Argh...I am still PO ed they lowered the standards. Check your vacuum lines, if they are older than 10 yrs replace, also check the air duct piping for the air filter box to throttle body, for any leaks, and replace. I found a cheapie new one on ebay and replaced the hoses and it helped. Also, do not anything to the car but take it do another station. Denver S. Lipan, or Golden. I have found wildly different readings from station to station on same day for the same car. One station I failed and the other one I passed and I did nothing different.

@denverhomestead1003 I've had at least one other person tell me to try a different place. He's not a particularly trustworthy source of this kind of information, but that doesn't mean he's wrong, and since you're also suggesting it I'm going to have to give it a try. I'm driving on expired temp tags now, so I don't want to go too far, but I'll probably be alright. I'm considering selling it if it doesn't pass this time. It's a good, smooth running Crown Vic, and somebody outside the metro, that doesn't have to show emissions will snatch it up fast, I suspect.

PS: the wood is held tight to the table with a table clamp.

You can test the resistance with a Ohm meter on the multimeter. But I do not know what the values should be. The ignitors are very fragile. If there is a value with continuity then it should be ok? If you have to replace it, I would suggest to but 2 or more. Incase you drop it, (it breaks) you have a backup. Maybe check the furnace tech sheet for ohm ratings. Basically the ignitor heats up "red" hot to light the burners, so hence it is heating element. Again not sure what the values should be.

Replace all the vacuum lines, replace the fuel filter, air, and oil filters, and recent oil change. Go to another station. Try Golden, S. Lipan, or Broomfield. New tune up. Drive it on the highway for at least 20 mins or more before you take it for testing. I recently had this party fun, and found the air ducting to air filter plastic housing was cracked at the throttle body which caused air to enter and hence running lean and hotter. A new ebay or Amazon unit and new silicon vacuum lines helped me pass. Also went to another station which had totally different results. Go on a colder and windy day if possible. I recently went through this and was very frustrated. I am working on a another video and hope to have it posted in a few weeks. Good luck!

Also run fuel system cleaner through it

Thanks!

That is a bummer. Try another station, replace vacuum lines, check or replace 02 sensors, also the: CRC 05063 12 Fluid Ounce Guaranteed to Pass Emissions works too. Good luck. I am working on a new "how to pass emissions tests" video and hope to have it posted in a few weeks.

Also included new cats, and exhaust.

Great tip

It should just pull up the cartridge.

Hi. Just went back over your video and saw my answer. Yes unscrew brass piece then cartridge comes right out. Thank you Sir. Mike i S.I.N.Y.

Sweet sounds good. Great idea. Thanks!

True, true. I agree with you. However, we know a family friend who did that DIY with no previous experience with a backhoe or plumbing and it took him 3 months after getting city approval with the proper permits, and inspections and time from his day job.

@@denverhomestead1003 I did it and I'm no plumber and it was approved quickly

Hmm...I think some of those motors require a controller board to send a signal from the switch to the motor for "safety." Most likely it would be AC. If you are seeing sparks then the brushes are toast. There maybe a safety switch somewhere too. Have you tried Toro's service site and download the parts diagram? I do see a motor but no number. www.toro.com/getpub/178570 From Toro's diagram it shows the wire pack but I cannot see how it connects to the motor. Have you tried finding a replacement from Grainger? For another project to replace my mom's 65+ yrs old Necchi sewing machine motor I went to Grainger's site and found size, etc. to match and wired it direct. Good luck and be careful working around electricity

@@denverhomestead1003 Than you for responding to my request - thank you very much for the parts catalog. Yesterday, I finally got the leaf blower operating again. Whoa Nellie! I disassembled the core motor subassembly; thus removing the rotor from the stator as I was inspecting the rotor I thought how could I clean the rotor better because I had already removed the carbon-char a few days ago and the copper contacts appeared very clean compared to my initial inspection of the rotor. I was brainstorming on which hand tool is best to remove the carbon-char from the copper contacts on the commutator. I finally remembered that I should try the metal file. I commenced using the metal file to scrape the copper contacts for a about 15 minutes until I concluded that it is my best effort. I was real careful on the tips where the core copper wires from the armature loop around the copper contact hooks (pitch or file marks?) on the commutator [in the Study Questions and Illustrations section of the book title Electric Motor Repair by Robert Rosenberg on page 136, figure 6-45] I followed-up by cleaning all copper surfaces with the isopropyl alcohol. Once I was ready to reassemble the parts I thought - "hey the switch is isolated, so I tested the continuity by plugging the plug into a extension cord that was plugged into the wall socket, I closed the circuit with my old Archer-Kit Analog Volt-Ohm-Milliammeter (aka VOM, Multimeter), after turning the switch to on to max blowing the switch tested good. I also realized that maybe I always incorrectly used wire-nuts, so this time I inserted the wires loosely together into the wire-nut and then twisted until I couldn't twist anymore. [I always twisted the pair of wires with my fingers then placed the wire-nut on the twisted-pair and twisted again.]. After setting the motor and fan-rocket subassembly into the casing I tested it again by plugging the plug into a extension cord and that was plugged into the wall socket, Geez Louise I was happy! I assembled the cover, which meant I finally got every part aligned correctly! My leaf blower is back in action! THANKS

@@PappyNet01 Great news indeed! Glad to hear it worked out!

True. I know what you mean

I am the same way. I research and research and try to find all methods and options which work best for me for example: tools, supplies availability, with my skills, knowledge, time, interest and motivation.

Excellent, excellent reply! I totally agree with you! Yep my 1998 4Runner (well maintained) still experiences the same. I recently June 2024, took 4 re-tries to pass. All of the new cars are computer controlled, so you cannot (aside from a CPU reprogramming) change anything (timing, rich/lean) like you could in the old days. It is very, very annoying! In addition, they lowered the limits so those with old cars struggle to play the emissions game. Exactly like you said with NOx. I recently spent about $900 in fuel additives, and replacement parts: MAF, spark plugs, vacuum hoses, new air duct from filter box to throttle body, both O2, air filter, and PCV. Just to get it to squeak by to barely pass. It is very frustrating because it is a well maintained vehicle. Oh: After I failed the 3 time: I took it to a special Emissions Training facility for them to look at it. Although it was a free inspection. They said I need a CA CARB CAT. Mine: Is <5k miles and a Federal cat. I was not about to spend another $800 to be CA Commie compliant. So back to the adding a bunch of crap to the tank. Someone said: Adjust the fuel trim: HOW? Exactly. All of that is control via the computer. Again only way I know is via a ECM computer chip.

Yeah I know now. Thanks

I just used 16 bottles (June 2024 for the test) and I have not experienced any negative issues. However, I am not a professional so use at your own risk.

@@denverhomestead1003 did 7 bottles not work anymore so you had to move up. same amount of gas?

@@xprtgamerz9962 Yeah you are right. I just had to go through this fun. I tried 16 bottles with no success. I replaced almost every flipping sensor, ran a few tank fulls of fuel injector cleaner, and a bottle of Octane booster. Drove the crap out the 4 Runner and it finally passed (barely). Note: If you are not passing and everything is good, tune up. Go to a different stations So even though I dearly love HEET but sometimes it takes another approach. I

Good point. I know what you mean. Sounds like it was a good deal, but how often would you use it vs the space.

I know, I know. Yep, I agree with you. I think they "The Plumbers" did a scare tactic and wanted a job. The only "good" point they had which sealed the deal was: He said it is only going to get more expensive as the years go on, like everything else. Knowing me, like everyone else, you forget about it, and then one day it becomes a bigger mess and problem. My neighbor next door had theirs replaced (used a different plumber) but they had to rip up half the street and it cost $32k. I guess pay now or pay a lot more later. A word to those with "new" homes or new builds. You still need to have it scoped. I have heard horror stories where the builder never connected the main sewer. Thank you for the comments.

I totally agree with you on getting a scope and every homeowner should have one.

Hi thanks I am still learning on using a tripod

I’m having the exact same issue. Did you ever find the right solution?

3 mm hex wrench

@@denverhomestead1003 Almost. Slightly big. 2.5mm worked here at last.

Is the cartridge stuck inside? Maybe there is some corrosion? I little vinegar soak it for a few minutes?

Good luck. Not sure why Dewalt did that it did not make any sense to me.

Great tip, congrads on passing

Thanks for the reply

Maybe try a little vinegar and let it work into the threads? Or WD40? Do you have a strap wrench? If not maybe wrap an old leather belt around the bonnet nut and use a locking pliers or pipe wrench to break it free

@@denverhomestead1003 Thank you for the tips! I will try that!

@@denverhomestead1003 Thank you! I will give that a try!

@@freerange_caligator were you able to open it up?

@@desr924 no! I tried, my husband tried and I had another guy that came to help me replace my bath fixture try and none of us could get it off 🫠 I’m ready to replace the damn thing!

Now you tell me (jk). Yeah I know now. Well most of my neighbors are changing theirs out, so it is only a matter of time since the area is the same vintage. One point the plumber did make it will only get more expensive each year. Thanks for the note.

I agree for the most part. The best looking clay line I’ve seen. The issue was probably at the 3”to4” cast to clay connection. Maybe needed rootered once every 5-10 years. In the ones

And 2000-5000 a foot???? Damn I’m moving to Denver to replace sewer lines there

@@UZCOexcavationexperience Thanks for the note. I know I could have waited but eventually due to inflation it would have cost a lot more.

Glad you found the issue! Thanks!

@@denverhomestead1003 thank you GODBLESS!!!!

Yes I agree. I wish they still made them. They were well made. They only make them for the big box stores. The saws get a bad rap

Haha you said it! yep. $15k for 6 hours work or $2500 per hour wow in the wrong business.

Good luck and always scope any home before you buy

Where are you located? If near Utah i can help you for way way way cheaper then any plumber. I just did a 55’ line replacement in the exterior and also replaced all of his crawl space and the interior inside his walls all for under $10 k

I thought about it, but was in a hurry to complete the job

So far my experience has been positive. I know there have been tests here on KZbin claiming less wear. I am taking their word.

Amsoil is great stuff Amsoil SS is a nice PAO base oil pretty much stopping engine wear in its tracks . But Mobil 1 is also not too shabby all depends on your budget

@@oliverramclam6009 how about the amsoil OE series good also ?

@@playstation2bigs it’s the same level of protection you can get at any auto parts store

@@oliverramclam6009 Yep I agree. I wanted to try something different.