Ah, also, if you want my personal contact info, I only do track days ATM, but I buy the number 777 for 206 Senior and Masters class

@@karimali7602 Cool, I will contact you, I have been wondering what you were up to anyway!

Both use a single Z stepper with a long belt connecting each screw. I have not had to set the nozzle height on either machine. I need to read the documents on bed leveling because something weird is going on. Single belt, so the machine can't move the bed like a Railcore can. It can adjust extrusion amounts. So I definitely need to set the machine bed off level to see what it does, if I get an error code with directions or if it acts like a Railcore and fixes itself.

Yes

@@Johns3DPrintingCorner a good alternative to adjust the z offset is the first layer height setting and first laye extrusion width in Bambus slicer if your not using their slicer this will also work on orca slicer prusa slicer super slicer and prus slicer hope this helps

Yes, PETG soon. The Bambu slicer is not all that bad, pros and cons but really a polished product. I am in Dallas now and I can start prints. Granted the heatbed needs a fresh plate, so it would be cool to see a plate changing robot!

@@Johns3DPrintingCorner or something similar to what tiertime X5 has

I am afraid to try faster speeds! Maybe next week.... ;)

I have a friend with a farm of Minis, what did you end up doing? I am building a new print studio finally, I am excited to be able to share this great hobby again. I mainly print for a business, so creating videos gives me the excuses to print for fun as well!

@@Johns3DPrintingCorner I sold 6 machines and bought 14 minis! I still have my old mk2 with 16k hours.. it’s pretty much just there for nostalgia now.. also still have several sovol printers that have been upgraded along with a few creality. I also just bought an SV06 but have yet to unbox it. I was looking forward to test an all metal hotend printer in that price point. We do a lot of custom tap handles alongside our other small products so the slightly larger build size is needed for those.

@@oneheadlight8000 Nice! Congratulations! I picked up two resin machines that I swore off a few years ago. The resins have really stepped up, still a big learning curve and suiting up to grab prints off the plates. ;)

@@Johns3DPrintingCorner I don’t have one yet but was so tempted by one of the recent deals on Black Friday.. may get one eventually. I’m in Michigan and don’t have a great ventilation system for resin. I run custom hepa filters for the PETG printing.

check amps and microstep

The SLA machines are pretty silent, mostly stepper noises.

I like coated and magnetic beds the best these days, especially on a surface that is flat enough to not need active mesh compensation.

Both and a few types of flex.

I think they have an improved version based on mine, let me text them and find out.

@@Johns3DPrintingCorner Much appreciated. I received the Kickstarter Pico Hybrid, but have no way to attach it.

@@davidbradshaw7358 www.thingiverse.com/search?q=Metaformllc&type=things&sort=relevant see if these work for you.

My friends really like the Bondtech upgrade, it did really help them be able to use a wider range of filament.

I think the third saw the cameras and ran!

@@Johns3DPrintingCorner hahah, great video buddy! Just subbed as well. I'm expecting mine within the week as well! Did you manage to convert it to dd?

@@jsal92 sadly depending on how you look at it, it is now at a local school. It is running fine for them, they did have to replace the bed thermistor. A local friend upgraded his with the bondtech mod and has not seen any issues, no filament grinding.

@@Johns3DPrintingCorner I'm happy for the school! I wish we had some 3d printers when I was in.

@@jsal92 so true, I went to school when they had one dot matrix printer in a soundproof chamber! Lol

I hate to admit I don't remember. It was not far off from the stock Prusa setting, maybe three full turns tighter.

@@Johns3DPrintingCorner Got it. Thanks for the reply! I'll have to investigate further. Best I got was about 95% through a XYZ cube flawlessly and then it bunched in the extruder. It's always just a matter of how long it takes until it happens.

@@Nardypants just out of curiosity are you drying the filament first and/or during the print? I do run filament dryers on all my production machines.

@@Johns3DPrintingCorner Not during. I was relying on the oven since I didn't need a dedicated dryer before, but I guess a one spool dryer might be worth a try for such a finicky filament.

@@Nardypants My oven was melting the rolls! LOL There are some affordable options now, some on Thingiverse or PrusaPrinters.org and then commercial solutions like PrintDry. I have all three generations of the PrintDry. I like the new one except that I can't control it with a timer switch. My old dryers I have on timer switches so they only turn on a few times per day.

It was the softer Filaflex40 stock profile with adjustments made for the manufacturer Temps. I don't know if I saved a plate file, but if I did I will post a link.

I would have to watch my video again. Ha ha I like Linus but I don't remember borrowing any humor from him, so now you have me curious!

I have stealthchop enabled on anything but the extruder, but you SHOULD switch the fans, they're the loudest thing on the printer by far.

Just the mini, I have not had time to update it to the mini + but since it is fine I am happy. Ha ha The different color was just for fun.

Filaflex40 but double check the temperatures. I tried 0.2mm and 0.15mm Quality profiles.

@@Johns3DPrintingCorner great - thanks!

Looks interesting, I will have to order to play with. Not sure if the extra weight will work.

@@Johns3DPrintingCorner let me know when you try it..... Will do it if it works..... I'm new and just now getting a mini+ to start with....

@@michaeld4502 sounds good, also trying the Pico hotend soon and a friend installed the BMG and is happy with it.

I finally got the H2, took forever to arrive. I am going to mount it on an Ender or my Hevo for testing.

Doing good thanks, still trying to catch up.

Mostly silent, the majority of sound comes from the cooling fans. I don't remember the decibels but it was only a point or two louder than my Craftbot3 which is creepy silent.

One of my friends was using various 0.5mm nozzles with no issue on PETG or PCTG.

3D printers do all have a learning curve, with this machine it is something that will work (with minor assembly) out of the box. Support is great and normally quick to chat, user support is huge with possibly one of the largest forum communities. The included slicer profiles are great, and if you stick with quality filaments you will be pretty good. Avoid off brand filaments or ask the community first. Hatchbox, Polymaker, Prusa, Atomic, 3DXtech are very safe for beginners and experts. Pay attention to the filament Temps, if you pick up a higher temperature PLA but don't adjust for it you will grind the filament extruder gear. They tend to hold a good resale value. If you decide you do not like the hobby, you won't lose $300 just from turning it on. Like any machine setting the first layer calibration is important. The online guides and instruction manual will help you here. It is also not a bad workhorse machine either, you don't have to worry as much about keeping wheels clean. If you like to tinker and upgrade you will find a few mods most notably is the Bondtech extruder.

I am a user first, obviously a video maker 32nd or so.. Lol I do have a broken Mini here to troubleshoot, at first glance it appears to have a break in the bed wires. It has more runtime than my Mini and it was from the first October batch (2019?). Not a huge deal, I have had to replace the bed wires on a few printer brands over the years. I will have time next week to really look at it, see how the rods are wearing, etc. I am starting to lean towards the Bondtech extruder upgrade now as I have had filament grinding on some brands of PLA.

I am not a fan of the bowden setup, but it does produce nice prints regardless. I will be adding the DDE so it will suit my needs in printing petg better. I would not trust it for TPU with the stock setup, DDE it should be fine. It does run a modified Duet clone board, which is nice but does limit you a bit in asking questions on discord (Voron). For the price it is well built, the wires are good, a few oddities here and there but nothing that hurts it. For example Voron upgrades will not bolt on for the extruder, but BLV Cube extruders could work with some slight changes for the belts. If you need to do lots of retractions in your print, look at the DDE upgrade to start.

@@Johns3DPrintingCorner Yes I would like to start immediately with the DDE installed but I would like to know if it is a printer (after the DDE) prints wonderfully or there is better (considering the price of course). The BLV Cube I know but it is complicated to assemble, plus it lacks the leveling probe and sensor end filament that the troodon has.

@@Gasrovescio my BLV Cube does auto level with the BL Touch, but it took me weeks to assemble and then I modified parts to fit in MGN15H Z rails. I bought them for another project that I never got to, so the BLV was a perfect fit. It prints fantastic and nonstop. Mine is original, not the newer kits. The Toordon out of the box prints great. If I took a print from my Railcore, BLV Cube, and this and mixed them up. I would honestly have a hard time telling you what machine they were from. Railcore is more critical in assembly to get all the tolerances right, plus the bling upgrades add up quickly. One complaint on the Toordon is a blob on the print can sometimes stall a Z motor. Being a for Z system if one does get stalled/skipped in this manner it destroys the print. It is rare, keep the nozzle and sock clean and make sure your first layer is dialed in to prevent any buildup on the sock. The sock lasts longer than a real E3D!! 🤣 So that is a bonus. It has a PanelDue touch screen plus wifi, easy to update via the Duet RRF (2.0 branch). I have not tried 3.0+ yet. The wifi antenna is easy to break, so watch out for that or reprint the piece with a better material. Shipping is great, one of the best boxes I have seen from any company (excluding machines that ship on a pallet). I do have a copy of the stock configuration/SD card. You get 1.5 meters of bowden tube!! Ha ha

@@Johns3DPrintingCorner I did not understand what is this blob, is it the fault of the extruder, because if it is that I mount a Dragon or replace with an original E3D V6. Correct? anyway it prints better than prusa mini and MK3S?

@@Gasrovescio Blob is just built up plastic that collects on to the sock and can drop down into the print during long prints. I tend to run 60-hour long prints, and I will check every few hours to make sure everything is staying clean. All the printers in my shop can do this, although I have had some coated nozzles that were worse.

I dont mean to be off topic but does anybody know of a tool to log back into an instagram account? I somehow forgot the account password. I would love any tips you can offer me

@Samuel Connor I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm. Takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

@Samuel Connor It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy:D Thank you so much you saved my account!

@Derrick Alexander glad I could help :)

Yes, depending on the heater you use.

@@Johns3DPrintingCorner высокотемпературные магниты?

@@ЕвгенийВладимиров-л3к see if this lets you - www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=167 otherwise look at the mats from whambamsystems.com/flexible-build-system up to 150C and should be available for shipping to Ukraine.

Yes just cabon petg, nearly a full spool.

@@Johns3DPrintingCorner Nice! What mods did you make in order to print that much?

@@escorpion1991 the full list of mods is in the video description with links to them. On the CF filament I used the stock and replaced it afterwards. If I were to use it more for CF I would go with a nozzle X or Microswiss nozzle.

When Formbot gets ahold of it and changes things! Lol Today I accidentally discovered the BLV Cube extruder setup will fit on it, so while I can't easily put the afterburner on it I still have some options. I am just not great a tuning a 1.5M bowden tube!

Oh and it has this weird Duet clone that includes the extension board on the same board!

@@Johns3DPrintingCorner wow that's interesting! I never knew that. The voron afterburner works pretty slick! I have them on my 2 voron switchwires.

I think we should do a fireball video with a 3D printer! On a serious note I should order a few from you.

And good luck on your surgery!

I do like both to a degree, and the Mini for my use case is the better option. It works great out of the box and you do not need to worry about going upgrade crazy. For PLA just stick to the more reliable brands and you will have little to worry about with the Mini + out of the box. IMO I am not a fan of vwheels and the amount of maintenance that can be associated with them. So I do knock the Ender down a notch for that and for the sometimes less than stellar extruders. I have also had to replace Z stepper mounts because the rods would not align. Minor things yes, but it still cost me a few extra dollars and time waiting. Mini + comes out cheaper if you do not want to mess with upgrading things. Many of the best upgrades are printable, and if you do decided to push it harder in the future the Bondtech extruder is an easy option. When you do step up to a PETG or ASA filament you can place the printer inside a portable photo booth/tent. This will help keep it the printer warmer and stop air draft that lead to warping. You can ask my friend over @traileralarms what happens when you stray too far down the PLA unbranded generics path.