For anyone running these year models or even the 2008 on model (I have the 2008 Tribeca), you CAN do it this way, but you really should remove the complete housing because of the multiple wires that can get hung up. There weren't instructions online how to do that, so here goes: remove the TWO plastic clips to the splash shield area below the fog light using a small flat head screwdriver to pry the pins (this will allow the plastic "flap" to drop without removing the whole engine splash shield). Two 10mm bolts ALMOST release the housing; this is where I am adding info. On top is a confusing grey tab that is holding it from popping out. Do not try to lift the tab, it won't do anything. Instead, pry the plastic above the tab where it's catching using a very skinny small flat head screwdriver, and then go to the front of the housing and insert that same screwdriver above the housing in line with that clip. Pry up on the screwdriver with one hand, push the housing towards the front bumper and it will release. Hope this helps someone else. Excellent video!

I just wanted to let you no that your video really helped my brother out his car sounded like it was going to blow up and tried everything to fix it and he found your video and that's what it was and it sounds like a brand new engine now I really appreciate who ever made this video because we were about to put a brick on the gas pedal 😅

Thank you. Greetings from germany

I'm confused, I replaced the Evap solenoid, but it's on the back of the engine, did it last year. worked for 10 months. had to do it again, no help, same year and model, 2 solenoids on the car?

Had a tough time trying to keep up with the shaking, bolts called nuts, move this, unhook that, and calling the center counsel a dash. Thanks for posting the video..

Your favorite Shape is square?

I was here two years ago and now I am back again today for reference 😂

Any chance anyone know how to remove the camshaft position sensor that on the driver side of the car for the 2006 tribeca b9? I know I must tenia cover to get to it but the thing is the cover is hard to remove because of the ac comoressor line being above it

Hi Joe.

The engineers aught to be ashamed of themselves. Thanks for the video.

Thanks for this video! P0324 has been coming up and some worsening ticking noise has started a few months after replacing the head. This is a good, easy first check before a full redo.

I’m about to have to try this myself. I have a 2003 Z4 and the passenger door is stuck shut. Neither door handle works, when you go to unlock it the actuator pops the lock rod up and down 3 times but doesn’t unlock. I’ve got the door card off and have been trying manipulating the cables and levers every other way before resorting to this…but nothing has worked so far. All the cables are fine and manipulate the actuator in what appears to be a full range of motion (checked this via borescope).

anybody know which wire on 5.9? same problems as this 4.7 here.

I replaced mine but I’m still still getting the code p0455 and it’s saying large leak

🇿🇦...fucken disgraceful....why don't BMW...not telling the owners about it!! Disgusting..!@ 🇿🇦

You sound like the girl from big mouth😂

Fixed it! On a Volt. Thanks so much!

What year models does this cover? Would this be the same procedure for a 2015??

Thank you! This is the exact problem I had. 3 speed sensors and even tried a pcm on my witch hunt. Thank you!!!!

This just happened to a friend's 2016 XC90. I thought it was a serp. belt pulley squealing badly at first since it comes from top right side of the engine.

Is there a way to clear the CEL without the switch? The switch in my Samurai is disconnected. The CEL light is on but flashes twice every so often at a specific interval when it is running.

My wife's car 2015 SRX4 got the P0449 and upon googling it. I was led here. I will say THANKS. Many thanks even. I ordered the part not 100% sure on it being the fix. Amazon warehouse deals in Canada had one for 24.78 CAD so we bought it. Just installed it now. I cleared the code and restarted the car a few times. We good. Wife happy. Thanks.

Now it’s time for so long…🎶🎵

Very useful video. As stated in the video, you can take the part off without unclipping the tube or the electrical connection. This makes it easier to fiddle with both connections. The hint about using the small screwdriver to push the safety lock worked for me. You can/should attach the tube before installing the part (as stated in the video).

I was getting a lean code on my XC40, and i noticed that when car was hot, it would not hold an idle.... AT a red light, it would surge slowly from 1000 RPM up to about 1500m, drop back down suddenly, and then build back up again over and over... I changed rear O2 sensor and that code went away, however, im still getting an engine light, and this idle up and down... Any thoughts?

Did the P0449 code clear itself or did you have to disconnect the battery cable or even have to use a obd2 scanning tool?

The worst vehicle you can possibly work on

Does this work on vitara jlx 1995 model?

Oddly enough, mine turned out to be a loose sparkplug. Also, the coil pack had a loose bolt. The noise,(ticking/knocking), only happened, when the engine warmed up. I didn't have any codes, either. Always check the simple things first!

Joe is criminally underrated!! He needs more appreciation for what he did for the show.

I have the same problem i changed abs modual and tipm i will check this next

I have this DTC P0171 but not same kind of thinks same model .

Thanks for this! I can confirm it's clockwise to get it off, which is weird. Also watch out you don't drop any of the dry rotted wire cover pieces in the wiper fluid reservoir (which happened to me)

drone...

Hey man, it's really cute and all but these are tropical birds and should never be in the cold like this. Specially when the temperatures outdoors are at a freezing point or below freezing.

His sounds are so cute <3

"This is not my job, this is the exact opposite of my job" But they love it

this lil shit isnt made for the snow (i guess)

Thanks man!! Got a Volvo s60 25T and need to change this exact bulb. Great solution!!

Don't forget he's also the voice of the little green robot called bot from team umizoomi!

I knew there had to be a way. Thanks for posting.

This looks absolutely brutal!! Do you have a guide on removing the door card with the door shut? I need to get to the lock actuator cable disconnect it and hopefully i can manually trip the door latch.

Been trying to figure out what’s wrong with my Cruze for a year now even replaced the knock sensor. My Cruze makes e same noise so I’m going to check that next. Thanks for the video!

I had the same problem , same wire , thanks , I resoldered it , bam ...fixed

How did you fix the wire I have the same issue found the same wire

I have 'knocking' noise in the engine (Chevy cruze 1.4), this might be the issue? Also, do you have a tutorial on how to remove the valve cover? Thanks man!

Thats exactly what I need it

Thanks for the information.

This WAS at Steel City Con right?

If you’re only changing the passenger side (as I was today) you can also access the bulb from the top by removing the air filter box (see his video on changing out the low beam headlights for how to do that). I was ultimately changing out both the fog light and headlight bulbs on the passenger side, and was able to do both from the top.