Affirmative.

@@A.T.TrailWorks which part of Borneo?

Brunei

I did venture into Malaysia on a few occasions but I only ever built trail in Brunei which is where I was living at the time. Been doing trail design Stateside off and on since 2021 and it has it's own challenges but it's nowhere near as difficult as the tropics.

I’ll have to give that a try as well.

The jungle. Not a place of solace by any means.

@@A.T.TrailWorks OK, yes, obviously there are creature sounds, but later on I pick up a very regular but faint high pitched squeaking. Wondered if it was something to do with your production gear, but I guess it could be some critter. It's just so very very regular, as if mechanical, I really began to wonder about it.

Probably my phone if it doesn’t sound organic. I have partial hearing loss so I can’t hear certain frequencies. Could also be the noise filters that I put over the original audio as well, sometimes that gets squeaky. I need to make an updated video now that I’m back in the States.

Thanks. I think I'll make an updated version now that I'm no longer digging trail in the jungles of Southeast Asia. It's much quieter outside in East Tennessee.

@@A.T.TrailWorks yes please!! I’m doing trails in the temperate rainforest of Alaska and would appreciate any additional info on erosion or drainage. Really appreciated the tip about making sure the tread goes towards the outslope to help with erosion!!

Every 10' to 30' depending on how steep your hillside is, you'll want a piece of trail to dip downwards for a little bit. This is called a grade reversal and it gives the water a chance to go across and out of the trail instead of flowing right down the tread. Having the tread pitched towards the outslope also gives the water a chance to move off the trail but grass and other things can dam up the side of the trail and grade reversals help to insure that water is given a chance to escape.

Everything I know I learned from the International Mountain Biking Association's book called "Trail Solutions". Lucky for you they've made a free digital version with some updates. www.imba.com/resource/guidelines-quality-trail-experience

@@A.T.TrailWorks this is a great resource thank you!! I’ve using this dnr.alaska.gov/parks/aktrails/aktrailmgthndbk2015.pdf and Lightly on the Land by SCA 🙏🙏🙏

I was in Southeast Asia when I made this and I was using a grub hoe, which was the best tool we could find locally. Here in the states I use something similar made by Rogue Hoe. They aren't cheap but they are incredibly strong and worth every penny.

BP Blaster Red Grease. I buy the canister that you're supposed to use with a grease gun but I use a piece of scrap cable housing to apply it to seatposts, threads, etc.

Happy to help!

I should, you're right. They're a massive pain to hoof them a mile into the woods just to make 2 or 3 cuts. There are cutting techniques I don't use unless I'm wearing chaps. But accidents happen and it's best to eliminate any margin of error.

So you dont wear a seatbelt if yer only going a mile or so to the store for just milk and bread?....because its a massive pain?

@@user-pk5yq6qc5k I appreciate your concern for my safety. My apologies for not doing it according to the book. There are cutting techniques I’m not going to do, teach, or mention without chaps because the leg or body would be in the path of a thrown chain or a freak movement of the tree. But the saw itself (unless you put on a bigger bar than the factory did) is designed to not murder the user in those scenarios. The placement of the handle in relation to the end of the bar is done on purpose so that the chain shouldn’t reach your arm. There’s also the bar brake and should be engaged if the saw kicks back as long as both hands are on the saw. You can see in this video, even with those safety features, I’m never directly behind the bar because I don’t have chaps. There is no law that says I need to wear chaps so that’s comparing apples to oranges. I made probably 7 cuts that day. A total cutting time of maybe 2 minutes out of the 3 hours it took to drive to the trailhead, hike in and out, clear the trees, and repair the tread. If you can properly assess a fallen tree, know where the tension and compression points are, and know how to use a saw, you can take care of it without any issue. Yes there are freak things that happen but I think sometimes wearing all the gear gives you a false sense of competence that could lead to the mistakes that necessitated the safety gear in the first place. I’m not saying go out there naked but have respect for tool and the scenario and you’ll survive. Get cocky or overly confident and that’s when you get nipped in the bud. Anyway, that’s my position and I don’t expect everyone to agree with it. My biggest saw mistakes were made while I was fully geared up. I can’t fully refute the driving analogy because there aren’t a bunch of incompetent people cutting trees down near my legs at the same time for a mile. If that were the case… I’d sleep in chaps.

Great idea.

Glad I could help!

Stihl has some other settings that would make it easier to start in hot or cold weather, without having to flip around the air restrictor near the filter in the Echo (their choke is open or closed, nothing in-between). I've never used mine in freezing temps here in TN so I've never needed to mess with it, but in other places the air/fuel mixture will need adjusted based on temp and altitude.

You should look up how ocean tides work.

They do sell a handful of good ones but you're right, you usually have to tune them up and check every bolt before going for a spin. You could also spend the same amount on a used bike shop brand of bike and do the same amount of work... but have a higher quality bike by the end of the day. I have several 90's MTB's that I use for road, gravel, and greenways and I've never spent more than $100 for one. They are bombproof and will probably outlive me. My issue is that some of these bikes are made to look like capable mountain bikes but there will be a sticker on it that says, "Not for Off-Road Cycling". They sell a couple legit bikes but they are hardtails (which is what I ride) and still cost about $300.

@@A.T.TrailWorks i have gone to several local bike shops in my area and all of them sell used 90-2000s bike and not one of them are below $350-400 and the paint is usually shot and you can tell they didn’t even re-lube the hubs or bracket. I am not spending that kinda of money on 40 year old bikes. I’d rather go on Marketplace / OfferUp and buy a used bike and tune it up myself. Or buy a well put together department store bike.

You’re welcome! Glad you were able to glean something from it.

I agree, I'm not a huge fan of wasting things either. I'm also not into over charging people, when I could do this and bring something back around. It really takes just a few seconds to try and a few dabs of lube isn't going to make you bankrupt. Build trust with customers on the small stuff and they'll bring you their bikes for the big stuff and/or buy their next bike from you.

I always try this before replacing cables or housing and I also do it after I replace cables and housing.

Yeah, it's not cheap. Dakine makes one as well, it's a bit smaller and the cheapest I've seen theirs is $180. I've used mine a lot and it does make those long treks or rides to downed trees much more tolerable. It's never fun to be already worn out before you start cutting.

Yeah, people who are always trying for KOM's are the ones giving other trail users bad experiences and makes us all look bad. I'm equally annoyed by riders that blast music on their Bluetooth speakers while they ride. I didn't come outside to get run over and have to suffer someone's terrible choice in music too.

I used a little grinder bit that fits on a standard drill chuck, like someone else had suggested, and it worked really good too. The concrete is good if you don't have anything else around to rough it up.

Squealing brakes are quite common and the issue is almost always solved by towing the brakes. Towing the brakes simply means to angle the pads so that the front of the pad contacts the rim first. In other words, the pads should be very slightly "pigeon-toed"

Glad it was helpful!

Good idea. I have bits like that but for a normal drill. I’ll have to give that a shot sometime. Thanks for the tip!

kzbin.info/www/bejne/eZ_Hm4R3fJykZsUfeature=shared There’s a shorter one for ya.

Sorry about that. You're not the first person to point out the music. I'll do it differently in the future. Thanks for suggestion!

Good deal!

Wow, thanks!

If you have a little wiggle room on your cable tension screws you can turn those (righty tight takes the tension off) at the shifter and derailleur. Make sure you have it shifted into the highest gear (smallest cog which means no tension on the cable). If that doesn’t work you’ll have to loosen the bolt/screw that holds cable onto the derailleur and get the housing back into place. Then you’ll have to readjust the tension to get it shifting crisp again (I have a video on that as well).

If 100% of the cable is crimped onto the derailleur and it's frayed after the bolt then you should be fine. Mine was broken off for a year or so... that's why you can't see it on the Pipedream in this video, haha. You won't be able to route it through the housing if you ever undo it and you'll need to replace it at that point.

@A.T.TrailWorks I had undone it so n tightened it to hard and was using the wrong pliers at first so after you remove it your saying you can't put it back on there if it's frayed ?

Sorry for the late reply. Yeah, you'll have a hard time getting it back through the housing.

I would've told you, "Thanks and keep up the good work."

@@A.T.TrailWorks I love doing trail work

come help me make trails by home house!

Yeah. The Park Tool Pedal Wrench gets you out of the danger zone but I already have three 15mm box wrenches. I could slip a pipe over it and get more torque and avoid bashing my fingers.

I couldn't find anything that would do the job and I didn't have much time to look either.

@@A.T.TrailWorks broad leaves, when it is summer, it's easier. Dead leaves don't work the best.

Glad you found it useful!

Right!? We can always guess but seeing it in action takes away all doubts.

Taking the path of least resistance can sometimes work but if you're eyeballing slopes and such, you'll make the trail harder and less sustainable than you intended. Sketching it out on a map before hand and then exploring will help you avoid getting into situations like this. You'll end up building yourself into a corner with no easy solution out. Option 1: You might have to reroute it before you get to that trouble spot. The sandy type soil is just not going to keep a shape. If you have a long period of dry days it'll wash away with the first downpour. Option 2: If you got rocks nearby, get as many as possible and put the biggest rocks you can find on the outslope of the trail and fill the tread with the smaller ones. Option 3: Which I'm not a huge fan of (mainly for aesthetic reasons), but some people have bagged the sandy stuff in sandbags, big old rice bags, or put tarps over ramps and berms made of sand. But since a majority of the area consists of that sand, it'll just rut out whatever you don't bag or cover in a different spot, so it doesn't fully solve the problem. It also makes the trail look like you're riding in a garbage dump.

@@A.T.TrailWorks Think option 2 is what I'll try first. Though the third seems to have been the go to around here on older trails. The bags are all ripped now and there's chunks of it around, and the stuff that is newer in bags, well, it looks like bags. Actually this morning I did try something else, not sure how it'll hold, but I was able to stabilize the area pretty good by kind of building a crib for the backslope of the main crib. Covered it all with descent clay and it looks nice, and isn't very shifty. Rocks aren't that plentiful in the area but there are some areas where the military made these lots full of non round gravel. So I may try using some of that .

It's not easy. I've been stung by all sorts of things out there. As this video eventually demonstrates. Recently, I was lucky enough to design some trail here in the States. I was able to do 9.6 miles in a few days. I could see for ages and never got stung by anything. I still had similar difficulties with GPS but overall it was a pleasant change of scenery.

@@A.T.TrailWorks 9.6 miles in a few days! I've been working on this trail a few hours a week for two months and I could do it in 30 seconds if I don't crash at the last part.

@@4door2seater88 I was only flagging trail.

@@4door2seater88 To explore that much in the jungle would’ve taken ages.

Shovels are great for moving dirt that's already dug, haha.

Who dis?

You're welcome! I hope it was helpful, that was an extreme situation since I was in the lowland rainforests at the time but the concept should work anywhere it rains.

I use 3-in-1 Oil for cables and to clean chains as well. You can find it just about anywhere from hardware stores to Dollar stores (if you’re in the states). I usually lube the chain with a wet condition type lube like White Lightning, it adds a waxy film that wicks away moisture and keeps things from sticking to the chain. The green bike is a Sirius (4th generation) made by Pipedream Cycles out of the UK. I’m almost positive there are less than 5 in the whole US (& I have 2 of them). CroMoly All Mountain hardtail that can run 27+ or 29” tires. It has aggressive geometry but still climbs really well. It came out in 2014 and was way ahead of it’s time.

That could also be a cable tension issue. Try the lube trick first and if that doesn’t change anything then you can add tension to the cable at the shifter. I should probably make a video on how to do that now that I mention it. Too complicated for text only.

@@A.T.TrailWorks this is awesome, thanks so much for all of the tips!!! And your stand, where did you get that? I am in the states as well.

@@drumdover that was a Christmas Gift from my wife. I think it’s from Bikehand on Amazon. Not sure what she paid but I’ve had it for years and use it often.

@@A.T.TrailWorks sweet! I've seen that one! Might go that route. Thanks again for all of the tips!

Right on! Glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching and subscribing!