There really is no need to change the fluid for anything that soon. I would recommend you just follow what the owners manual states.

For daily driving, sure. Flexing out on the rocks, you will see some rubbing of your fenders with 35s

@ wow thank you for the quick response! Is the rubbing enough to be concerned about or is it similar to the amount in this video? I don’t think I’d be concerned about light rubbing on some plastic

Depends on the 35. Some are bigger and some, like BFG are a lot smaller.

LOL

Awesome! Glad to hear our video was able to help you out 👍

LOL - I agree

I saw your second response and glad that you were able to figure this out.

Awesome! I think you'll like it.

Assuming you're still running factory gears, there really is no need for it in the front especially if you still have your FAD. With the exception of 4WD, there is never a load on the front axle. With the towing you do, the heavier weight fluid is recommended.

@ Thank you I appreciate it. I do believe it still has the stock gearing. I will go with the 75W-140 in the rear as you suggested. I was thinking of changing the front diff fluid because I am not the original owner and don’t know if they ever crossed water with it. Would it be alright if I use 75W-140 in the front or would you suggest I use 75W-90. Thank you again for your help.

You can use whatever you want and it won't hurt anything but it won't help anything either.

5100

This kzbin.info/www/bejne/h3fQZmV-epqhnZo

@wayalife thank you so much bro.. another question, any point in building up my sports gladiator over getting a rubicon?

Well sure. If you don't do any wheeling that requires a 4:1 crawl ratio or play on rocks on a regular enough basis that you don't need lockers or the convenience of an electronic sway bar disconnect system, you're in what you have for a LOT less than a Rubicon. But, IF you do all the things that I just mentioned, starting off with a Rubicon will get you all that and for less than it would be to buy and build it into your Sport.

Thank you 😊

LOL - well, I would never pretend to know as much as what you can read on the internet but I do hope I was able to help out with this video.

I don't know if I ever said this was "the best" but I am still very happy with how well it's been holding up. Not really a fan of Steer Smarts being that I have personally seen their stuff break out on the trail and have found that they are totally full of themselves. But then, that's just me. Lots of good steering systems are out there if you're not a fan of Synergy.

@@wayalife sorry didn't mean to put words in your mouth.....haha. I have Rusty's offroad currently and was just starting to shop around. I am also looking at doing the upper trackbar bracket with sector shaft brace. The steer smarts one looks beefier, but didn't know if their over system was better. I love your videos and search them often for advice. Appreciate you. Thanks, Nate

@n8higgins glad to hear you enjoy our videos :)

Not sure how grade 5 bolts will help to save weight but typically, beadlock rings always use grade 8. Most beadlock failures come from ring bolts breaking.

@@wayalife Grade 5 "Ti" as in titanium bolts. The Ti scale is different then steel. After doing research and consulting AI, Ti Grade 5 = 137500PSI Tensile strength average. Grade 8 Imperial or Grade 10.9 Metric come in at about 150,000PSI average with the 10.9 on paper to be a bit higher.

@Good-luck-Jonathan LOL - got it. Not sure what the weight savings will actually do for you or why you'd even feel a desire to watch this video but I hope everything works out for you👍🏻

@@wayalife Very little lol but it is compounding effect with the other parts. 5 Ti lugs that look like oem acorn style went from 13.6OZ down to 7.8OZ. Not bad considering this is unsprung rotational weight. 24 bead lock bolts should save close to half. On top of that, I want to get a 2 piece brake rotor. This should also save 3lbs or more. It does put less stress on the axles and will give back some MPG. I went with the 37"x 11.5 Recon Grapplers and the OEM 7.5" beadlock wheels to keep things lighter and didn't want poke. When bead locked it measured 8.5"?? I though it would go to 8.0 but I measured were the bead would sit non bead lock to were the bead lock ring would be at it was 1"

@Good-luck-Jonathan Clearly, you've got it all figured out and again, not sure why you even felt a need to watch this video that was specifically made for "beginners". In the almost 30 years of doing this Jeep thing, I can't say that I've ever given so much though about minute amounts of weight and out on the rocks, un-sprung weight was always seen as a good thing. But hey, good luck to you Jonathan and your quest to give back some mpg to your 392 👍

It definitely makes a difference.

I just used the factory bolts and nuts.

Honestly, it really depends on what you need your Jeep to do for you. For me personally, I really need a pickup in my daily life as haul things in the bed all the time, especially with stuff to work on my properties. If all I did was use my Jeep for commuting and or hitting the trails, a Wrangler is what I would be what I'd get.

Technically speaking, on a Rubicon like this, the front is an M210 and the rear an M220 but otherwise, yes, they are Dana 44s

LOL - no offense taken by me. I just show what I've seen 😎

@@wayalife Oh I didn't think you'd take any offense; that was for them 🤣 Great coverage of the show btw!

Yes. With few exceptions, pretty much any winch will bolt up to any winch plate.

Not sure where you got that they were so bad. I own 10 Jeeps and love them all.

Tie down rails.

LOL

A lot of money for sure.

Thanks! Hope you found our video to be helpful 😎

Yup, lots of ways to make it easier and something I would have done as well had I not gotten it so quickly.

LOL - definitely stupid but fortunately, you only need to do it once every 4 or so years and it's a lot easier the 2nd time around.

LOL - glad you enjoyed our coverage of SEMA

You can cut the zip ties, I just didn't bother. And yes, hole for a wrench would be super nice to have.

@@wayalife I just rewatched this again and noticed another question; what was the reason/purpose of removing the Christmas tree connections for the fog light cables? and/or was that cable secured some other way or rerouted? I'm assuming the motive was so that the cables weren't sandwiched between the mounting plate and the bumper? I'm planning on getting a Zeon XP 14-S and have been debating on using this mounting plate or the Rockhard4x4 mounting plate for factory steel bumpers. Big thanks for the wealth of info you provide. I'm off to watch the rest of your SEMA coverage.

@@halxen I do apologize for not addressing the fog light wiring harness removal. Others have asked about this as well and you are correct, it is to prevent it from getting sandwiched between the winch plate and bumper. The winch plate has holes in it that will allow you to reattach the christmas tree.

@@wayalife awesome, thanks for the clarification!

Sorry, I do not own a Tacoma and so I haven't been able to see if it can even be done.

Venturous - we covered it last year kzbin.info/www/bejne/hKO4iYijmMaDfpY

Truly humbled that you would say as much and glad to know our videos are helpful to you.

Thank you. We're humbled that you would say as much and happy to hear you enjoy our videos 😊

LOL - Matt is awesome 😎

LOL - thank you and happy to hear you enjoyed the video 😎

Honestly, unless you're feeling like you need more correction, I would just leave well enough alone.

Glad you enjoyed it!

LOL - glad you enjoyed the video.

Thank you. Glad to hear you enjoy our videos!

We are not running coil overs on this Jeep

It's lame for sure but fortunately, you only need to do it about once every 4 or so years and the second time around is a lot faster. Glad that our video was helpful to you.

LOL

Glad you liked the video. Unfortunately, I have not tried orange.

A bit on the pricy side for sure.

Bummer the previous version didn't last but glad to hear you point out that there've been improvements made.