As long as the plunger is in the timing marks and the timing marks on the knotter wheel are in line when you set the chain , it can trip any time and it'll rotate on it's next rotation

@@vengethis Ok now i finally know exactly how the bailer works at last. So to set it to perfect timing i should just remove the chains for plunger,knotters and feeder and set it to exact position and test it out slowly at first. I have a twine knotter on my sb541 baler and am just using wire and its working fine. This became quite concerning to me, should i keep the wire and go with it ??

None whatsoever, because I used all factory parts from a donor truck

@@vengethis that's great news. I've been wanting to do the same thing. Did you go with the AD or AE g56?

@@grantfawson9675can't remember the code name but it was the early one with the 0.79 overdrive. I would have preferred the later one with the taller overdrive but it wasn't in the cards

@@vengethis Good to know. The early one was the AD. What is your tire size? What are the RPM's when the needle is on 60mph? The AD is the king for towing but the AE is more comfortable on the highway. I'm trying to decide which I'd rather live with.

@@grantfawson9675 255/80-17. I went a little bigger than the stock 235. Dropped a hundred or 2 rpms at interstate speeds. 3.73 gears. 60 mph is approx 1800-1850 80 mph used to be 2600 rpms with 235s now it's 2400-2450 with 255s. Not a huge difference but a little bit. I might go bigger yet next time I need tires but I would need wheel spacers or 19.5 wheels or both to get much taller

I didn't. I bought a "working" drone body off of eBay moved all the parts over. And flew it a couple of times. The gps went wonky both times and one time Iost control but managed to get it down safely. Fast forward a few months went to pair it and the new one lost pairing. So I sold the whole effing thing for parts on eBay... Both bodies. Controller. Batteries. Etc. Just decided I was done after all that headache

@@vengethis dang sorry to hear that well I’m doing the pairing fix for people if you ever decide to get another one thanks for the reply

No worries, thanks for reaching out. I probably should have kept it in case someone figured out how to fix them but decided I was done with the whole Karma platform. If I get back into drones I'll get something else entirely@@TheBeast_Blake

@@vengethis ya I’m just trying to help as many people as possible to get back in the air after GoPro really messed up by not fixing the issue discontinued or not so if you hear of any one that might need my help let them know thanks again

I was able to re use them. Red loctite and toqued to spec. 9 years and 60k miles later without an issue

@@vengethis Thank you for the quick reply, saves me some aggravation!!

@@CableGuy74 glad to help. Not sure if I'm right wrong or indifferent, but it's what I did 🤣

And what kind of transfer case did you use

Unless the system is heat soaked it doesn't engage at idle to keep the ac cool when not moving like I'd hoped. Also, with the fan being a little smaller the efficiency isn't as good as stock because of the gap between the fan blades and shroud. I might have an adapter machined to connect the factory Cummins fan to the mechanical clutch and throw a small electric booster fan on for the A/C.

For the most part yes. When pulling a hill while loaded it engages when it should and disengages when it should. Unless the system is heat soaked it doesn't engage at idle to keep the ac cool when not moving like I'd hoped. Also, with the fan being a little smaller the efficiency isn't as good as stock because of the gap between the fan blades and shroud. I might have an adapter machined to connect the factory Cummins fan to the mechanical clutch and throw a small electric booster fan on for the A/C. I'd give it a 4 out of 5 stars over having a faulty electronic controlled fan.

There is a company in France that supposedly fixes them. I just bought a used body on eBay and flew it twice but it had some GPS signal issues and went rogue all the way to the scene of the crash. (Thankfully only in the middle of my hay field) Haven't messed with it since. There is a Facebook group dedicated to this and one of the guys from the French company is a regular on there. Luis Nombre I believe is his name Here's the Facebook Group. facebook.com/groups/609999613656869

It still runs at 540 PTO, but I have to drop the ground speed quite a bit as the capacity is much lower than a normal baler. The pickup reel is the same size as original but the chamber and plunger are smaller so if I go too fast or pick up a big glob of hay it'll jam up and/or break a shear bolt. It's a 1.5 mph operation

Thanks for commenting! Grass alfalfa mix - if I remember right it got rained on and had to re-dry which is why it's so brown from sun bleaching. This one makes 16x18 and I have them tie at 36". Depending on tension and moisture content, 65-85 lb bales. The 14x18" are easier to handle and potentially more profitable when selling by the bale but the 16x18 goes quicker. I've since retired this baler. It shit the bed one too many times on me last year. It was so worn out it kept failing in expensive ways and it got put out to pasture after costing me thousands in lost hay due to breaking down before rain came. I've since replaced it with a John Deere 468 Square baler that's 20 years newer and has more life left in it.

@@vengethis I was thinking about buying a low time New Holland 420 Hayliner Hay Baler. Makes the 16x18 bales. The machine from what I understand fixed any shortcomings from he 282 and 283 models. How many acres do you have? Would you like to sell the bale accumulator off your 283? What make and model is it?

3.73 in the axles

I didn't need to fool the computer. It still thinks there's an electric fan clutch failure with a soft code, so there's no check engine light.

Eep! I've never had anything but a soft code for the fans which is why this swap worked well for me.

I would imagine it would be very similar, with the exception of the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) not allowing the cruise control to work. The 03-04.5 use a cable driven sensor mounted to the side of the engine, the 05+ use an electric pedal with the sensor on the pedal itself. From my research I remember the 05+ allowed the cruise to continue to work after the swap, but the 04.5 and older will not (unless someone's come up with a fix since my research in 2014)

Only need the one wire on the top row of the harness

@@vengethis thank you sir

In my 05 yes like nothing even changed. 04.5 and older it does not

Don't know about the 03 for sure, I would guess it would probably work.

I can't remember now referencing my post on CumminsForum from when I did it I posted this: ----------- The 48RE is approx. 27” The G56 29”. Because of this you will need to either swap front drivelines with one out of a G56 or have 2” added to it. The rear driveline will need to be swapped out of a truck with the same configuration truck, or have 2” removed. I had 2” removed from mine and it was proably ⅛” to ¼” too much. You’re safe to go 1.75” to 2” on your length adjustment. ------- You should Double check measurements between outputs and driveshaft yoke and share that with your driveline shop. The spline count difference between the 48 and the G56 is the output of the transmission to the input of the transfer case. Drive shafts connect the same.

It may just hook to the knotter frame, no specific hole or anything. My old 65 is that way

@@markgroth4380 Thank you! That's what it looks like in the manual, but wasn't sure.

What Mark said.... right to the knotter frame

Been fine. Keeps it cool pulling hills with a heavy trailer. If the system is heat soaked on a hot day, the ac will cool well at idle and low speeds because there's enough heat to engage the fan. If the engine isn't up to operating temp,the fan won't kick on and the AC will short cycle. I might add a small electric pusher fan onto the AC condenser on a manual switch for just those rare circumstances, but by in large it works well.

Shoot sorry I just saw this comment. I can probably help you ... what's up? Email me at vengethis at gmail dot com

Clutch: Hayden 2791 Fan Clutch from 1999 Dodge 2500 V10 Fan: Motorcraft YA225 from a 2001 Powerstroke

That's actually a secondary hydraulic valve on the tractor making that noise. I've since fixed it

I would imagine you would have to return the ECM to stock, flash, then re add the tune after the flash. I would think it could potentially brick the ECM if you tried to flash with a tune loaded

Facts lol

No Problem. I'm sure there's a wire under the dash in the steering column that goes through the switch on the pedal, but I just jumper ed it to the wire in the harness under the dash to achieve the same thing. All that needs to happen is that specific wire on the ECM gets grounded to allow the truck to crank, and that wire is switched with the clutch safety switch . Hope that helps

G56 and 48RE can use the same one. NV5600 and 48RE are different.

The fan codes don't throw a light... they're stored as a "soft code" in the ECM so a scan tool will read them, but they don't display the light. That doesn't bother me at all because the failed fan clutch from before had the same codes.

chamber is cut down. Plunger is cut down to match but uses all standard new holland rollers.

Sure does! Wasn't affected at all because 2005 is drive by wire

My neighbor had it built, used it a few seasons and then sold it to me when he got out of farming.

More details? This is cool! Can do you do more videos of it? More specifically how th chamber was cut down?

In Ontario, Canada. Womdering how to make/edit one of these

@@corwinbutyn1242 Sure! When I dig it out of mothball for 2nd cutting net month I'll go through it more thoroughly for you.