Thanks for the info, I could not find anyone who actually told me everything I needed to know. With the pump, possibly something to do with the constituent parts of air reacting? I was thinking about making a small Nickel dish for putting small parts into, have you tried this before?
@rogerpruzansky86336 күн бұрын
Thank you very helpful and explained very well
@jaysonmarquez752417 күн бұрын
Going down a thermodynamics rabbit hole and landed on this video-I now know way too much about R values (jk thank you!)
@joel6221Ай бұрын
What kind of wire did you use to hold the coin
@GarageScienceАй бұрын
18awg bare copper wire.
@joel6221Ай бұрын
Original recipe link?
@lawrencecole6527Ай бұрын
Yay!
@sevabelskyi2691Ай бұрын
6:45 "a little bit ", lol, you literally put there another gallon of water and never mentioned it.
@TakensoKАй бұрын
So, for me to give an aluminum bath to an iron screw, for example, do I need to zinc it to create "adhesion" to the aluminum? Does it work that way?
@GarageScienceАй бұрын
The reaction video contained was copper onto zinc and copper onto Al. I've never done an Al bath. I honestly couldn't say for certain. Seems plausible that Al would deposit but the difference in electronegativity is more of a thumb rule than anything. Someone with a larger background in Chemistry might be able to chime in with a more detailed answer.
@TakensoKАй бұрын
@@GarageScience I understand, I'm very grateful for your answer, where I live it's difficult to get this type of information but I won't give up. Thank you also for the video, it helped me a lot.
@GreenFart174Ай бұрын
I have already managed twice to break down nickel sulfate at 120°C into nickel monoxide (light green powder that is not water soluble) and sulfur trioxide even though it was still in an aqueous solution. Does anyone understand this? Because nickel sulfate only breaks down at 840°C, which is what you read everywhere.
@TheStigma2 ай бұрын
I feel like Im missing something here. you say copper cant plate on iron because iron is higher in the the series. So use tin or nickel instead, but arent they lower than iron too, and isnt that the whole problem?
@user-wd2ky4uc7v2 ай бұрын
Hi there Wonderful work! how can i shraing your progam?
@GarageScience2 ай бұрын
You can download it from my GitHub here: github.com/Garage-Science/Grayscale-Generator
@user-pl2pc4xc5w2 ай бұрын
Can this be done on zinc plated screws or stripped steel screws?
@GarageScience2 ай бұрын
It should work on that.
@dennisbormet50912 ай бұрын
Great Job!
@machine.grundberg3 ай бұрын
Never understand why people are so salty and want to leave negative comments about someones experience with new machinery, like chill y'all. that be said THANK YOU for sharing your experience! currently building my 440 up and this was a great help....the instructions seems to leave out some key details here and there.
@MAKRAMLAGH-cs2fj3 ай бұрын
Thanks ❤
@MAKRAMLAGH-cs2fj3 ай бұрын
Nice ❤
@super-z89433 ай бұрын
Hi, is sulfuric acid required to lower the pH of the bath?
@GarageScience3 ай бұрын
No, I have another video where I show how to use citric acid instead.
@troytaylor19133 ай бұрын
Doing resoration of vintage pieces like radio and bicycle parts. So I should nickel plate first then copper plate with brighners to fill in rust pits and scratches and polish before a final nickel plate. If you do automotive body work its kind of like putting on primer to make the body filler stick. Things are making sense.
@dantesmith36643 ай бұрын
thank you sir
@SAMEDOKAWA3 ай бұрын
Please! Protect your breathing!
@Zen_Modeling3 ай бұрын
Do you use any type of Chemical cleaners or Surface activators (aka: Pickling bath) I read a DIY company who sells DIY kits for home & hobby use advocating them. What they call the “Surface Activator “ is a [Sulphuric acid] solution. And the cleaner Solution used before the Sulphuric acid is weak HCI Solution. 📍I’ve only seen the online DIY folks using a HCI solution before they do the Nickel Plating process. 📍Any suggestions with either of these ? Or maybe something else you prefer? Thanks for your content!! Lee
@GarageScience3 ай бұрын
I have used a cleaning solutions. And I do it 3 stages. Clean thoughly before hand. Dip for about 10 seconds in HCl, about 10-30 seconds in H2SO4 and rinse in clean water before and after each.
@Zen_Modeling3 ай бұрын
@@GarageScience Ok so pretty much the same 3 steps that this company suggests & BTW {sells the Battery Acid for $40 a quart.} Along with an HCI Cleaner called (ElectroClean)for about the same cost. ❗️They also use a Stainless steel Anode & run a Low ⚡️thru the solutions of each of those 2 steps before getting the Nickel. 📍I machine many of my parts in Aluminum & like to Anodize & color with dye if need be. In my Anodizing steps there is a ⚗️2-3 minute soak in a 20% “SODIUM HYDROXIDE Solution” ❓What are your thoughts of using (A NaOH) 20% Solution in place of the HCI Bath for Cleaning Brass prior to the H2504❓ BTW: I REALLY APPRECIATE your quick response to my questions on your KZbin video. As well as your Killer Content💯 🙏Thanks🙏 ☯️Lee
@GarageScience3 ай бұрын
NaOH is basic versus the HCl which is very acidic. The acid helps cut any grease or oil that's present. Whereas NaOH leaves a soapy residue. The NaOH could get used in the initially cleaning but I'd still finish with the H2SO4 and HCl. Using the SS electrodes helps accomplish electrocleaning which is good for removing a microscopic top layer of metal. At a certain point it's probably overkill because the plating will have deficiencies in the deposit due to bath purity levels and more cleaning won't prevent that. And most DIY plating baths aren't totally pure either.
@Zen_Modeling3 ай бұрын
@@GarageScience Excellent- Exactly the information I was looking for! I really appreciate you taking the time to give me a Quality answer to my question💯 👏👏👏 Respectfully, Lee aka: ☯️ZenModeling
@75blackviking4 ай бұрын
Great video!! Interesting looking crystals.
@damian-offthegrid40924 ай бұрын
It’s funny because I have no issues with chips on the front but I’m having this issue behind the table on the Y bellows and about to do this back there…
@GarageScience4 ай бұрын
Let me know who you do it because I've not decided how I want to do that.
@roger55es4 ай бұрын
Great video Thanks
@nomercyriding4 ай бұрын
Looks good! Any update videos planned for the 440? Maybe showing off some parts you've made with it, and how its fitting your needs (or not).
@GarageScience4 ай бұрын
@nomercyriding If there is interest in a video of that, I will. Are you a fellow 440 owner or perspective owner by chance?
@frensunited37484 ай бұрын
Would've been helpful if you would have done things in-frame, yeah?
@GarageScience4 ай бұрын
Well the video was shot at 2am after a 13hr work day so the videography isn't perfect.
@frensunited37484 ай бұрын
@@GarageScience Fair enough; thanks regardless.
@frensunited37484 ай бұрын
@@GarageScience Also since you're here, any advice for the easiest way to clean the mirrors inside my projector? I've determined that it isn't the DMD chip, but just specks of dust stuck on the mirror. My question is, do I need to fully disassemble the whole lens/optics housing unit, or can I access and clean it intact?
@frensunited37484 ай бұрын
Advice for cleaning the mirrors? Please
@GarageScience4 ай бұрын
Turn off any fans in the, also turn off heat/AC to avoid churning dust up in the air. Wear gloves, and use a microfiber cloth with optics cleaner. The optics cleaner you buy should be made with DI water and a non-streaking detergent. Take pictures with your phone as you go so you can put it together same way you took it apart.
@frensunited37484 ай бұрын
@@GarageScience Can I clean it via following instruction in this video? Say, once I get the color wheel removed, can I clean the dust particles out of the mirrors, or will it require further disassembly? Thanks so much, man.
@GarageScience4 ай бұрын
To clean the mirrors you have to disassemble it further. There is a plastic housing that contains the mirrors. The housing has two halves, once you remove it the halves come apart by taking out a few screws. The most annoying part of cleaning the mirrors is that you have to get the whole projector back together before being able to test if you were successful or not.
@frensunited37484 ай бұрын
@@GarageScience I cannot thank you enough for your help and guidance here. Think I’ll take it apart today. You made it look very easy via your videos so it shouldn’t be all that hard! Thanks a ton!
@htmotorworks7994 ай бұрын
BRAVO! this is awesome. I sent you a message on your Etsy store. Also I wanted to let you know on my PCNC1100R3 I have a Torch Super Fly Cutter and it's amazing! I also have recently been using their 3/4" Inserted Hog cutter and it has cut my machining time a TON! Definitely worth the investment.
@GarageScience4 ай бұрын
I sent you an email, I can absolutely get you a set of forks that fit the PCNC 1100R3. I'll be making a fixture plate eventually but probably not until I atleast get the fly cutter.
@paulromsky95274 ай бұрын
At 8:30, don't worry about having a slower ramp time, too fast and thermal dynamics (thermal shock) can damage the components and/or PWB. Most profiles are as follows: 1. Room temp. 2. Ramp to hot and stabilize that is safe for components but NOT hot enough to reflow the solder paste (usually 40 F below the reflow point). 3. Hot soak (wait) to be sure every component and the PWB are all at the same NEAR REFLOW temperature (usually about 10 minutes). 4. Ramp up to 10 degrees past the Reflow temperature. The faster the better, but slow is ok as long as you stop heating as soon as all solder points reflow to the solder specs. This is most critical, you don't want to be at the reflow temperature (or much above it) for very long, just enough time to get the solder to reflow correctly. 5. Cool off from the Reflow temperature back down to the safe Soak temperature as soon as possible (shut off hearers and open door for a few seconds). 6. Ramp down to Room temperature (heat off with door closed), slower is actually better here - you are not a high rate production line, so time is not a big factor.
@paulromsky95274 ай бұрын
At 7:04 you just need to put in PID code and adjust the coefficients by trial and error until you get very stable temperature set points. It's not very complicated code, there are plenty of examples of PIDs online.
@RoobieRoo24 ай бұрын
we cannot buy nickel sulphate crystals in UK :(
@GarageScience4 ай бұрын
Now you know how to make it 😏
@RoobieRoo24 ай бұрын
@@GarageScience yes thanks so much XD
@vanessagravelle62284 ай бұрын
Looks like it works well. But why is the coolant pressure higher than before?
@GarageScience4 ай бұрын
The original coolant hose had a 1/4" and 1/16" nozzle. Because area increase exponentially with radius then the total area from all nozzles went from 0.0521in^2 to 0.0122 in^2. The effect of fluid flow restrictions due to friction contributes even further to the disparity. The overall volume of coolant is decreased but the pressure is increased.
@OlgaYablonsky5 ай бұрын
Thanks for the video, I've shared it with my students 😊
@merlinr.sparks5 ай бұрын
does it make a difference if we use Copper Sulfate vs Copper Sulfate Pentahydrate? thanks
@GarageScience5 ай бұрын
No. The pentahydrate just means their is water trapped in the copper Sulfate crystals. But your going to dissolve the crystals in water anyways.
@vernwilson69105 ай бұрын
Thank you for sharing this with me
@user-lv5ij3zn9w5 ай бұрын
The fitting is metric ffs!
@user-lv5ij3zn9w5 ай бұрын
Workshop looks like its been prepared for a serial muderer!
@dsmanman49876 ай бұрын
Hello, thanks for the good idea and informative video. Do you think that if a UV filter was placed in place of the color wheel, would it work? I think in place of the color wheel the filter will be in better thermal conditions than in proximity to the lamp. Thanks and have a nice day
@waterfaII6 ай бұрын
exactly what i wanted
@sipapito6 ай бұрын
I bought one with a 3mm plastic Matt to cover the wood .
@jacobfriesen70786 ай бұрын
Most machines use plastic and I assume it so that the plastic breaks before something else does in case of a tool changer problem. Definitely something to consider.
@GarageScience6 ай бұрын
For sure. Which is why I stress continuing to use the nylon screws to attach the tool holders to the carousel. At least on 440 I've almost always had a tool misfeed push the tool holder out of the carousel and strip the nylon screws. Only on one occasion did the plastic fork itself break first. Thus the Aluminum forks. 😀
@user-in4zs5gc5o6 ай бұрын
Nicely done.
@wwabete20096 ай бұрын
Just go for the electroless plating where you just need to activate steel first by dipping in H2SO4 before dipping it in a Copper Sulphate composite bath!!!
@philipmurray40656 ай бұрын
Why do you think this stops running after a few seconds? At the end of the video it stops running. I mean the main ultrasonic humidifier itself. I tried it in different bowl in different water levels but it does the same thing before even starting this project. kzbin.infoQTjyeZ2T7wk?si=tniPSMeNrakg9NYh
@bobabbott83706 ай бұрын
I just went to your Esty store via your links and got a message saying the page was unavailable.
I also checked the existing links and they all worked. Please let me know if you still can't get to the page.
@bobabbott83706 ай бұрын
Ok..strange..thanks and nice work BTW
@bryansenulis72427 ай бұрын
How much does one cost ...I'd love a 440. How much is a 770. I not really have lot of extra $$ but Good Idea starting off with wood
@GarageScience7 ай бұрын
Tormach.com will let you build out an order and see what it would cost. The barebones mill is pretty cheap. But, tooling up a mill, vices, fixtures etc can get a little pricey.
@EZ_shop7 ай бұрын
Very well thought out engineering. Loved it!
@Saim-fd5ir7 ай бұрын
Do your fep a sheet have sticker on one side? I mean how did the fep a Sheet stick to cured pdms?
@najatnajia72137 ай бұрын
Ni+h2so4/h2o2
@moschettiflavio36357 ай бұрын
Tryed myself , Resulted in a bit of pure nichel sulphate Chrystals, but at the end obtained a lot of yellowish sludge. The Chrystals at the end are not even obtainable as theyr consistency is needle gel/like. I can assure you by the appearance even the Chrystals obtained in your video are not pure blue, they seem more yellowish/ greenish than they should be. Whats the problem? Too much sulfuric acid resulting in sulfuric sludge? Spent a lot of efforts trying to obtain Chrystals from the last 2/3 of solution. Still no results.
@GarageScience7 ай бұрын
Nickel Sulfate is naturally green. If you're getting blue or yellow anything you probably have a contaminate getting mixed in. amzn.to/3voZrIn