@@danielseverino8701 thank you

It's good for hitting leather now, as I explained in the pinned comment...

Before my intervention it was 100% wasted

that's why I brought it home, it made me laugh.

@@peternorthe1912 true

@@junelpacudan1993 thank you, I appreciate

شكرا لك على تعليقك اللطيف

It was my first leatherworking project, honestly I didn't feel ready to give advice, however you're right I should write some more captions, thanks for pointing that out.

Thanks for your kind thoughts. What tools are you talking about? Maybe they are just uncommon or you use other ones instead.

Спасибо за ваш добрый комментарий и поддержку.

@@titol34 thanks to you for the appreciation and for the kind comment.

I agree with you and thank you for all this information, I appreciate it very much. With this hammer I went much further because I will use it for leather work, to hammer the seams and not ruin the leather, I explained the use I will make of it in the pinned comment.

@@txm11-t4u thanks for the kind words, I really appreciate.

What do you mean the pieces aren't 90? I use hss because they make less tearout on the output if you don't have support, I use brad point at the drill press

Thanks for your appreciation, I'm glad to hear it.

Thanks for your kind comment. The press was built for the dremel to use as a drill press, but since I was not using it anymore I started modifying it for leather goods, but I did not film because it required a lot of trial and error and failure. Maybe I will make a video where I show how it is made and how I use it, but it will not be a step by step construction. The main task is to not make noise when I punch the leather, but I also created an insert to put the rivets.

Thank you for the support.

Thank you very much for your kind comment, I'm glad I made things difficult for you with the choice. The sanding station is a tool that I use a lot, I always keep it on hand with 2 grit of sandpaper mounted (120 and 240). Thanks also for your support to the channel, much appreciated.

Muchas gracias por tus amables pensamientos, lo que dices es cierto. Tengo algunas herramientas familiares a las que están unidos los recuerdos y recuperarlos ciertamente me da mucha satisfacción. Gracias por tu apoyo.

@@chrishanson6119 I only used the drill press to make the thumb recess, which can easily be done with a drill.

Even a drill press can be out of square, am I wrong ?

You can use this block when the piece is too big for the drill press. Use your imagination!

Needing to drill a hole just out of reach of the press is one of the most annoying things ever. That's when you would need something like this. Though, I would just go out and buy a jig with an honest steel bushing. This is a lot of work for something that's just going to get wallered out pretty quickly.

​@beauprejean-michel3829 Yes and no; it just depends on how square you need your holes to be. There's no such thing as a perfectly square tool and even if there was, any method you use would reduce that "squareness" in one way or another. Drilling is an inherently imprecise operation due to flexing in the drill (the "bit"). Obviously, longer and thinner drills will flex more, even in a drill press, which causes the tip to wander out of "squareness" as it enters/feeds through the workpart. This is one of the reasons we use pilot holes, punch marking, or more preferably, spotting with center drills. The walls of the pilot/punch/spot cause the tip of the drill to self-center as it enters to workpart. This reduces the amount of flexing in the drill which improves the "squareness" of the hole. The best thing you can do to improve "squareness" is use shorter, thicker drills. The second best thing is using a jig with a guide as close to the chuck as possible. The third best thing you can do is spotting with a center drill. The fourth best thing is using multiple graduating pilot holes.

@@CerealKillerPhD thank you so much for your kind comment and support, I really appreciate.

Thank you for sharing your story, I really appreciate it. Don't limit yourself, be patient and persistent, you can learn everything and with a few tools you can do a lot (I started the channel with just an electric drill and a dremel). I'm really happy if I inspired you and I'm sure you'll find it very rewarding to build your own tools and do woodworking. Thanks also for supporting the channel.

@@LTMS I have made some things. I enjoy smoking a pipe and made some pipe stands. I enjoy using exotic woods. I wish I had some way to get pictures to you of them. I also enjoy making wood coasters to sit your drinks on. I've started on a set that will be made out African Blackwood with Amboyna Burl trim . I made 1 set with a Walnut base with black and white ebony. The coasters are made from Apple wood. When I figure out a way to take pictures of my work and send them to you, I will. I want to work with small pieces like you do.

@@Tommy-p9u I would be happy to see your work. You can upload the photos on some platform and then send me an email with the link. In the channel information you can find my email. You can also create an Instagram page and show your work to everyone, I'm sure many would appreciate it.

I'm glad you liked my "accidents". "Do the best you can with what you have" and if you don't have it, just make it. Thanks for your kind comment, I appreciate it.

Do you mean a block of wood with a pilot hole like I showed in the video from 00:42 to 01:30 or something different?

@@LTMS Just a hardwood block with a pilot hole. With brad drill bits of course.

I have the Minecraft block and I can't drill straight. There is a bit of play in there.

@@b3arwithm3 Have tried with brad drill bits?

@@jasonrobinson9524 thanks to you for the appreciation and for the kind comment and support.

No, the wear is irrelevant, in three years it hasn't even taken off the paint. If you're worried about that you can always hang the saws with the teeth facing out. (except the Ryoba)

Thank you for the kind comment, I appreciate.

@@carlitos8911 thank you, I appreciate your thoughts.

Threading hardwood has never given me any problems. Also, a few days ago I saw a video where they tested the breaking point of threads in wood and threaded nuts and guess what... threaded nuts gave the worst results, the video was called "this is the problem with threaded inserts" the video had some gaps but interesting the result. BTW I always use inserts in soft wood or plywood and if I make mistakes so be it, I learn and improve.

Thank you very much for your kind comment. It's nice when the style is appreciated because it requires a lot of work done in this way. 10 minutes of video require between 130 and 150 shots at different angles. (I do it like this because I like it and it amuses me) About the shinto rasp I've already thought about it several times but then I always forget to look for one... maybe one day :)

Thanks for your kind thought mate. The hardwood should worn out very little, however it is quick and easy to remake. I glued it but I just realized that if I assembled it with screws it would be easy to disassemble and remove imperfections due to heavy use by sanding or planing.

@@LTMS still it's pretty impressive. At least you will know for next time. Still I thought it was pretty impressive .

@@Austeration The trend on YT is to make overly complicated jigs, which certainly impress the viewer, but I like simple and practical things, those that work.

@@LTMS the KISS concept is always the best way that's for sure.

Thank you, Master of the Forge.

Thanks to you for the kind support. Thanks also from "Bombo" (the little one with the pointed ears)

Thanks for letting me know, I appreciate.

Honestly I don't remember, I bought them a couple of years ago on Amazon in the medium price range (35/40 € each) and I was surprised by the quality/price ratio.

@@LTMS thank you

Thanks for your kind comment and also the advice. (I use them because they make less tearout on the through holes)

@@LTMS for problems like tearout, which I learned with spade bits and bits with brad points, is that when you're close to the end put you finger underneath. You can feel when the point comes through, then you flip it over and drill from that side which gives a nice clean edge. You're doing fine, and I love your videos (especially the editing), but if you want to switch to brad point bits then that's a tip I learned.

​@@TheMeatyBoosh Thanks for the advice, I usually use them on the drill press because there is the base support that prevents tear out, and also if I have to put in some dowel pins I use them.

Thank you 🤗🙂

Honestly I had thought about metal, but I noticed that with the prototype (made of pine) it worn out little with small drill bits (up to 5 mm), the problem could be with large bits. The sandpaper is a great idea, I like it a lot. Thanks for sharing your thoughts, I really appreciate it.

I'm glad I could help you with my idea. Thanks for letting me know.

I didn't make a video about it. It's just a switch connected to a cyclonic separator for sawdust and a 50€ vacuum cleaner. I watched some videos about vacuum cleaner switches for inspiration, there are really a lot of them.

Ti ringrazio molto. Thanks for your kind comment. Realmente lo aprecié, gracias. Mercì.

Thank you

I had the same question and it looks like a handheld countersink/reamer. I’ve always used countersink bits in drills and idk why it never occurred to me to do it by hand it seems much more efficient and you’ll be able to prevent over boring the countersink.

Thanks

Gracias por tus amables pensamientos, realmente lo aprecio.

Spero che almeno ti sia piaciuto il video :)

I really appreciate your support for the channel, thank you for the kind comment.