way through was all full of twists and crucks making them hard to deal with all the way. From when you drop them bonce up or sideways at you don't want to skid proper can't get them to pile proper then pinch your saw when you go to buck them no matter how you go about it. Saw has done very well considering what I had to work with when I put it together.

@@StuInTheSticks I know what you mean. But you gotta love logging and cutting firewood. I know that I do. So if a person is into that. Gotta put up with that kinda stuff like we do

You take the good with the bad that's how it is with any kind of wood cutting, actually most anything in life worth doing.

@@StuInTheSticks right

If it sounds like a V8 because it is a V8, Ford small block 302 what it was repowered with when we rebuilt the machine long ago.

@@StuInTheSticks that's cool. I've never seen a skidder with a v8. Them 302s are really good motors.

If you have never serviced old style canister filters then you don't know or understand just how clumsy and time consuming they are to deal with, that's why industry switched over to spin on filters.

Well it does sound mean always has, not the toughest machine around but it does okay for what it is.

@@StuInTheSticks if you ask me. It does really great for its age. And it has out lasted a lot of the newer ones

Thank you kindly keep watching there will be plenty more saw repair content in the future.

I'm running 16.9x30 tires it's the standard size the machine came from the factory with, their actually considered pretty small for logging at that but thanks for your concern.

​@@StuInTheSticks Same thing with my chainsaw, Husqvarna 281XP, came with a 36" bar totally safe. 😃👍

This isn't the 365 which is still running great but rather this one's the 362 very similar saw it's also turning into another solid runner. Both these saws are great runners actually considering that they started out pretty much from dead parts saws with not a whole lot of money into them.

@@StuInTheSticks right. That's the way I am. Don't spend much money

Yup whenever someone is doing work in an area with a backhoe then all of a sudden all the neighbors have things they want dug up lol.

@@StuInTheSticks right. I'm a good ways from you anyway. But I would like to get a backhoe one day so that I can get ride of some stumps and clean out my creek that's behind the house

@@joeyrector1015 Backhoe's are one of the most handy machines around, well at least for me that is. I have found myself using this thing for a lot more jobs than was ever intended around my place but then I do a lot of different things so it's worked out well for me. There will be some more content coming up in the future at some point with me actually digging with the hoe itself why I have never posted any before really don't know lol.

@@StuInTheSticks right. I'll be waiting for them videos to come out

Well according to a couple of tractor parts suppliers and a shop that repairs Deere tractors that I talked to before I started this repair, the pump that I'm working on in this tractor is the exact same pump used in a bunch of John Deere tractors of that era. How easy or hard it's to get one of these pumps out of a Deere tractor I couldn't tell you because I've never worked on a Deere of this era, but seeing that they used the same pump set up then I'd say John Deere wasn't that smart either using this system.

Same type of Pump( Rotary Piston Piston) different style drive, different mounting,,, They used this system in the 20,30, 40, 50, 55. and 60 series I have changed a few pumps in different series, and the heaviest item is the fuel tank.... Sheet metal is the most time consuming,,,, We operate a rebaleing business and One old 4020 provided the 12v electric, PTO, and hydraulic power to operate a complete Simpson round bale unroller system, a 5070 New Holland Baler, and a 200 Bale Bandit bundler..... Same 4020 now provides 12v, and Simpson hydraulic power But a Marcrest PTO hydraulic unit in between the tractor a baler(1000 in 540 out) drives the baler and 5250 Bale Baron

@@farmingforfunandprofit940 They all have their good and bad points it's never a good day regardless of brand when major repair's are needed. On some thing's like sheet metal like you said it takes time on the Deeres on these Massey's it's only a 15 minute job to strip it down very simple lay out, on others doing clutches can be done fairly easy yet on others they can be a real pain and takes a crazy amount of time. We run what we like and a lot of times it's what was available for sale at a decent price for most people.

The 272's are good runners not real hotrod's but just stable long term saw's. Anytime your lucky enough to find a pro grade saw that was owned by a non pro user that's seen little use is a great day when you can bring one of these home. I have been on a bit of a tear this past year don't know why but I keep running across low hour pro saw's in like new or some almost in off the shelf brand new condition lately and yes my will power is very weak around these deals, even better when they sell very cheap lol!

These 300 series saw's are pretty easy to repair or rebuild, a refresh will give them many more years of reliable service drop a new piston in them and you'll be good to go again for a long time.

@@StuInTheSticks right. I'm definitely going to have to do that one day soon

Thanks for letting me know on the Golf piston option didn't see much of anything available for these saw's mostly because when there's a top end failure everyone just swaps out to a 365 or 372 upgrade, even Husqvarna has that as a repair parts offering in the IPL's. Yes these saws didn't see the sales that Husqvarna had probably hoped for but they were around awhile in the line up on offer.

I managed to only get pinched one or two times per load on this run so not to bad for how long it's been since I've worked a pile. I had the chance to go full mechanical logging years ago but for whatever reason backed away, you know "go big or go home" a month later the mills shut down for a very long time; good thing I went home or I would have gone broke. Who knows if the right equipment at the right price comes along never say never!

I don't follow any real kind of degree guide I sharpen to the wood species I'm cutting hard dry wood gets a different touch then clean green "sticky" sap laden wood or frozen wintertime wood, it's mostly by feel at this point but I've been hand filing for 30+ years now. I'm still no expert have never claimed to be it just comes as second nature when you do enough of it though. I don't much care for any of the safety chains no matter the brand just run what I have around to use up some of this stuff. My favorite .325 chain now is Stihl's rs pro thin kerf chains but you have to run them on thin kerf bar's, very aggressive fast cutting chains you get there in a hurry. If cutting dry crusty pine then I touch up every tank otherwise if in green semi-hardwood then only a touch here and there after two to three tanks.

@@StuInTheSticks yeah. It came with the saw. Got to use it up. Also for me at least on my light saws we do a lot of chainsaw construction. I've found we can control our cuts better with semichisel. So I always keep one around for that work. Also I can never leave well enough alone. I'll find something that works good. Then I get bored and try something else. Usually fails. I'm an idea man lol. If my funds were unlimited the woods around my house would be littered with failed projects and very few successful ones lol.

BBR may have started out spreading that message but at some point it turned into something else with him sounding like a broken record, then something else happened all the copy cats started pushing this and there's the problem. It's some of these other "followers" of his gospel that take it to far and at certain times he's been no better himself with the poking and yes at times mocking of the vast majority of people who run a regular chainsaw bar setup in areas that don't require a west cost fallers rig. That also goes for saw's with the full wrap handle that these guy's are also telling everyone they should have on their saw's, you then also have to make high stumps because guess what yup you should or can only make Humboldt face cut's because of that full wrap handle. Well let me put it in simple terms anyone can understand, in my area where I work it's the law to have low stumps 12'' or less. I'm not just saying that it's written into our forestry act and is enforced here by my local forester's and the teeth of the law the conservation officer's. These officer's make random visit's to check on you and your handy work, I'm operating on public owned land's and I have operating permit's to follow. Don't follow the rules I get shut down, they cancel my cut block permit my operating permit and my on site work permit. Then come's the fine last I checked they can start at $10.000 an up, then the corrective work order wait for it; if you don't want to bend down the first time around then your going to be recutting hundreds of stumps on your knee's. Last time I checked you don't get paid for recutting stump's. I'm not as young as you may think I'm pushing 50 and my body's been hurt in the past, I have damaged shoulder socket's bad knee's and lower back pain; most of these injury's happened outside of logging. I have tried longer bar's simply don't see what all the hype is longer bar/chain = more weight I can also get a 16'' light weight bar so a 32'' is just twice the weight, simple math that and the extra weight just hurt's and yes I've "hipped" the saw around on my leg heavy is heavy. I don't work with brush and stick's under my feet that's the best way to get hit from not being able to get away from the stump. Funny little fact everyone say's to run a long bar then you don't have to cut from the other side if you get a really big tree, what do you think their doing on the west coast. I see these guy's with mostly 32'' and some with 36'' bar's and what are they cutting? 5' 6' 7' old growth timber and how do they get it cut? yup cutting the low or far side first then coming around to finish their cut. When it comes to bucking these monster's what do they do? yup jump up on top and reach over to get the far side then if that doesn't get it done yup again jump back over to get the last of the far side; I don't see those guy's using 7 foot long bar's do you? So there you go hypocrisy at it finest people, and I get called out for showing what I do and what works for me and many other's HA! Sorry bud this has to be the longest reply record to date lol! Thanks for being a good sport, take care.

@@StuInTheSticks Humboldts are tough to do on hard wood with round chain. Yeah even if I cut a high stump because it makes sense for that cut. I'm on very steep terrain. I'll cut it low after the tree is down. Now I do like that full wrap handle. The best side of all the trees around ke always seem to be clutch side. I've never walked a tree from the bottom like a I've seen some hardwood cutters do. I wasn't even aware that method existed till a couple years ago. It definitely makes sense when you're doing veneer and all that valuable woods in the bottom. I may try it one day but for now I'm too chicken for that. I see the arguments go back on forth on vids. I think if whatever works for you and your safe that's all that matters. I am crazy curious though if that hardwood walk the bottom method would work on those big fir and redwood. As to their methods out there. It's what they are taught. I think to get certified to cut in areas out there you have to be certified and that's the way they teach it. And to be honest it probably is the safest for their species of wood and terrain and that's why they do it that way. But hardwoods definitely don't act the same in regards to how they fall. If we still had those gigantic chestnut trees of old and sycamores we east coasters might be cutting with long bars too lol.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/n2OknKejqMRnhsksi=sItgOtlgZ2PMl3Cm

There is a series of those. I think that is more less the way they have to cut to be certified.

Yes I understand the way the west coast guy's cut is the best way of getting big unruly tree's down on the ground. The Humboldt is used simply because of the shear size of those whooper tree's, all the stump or root flare is avoided with that style of cutting. They cannot do a standard cut like I do because the saw would be 6-8ft up in the air over their head the Humboldt brings the saw head down to were they can work, this is also why they use full wrap handles. I very much understand the reasons behind what they do and why they do it, but it's also why these guy's shouldn't assume that what they do will work for everyone else everywhere else ie flatlanders like me and other's. That's the rub if you will, don't push your ideals on the masses just because the thinking is what works best for me is what will work best for everyone else. Full wrap handles don't work for what I'm doing it's that simple I have no choice but to cut my stumps low to start with and I don't want to cut stump's twice, if I'm doing that then it's twice the amount of time that I'm bent over it kind of defeat's the purpose. I don't have a great back to start with so I better get as much wood cut in that time as I can. My beef in my video's is not with west coast guy's and what they do it's with a few of these guy's pushing their ideal's on everyone else as the only way to cut, likewise I'm not pushing what I'm doing saying it's the only way that everyone else should do what I'm doing; what I'm saying is we all have to work within our conditions and what works best for the wood we find ourselves cutting doing so in a safe manner. That's it nothing more nothing less I don't have an agenda or a slogan I'm trying to market or sell to the mases. Thanks for the back and forth with me in keeping it respectful to many want to just go the low road nowadays, we all benefit by sharing what we have learned in our own experiences; least that's how I look at it.

If your interested to know I will be showing in an up coming video that a lot of the trees you see me cutting are actually at the end of their life cycle and are dying off, once these trees (poplar) have been cut they regrow from their roots called suckering and produce hordes of new healthy young trees compared to one old sick dying tree. If your not interested and have your mind dead set against this (logging) then I'll make you a deal, you hug as many trees as you can so that way I can cut as many as I can how's that sound; no? yahhh why not.

Trees are a crop if you do not thin them out once in a while, mother nature will in the form of wildfires, at least when you cut them with a saw, you can choose which ones to thin not like wildfires, it will kill everything.

Here where I am west coast guy's would go broke fighting their way through the brush with a 32'' or longer bar cutting small pulpwood, that and try handling a saw with a three foot bar on and off a skidder multiple times a day. This is what works in my area and for a lot of other people not on the west coast, not everyone is cutting 5 6 or 7 foot plus old growth trees. What your cutting is what dictates the setup you run, the issue I have is when big name KZbin star's start criticizing and at times making fun of everyone that runs short bars saying we are all wrong and their right. We all run what works in our own areas that's only fair anything other is misleading and arrogant.

@@StuInTheSticks Stu have you ever noticed that them westies are the most opinionated and judgmental guys around ? It's as if they think that trees only grow west of the Rockies. Why are they hell-bent on sayin" they're better than everyone else ?

When I make mention of the long bar debate in my videos I'm not trying to pick a fight with most of the other hard working people in the logging industry, just the few that are pushing their ideals on the rest of the world by way of their KZbin channels. These guys get really pissed off if anyone even asks them what's wrong with using short bars vs long bars, then turn around and yes I've seen them start mocking people who use short bars. That's just plain arrogant a-hole behavior on their part. I'm not mocking west coast wood guys in my videos just stating fact and fact is there's more people using short bars worldwide then any other cutting setup, it's also more cost effective not as hard on one's body and it also puts less stress on the saw's themselves ie crank bearings anti vibe mount's.... well everything. This is what I use in my area because it's what work's best here, no I wouldn't try cutting an old growth 6ft + dug fir with a 16'' bar I'm not that dumb but how dumb is it to use a 36'' bar to cut small pecker pole pulpwood.

Ya the chaps are kind of el-cheap-o but better than not wearing any that's for sure, but the price was right lol Like I've said over and over we all have to run a bar setup for what kind of wood your cutting not a one size fit's all, that's my point. Everyone get's mad now if you say otherwise you can only run long bar's no exceptions, trimming your hedges in your front yard well you better get a 592XP or a MS661 with a 42" bar or there's something wrong with you. Tool for the job.

Their simple design was a big factor in why they lasted so long, that and back when Briggs an Stratton made some tough engines.

@@StuInTheSticks yes and still can get parts use mine for my back up mower I found a deck years ago the man I bought the deck from he got it from the Murray factory in Lawrenceburg Tenn some they had left over

This wood is being cut on public land's what is called Crown land owned by the province where I live, in my home province we have what's called a timber quota system controlled by the province. Timber quota is the total annual allowable cut volume that can be harvested on a sustainable basis, to have access to this share of "quota" you have to buy into the quota system in return your allocated a fixed or set cut volume every year based on how much quota volume you own. There is no new quota given out you have to buy someone else's share to get in when they want to sell out of the system. The quota is for however long you want to own it, once your in your in so to speak that's why it's so dog eat dog the big player's don't much like small guy's in the mix and they will play dirty with small guy's like me to get ahold of your quota. The mills don't pay near what they should so it's not a big money maker like people think, I have to really work for my money like most in this industry do on thin margins. That's the logging game everywhere nowadays it's about pumping out high volumes of timber to make a buck, I'm not one of those big volume logger's but I can survive by being small with not much equipment so my overhead is small as well. Reason I'm cutting this wood for an OSB mill is there's two OSB mill's that are fairly close to me compared to a pulp mill, there is one pulp mill that I could ship to but they are hard to get a contract with are further away and only pay a buck or two more per ton; so this is what I do. Sorry for the long winded response but it's hard to explain in any less way, I do my best to stay safe but yes there's always dangers awaiting you. Thanks for checking out my video's and leaving a comment.

I'm not reading from a scrip or plagiarizing anyone else's past flap trap from old website's or other KZbinr's, this video is a "detailed overview" of the saw's themselves in this whole series or family of saw's it is NOT a detailed IPL part's list breakdown. It's a working "hobby" and my passion that most people not into saw's don't understand. Unlike most that just like to run their lip here on KZbin I actually own run and have worked on most all of these saw's mentioned, only a couple of saw's in this family I don't own YET! Have spent my life working with and on saw's cutting a lot of wood that have paid many bill's over the year's, so I speak from real world experience not just hollow talk bullshit; I walk the walk not just talk the talk. I have boxes full of part's from other people's wrecked saw's so I know what part's are used in what saw's. If you want to see me working on saw's I have plenty of content coming up, have not posted much till now on saw building because of this type of attitude and the saw building pissing contest here on KZbin every time you post a video about such. How do I and everyone else here on KZbin know that your not just another keyboard "expert" running YOUR lip?

Like the video title say's, it was made by International Harvester their logging equipment or skidder line was called paylogger and this one is a model S7. Hope that's answer's your question, thanks for checking out my video there's more to come on this machine so stay tuned!

How's your 380B jack been working for you? looked like a pretty nice machine. I seen a video you posted when you first got it awhile back, I never kept up on your video's since.

@@StuInTheSticks it was a great machine… but I grew tired real fast of dragging cables around all day long and jumping in and out of that machine 100 times/day. It’s a Great concept but it’s a poor amount of time wasted in fighting choker chains/choker cables and just adding to the overall wear and tear not only physically on my body but mentally too. So I ended up getting a John Deere 648 g3 grapple with a winch and I love it!👍🏻 I can do a much better job select cutting and managing the job I’m working on much better than being limited to only a cable.

I meant to say like fresh eggs. And I like your table. At least you don't have to worry about it rotten

Plenty of crowing goes on around here when I have to fix thing's that break down and I nearly lay an egg myself when I see the cost of part's these day's lol. Yes that table has been very handy over the year's for all the homestead related stuff.

@@StuInTheSticks I know what you mean about having to fix things. That can be a major pain. I was cutting some firewood a couple of days ago and one of my saws wouldn't crank until I got home. And the other one was running and cutting fine and then just up and quit. I'm glad that I have 2 saws. And about the table. I got one that I need to finish up.

Best part of a stick measure is the price compared to a spencer tape at over a $100 that break fairly often, break my stick go around corner of the pile cut another one; that and the stick is actually faster to use in short wood. The 365 has been doing very good for an old tired saw that had it's issues when I brought it out on the saw table, it has done far better then I expected it to considering what it started out as.

@@StuInTheSticks right I do agree with the stick. And on the saw. Like I said it seems to be doing really good. I came up on a deal a couple of weeks ago. A guy wanted two ricks of firewood and he gave me 5 Stihl chainsaws. I got 4 to run. I sold 3 of them and kept one

@@joeyrector1015 Now that's a deal! very not bad.

@@StuInTheSticks right

The thing of it is you can't have anything today without somebody tampering with it.Can you imagine taking the Tire Chains Off Put it in neutral and pushed it into a pond with a truck. Unbelievable😊

Yes that's my biggest fear is having my equipment vandalized it's happened to other contractor's and friends in my area over the year's. Have seen everything from the filling of the engine compartment full of sand on one friends skidder yes they opened the hood then shoveled it full to the top, on an other machine they poured several gallons of old dirty anti-freeze in the guys fuel tank. I could go on there's many more stories some worse some less but all had nothing to do with kid's it was adult's with a chip on their shoulder in life and the little green monster got the better of them, they couldn't keep their mouth's shut and someone brag's to someone else we all know those type of people; and no the guy's that had this done to their machine's never done anything wrong other then work hard to feed their family's. They never even crossed path's before with these trouble maker A-hole's. If all they do is steal a few tree's I can deal with that so long as they leave my machinery alone.

That's right they kind of slowly disappeared from the landscape at one time you could find them everywhere or someone who had one. They are small lightweight machines so they fell out of favor with the push for bigger bigger bigger pull more wood machines, now these little skidders are actually very sought after again in small scale or select cut operations. Like the saying goes what's old is new again, who would have known.

Still having way to much fun with the old Farmall every time I run it that one's my baby, as far as the dump trailer that thing's in constant use around here hauling compost/firewood/gravel/ yard debris. It has been since my Dad and me put it together from a pile of junk more than 25 year's ago, sorry but your going to be waiting a long time hope your patient man lol!

@@StuInTheSticks I bet. You and your dad done a great job on building it. Love your videos. And you're welcome

Spring/summer time their slimy and will slide out of their bark I try not handle them to much to keep the bark on them, then in winter they become icy slick like frozen fish but their easy to skid then.

That whole family of saws red or orange are simple to work on and just very dependable in a production setting, true workhorses to loggers everywhere.

Yes it's actually pretty decent timber for my area so it's worked out well in this cut block.

Stu: I am from Oregon, always.. It is pronounced Ory-Gun. And I have plenty of the last.

920's are a beast of a saw not the fastest around but they pull for day's. I actually have one in my collection but sadly it's got a roasted top end it was my uncle's saw so one day it'll get a rebuild, just as a play saw to heavy otherwise but they are a very nice running saw regardless. Thanks for stopping by the channel and for leaving a comment, I love these saw stories you folks share.

Thanks I'll keep it in mind next time I'm installing a new Orygun chain, must be a reginal thing like in some areas people say creek while other's say crik as in a water course. I've been known to say "Y'all take care" instead of "you take care" even though in my area everyone says it the last way lol!

Taking the video is the easy part I just turn a cam on then go back to what I was doing, all the step's in uploading data from cam's to computer then sorting editing processing storing then finale upload to KZbin title's playlist's checks rechecks then publishing; that's the short list I'm leaving out a few more lol! All in all though I have fun with it and I'm planning on doing a sit down video explaining some of the why's I started doing KZbin coming up in the future here, kind of an inside look of who StuInTheSticks is after doing this for a little over a year now. A 250 deere is more than capable of turning most tree's into toothpick's, I'm not aiming to totally limb out a tree with what I'm doing just get a bunch of these unruly branches down enough so I'm not fighting with them tipping back on me; but hey if you have the machine to knock out most of it then the more power to ya. Thank you for being a supporter of my channel by watching subscribing and your return visits to this very comment section it truly does mean a lot when you and all the return KZbin viewer's come back here on a regular basis, thanks everyone!

Maker's of these tool's back in the day just plain got it right, 100% agree with you.

There's no reason why it shouldn't work in fact the more attachment's you have for a hoe the better they are on these type of job's ie if you have a thumb it work's pretty good the best is if you have a grapple on them. Plenty of video's here on YT of guy's hoe chucking wood and by the time they get it bunched up most limbs are busted off, just nub's and knot's to trim. Even if all you have is a straight bucket just running it back and forth will break a lot of limb's off. Nothing wrong with trying out different method's if it make's the job and life a bit less tough, good luck hope it work's for you.

Yes it's warmed up a lot here snow is long gone now I'm about three week's ahead or maybe it's behind lol in my video editing, what I'm trying to say is this footage was taken three week's ago there I think I got that straight phew!

There was some really great tool's being made at the time, another one is Bonney tool they made some really nice double box end double open end and combination wrenches in the sixty's and seventy's. They had a nice soft radius on the edges feel really good in your hand and tough as hell to boot, I know cause I have a few in the collection.

Yes a great tool co.Have had many for 40 years+

@@jameswhite465 S-k were probably some of the most durable tools around for many year's, some people might disagree but the amount of punishing work they could do and still keep going is hard to argue with.

I can totally relate to what your saying when tool's have been in use in one family for that long they are no longer just a tool to get a job done, they are truly family heirloom's. Besides my dad's various tool's I have a handful of my Grampa's tool's from some of his original Jamestown New York made Crescent wrenches to a couple of his axe's he carried with him all his life as a logger. I'm lucky enough to have found my Great Grampa's broadaxe carefully wrapped in an oilcloth in mint shape handle and all when we tore apart an old fallen down logging storage shed on my Grampa's property a number of year's back.

Sorry I can't stop chuckling at the last part of your comment a little more info than I needed to know there, but getting back on topic yes I also have the whole S-K set's from 1/4'' up to 3/4'' drive. Only bad thing is their all SAE no metric in my set's, metric wasn't really much of a concern back when my Dad bought them in the sixty's; still glad I have them though.

Yes and no have had mixed results on that front if your talking black chrome then not so much depends on who's the maker, if you mean impact socket's stress them on a very hard pull with a long handle breaker bar or use a cheater pipe and they most often peal apart. I'll just stick with my old school vintage stuff it'll outlast me like it out lived my Grandpa and my Dad.