@@Joseph-p8d you will have to pull the fridge out of your camper and inspect and see if it is ammonia or gas.

@afamokoye813 I cut it from 2mm thick aluminium plate, x 3 of them.

@malekutumafa5124 It is a pleasure. It is for oil deposits that finds it's way through the system. So that it doesn't get lodged in the capillary tube.

@saidkhalfan3785 It means its partially blocked with oil... you must clean it with a refrigerant flush like in my video

@pafigoro most definitely crystal build up in pipes. Flip it over. And someone in the comments said to use a Orbital sander against the pipes instead of using a hammer. Either or.. Just follow the video

Have you followed my video instructions? Flip it over. Someone mentioned in the comments to also try use a orbital sander on the pipes to cause a harmonic vibration to free up crystals

That Is a fantastic Idea

Good idea, but percussive impacts have a unique effect on structures.

Hi, my please. Nope not at all... Cheers

You clearly don't know how expensive Honda parts are... I found the cheap fix

@@aldovanzyl-jackofalltrades8446 I do - but you don’t have to buy genuine Can get driveshafts over here for £60 each Are they dearer where you are?

More tapping is also good... how ever you feel.

Hi again. It worked!! Thank you so much. Tim.

Hi there , have you tried this same method of flipping it over and tapping the pipes. But your ambient temp would most definitely play a role in this. Because the outside part must be heated first, so that the transition between liquid and gas can take place. Maybe test it inside and insulated building first. Hope it helps! Cheers!

The heating element is losing too much of its heat due to excess cold external temperature. The common solution for RVers experiencing (ironic) loss of fridge cooling because of winter robbing all the heat,er element warnth, is to stick tape over roughly half of the outside wall intake vent hatch openings to obstruct air flow a bit, slow it down from escaping too fast. Or, turn up the thermostat from 5 to 7 during winter, and it's a different value with propane. This tip and other valuable insights found on "John Daniel" Chanel, on the video about halfway "RV Refrigerator care and settings (answers to a viewer)"

Sound like you have a heating problem. You need to make sure your element/ or gas is 100% working. The hotter the heating end can get, the better the cooling side

Dis n relatiewe dik outjie. Hoekom draai jy nie by n exhaust plek nie?

Dis n 60mm jy kan n 63mm cut off insit💪🏻

@@moparguy7100 but why wil jy?

I wouldn't bother with the condenser tray.... the inside pipes is the only ones worth doing. If you compressor is good, but it sprung a leak. You only looking at the cost of the pipes. And obviously your time.....

I have same question to ask and haven't got reasons why

I mentioned it in the description, 1.5 meters long.

Because it's a dual system. Gas prices are rising, and it's more effective using solar power during the day.

Also, propane costs more, is a chore to refill, and runs out when you need it. Elec assists me to keep tanks full for emergency preparedness in event of a blackout. I'll need to use precious propane for furnace, stove, hot water tank. To that end, I'm retrofitting my hot water tank as an electric hybrid. In summer, at home with guests in RV, I can just leave it on, including electric rads and dehumidifier. There's the opportunity to save propane is to use an inductive element as hot plate. There is the potential to run off of the newly affordable solar, allowing us to stretch propane further, to use propane just for heater. Also, sometimes flame won't light, requires maintenance, or is even too hot or too cold, or windy outside. Propane/elec gives redundancy. RV and trailer parks sometimes have insufficient electricity, propane is good then as supplement with 120v. What is exciting is the opportunity to use an absorption process for space cooling using solar collectors designed for sun's heat.

What rating in terms of watts do is it. Can you power the element using a solar battery say 12v100ah

Only a pleasure!

Had a good laugh... lol. Thanks. But for interest sake, how much was the voltage output and globe fitting under load? Did it reach 12v? Also did you check this stupid connection behind the left rear panel?

@@aldovanzyl-jackofalltrades8446 Gooie dag mnr, I didn't check the voltage as I'd most probably blow my self up or give myself an afro which doesn't suit me at all. I'll have to remove that panel as I'd only removed the cover where the wheel brace and jack goes, the module was there. I'm also gonna spray "roer jou gat" on the connections and see what happens. Watch this space...😜

@@Techumsa 🤣🤣🤣 Yeah do that! Lol

Sorry for only reaching out now, missed a few comments! You can buy directly from MetraClark, or Tesco.

Its been running for a few years, runs very well, no issues.

So when it comes to gas, sometimes bad or cheap gas burns black soot. This can prevent heat from transferring onto the metal. Maybe try cleaning it out with a long bottle brush or pipe cleaner. Hope it helps

They are supposed to liquefy again. I don't see why you can't, it might speed up the process.

Hi there. The crystals are supposed to break free by tapping on the pipes. That's why you need to follow my video step by step. Then very import, these types of fridges must be very level in order to work properly. Make 💯 sure its level before plugging in back in

@@aldovanzyl-jackofalltrades8446 Thanks for your prompt response. Yes, I do make sure that the fridge is level. One question about the dislodged crystals whether they subsequently still clog the pipes as they circulate in the system? Is it also possible that high ambient temperature above 32deg C does affect the cooling of the fridge drastically?

@expjw that one of the reasons we flip it around, and gently tap the pipes every 2 hours for 12 hours, and let it stand over night. Then the next moring the liquid will run back down, hence the reason for leaving the fridge for a few hours before testing. Just repeat the process, might be a stuck crystal.

Will try it once more, thanks. I've also read that the ambient temperature might be the cause as mine is rated ST (subtropical up to 36deg C) and not T (tropical up to 43deg C). Summer temperatures here in North Queensland, Australia do get very high.

@expjw lets hope you can come right. Take your time with it. Also make sure there isn't any rust or muck where the heating element slides into.

Dis hoekom ek dit doen. Daar is min mense wat die kennis het, en hou dit toe! Het geleer by n ou oom wat 25 jaar lank Coke se yskaste gedoen het. N regte yskas mechanic. Thanks

Thanks man. Waardeer. Net n plesier.

My email is [email protected] And whatsapp number is 083 333 1006

Not for me it isn't. The majority of fridges I fix are my own. I would rather put pipes that are visible inside the freezer for future repairs. It's way easier that way! But thanks for watching!

If an indicator goes fast, then there is a connection problem. Start by die faded one. Might juts need some contact cleaner or a light sand

Must be switched off, then flip upside down.

For sure, it really helps, and is a cheap and easy fix! Good luck!