@@zeroclipstudiocom To answer the second question because that’s simple.. yes more holding weight means the same thing as less let off. I wouldn’t ever recommend a percentage. I would recommend whatever each Individual can handle well. I’m not telling people what’s best because I can’t. I’m telling them how to determine what’s best for them, and that’s key. And I have a video on the D loop thing on my Instagram and Facebook. You tie the d loop on with your bow fully set up. Don’t tie the center ties though, then aim and shoot the bow and then twist it to move it up the string, then do the same and aim and shoot it again. So you are just doing a guess and check to see at what d loop height your bow aims best. That’s one of the most simple steps in there. Once you find a place you like then tie in the center ties :)

@@zeroclipstudiocom here’s the link to that video for further clarification. instagram.com/reel/ClpL9VhuOs1/?igsh=a3VvM2prMG82aG1x

Sorry read your reply to another question they asked something similar great info thanks 👍

@@HumanBeingPresent so go watch the other video talking about how I decide my shoulder placement! That will explain the shoulder in detail!

@@alang269 you don’t! It’s just guess and check. The more you do it and learn your set up you’ll learn enough to have an idea but it’s still trial and error. I never run a high bareshaft though so that’s never something I’ll try. You don’t want a low tear. But if you have a wide left and tight group and you move it left and it gets worse, and more left and still bad, then go to the right. I have found that sometimes I’ll fight it with an arrow spine and I never get it really as good as I want, and then I switch spines and then it works like a dream. And both are good for my specs it’s just giving the bow what it wants and you never know unless you try. If you have questions go to my Instagram highlight reel called random tips and I have a bunch of group tuning stories on there that will help more!

@@Pattyboybx No not at all. This would be a baddd way to tune broadheads. Broadheads you really do want great arrow flight. On a target set up it’s not important, but on a hunting set up I tune to have my Broadheads and field tips hit together at all distances, which means you have the best arrow flight possible :) So definitely don’t apply this to hunting, but it’s a great thing to try for target!

@@PaigePearceinsight got it. Thank you.

@@HuckFTW 2nd axis is labeled on my sight (I shoot an Axcel) and that is when you level the bubble in the scope to the vertical bar that the scope moves up and down on. First axis is the tilt of that vertical bar where it attaches to the bar that is on your bow. I have a whole video on here about how to level your sight that shows all of that and goes through each step. You should watch that just so it’s 100% clear! :)

@@PaigePearceinsightperfect, that video cleared things right up. Thanks!

@@mikekage9895 3rd axis is important and should be level. I have a video on here called how to level your sight and if you need help leveling you should watch that. I do my 3rd axis always with a Hamskea at full draw so it takes my torque into consideration. If I leveled 3rd in a vice it wouldn’t be correct at all. But moving your third around won’t change how the bow aims or fighting the aim of your bow really. So that’s why it’s not mentioned in this video because that doesn’t have to do with the aiming part. But it is important and I cover it in the sight leveling video :)