I'm going to get those parts and do what you did! Great tutorial! Just what I needed to know how to wire this stuff up without guessing.

thank you, very helpful.

I can understand why the little nema 17 didn't work. A worm drive is about as inefficient as you can get, so much power is lost through the contact of the worm to worm wheel. A nema 23 with 270 oz torque works great on my BS-0 dividing head 40:1 worm reduction. I bought Steve Ward's (world of ward) stand alone electronic rotary table controller. It has a built in 5.6 amp stepper driver, all you need to buy is your stepper motor and a 24 volt power supply. Of course you need to make your own mount and buy or make a coupling. It has an output that allows you to add a second driver for linear motion as well as limit switches and another output that you could control a solenoid valve or anything else. It corrects any division errors when doing odd number gears so all cuts end up even and you can enter in your tables backlash if you want to do forward and reversing cuts. The second ouput can also be used if you need much bigger steppers and higher voltages. It's dead simple to use to cut gears or machine slots or any type radius cut you like, being able to add a second linear motion axis is great. I use it to drive the X axis on my mill buy you could use it for Y,Z etc. A few minutes of entering your rotary and linear axis instructions and you can sit back and watch while it executes the job. It's only 180 pounds and ships from England. You can also buy the idividual board, box and other components to make the product yourself from him or elsewhere, he offers the software for free. It's even cheaper if you don't mind soldering all the components to the board yourself. Lot's of options for different budget levels. I have no affiliation with him, I spent a lot of time looking for an easy to use stepper control for my indexing head. This required no code or heavy learning curve to use. Once you've got it attached to the rotary table or dividing head you can start cutting gears. It took me about 15 minutes to figure out and enter the setup info for the stepper and another 30 minutes to get familiar with the different indexing options and enter the info to cut my first gear. If you hate the idea of learning CNC or programing an building and programming an arduino then this type of controller is the best option. You can ad different profiles so you can switch the controller from milling machine to lathe or anything else you want to control in just a couple minutes as well. Lots more options I don't recall off the top of my head you might like as well.

I just found your channel because I am trying to find a spring assist lift for my new trailer. That’s probably the most detailed and best videos I’ve seen on installing one. I can tell you probably been a machinist most of your life or you should’ve been. I just retired out of a tool and die shop where I had been a machinist for 41 years and the last 21 years. I’ve also been the maintenance and machine repairman. I do all the repairs in the building, including electrical hydraulics nematics but they tell me I can’t put one of their lips on my trailer because the sides are 27 inches high they’re only recommended for 24 inch high sides. I’m thinking I could just add 3 inches of chain to the end of the cable and it wouldn’t lift all the way to the top, but if it would just get it off the ground in halfway up from level, the rest of the way would be pretty simple to lift, I enjoy your channel and I did subscribe. I hope to have more time to check out more of your videos. I have a KZbin channel myself on lawnmower and snowblower repair with a little small engine work. Check it out and leave me a comment. I’d like to hear from you. My channel is Jimsfixitshop Jim

It's good to use oil recommended for air cooled engines. Lawn mowers, edgers, dirt bikes, etc., use oils that contain more zinc which sticks to bearing surfaces and makes them less prone to wear. Car oils don't have as much zinc because it clogs the catalytic converters over time. Since mowers, edgers, etc., don't have catalytic converters, the extra zinc is added protection for a long lasting engine. Fram makes a 30w small engine oil that's good for these. I don't know about the 30w conventional though, so I can't comment. It could very well have it, too.

We are in the future, or there is someone out there, video. This has been a life time recurring haunting since ~1966, I always assumed it was designed for super lazy consumers and drives me crazy, like the mold maker or the edges of ends, say in plastic, are not spaced properly so when encountering one it is an ambiguous algebra problem. In other words one has to go into blind man mode to count within a degree or two of the unknown reverse drop downs before being certain that all ready to engage. I've got enough on my mind and get side tracked over a peanut-butter container. I'm a long time electromechanical troubleshooter, even did a left/right lead patent pro se. In an idealistic world they would all drop down at the same position.

That was a great explanation of why we use threads like this. Hope all is well your way! - TZ

Thanks, now you have got me looking for multistart threads. My toothpaste brand has one start, my OJ has two, a tub of working hands lotion has three and a jar of mayonnaise has four.yay! I found them all

Interesting stuff, though I'm having a hard time figuring out where I'd use something like this. I have a vague recolletoin of multi-start being used on lead scerws, or perhaps it was ballscrews, or something like that...

Thank you. Great demonstration.

Couldn't see the tool path. Maybe next time you could close up on the part and tool?

Enjoyed…good discussion/demostration

couldnt you just start on a opposite number on the dial to do the second start thread?

Several comments allude to a method of cutting multi-start threads without indexing the work or change gears using just the thread dial. A 1947 article from Mechanix Illustrated (online in google books) explains in detail how to do it. As Mr. Lee notes, about the only time you might ever have to cut a multi-start thread would be making a valve stem. Multi-start threads are also useful where you need rapid movement with limited rotation in some mechanism.

No compound 29.5 angle.... Okey, for small threads it works well. No gearbox setting that would allow starting at different half nut numbers?

Does your nut have to be multi start thread also? Great video and thank you.

Thanks for sharing 👍

Everyday, in every Navy Yard and Commercial Yard, LH double lead threads are cut on valve stems. When I served my apprenticeship we did these threads on manual and NC lathes. FANUC CNC's have specific cycles for doing multi start threads. Some old American lathes had the capability to do multistart threads with the thread chasing dial. The math is easy; your lathe has to be able to generate leads that are multiples of the total TPI. In the case of a 7/8-9 2 start, the lathe needs to be capable of 4.5 tpi threads 180 degrees out of phase.

Way to go. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.

The most important question…7:41

I did enjoy this video. You did good figuring on this one. Not much is more satisfying than understanding, after a serious struggle. AFTER I saw your compound was parallel, I knew how you were going to get to the midway point.

I too noticed the threads on a pen and on a glue bottle and their importance in early school years! The cap of a Bick pen could make a nice tight alignment taper or could have turned into a cone clutch on machines in my imagination! YOU and I both must have been BORED in class!! Thanks for the lesson on using the cross slide to find different thread locations for multi threads! I've never thought about using anything but the threading dial and engaging at different positions. Another multi start thread of my early school days was the multi-start thread on the inside of a bicycle hub!

Lee, you can still use the standard thread cutting procedure (as normal) by adding a .0625" shim on the right side of the threading tool in the tool holder. No need to set the compound slide parallel to the Z axis, leave it at 29.5° as normal.

Good explanation Lee👍👍👍

You can also leave the compound at 29 degrees so you're not form-cutting the threads so much, and change where you engage on the threading dial for the second start. If you engage on any number for the first start, then you can start at any half a number for the second start. Or if the first start engages on 1 4 7 or 10 for start 1, then start 2 would start at 2.5, 5.5, 8.5, or 11.5 - if your threading dial has enough graduations on it.

And good morning

My thought on why on why this style of thread would be used on consumer products is that it is easier and quicker to open and close the container and might equate to more sales because of the convenience factor. 😊

all good information on threading . About that Machinist applets program what going on with that i message you on it but heard nothing yet ,willing to buy please let us know ty .

Nice

Great project. I took your idea and put a stepper one my dividing head with a Raspberry pi and touch screen. My son programmed a gui interface and I provided the math settings. It works great. Thank you for the inspiration.

great project building one myself ,what grinding stone are you using love your video .

I'm making this tmrw but trying to figure out if I should weld to the table....hope my weld holds. You bolted it on only?

Excellent handbook style presentation. Once needed to make a left hand M6, 0.5, 2" long screw and asked Joe Pie how to do with the 29.5 angle. "Plunch cut it, reverse rotation" Joe said, and it worked out perfectly and 3 screws were made. My question is how far plunch cutting could be used on a Mini lathe?

Enjoyed the video, just got an old Troybilt TB160 running once again after it sat for many years, next is my edger and Craftsman LT 1000 riding mower. Thanks for the info and keep them coming. Fired my lawn man......lol

Nothing is perfect, just a degree of accuracy lol, great video my friend.

I know this video is 9 years old, but wondered how much, if any, quieter the mill runs after the belt conversion. I’m on the fence over wether or not to do the change to mine, and if it’s worth it! Your thoughts?

What the other guy did made another bracket ..same as you bored out gear made a bushing fit shaft to fit shaft and bearing..slid it on at angle so no need to lift mill then using motor marked spots for bolts and retaing pins

The correct bore size for an internal thread equals the nominal bolt (or screw) size minus the thread depth shown on a thread depth chart. Example: The bore size for an internal 3/4"-10 TPI is .750"-.0640" = .686". The bore size varies with the number of threads per inch with courser threads always being deeper than finer threads.

Great Video… i’m going to make me one just like it thanks buddy…👍👍

A hole saw or annular cutter could be used to make the center opening. If this option is used, select a hole saw or annular cutter smaller than desired diameter, followed by putting the hex portion of the index in a 3-jaw lathe chuck and boring opening to desired diameter.

nice build as always i made mine to fit all 3 die sizes

Excellent video.

I have never tried LH threads with an insert tool. I believe the actual clearances are a bit different for LH, although in my experience a RH grind seemed to do the job well, as you just proved with this video. Well done, enjoyed the moment, cheers and thanks!

Lee this is one of the best and most complete thread cutting tutorials I have seen yet. Even though I know how to single point thread I saved it to my, How To file on You Tube. Most of my threading is done with either a tap or a die but left hand male and female taps and dies are not only rare but expensive. Something that you could add to this video is to explain the reason why using the Compound and the tool bit needs to move at 29 degrees to the material and not just moving the cross slide in and out. I think it would be worthwhile information for the beginning lathe operator to understand. Personally, I would love to see the formula you mentioned as well.

I still watch your bolthole dro vid before I do that out in the shop

This looks like something you could do with a hole saw.

Nice video, very good demo and explanations. I would suggest this video to anyone who wants to learn how to cut threads. Changing the subject a bit, Max Grant of Swan Valley Machine and Kurtis of Cutting Edge Engineering use a different method. They use the cross slide to set depth of cut with the compound set parallel to the z-axis. The compound is used together with the cross slide to cut the threads. Max explains it much better than I can, but as I understand it, if the cross slide is moved 0.005" the compound is moved 0.0025" or half the the movement of the cross slide. If you have the time and inclination check out Max's video on the subject. It seems that the Aussies do things differently than us Yanks. KOKO!

Thanks, Mr. Lee.

I think that threading is the most satisfying 0peration you can do with a lathe. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.

Nice video, Lee. Is that 750 / 3 pitch