Glad you found it helpful! Which parts are you looking for more details on?

Thank you so much for actually responding !!! Please tell me about your sprockets, as well as the muffler(silencer)

@@misterts7635also, please tell me where I can find the seat strap like the one you have

Remove the clutch cover, pull the clip that holds on the oil pump drive gear, remove the screws that hold the pump in, pull the pump out enough to slide the gear off the shaft, reinstall pump without gear. When you’re done, the pump is still in there but without the drive gear it’s just acting as a plug. You can also buy a plug kit to remove the pump completely, but I didn’t see the point.

It’s the part number for the diff housing and seals. I tried the part number for just the seals and gasket for the SCTE trucks, but the gasket is a different thickness and it makes the gears bind. I just buy the housing kit to make sure I get the right gasket, as it’s only a few bucks more anyway.

​@@misterts7635 Great info. And smart. Ill order that one. I really appreciate your videos and fast response to my questions. I'm new to RCs. The lasernut might not have been the best choice for a beginner but im learning on the fly. ​@misterts7635

@@crashcootercoot no problem, glad to help! I came really close to grabbing a Lasernut while they were on sale but decided against it. I break these diffs periodically in the DB’s, I can only imagine how fast the Lasernut goes through them with those heavy wheels and tires. Other than that, I love this platform. Have you considered getting a 17mm hex conversion and running 1/8 buggy wheels? They’ll put a lot less strain on the diffs.

@misterts7635 Yes, I have been looking at 17mm hexes. The ones made by c2m. Is there a brand that you like best?

@@crashcootercoot I really liked the MIP kit but it got discontinued. I put the m2c kit on my other car and have not had any issues. Just make sure you use threadlock on the parts where they recommend it or they will spin their way loose.

Glad it was helpful! I’m actually waiting on a set of seals and HD gears to arrive from Tower Hobbies so I can rebuild the centers on both my cars. Hoping they get here tomorrow, will record the rebuild.

That is awesome. Thank you. Im hust starting in the hobby. ​@misterts7635

@@misterts7635 When you do, please show a step by step on how to get to it and how to put everything back. Thanks. Subscribing now.

I did not have any issues, there was plenty of room for adjustment. Can you rotate the motor and use a different set of mounting holes? I don’t remember offhand if this motor has sets of holes with different spacing.

The Lasernut 1900kv would run very cool on 3s but it’ll be pretty slow. What size pinion are you running on the stock motor? If it’s getting that hot just gear it down a tooth or two. My kid has been bashing his DB pretty hard for years with the stock motor, no overheating issues. Just have to get it geared correctly! I can pull the pinion cover off tomorrow to see what gear I’ve got on his if that would help. I don’t remember offhand.

I used some that I had in my toolbox. LOS216003 would have what you need though.

To be honest, my kid has been beating the heck out of his DB for over two years and has never broken a stock hub or carrier. They don’t really seem to be a weak link on these in my experience. I replaced them on my DB in my quest to tighten up the steering… and because I like to tinker! They do have less wiggle than the plastic parts, but I don’t notice any actual difference in the driving experience.

@@misterts7635 thank you sir, greatly appreciate you takin the time to respond. I kinda thought that was the case, I just got a new one and I’m doing all the upgrades now. Mostly cause I love to tinker as well, almost as much as driving them lol. So far the only aluminum I’ve done is the steering rack, gearbox bearing inserts and chassis braces. Also did a servo upgrade, RPM skid plates and Teckno drive shaft/out drive kit. I’ve been eyeing the MIP pucks n center drive kit and the aluminum hubs/spindles. I’m thinkin bout just leaving it for now cause I don’t want to put too much money in it or make it too heavy lol, especially if I end up needing to replace diffs or something down the road. Anyways… thanks again, really appreciate the info, your channel has been a lot of help! Nevermind, I think I got the answer from my local shop. They said it won’t fit and I can’t find any MIP for the DB Pro so oh well, guess I’ll go M2C 🤷🏻‍♂️

@@misterts7635 one more question and I’ll leave you alone, promise lol. Did you end up trying the MIP 17mm hex adaptors? I want to order some but I can only find them for the Traxxas slash, I’m guessing they should work though 🤷🏻‍♂️. Or should I just go with the M2C or some other brand?

@@G__Mason no worries man, ask anything! I have MIP adapters on one car and M2C on the other. The MIP set I used was for a Losi SCTE, but that set has been discontinued. I had it in my toolbox from when I owned an SCTE and never got around to doing the conversion. The M2C set is nice and I have had zero issues with it. A little loctite goes a long way. I don’t know if the slash set will work on our cars, so I’d just go with M2C.

@@misterts7635 thanks man, I really appreciate your help! I’m starting to learn I’m a little late to the party on this car lol. There’s been a few things I’ve wanted that are discontinued but oh well. I tore it down today to install some of the upgrades I’ve gotten in so far and I’m thinking of going ahead and checking the shims on the diff and changing the fluid. Still researching what weight fluid to do front/center/rear, I’ve researched the hell out of it but it seems to be all over the place lol. I’ve seen anywhere from 5k-1 mill and I don’t know shit about it but I’ll figure it out lol. I’m debating on going ahead and ordering the exotech diff case for all three diffs while I’m at it 🤷🏻‍♂️. I seen some using the aluminum gearboxes but I don’t really wanna spend the money nor add the weight so think I’ll leave them stock for now. Have you or your son had any diff issues? Any recommendations on avoiding it? Seems like a lot of people have issues with them, mostly on the Lasernut but seen a few DB’s as well. Just tryna avoid tearing this thing down too often lol. Man I really hate asking lol, you don’t owe me no response and I don’t like bugging ppl. If you got a patreon or cash app or something I’ll send you a tip for your time 😂. Once I get the diffs lined out I should be good to go. There’s not a lot of good info out there for these, found a couple forums that helped with some things but there’s more ppl arguing than fixing lol.

Yeah, it was easier to make it fit using that little bend in the tailpipe as an inlet. It’s just an Amazon cheapo, so it’s a straight-through perforated pipe with fiberglass packed around it. Makes no difference which way it goes. Good eye though!

im glsd you realise and it werent a mistake i thought youd laugh at yourself reason i mentioned lol but seein as it was purpose your the more clever one really. haha i wanna ask when you put a way longer shock in does the swingarm only have like a inch to fall back on does it limit out for example ive squeezed a big 330mm shock in and it was a tight squeeze i had to pull it back to force it in while swingarm was maxed out furthest away from front mounting spot is that safe to be mounted with so much pressure before sitting on it @@misterts7635

ohh okaqy buddy amazing video i had to point that out tho can i ask can you squeeze a shock in so its at max leverage with high preload on spring forced into new spot?@@misterts7635

@@misterts7635 because when i cut the front mount a inch and half back wheel was at mac leverage and had to literally squeeze shock in have i forgot to do something with swingarm to give more leeverage or is that how it is you force it in? because i am worrried my springs just preloaded now befoire sitting onnit

@@REALISMMODSAC I didn’t have to compress the spring to make it fit. I let the swing arm hang and the shock went right in. I’m not an expert by any stretch, but I don’t think you want to have to compress your shock to make it fit. Imagine how high that’s going to raise the back end of your bike, too!

It does, but it’s just a flat steel plate with holes all the way through. It doesn’t prevent the pins from getting pushed straight through the plastic part behind it. I haven’t had an issue with mine, but my kid has broken that part twice when he cartwheels it. I guess now we’ll find the next weakest link!

@@misterts7635 Interesting, my TT Pro is slightly different. The metal plate has indentations that hold the pins but don't go all the way through. Which is what blew my mind thinking you guys broke through the metal plate under the plastic. Must be part changes by Losi

@@rlgonzalez04 mine are both a few years years old and are the original version. Take a look at LOS234023- that’s what I’m working with. Is yours a V2? I wonder if they got an updated design.

@@misterts7635 Not sure they made a V2 of the TT Pro rtr truck. I just redid the diffs and yeah mine are different. My manual also calls for that part number but the outer holes on my steel plates aren't drilled all the way. Just like a dimple and the pin sits in there. I believe the TT Pro truck was out way before the DB Pro, they probably changed something in between.

@@rlgonzalez04 one of my DB’s started as a TT, so I’ll have to check that one to see which type it has. You’ve got me curious now! They did a V2 of the DB with some minor updates, so I assumed the TT got the same updates. Unfortunately I’ve heard it makes getting the correct bulkheads a pain, as some vendors are still selling the older style with the smaller bearings and some have the newer style.

hi buddy was your swing arm also at a limit ive squeezed a shock in and realised i forced it in and theres pressure on frame before weight now is that safe is that how its dont the swing arm hit a limit i didnt forget to losen something did i?

@@REALISMMODSAC I’d love to help answer your question… but I’m not sure what your question is…

@@TheBroshipCaptn when i re drilled a hole for my shock i hita limit with my swingarm and had ti force the shock in i didnt forget to take something off to stop the swingarm hitting a limit or do they all hit one after abit more sag

@@REALISMMODSAC I used the stock mounting holes in the frame and the original mounting hardware. I don’t have the issue you’re discussing.

im the nephew btw

I have been running stock, but I think Tekno makes an upgrade.

Ok thanks I will check that out

Just pulled off the tiny snorkel and used a hole saw to drill some holes in the top.

To be honest I don’t know. I believe the one I picked up was from an early 2000’s bike. I don’t know if they’ve changed them much.

Sorry but I don’t know their dimensions. I get them in the kit with the diff housing gaskets, never had to buy them by themselves.

I did not have to modify anything. If you got the Lasernut motor it will just drop right in and use the stock mount and screws. There’s another Spektrum 1900kv motor that’s meant for a 1/8 buggy and has a larger can size. It’s a 4274 instead of the 3660 that fits our motor mounts. Maybe that’s what you bought by mistake? If you can make it fit it’ll be a torque monster.

@@misterts7635 I noticed!! Thanks for that. Jennysrc made an mistake and send me the wrong one (big can indeed)

Man it’s been on the back burner for almost 2 years now, just too many other projects and stuff with my kids. I just picked up an LS6 for it though, so I should be getting back to working on it in the next few weeks.

I run 15t on this one because it gets used in grass a lot. With a motor fan you could go up a few teeth, but it’s still a good idea to get an infrared thermometer to keep an eye on temps. They’re cheap on Amazon!

I had one of each and ended up buying the DB body, wing, and body mounts to convert the TT to another DB. Totally a matter of preference though, I just like the open wheel design! They’re the same chassis and driveline.

Stock KX60 and KX65 shocks don’t have a reservoir- this one is an aftermarket Works shock for a KX65. Find yourself a stock shock and it drops right in.

@@misterts7635 Thank you. Hopefully a stock kx60 or 65 will be way firmer than the stock one that's in my PW80. Thanks much.

They hold up great on 4s. The only time I’ve blown one out is when the foam got waterlogged. I’ve run at least 4 set of them.

I am, actually. I’m in the northwest suburbs.

@Mister T's wow...thats awesome...tinley park here...I would love to have you do some upgrading work on our pw80 if youre interested...would you be interested?...i can give you our email and you could let me know your rates etc...

@@royolson9441 I might be able to help you out this summer. I’m a teacher and a track and field coach, so the next few weeks are very busy. After May my schedule opens up.

It was sold to me as early 2000’s, but I don’t know how reliable that is because they also said it was from a kx60.

same, are you just using an angal grinder?

@@Olliedowling i ended up using an angle grinder to grind the little pipe down to the expansion pipe and then a die grinder to remove the welds that remained and to also make the hole bigger for the new size tubing

If you don’t want to convert it to 17mm hexes like I did in this video, you can try out some of the spacers available on Amazon. They slip over your 12mm hex and then you put the 17mm wheels onto them. I’ve never tried them so I can’t really say anything about the durability. Just search “17mm wheel adapter” on Amazon.

Binding the radio and receiver are done using the buttons on the radio and receiver, not the speed controller. If you did somehow manage to unpair them, it’s very easy to bind them again. Just hold the bind button on the receiver until it starts flashing, then do the same on the radio. When the receiver light stays solid, it’s bound.

Couldn’t tell you, it’s been on the back burner for a while now. It’s still running on the tune for the 5.3 and small cam that was in it before, so I haven’t been driving it.

@misterts7635 I was just curious cause I'm going with an lq4 with a ss2 cam kit and an f1a94 procharger ran with holley efi and I was just curious if you managed to get close to that 1000hp mark

@@stoltzstandards5911 sounds awesome! I doubt mine is anywhere near that with the p1.

Good to know, thanks. It was sold to me as a kx65 shock but I never saw the bike it came off of.

I went with 14/36 gears and it woke it up a lot. I actually bought an even bigger rear sprocket but haven’t installed it yet. I’ll have to get a longer chain. Opening up the airbox and exhaust allows the bike to rev quite a bit higher, so you’re not losing much top speed, if any, by gearing it down. For the airbox, I removed the snorkel and used a hole saw to make a few large holes in the top. It was either 3/4” or 1”, I don’t remember exactly. Just make sure you don’t do it on the engine side of the filter, or the air won’t be going through the filter anymore! Good luck with yours!

If you want low end, you need a smaller gear on the trans and bigger on the rear wheel. I used 14/36 and am switching the rear to a 40t.

What’s 40t gonna do better?

@@k1only421 40t will give you more low end power and acceleration, less top speed.

If you end up replacing the carb, don’t be tempted to buy the Chinese knockoff. A genuine Mikuni is under a hundred bucks and will run a whole lot better. The decals came from a company called Kalair and they sell them on Amazon. Lots of different designs and a quick turn around time. Have fun and good luck with the project!

Man don't knock no pw mine has never lost to a 110 even the new fuel injected ones with 4 gears