@@almurfudd9068 Thank you. It’s a Festool RTS 400

@@Linda-rn7pg I use the black Olfa blades 👍🏼

@@craigsmith9379 can either be a piece of plaster board cut to size or a Gyproc patch repair

Who would of thought 😂 absolutely brilliant idea thank you

@@Steve-so2jm I’ve never had any issues with Valspar premium or the tough matt failing or cracking etc. I’ve only used these two products, never any of their exterior products. But I’ve used the premium for a client who insisted on it and I freshened the whole house every two years. No problems with it at all, just to freshen up. It sounds like it’s reacted to something on the surface or the previous paint.

@@darrenyates4820 Zinsser bullseye 123 or 123 plus. Both are available in a grey, but I’d advise having it tinted to either the same shade of black or ask them to add some black to grey just to make it darker.

@ that’s great thank you very much Jo keep up the great work love seeing your videos 👍

@@MonicaThompson-uy3kv Aqua Guard satin

Johnstones Trade Aqua Guard satin. The primer was Zinsser bullseye 123 in grey

@@JoanneHayDecorating Thank you

Wow ! Looks amazing 👍excellent work , thanks for sharing ❤

​@@JoanneHayDecoratingdid you get it mixed into that colour? Looks great

@@MrDMc1981 yep 👍🏼

@@RBC0405 yeah it has! The Crown extramatt is decent stuff, that’s their version of a low reflective paint. Also Albany AF1 is getting great reviews

@@bunabuna9287 yeah sometimes if it’s looking a bit too polished I’ll rub it over first with a fine grit

@@deborahwilson4914 Arroworthy 👍🏼

@@tonymcgrath8890 I try to keep it as organised as possible, also just makes me feel better 🤣

@@craigsmith9379 I’ve always used festools own, however delivery times and finding a local supplier is pretty much nonexistent. So I was recommended to try the Smirdex abrasives. They look and feel great, yet to test them though. I’ll be reviewing them soon

@@RBC0405 I have, I don’t rate it personally. Much prefer the acrylic durable matt

Thanks ​@@JoanneHayDecorating

@@nataliehayden8330 touch it up with the paint first and allow it to dry, then repaint the wall in two coats as normal. This just means the filler has had an extra coat

@@JoanneHayDecorating thank you for your reply. Is the paint over the filler neat or thinned down? Xx

@@nataliehayden8330 if it’s matt it can be applied without thinning

@@darrenhirst4522 per job

@@firehorse74 always. The first coat on this video was a primer/undercoat the second coat was a waterbased satin

@@umranhu peel stop is just used to bind down old paint edges back to the surface, so if you rake the crack out I’d then use the PeelStop then start the filling process. It’s fine to just use the PeelStop when it’s for cracks.

No PVA needed?

@@RBC0405 Nope, small areas like this just need peel stop if it’s through paint. Any other bare surface, Gardz is a much superior product over PVA. PVA will cause issues with paints etc further down the line

​@@JoanneHayDecorating Thank you very much! ❤

@@kritsonthebeat no, the Gardz does the job of the mist coat

@@nigel8820 yep, I’ve written that in the video description

The door is best bry not damp but you can wipe over with a turps rag if using a oil based paint,love your logo by the way ...the who

Rubbish 🗑

@@geordiemod4149 I cleaned the door down in the video after sanding

A damp door 😂

@@MrCcarcher was it you I just responded to on Facebook?

@@JoanneHayDecorating hi Joanne, thanks it was sorry for duplicate post, i knew id seen your lining paper video somewhere

Neither is a full carpet if it’s ruined with water, but this is very small in comparison. I also recycle as much as possible on jobs. I’ve used some plastic sheeting 3-4 times across different jobs. Give me something else that guarantees 100% water protection for my clients lovely carpets that is environmentally friendly and I’ll happily use it

@JoanneHayPaintingandDecorating I would say the water proof dust sheets, as long as you have plenty fairly liquid in the weting down it won't be so bad

@@williams.porter6182 yep. I mentioned that in the video too 👍🏼

@@JoanneHayDecorating Yes, I see that you did, my apologies! A couple points that you might consider, if you drop a plumb line ( a laser level works great for this) and mark it with a pencil for the drop going around the corner onto the adjacent wall it will make it much easier to get your drop plumb the first time. Additionally, I have always thought of what you are calling a straight edge as a smoothing tool. I use 6 inch putty knife with an attachment to thicken the cut a bit. Works a charm. I respect to each their own though.

It's banging!

@@nigel8820 it wasn’t bin it’s PeelStop, that binds the edges back to the surface. It’s then all sealed, and all edges filled then sanded

@@idi0tdetectioninprogress I agree. I also think it’s a shame that plasterers don’t tell clients about it either. Or they say it needs a coat of PVA which is completely wrong information.