Thanks for the info, I could not find anyone who actually told me everything I needed to know. With the pump, possibly something to do with the constituent parts of air reacting? I was thinking about making a small Nickel dish for putting small parts into, have you tried this before?

Thank you very helpful and explained very well

Going down a thermodynamics rabbit hole and landed on this video-I now know way too much about R values (jk thank you!)

What kind of wire did you use to hold the coin

Original recipe link?

Yay!

6:45 "a little bit ", lol, you literally put there another gallon of water and never mentioned it.

So, for me to give an aluminum bath to an iron screw, for example, do I need to zinc it to create "adhesion" to the aluminum? Does it work that way?

I have already managed twice to break down nickel sulfate at 120°C into nickel monoxide (light green powder that is not water soluble) and sulfur trioxide even though it was still in an aqueous solution. Does anyone understand this? Because nickel sulfate only breaks down at 840°C, which is what you read everywhere.

I feel like Im missing something here. you say copper cant plate on iron because iron is higher in the the series. So use tin or nickel instead, but arent they lower than iron too, and isnt that the whole problem?

Hi there Wonderful work! how can i shraing your progam?

Can this be done on zinc plated screws or stripped steel screws?

Great Job!

Never understand why people are so salty and want to leave negative comments about someones experience with new machinery, like chill y'all. that be said THANK YOU for sharing your experience! currently building my 440 up and this was a great help....the instructions seems to leave out some key details here and there.

Thanks ❤

Nice ❤

Hi, is sulfuric acid required to lower the pH of the bath?

Doing resoration of vintage pieces like radio and bicycle parts. So I should nickel plate first then copper plate with brighners to fill in rust pits and scratches and polish before a final nickel plate. If you do automotive body work its kind of like putting on primer to make the body filler stick. Things are making sense.

thank you sir

Please! Protect your breathing!

Do you use any type of Chemical cleaners or Surface activators (aka: Pickling bath) I read a DIY company who sells DIY kits for home & hobby use advocating them. What they call the “Surface Activator “ is a [Sulphuric acid] solution. And the cleaner Solution used before the Sulphuric acid is weak HCI Solution. 📍I’ve only seen the online DIY folks using a HCI solution before they do the Nickel Plating process. 📍Any suggestions with either of these ? Or maybe something else you prefer? Thanks for your content!! Lee

Great video!! Interesting looking crystals.

It’s funny because I have no issues with chips on the front but I’m having this issue behind the table on the Y bellows and about to do this back there…

Great video Thanks

Looks good! Any update videos planned for the 440? Maybe showing off some parts you've made with it, and how its fitting your needs (or not).

Would've been helpful if you would have done things in-frame, yeah?

Advice for cleaning the mirrors? Please

BRAVO! this is awesome. I sent you a message on your Etsy store. Also I wanted to let you know on my PCNC1100R3 I have a Torch Super Fly Cutter and it's amazing! I also have recently been using their 3/4" Inserted Hog cutter and it has cut my machining time a TON! Definitely worth the investment.

At 8:30, don't worry about having a slower ramp time, too fast and thermal dynamics (thermal shock) can damage the components and/or PWB. Most profiles are as follows: 1. Room temp. 2. Ramp to hot and stabilize that is safe for components but NOT hot enough to reflow the solder paste (usually 40 F below the reflow point). 3. Hot soak (wait) to be sure every component and the PWB are all at the same NEAR REFLOW temperature (usually about 10 minutes). 4. Ramp up to 10 degrees past the Reflow temperature. The faster the better, but slow is ok as long as you stop heating as soon as all solder points reflow to the solder specs. This is most critical, you don't want to be at the reflow temperature (or much above it) for very long, just enough time to get the solder to reflow correctly. 5. Cool off from the Reflow temperature back down to the safe Soak temperature as soon as possible (shut off hearers and open door for a few seconds). 6. Ramp down to Room temperature (heat off with door closed), slower is actually better here - you are not a high rate production line, so time is not a big factor.

At 7:04 you just need to put in PID code and adjust the coefficients by trial and error until you get very stable temperature set points. It's not very complicated code, there are plenty of examples of PIDs online.

we cannot buy nickel sulphate crystals in UK :(

Looks like it works well. But why is the coolant pressure higher than before?

Thanks for the video, I've shared it with my students 😊

does it make a difference if we use Copper Sulfate vs Copper Sulfate Pentahydrate? thanks

Thank you for sharing this with me

The fitting is metric ffs!

Workshop looks like its been prepared for a serial muderer!

Hello, thanks for the good idea and informative video. Do you think that if a UV filter was placed in place of the color wheel, would it work? I think in place of the color wheel the filter will be in better thermal conditions than in proximity to the lamp. Thanks and have a nice day

exactly what i wanted

I bought one with a 3mm plastic Matt to cover the wood .

Most machines use plastic and I assume it so that the plastic breaks before something else does in case of a tool changer problem. Definitely something to consider.

Nicely done.

Just go for the electroless plating where you just need to activate steel first by dipping in H2SO4 before dipping it in a Copper Sulphate composite bath!!!

Why do you think this stops running after a few seconds? At the end of the video it stops running. I mean the main ultrasonic humidifier itself. I tried it in different bowl in different water levels but it does the same thing before even starting this project. kzbin.infoQTjyeZ2T7wk?si=tniPSMeNrakg9NYh

I just went to your Esty store via your links and got a message saying the page was unavailable.

How much does one cost ...I'd love a 440. How much is a 770. I not really have lot of extra $$ but Good Idea starting off with wood

Very well thought out engineering. Loved it!

Do your fep a sheet have sticker on one side? I mean how did the fep a Sheet stick to cured pdms?

Ni+h2so4/h2o2

Tryed myself , Resulted in a bit of pure nichel sulphate Chrystals, but at the end obtained a lot of yellowish sludge. The Chrystals at the end are not even obtainable as theyr consistency is needle gel/like. I can assure you by the appearance even the Chrystals obtained in your video are not pure blue, they seem more yellowish/ greenish than they should be. Whats the problem? Too much sulfuric acid resulting in sulfuric sludge? Spent a lot of efforts trying to obtain Chrystals from the last 2/3 of solution. Still no results.