Uni-T UT61E based on Taiwanese made ADC chip and Aneng based on DTM0660 chip. Both are delta-sigma ADC's, both are very precise. Both are much better than old DT830 multimeter, which is based on ICL 7106 ic.

Hi, your test this device with PC communication software ?? Test onboard storage memory frequencies ??

AN113D vs AN8008 which one is better? please answer me

Do you know how to restart this laptop without the admin password my dad's forgot his password and now he can only access the guest account

Excellent review. Exactly the differences I wanted to understand. Spent hours finding this in other videos and yours was the only one that had it. Thanks!

At time 41m, you mentioned none these 3 multimeters would be OK for 220~240VAC. So… Which one, not as expensive as a Fluke one would you suggest? I’m also a hobbyist, regarding the SAFETY for Household AC line, The Benchmark of multimeters or “22000 count” is just desirable, but not the paramount feature for the SAFETY (I believe we think similarly, not being for our professional need). Also, after some time (4 years), you may have other model suggestions too. Thank you.

Star Wars 😂😅😂. Let the Force be with You!

Very interesting review, comparing both models - emphasizing here the ANENG AN870. Now I need to find your review and disassembly of the Uni-T UT61E. A rare addition on the Uni-T is the USB interface, right?

What about 16e+ vs aneng8009 ?

Looks like small Fluke one...

hello, please send me hex file

It's Effischennssie ... Thank You for your service!

Hi, may I ask what happened in counting the fifties? Lol

Benning P3 is APPA iMeter3. Also APPA iMeter5 is absolutely great and it has NCV plus somr hidden options when you press HOLD and switch this ON. iMeter5 held for 1 or 2 years of constant every day use without any issues.

you have to tune the variable first. you have to search for channels after setting. cd2003gp is a medium quality integrated made in china. Don't expect quality and performance

8:37 min You remove the plastic protective ring between the metal clip and the circuit board. Don't you think that ring was there to protect the underlaying traces from the metal clip scraping on them and either shorting them out or eventually cutting through them... Also mine exact same Benning seems to have a newer circuit board with a different layout!

Can it send out clean HDMI?

Hi, is there any chance/way to modify the ROM, and so this AN870 will be able to produce the Square Wave Output? I can see the LCD display is ready with the Square Wave Output segment... If so, this AN870 will be the best replacement for AN8008 + AN8009.

Does this work on Etepon version ? Also do you have a link of the battery ?

You noted these are fine for non line voltage, which do you recommend for budget meters for 120 and 240 volts? Mostly checking for continuity for my house or 240v welder to measure amp outputs up to 300amps. Thanks for your detailed video!

Now I am jealous 😂😂

I need some of the vgn led screen

У меня оно работает, но чувствительность плохая.

Ware did you get the installation manual. I need them manual.

My choice are Aneng Q10 and UNI-T UT39E+. Both are build around normal traditional package ADC chip🙂Not a fan of compound-coated chip die-on-pcb design!!! Also, Aneng (Zoyi OEM) have a great Aneng 870 with 20000 counts, but with epoxy-coated chip-on-pcb, unfortunately(((

send me one of those aneng, would be nice :) It was quite funny to find and listen someone who forget how something is said on English lang. I am not alone anymore :) nice video.

i would like to see you assemble it at regular time with instruction. you did a lot of things that im totally confused about? or at least do just one led to show how its done. what you have here is almost a waste of time.

Looks like you could fit another battery along side the one you added? Connected in series, with an 8.4 volt charge/protection board would removed the need for the boot (assuming it would work from 8 ish volts)...

nice👍

Mhm so i'm looking for a multimeter. Here's my desired laundry list of features: 1. It should be cheap. I am a broke student. 2. In buzzer/continuity mode, it should not apply more than 1V to DUT. This is important because if you're probing a computer mainboard or a GPU, anything above 1.2V can kill sensitive circuits. Ideally i'd have continuity in resistance mode rather than in diode mode. 3. It should have a snappy, quick buzzer, and it can be fully unlatched, it's fine. So what if it crackles, i want to quickly determine connectivity between points on the PCB, or weed out stuff that definitely isn't connected or shorted to each other, and i want to know if something is peeking through in spite of flux contaminated PCB or surface oxide on solder joints, i can't always trust to get a decisive, lasting contact. I also like being acoustically told just how bad the contact is, i don't think multimeter should cover up filthy probes or bad probing. 4. It should go down vaguely into mOhm range. Measurement down to 0.1 Ohm is no longer good enough, less would be better for GPUs and other low impedance circuits. 5. It should use AA or AAA cells and be compatible with NiMH cells, and they should be easy to replace. 9V is such a hassle, even though you can get a NiMH 9V. 6. It should ideally have Bluetooth SPP profile connectivity. 7. It should ideally have a bar graph, and if one is present, it needs to have a high update rate. One update every 2 seconds is fine on a numeric readout, but anything less than 10Hz is completely pointless for a bar graph. 8. It should apply no less than 3.3V in diode mode, so that LED forward voltage can be tested. Any thoughts in this general direction? I know my desires are contradictory, but i want to see how many can be satisfied. It would be disappointing to get a new device and then just stick to the 20 year old unit because it's actually better. What it doesn't strictly have to do is be rated for high voltages or have blast protection. I also don't believe i necessarily want the auto ranging, though i guess i might get one of those and just see how much or how little i like it. What i have is a hand-me-down old Mastech, which i trust to be HV-safe and blastproof, and it meets points 1 (because i just begged for it and got it for free), 2 and 3. I'm not necessarily fond of its 3-terminal configuration, meaning i have to be mindful of which way i wipe the range switch, but you should be mindful in any case also because of applied voltage. So for example it's only 0.6V in 200 Ohm but 2.6V in diode mode.

Would it be possible to change the display? For example with one from a phone or a tablet. In any case, thank you for the video!

thanks, there's a niche audience for this material, but it's appreciated!

(Efficiency) EASY WAY TO SAY IT (the way I say it -as an American) .. E-fish-in-see efishinsee

Wow talk about fast forward

Thanks

Thanks...does it have a protective plastic over front faceplate to protect it during shipping. I don't see one on mine? Hence, my plastic faceplate has some light scratches.

Would you repair the later DS's? I heard they are alot harder now to fix...

I hope you can help. So far none of my LEDs have lit when tested. The green line on the LED goes toward the round hole and the green line side is up (away from the board)? Am I correct or is that my problem?

How much more junk is China going to produce for the western world to waste its money on??

Good job actually testing/comparing these cheap DSO.

does it sweep??

What are your thoughts on Brymen multimeters?

HAS THE VIDEO MOUNTED ON THIS SOURCE? AND THE SOURCE DIAGRAM?

Save time go to 6:22....before bla, bla, bla

it's Toooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo Long to open the BoX. Read more BooRinG

ebay link for case no longer works. Is it still available?

..nice video

'E' 'Fish' 'N' 'See'

I just got a new shell for my ds. I thought it would be a simple replacement but now it flickers and won’t boot. I’ve rechecked all the ribbon cables too

can i check the code of a remote garage door contol with the frequency mode?