@@denisesoccorsi5006 my pleasure…

They’re not really all that fragile. Problem is when careless people who shouldn’t be walking on roofs go up there for whatever reason & break tiles. Actually, comp shingles are far more durable to foot traffic, but the comp shingle aesthetic doesn’t impress the trendy crowd. Imagine having a comp shingle roof amongst several cement tile roofs for sale in a housing tract. Which ones do you think would sell first? And the industry hasn’t cared to educate the home buyers regarding the less practical nature of tile & metal roofing materials. Everybody just goes along to get along. Not me though… Seems I was born to ruffle peoples feathers.

@@4skinnz Why would the new paper need tucked under the old paper on the sides? What benefit would you gain if you did tuck the new paper under the old paper on the sides? The reason I answer like this, is because there are some exceptions & I want us to think about why we do everything we do, during a repair. Sometimes water flow on the felt paper warrants how we lap the materials, but not in this case. Water typically doesn’t run horizontally sideways across the roof as long as there’s nothing preventing it from running down slope, right? So since any water that might get through the tiles in a downpour is most likely to run straight down slope, therefore there’s no benefit gained by tucking the new felt under the old on the sides. And since tucking it there requires additional work, that seems like a waste of time & subsequently, a waste of the customer’s resources. That’s not the case on the head-lap & foot-lap. Since direction of water flow is typically perpendicular to the head-lap & foot-lap, water threatens to enter through the felt paper here if they’re not tucked or lapped properly. Does all this make sense?

@@RichMartegani I often told my customers to cut the trees back if they didn’t want the roofing repair expenses.

@@RClooney my pleasure

@@trythis2821 Not necessarily “far better” to replace them. I assume you’ve never replaced roofing tiles, have you? Aside from the fact that tile manufacturers change their tile molds very often so customers have to transition out of the old & in to the new tiles, therein increasing costs & making finding old tiles difficult in some instances & impossible in others, when tiles are removed & replaced, they often destroy more of the good tiles that weren’t previously broken before you messed with the broken tiles next to them. Add to that the fact that you have to walk on the tiles & risk breaking more of them the longer you work & you should be able to imagine how tile replacement can easily get out of hand & be a far worse option. Replacing tiles is typically worthwhile if they’re available, but let’s not be naive, thinking there aren’t good solid reasons to go the other route. The questions are… will it leak, will it last, is the cost prohibitive & will the roof look good enough to maintain the value of the house for the homeowner? None of these questions should be taken for granted. There are strong arguments on both sides. The worst view for all of us is to assume there aren’t good arguments on both sides & to try & capture a hybrid solution that solves as many issues as possible under the circumstances & prioritizes the most important necessities of the residence. Theories about things like this are often not realistic, but based upon multiple assumptions that may or may not be true. You simply don’t know until you gain the experience & do the work. Every job is different & includes way more variables than meets the casual observer’s eye. Reality is always more complex than theory & making simple assumptions is a fools errand.

I’m assuming it worked? If so, you’re welcome. Thanks for watching.

@@MrThedocholiday Yep worked great! My harbor freight double sunflower was only working on 1 side. Both sides work again now. 😀

@@jimwhittaker360 Teknetics are so fast that I have to slow down hunting in trash so I don’t get ptsd, because it distinguishes between targets super close together. If that’s not enough, the Teknetics also prioritizes the good targets over the trash. It just runs super clean & fast. Thanks for watching.

@@cartiniw3685 Thanks for watching… I think. 🤔

You can’t nail the last row of tiles back in place at the end, because the nails are covered by the course of tile above. I can do it, but it’s difficult & code authorizes that the tiles be glued in place to other tiles that are nailed, so I’ll typically glue them like code says I can do. They should be glued where I recommend them in this video in order to hold properly.

Wow! There’s definitely money to be made these days in roofing, isn’t there? Anyway, I like all the roof penetrations to be mechanically lapped so they’re water tight with flashings & roofing before any sealant is even applied, but that’s an ideal world & we have to live in the real world, don’t we. So after everything is mechanically flashed as much as possible, I like to use quad OSI for the remaining surface or sub-surface penetrations. Quad OSI can also be painted to match the various roofing colors for an added layer of uv sealant protection, so it lasts longer exposed to the weather. The only exception is the penetrations on the felt paper. For the felt I like good ole tar saturated roof cement. The reason is because the tar saturated roof cement needs protected from the uv rays unlike other topical sealants used on or near the surface.

@@veritasequitassemper8942 Awe… you’re very kind. Thanks friend & thanks for watching.

@@666markyboy polymer… any type of polymer. Used to use polymer & then copolymer, then tripolymer. Now I use OSI quad.

@@rusty-y8r You typically don’t need to seal the nails, unless they are driven too deep through the shingles or below the nail line where they can cause a leak. So just add the correct number of roofing nails across the nail line & move along to the next shingle. If they’re nailed above the nail line they will not hold the shingle properly in high winds. But if they are nailed on the nail line they should never leak & they should hold the shingles in place during high winds - up to 110 miles per hour.

@@epiphgd4302 I use OSI quad adhesive/sealant

You can go with loctite. I just use OSI quad because it works well for all my different applications including roofing & it’s available at a competitive price.

Thanks!

If I saw it in person I could tell you why. Thanks for watching & have a blessed day!

@@Viralsmells That’s classic, my friend. One of the best compliments I’ve ever received. I get the sense you’ve been there a time or two yourself. Thanks for watching & commenting. Have a blessed weekend!

@@KL4life Yes, but it takes a while to drill through an entire row or several rows of tile if the holes are solid.

@MrThedocholiday makes sense. Plus, there's no guarantee you won't break the tile drilling it, too. Love the video I am a subscriber now!!!

Thanks friend!

Yes… I had to prune this tree often, otherwise it would be impossible to get under it to care for it properly. Avocado trees are great at extracting nutrients from the soil for fast tree growth. What they’re not good at is extracting water from the soil. And that makes perfect sense right? Because avocado trees are more tropical fruit trees, they’re from a climate that has tons of moisture precipitation & fewer nutrients in the topsoil due to volcanic activity. So they are used to climates that have a lot of rainwater, preventing them from extracting too much water from the soil in tropical regions where there is excess rainfall. And they have excellent ability to extract nutrients from the soil for growth since typically they live in environments where there are fewer nutrients in the soil because of less topsoil production from other annual plant foliage decay. So they do grow exceedingly fast if they have sufficient water & should be pruned regularly. The reason they should be pruned is similar to why they don’t need extra nutrients & do need extra water… tropical environments provide extra water, fewer soil nutrients & lots of tropical wind that tends to naturally prune the branches. Does that all make sense?

I suppose it depends on how hard it rains & how large the holes are in your felt paper. Tiles are designed to keep 95% to 98% of the rainwater from penetrating through the tiles. And that’s when tiles are installed correctly. If you have holes in your underlayment & it rains hard, 2%-5% of all that rain will penetrate through the tiles & a percentage of that water will also find its way through the holes in your felt paper. The tile is your primary barrier & felt underlayment is your secondary barrier. Hope this helps & thanks for watching.

@@MrThedocholiday Thank you so so much for the response. That is very helpful.

I currently use OSI Quad for roof applications, because it’s available where I work, but any exterior polymer will do. I don’t use silicone because it doesn’t adhere to other construction materials well, & I don’t use anything that dries hard, because I can’t disassemble it again in the future if I have another problem & need to service it a second or third time. You just have to figure out what your specific need is & read the labels until you find what works best for you. Hope that helps.

1/2” plywood or 7/16” OSB 30lb ASTM felt underlayment stand. 8D nails for sheathing 7/8” metal cap galv. felt nails OSI Quad all season caulking 10D galvanized nails for tile Hammer Chalk line Flat nail-bar Saw Ext cord Leaf blower Nail/tool bags Etc. Thanks for watching…

Yes that’s correct. Every new course gets tucked under every old course above. That way if water ever happens to travel sideways, each new felt blanket is water tight in itself. And with something like flat tile where the tiles can actually cause water to run sideways, I like to seal each new course down to each old course on the sides to prevent this. Any higher profile tile typically doesn’t need sealed on the sides of the new felt though, because water inevitably tends to run down slope rather than across the roof like is often the case with flat tile. There are no problems created in the upper corners by tucking the new under the course above & overlapping the old below.

Thank you for the answer👍👍

Yes. When you do literally thousands of leak repairs you get pretty good at recognizing the difference between possible problems & real problems. The homeowner didn’t ask me to look for problems, so unless they do, I don’t go looking for problems unless I see something they’ve missed. Ceilings tell a great story for whether or not there’s a current issue worth addressing. I remember inspecting their entire ceiling in this area & saw no sign of water intrusion or leaks. I’ve got 36 years experience diagnosing, troubleshooting & waterproofing & the customer never called me back regarding additional leaks. Just sayin…

@@MrThedocholiday No leaks is a well done job. I clean hundreds of feet of 10-20yr old valleys. Just a suggestion if ya want more $$$ per tile repair. I show the dirt in a 10ft area once taken apart and many+ neighbors say go for it. $$$$ i should have attached a pic. p.s. est. 1983

Sorry, but I don’t think it needs clips. Your assumption that the repair area can’t come back apart when assembled with glue 10 years later, is dead wrong with the adhesive I use. Done it. Been there, done that. I don’t like assumptions either. They kinda irritate me because they are rooted in a kind of ignorance that thinks it knows better than the ones it’s making assumptions about. You may indeed know something I don’t know, but even if you do, making assumptions about it makes you look ignorant. Ask questions instead. They actually make you look smart & help you become even smarter.

I simply don’t have the time to bring you up to speed on all your wrong assumptions about my video with the evidence required to correct your assumptions. Although I can easily justify everything I did, to explain why after I already explained it in the video, is simply too time consuming. You need to go back through everything you’ve said & challenge what you think & why first. Then you need to ask yourself under what circumstances might what you think be wrong. Then you need to research codes & installation recommendations of various materials outside of your bubble of experience. Ask yourself why do you do what you do & why might others do what they do? If you can’t answer honestly & offer yourself several possibilities for doing something different than you would do, the you haven’t yet understood the complexity of what you’re talking about & you have more work to do in your understanding of what you’re talking about before giving advice to others… especially when being critical of others. Pick one thing you think I did wrong in the video & I will gladly substantiate why I did it the way I did it according to quality & according to local code. But never critique someone else with generalities without knowing the full scope of all the exceptions of your critique & neglecting to scrutinize your own potential misconceptions of the context in which others are working, especially in front of onlookers if you desire to be taken seriously. There are far too many wrong assumptions in your critique & you need to go back & figure out what those wrong assumptions are before correcting my work. I just don’t have the time or the patience to hold your grown-up hand on this subject & address all your assumptions.

@@MrThedocholiday You are at the top of your game. In your own mind. Try waterproofing 36' underground sometime. Be safe and well.

I’m sorry. I didn’t mean to come off salty. Been a little grumpy lately. 😊 But anyway… yeah, this is absolutely the correct way to do tile in So Cal for the last 30 years. And it actually works well when done right. Battens always cause secondary problems & aren’t required on standard pitch roofs. Extra layers of underlayment cause problems also. So one good layer of felt & the tiles installed properly will get you 50 years or more down the road, as long as nobody breaks the tiles from tromping around up there chasing frisbees. 😁

The galvanized felt nails are waterproof in their design, provided they’re installed properly & not exposed to excessive water volume coming through the tiles. The felt nail shank seals as it goes through the tar-saturated felt paper. The large felt nail metal cap helps protect the nail shank seal as the shank goes through the felt. The tile nail shank also seals as it penetrates through the tar-saturated felt paper but because of its much smaller head, it’s not as waterproof & it’s much better protected from large volumes of water intrusion through the tile by the manufacturer’s recommend maximum tile exposure measurement of 13.5” at most. Some cement tile brands have allowed for a 14” weather exposure, but my 36 years of on the roof experience says 13.5” is the real maximum weather exposure if you want to protect your felt paper well & keep those felt nails waterproof also.

Yep. Thanks for watching & commenting. 🙂

I honestly don’t know. Unless an underlayment is designed to be exposed to the weather, I can’t see how it will be any more durable long-term than standard conventional felt if the tile cracks, breaks or slips out of place for some reason & exposes that underlayment to the weather.

@@MrThedocholiday so the installation of the tile is more important than the actual material of the underlayment you’re saying. I suppose it would boil down to which underlayment material lasts longer? I’ve seen the asphalt felt crumble apart after many years.

@@J_bui The standard felt paper will not crumble due to excessive moisture exposure if the tile is installed properly, which the tile manufacturers have made a clear priority from the very beginning. Why roofers continue to wrongly assume they don’t have to follow tile manufacturer’s installation recommendations is beyond lunacy to me. And it’s not like the roofer has to be a perfectionist during the installation in order to achieve this. The tile manufacturers afford wiggle room in their recommendation standards. From what I can tell, most roofers either don’t know what they’re doing or don’t care, or some combination of the two. And I’m actually being gracious in my assessment of them here, because I have had conversations with roofers who would rather brag about their BS installation methods & stubbornly continue them in favor of speed & greed instead of adopting manufacturer’s installation policies for themselves. Quality separates the men from the boys here as far as I’m concerned & a great reputation & quality track record proves who the craftsmen are when compared to the wannabe juvenile braggarts who’s tile installation methods are substandard. Prematurely underlayment failure is about lack of craftsmanship quality during the tile installation & rarely about the type of underlayment itself. I know this for a fact, because every time I’ve seen for myself what you’re describing about premature underlayment failure, I’ve been able to trace it back & show how the roofer failed to install the tile properly in the area of underlayment failure.

@@MrThedocholiday Great answer Dan. We received quotes from different roofers ranging from $4500 to $12,000 to replace the underlayment on a 1045 sq. ft. space beneath concrete tile. Upon inspection during the estimate, the way they laid the tile was without any sealant or glue to really hold things in place originally. The asphalt felt underlayment was able to break off as a result after 18 years. Do you think a difference in price between roofers would signify good workmanship? Appreciate your content!

If I may… 1. Do everything in life with quality first in mind, not quantity, regardless of criticism. 2. Practice doing quality in your work with ever increasing speed. 3. As soon as the quality of your work begins to suffer, slow your speed down slightly until the quality returns. 4. Always keep quality as the higher priority but always challenge yourself to see if you can do it faster without sacrificing quality. 5. Always be honest with yourself & others regarding the quality of your work, so you don’t make excuses & lie to yourself about speed being more important than quality. Otherwise you will make excuses & compromise your integrity for convenience, expediency & even for greed or bragging rights, fame or power. 6. Remember quality & doing things right always comes at a higher cost to you than doing things carelessly or selfishly. Tell me that’s not what is wrong in our culture today & I will have a good laugh while enjoying my quality reputation among my customers. 😎 Hope that helps you slay every job you land & maybe even start your own successful business some day like I did. Blessings & thanks for watching! Sincerely, Daniel

Are you still working there? Looks like some hard work!

From my perspective, if the total value of a coin is in question, doesn’t it make sense to risk sacrificing a portion of that value to have it authenticated either by a coin expert or by scratching an small edge portion of the coin onto a stone & acid testing it?

Good question. No it’s not strange, but it is optional.

@@MrThedocholiday Thanks for your reply! Is it possible code varies state to state? I've never seen it but I may just have not noticed.