How much battery consumption has with this kit? Could you do a review of the CGS 2.6 laminated kit?

I mounted a Funnyplaying GBC laminated kit in the past with bad results... not very usable with flashcard (brighness changes continuously) and touch sensor with poor touch area. Would you say that the problems have been solved?

Is there a way to give it wireless charging or Bluetooth for wireless headphones?

Does the board fit in the Boxy Pixel shells?

4:30 so bro casually designed and built an entire flasher to achieve almost the exact same thing a regular flasher can do but in a slightly different way for a slightly different need just to make a quick 20 second remark about it only once... I don't think I will ever reach your level of genius.

Do you know if you have to use the A,B and select wires? Could you just provide power to this kit and run it as is I just want to backlit screen I'm not worried about all the other options

Diagram?

Just attempted this, finally, after having the mod ready to install for almost a year, but finding out, with a model AGS-001, seems the back shell for the screen isn't deep enough with the standard screen for the mod to fit without cutting out a whole section for the back/top of the HDMI port to stick out of, and even with that, it's iffy. The RetroGameRepairShop website also doesn't post which models this is compatible with, though I thought I recall seeing it had been compatible with my model when I first researched and bought it. Kinda sad, considering I followed the pics and instruction posted on their website, only to discover this may require more mods, for a thinner IPS screen and maybe a deeper screen case, just to make it fit. Also sad, because the mod itself isn't really difficult to pull of, though the stock ribbon cable is def stretched as tight as I dared just to fit in to the mod board (done as shown in both your vid and their website pics).

Hey Makho, I have done a screen mod a few weeks ago with the new laminated Hispeedido Q5 kits and fight since than with the A+B buttons. I have tested different button sets and membranes and still can't get it to work like the original button press. When I use only a little force to push "A" down it sometime happens that the press is not recognized. When you give more pressure on it, it activates than. I would like to know: Have you noticed the same behavior in other kits? Its like the A+B buttons are not having the responsiveness on the new PCB's than on the original Nintendo Display PCB. I tried the old membrans on the new PCB an it was aweful. The new membranes work, put not as good as the old ones on the old PCB. The funny thing is that the new membranes are working as good as the old ones on the old PCB. To make it short I'm not really happy with the button feeling on the new display kit and cant find a tweak for it till now. Maybe you have more experience with with the DMG display kits. Regards, Patrick

Hi @makho, one question: Is it just me or does Zelda here look less yellowish than on all the other IPS kits? Does this screen has some kind of color correction?

everything went together and worked first try. thank you for your help

So, problem was only in display?

55 minutes and you didn't even show how you assembled the adhesive, screen, or faceplate

I ordered 5 Batteries on Amazon, two claimed to be 1600mAh, two claimed to be 900mAh, two claimed to be 850mAh. I tested them all and the one that lasted the longest was one of the 850mAh ones and one of the 900mAh ones. I don't have any great setup to test the real capacity but the 850mAh one lasted a loop title screen in Metroid Zero mission for 9.5h with the Supercard on an original AGS001 GBA SP with the light on and volume on zero. The good 900mAh one lasted 8.5h and the other batteries were horrible, 2.5-4h tops, also the first one you disassembled here, was one of the 2.5h ones, horrible really.

Any chance you can make a video on how to make a receiver from an phat xbox 360? I saw older videos on it and seeing that alot of red ring xboxs are still floating around so parts are still semi abundant

Super late to this party, but does this mean no more donor board hunting?

Its facinating to me you make really in depth content about GBA hardware and the way you speak reminds me of Deviant Ollam who givrs in depth content about security (lock picking l, RFID, etc.) You share a lot of manirisims.

Please do a fix for the 8BitDo M30 D-Pad.

I just use a heat gun to remove them after adding a little lead solder

Was losing it trying to figure this kit out with zero documentation, thanks so much for uploading this haha

Yes 🎉 i have the good one

This was installed on my n64 and on some games, I have flickering. Do you know why to fix? Thanks

The "40" next to the ribbon harness is a good tell too 😉

The screws that you described the size for is under the chapter "motherboard screws" can these same screws be used for the 2 screws on the aluminum back panel? Also, can they be used for the 5 screws you need for the plastic shell attaching to the aluminum one? Either my kit didnt come with the screws, or I lost them, so Im gonna try and find out if I can find them at home depot, otherwise I can buy them off RGRS, I just dont wanna wait 1-2 weeks.

I bought the same kit and tried modifying it, but I was having trouble because the touch sensor was reacting on its own. When I copied your method of inserting the insulation sheet at 35:00, the issue was resolved. It’s all thanks to you. Thank you!

Great video as I was just looking into these circuit additions for my SP and I'd love to compare this board to the other black color style amplifier circuits im not sure if they are newer and less likely to blow fuses or clean up the audio a bit but honestly that fuse issue probably turns me off from this model amp. Do you have a video guide yet for the black colored audio amp boards? Thanks again and keep up the great vids!

Great video as always Makho! I did have a question in regards to the touch sensors though. I don't particularly care for them and so is there a way to remove it without ruining the ribbon? Correct me if I'm wrong but all the functionality offered via touch would still be accessible if the brightness button is soldered up? Cheers!

Great video / testing. Maybe I haven't gotten to the point in the video, but I noticed the Pocket d-pad keeps going cock-eyed / uncentered - why is that?

Is it supposed to turn off & on during gameplay, depending on button combinations? I'll be playing Mario or Donkey Kong and the lights change, go on & off, change, etc. Did I wire it wrong or something?

I was looking for a video about replacing fuse 1 due to charging issues, and even though it was mentioned off-hand, it seems like the process is similar, and this is one of the best videos showing how replacing the fuse is done. Thanks.

Bump for an older video. I’m trying this tonight!

I need one of these who wants to build me one and how much

What does the one wire you solder onto the board for?

You need to take the shell off the joycon battery so it will fit there is a piece of plastic that surrounds the battery

This is exactly what I was wondering if I could do. I just want a backlite screen for my b/w. My swan crystal is front lite and my wsc is ips.

Cant wait till aliexpress will release a metal shell!

How anoying is that cat

Hi makho. Seems i have your mod in my Advance SP. Maybe you can help cause its broken. Cable from the LiPo named makho is off & a little plate 2cmx2mm is off as well, What can i do to fix it? Thanks for your help!

Thought about buying a new reciver and had the busted one on a eletronics junkpile in the workroom. Watched the video and than gave it a shot. Yup, it works, bridged it too just to see, tho, what type of exact SMD fuse would You consider soldering in to make it a Proper long term fix? Also, thanks for saving Me 30 bucks for some aftermarket piece with fiddy fiddy on the reviews, haha.

I bought two of these one for my wife and me. I own the Analouge Pocket. The Chromatic does GBC perfect as it is meant to be. I am very happy with it. We had zero problems with them. They work perfectly. I have a strange feeling you do not like it because of the man responsible for bringing it to life. Also, it looks like you had already taken it apart and staged this.

The AGS 101 has a big advantage though: It draws way less power than the IPS Mods and you're pretty limited to batteries sadly, since they can't exceed a certain size, unless there's a big big battery mod.

Where do you buy it the display

Would this be able to write directly to a game thats been SRAM and FRAM patched?

Strange. I havent had any of the issues you have had. Completely mint in the box and the dpad feels amazing. No weird inputs at all. I heard it was a firmware issue rather than a hardware issue. Overall im stoked on the purchase.

Yo mahko, do you can provide some help about a ITA IPS GBA? I searched alot over internet and even contacted funnyplaying by email but no luck. My ita screen just have some tons of white pallete yellowed… tried alcool in connection but nothing, do u know what it can be or if even can solve it?

there are some games they have available that im interested but i tihnk i'll follow your recommendation and wait for a hardware revision before getting the console itself. I love having more gamyboy competitor consoles on the market but atp, when i have 5 modded gameboys and an analogue pocket, its not worth buying another console just because its cool and new if it isnt in full working order yet.

I have a cart with RTC and light sensor but i accidentally erased my Boktai save when I was flashing pokemon to it. I am able to SRAM patch the rom and get it working with the cart but I want to be able to import a 100% complete save and I am not sure how I can import the sav file. Any tips? The main visible chip without removing the RTV is Spansion S29GL256

Your nails are soo ewwwww