Would you know how I can achieve the same result using a Z21

I have a DCC-EX setup with an Android tablet and EngineDriver. It runs beautifully, operates 20+ servo point motors, 20+ Dapol semaphore signals and has automation using over 30 hall effect sensors. No PC or JMRI in sight. Superb results for last 18 months. I set out to avoid commercial kit, avoid a PC and avoid JMRI. All achieved.

Wy not do the poly filler and the painting before laying the track ?

I could never be brave enough to handle that .. too delicate for me.. well done m8.. 👍

I take it you now use HM7000 instead of raspberry pi ?

What are the dimensions of your lay out ? Subbed !

I have two DCC-EX setups. One uses Arduino Motor Shield REV3 while the second one uses the EX-MotorShield8874 RevA and all use the 20 x4 display. They work fine accept the display for EX-MotorShield8874 RevA doesn’t work, it lights up but I get no text. Both displays work’s fine when hooked to the Arduino Motor Shield REV3. The only thing I can figure is that the EX-MotorShield8874 RevA is marked wrong (SDA and SCL is reversed) Can you please help!

Great to see the progress, thanks for sharing👍🌟👌🚂Regards Elizabeth

Great to see the progress here too. Very sorry to hear of your family bereavement. Trust you are doing well.

Great to see it at this stage. It’s come together beautifully. Very well done there.

Very nice transformation, looks fantastic 😎😎😎

Looking brillaint, can't wait to see how it runs out!

Just wondering, how many coaches can Mallard pull around the layout?🤔

I like the trackplan - I see you're using PECO flexitrack - Are the points PECO or Hornby?

I’ve fitted the decoder, programmed it and got the sounds working. I use the Roco Z21 command station in conjunction with iTrain. But also use the Z21 app on my iPad to program the loco. when I tried it on my test layout it struggled a bit and when I tapped on the engine sound it cut out and I got a red light on the Z21 denoting a short. Now I can’t even reset it because as soon as I place it on the layout or program track it cuts out. Doh!

Hi Andrew I’m about to fit one of those decoders next week. Are the 4 screws the very 4 outer ones at the very end/edge of the chassis? Or are they the 4 that are just in from those? Are you a follower of Jesus by any chance as you have some very interesting books there? No need to answer that one 😄 Many thanks Steve

I find that spraying with water and a drop of washing up liquid before applying the glue really helps it to soak the ballast fully.

Great video, with very useful information. I started watching this last week, mainly out of curiousity after reading about the issue on the JMRI website. I have two of these wifi boards, I have only used one so far, without any issue and I am hoping the other one has the same firmware. I didn't realise until today when I saw the list of names from yesterday that we had briefly met. Dave

Good meeting you today with Charlie. You seem to have made a solid start.

Hi Andrew. There's been a lot of work done since your last video - is it the same layout (LOL)?

Hi did you say u we’re leaving a link 👍

It’s looking good. Even a little progress is worth noting. Little and often.

Wery poor video

Awesome work... I was struggling a bit on this however this is a savior. Thanks a lot. It would be helpful to elaborate on choosing the ground pin on the WIFI shield or show exact location. On Makerfabs website the schematic shows pin 15 as GND hence bit confused.

I've ordered the EX-WIFIShield 8266 on tindie, comes from dcc-ex in the US with the firmware already done, hopefully!

Just in case you're not aware, what is presumably your full name is visible in the iOS command prompt! Enjoying your progress! Regards, Chris

I fitted the non sound version of the Zimo decoder but with a Lais stay alive. This does make it a superb shunting loco as it can crawl along at very realistic speeds with no issues at all. I might revisit this fitting and put in sound, although I filled the front end of the body shell with lead shot to increase the weight so that would have to come out.

You have a terminal shield from Jack. Why not just use a ESP8266 serial wifi? Thx

Thanks for that. I’ve recently bought an 08 shunter myself TT 120 and got a price for fitting decoder a stay alive which also included lights and two drivers in the cab and a front and rear light and they wanted £350 for doing that, so you might just be onto something 🤣 👌🎅🏻🚂

Well done! You said you would remove the blue wires for the stay alive, and by Jove you did! I was hoping you would leave a short length, just in case you changed your mind. Wishing you a very Merry Xmas and all best wishes for the New Year.

Thank you for this - very useful. I'm going to give it a go so you posting this was very good timing!

Spiff! You've got a wonderful project on your hands there my friend :)

Nicely done. My own hope is that somehow I can get the 6pin HM7k decoder (when it comes out!) and a stay alive into it. Not so fussed on sound but the power bank should make it super reliable for shunting.

Have been trying to load my mega, numerous times, to no avail. Question how long did it take to download data on to the mega. Thanks

Great work showing the update on the wifi board. I plan on going the other way as I have tried, owned and sold many of the comercial systems and moving everything to DCC-EX.

This is the path I am travelling - thank you for the demo of how you have done it and the gotchas.

Have been following and enjoying your command station DCC -EX articles. Using a Windows pc, I have installed, loaded and tested the v3.85, but would like to load v2.3. When I select v2.3 on the (available here) DCC-EX site it takes me to the ESPRESSIF website. I downloaded "Flash_Download_Tool_v2.3_150916.rar. " When I try to open it, I get a red X in a circle and the following: The file does not have an app associated with it for performing this action. Please install an App of if one is already installed, create an association in default apps setting page. Can you please tell me what I'm doing wrong or missing?

🌸 *Promosm*

Good!

Great track plan for watching trains go by, lots of scope for nice scenery

Excellent keep up the good work

Fun. A great start.

You may also want to consider extra dropper wires if you want trains to stop at signals, stations etc… a long with track being isolated.

There is enough of a gap between sleepers to solder. Cut away the plastic, use some flux and tin the track and wire. Using a single core makes it easier, just bend with the wire pointing out.

Very nice to see your progress and your thought process. Looking forward to follow along as you go.

Hope to follow your progress.

Good start... & good luck 👍

weirdly please to watch, like waiting for a phoenix

I'm guilty of collecting locomotive and doing not much else. I wasn't aware of f2 and f29, which makes no sense in a vehicle the brake is next to the accelerate, and it would make for a better configuration of functions. I use the Z21, which allows me to more f29 next to f2. That said, it still means both need to be activated. Let's hope Accurascale does not do the same for the Class 50.