My engine code is CXCB

No Dx errors with the bucking. That’s why it’s been so hard to figure out.

Well, I’m pretty satisfied on the improvements the installs made. So I’m not too bummed about it still bucking. But yes, I’ve replaced both coils and plugs multiple times during my bucking issue, as well as both MAP sensors. Not sure how I would Dx a non-flapping IM though.

@@JacesOwnWorld no no its getting better so thats always good, flaps can get stuck close or open dont know, dont they have lime a valve on the side and a little sensor too im not too familiar with that but couldnt hurt to take a look at it.

I hear ya. Yes, there is a sensor and two vacuum hoses that connects to the IM that makes the flaps open and close. If the sensor is unplugged, the car will run rough and throw a CEL. I know this because it’s happened to me before after I forgot to plug it in after taking my IM off. I’m not having a rough idling engine or CEL from that. One IM hose is located on the underside of the IM, which you can only access with the IM off. From the factory, this hose just attaches onto each nipple and stays on through vacuum. Long ago, my first time removing my IM, I forgot to connect one side of this hose, and when I turned the car on, it idled rough. So I had to take the IM off again, and found it disconnected from its nipple. So I zip tied both ends so it never comes off again, and I always inspect it each time I take the IM off to make sure it’s still on, which it is. The other vacuum hose connects on the side of the IM, facing the air box. This hose, if disconnected, will also create a rough idle, and I also made sure it was on after I replaced my HPFP a few days ago. So those hoses and connector are all good to go. I also inspect the IM flaps every time the IM is off, making sure they open and close and that they’re clean from carbon buildup. In the years my car has been bucking, I’ve completed two carbon valve cleanings, and it didn’t fix the bucking issue. So I know it’s not due to carbon buildup or IM flaps or such. But, I think it might be a good idea for me to do a smoke test to see if there are any leaks. It could be possible I have a hairline crack in my IM causing a leak, which could cause bucking. I don’t think I do, but it’s an easy way to know if I do you know.

@@JacesOwnWorld got it, one less thing to worry about a smoke test would be good, i dont like plastic IM i hate it for this cars they have been good but still dont like them i will put an aluminum one on when i put the port injection on, will see what happens, hopefully you can find whats causing the problem.

@roymartinez25 yeah I’m right there with you. Not a fan of the plastic IM either. I have thought about getting the aluminum ones, but I’ve read that they don’t seal up against the engine block as well and they cause leaks. I think they worked better on the MK6’s. I don’t know. I’m at a point with my car that it’s running great besides the bucking. But with the N80 valve unplugged, it runs perfectly fine now. I just hit 178k miles. When, and if, the engine ever stops running and needs a rebuild, my plan is to build the motor with forged internals. When that happens, I’ll probably get an aluminum IM and oil pan. The aluminum IM’s have the built in port injection available, and I will want to run ethanol at that point and get rid of my WMI I have setup in it. I’ll probably go bigger turbo to put me in the mid-to-upper 400whp range. Then a wavetrack LSD and I think the car will be super fun to play with. It’s fun now, but another 100whp will honestly be perfect for my taste. At this point in mods, I won’t be driving it as a daily. I’ll probably get an EV for that. I’ll just use the GTI as a fun canyon/roll race car.

I don’t know anything about a LPFP warranty. Even if there was though, VW wouldn’t replace mine under warranty because my car is tuned. Warranty is void once you tune your car Stage 2 or above.

The current recall is for the suction jet pump replacement. It’s a $40 part that sits inside the gas tank. The part isn’t even available at dealerships yet, which is why I bought it online and did the job myself. If VW says they need to replace the entire fuel tank to do this job, they are trying to scam you.

@@JacesOwnWorld interesting! I'm definitely not going to proceed with the dealer's suggested fix now. I feel kind of finished with VW tbh after the back and forth (they said the car was fine and there was nothing wrong with it initially, I had to take it back a second time). Do you know where I can order this part so I can take it to them without doing a full tank replacement? I'm even considering just asking them to buy back the car at this point (2018 golf)

@@JacesOwnWorld can u link where u got the part?

@jacobdore3230 I just put the link in the description of this video. Refresh and take a look

@andys6591 that’s probably the best idea man. Unfortunately VW is ass backwards on helping their owners out. I just linked where I bought this part in the description of this video. Hope you get it sorted out. See what they will give you. If your GTI is worth decent money, might as well try to have them buy it back.

Yes. It is in the works right now and will be uploaded soon.

W dealership customer service is absolute trash. Yes, I’ve replaced it myself. I have a video on it that I recently made. Check it out. Yes, it fixed the pump fillup issue I was having.

I believe the suction jet pump recall in the USA is for all MK7 GTI’s (2015-2017). I do not know if it’s for the MK7.5 GTI’s. I also don’t think it’s for the R’s. But that doesn’t mean that MK7.5 GTI’s or R’s won’t be affected as well. It just means that on the MK7 GTI’s, there have been a lot more failures. What is a “leak detection pump”? Is that known as the suction jet pump that I referenced in my video? So weird it’s happening in the MK8 R, but it is very possible it’s the same part. Not sure though.

Haha. The MK7 and up gen’s have resolved almost all issues GTI/R’s had prior. Much better platforms.

No. It was more like a clunking. Popping might be due to your top mounts. There’s a lot of things that could cause these sounds, so just check everything. That’s what I did and I found my end links to be the issue. First find where the sounds are coming from (front, rear, drivers side, passengers side, etc.) and then look for things, bolts/nuts unloosened, etc. Good luck and thanks for watching.

@@JacesOwnWorld thanks i'll check both

Thanks bro

Haha I use them for backup

Thanks dude

Glad I could help. Man, seems more and more people are starting to have this same issue. So, yes, unplugging the purge valve makes the bucking go away, but it doesn’t fix it. It’s just a bandaid in a sense. I tried replacing the purge valve but that didn’t work either. Tomorrow I’m replaced my LPFP and suction jet pump. I have a feeling those are related to the bucking issue. I will post a follow up video afterwards and let the community know. So make sure you check back on my channel this week for that. In the meantime you can also watch my most recent videos regarding the suction jet pump to familiarize yourself with it. Thanks for watching and commenting.

I’ve had a fuel smell in the cabin for a good 2 years now. But it has got worse in the last month. I haven’t noticed any gas spillage yet, but I appreciate the heads up on that. That could get dangerous very fast. I’ve inspected my original evaporator canister about 8 months ago. Nothing was wrong with it, but I did replace it with a used lower mileage one. I appreciate you looking out! I should be installing it this next week and will report back with another video.

Really? Awesome! That’s great news! Glad to hear it fixed your issues! Glad you have no more gas spills and that your mpg’s went up! Thanks for sticking around and giving an update! New plugs, could, and N80 sounds like a great plan. I plan on doing those by the end of the year. I really would like to get the coil grounding kit from EQT too, as well as EQT’s LPFP sensor kit. I’ve just been burnt by EQT in the past and their company put a bitter taste in my mouth. The way they treated me was very unprofessional, especially when I did some digging and I wasn’t the only one a particular issue with them affected. So I haven’t bought one of their products since, which sucks, because those are the two things I would like to get from them. But I think they’re great products, so you should buy them. I just have a bone to pick with them and their business ethics. Super glad you were able to install it pretty easily. Any advice on the install of the suction pump? Like should I disconnect the plug first and then remove the suction pump from its bracket, or remove from bracket first and then disconnect plug?

@@JacesOwnWorld yeah i hear you on eqt but they been stepping up a little more, the grounding kit i got it from a guy that i follow on IG and he sells them on ebay really good quality and the price is super good to the kit for me was lime 60 dollars only, well for the replacement of the jet pump i recommend cleaning everything very well cuz it gets nasty man i scraped everything and put the vacuum, took the lpfp off unplugged it from the line that is the same line that connects to the jet pump, put that aside and put your hand in get the jet pump off the bracket so you can have more room to play with it so is easier to disconnect from the other cennection, or you can try and see if you reach the connector with the pump still on the bracket, i took it out off the bracket just in case i didnt want to break anything and them the pump would be all over the place, hope you get to it and everythi g comes out good brother take care.

@roymartinez25 Yeah they have. For me, it’s not their products. It’s their ethics. Shoot! $60?? That’s half the cost of EQT. I always thought EQT was overpricing the hell out of it only because they were the only ones with it. I just found the one on eBay too. Now I know about it, I might buy one later this year. Excellent peace of mind upgrade. For sure. I will def be cleaning all the guck and grime around the LPFP. Is the line that connects to the top of the LPFP the same line that connects to the suction pump? I’ve been looking at YT vids, but most of them are for a Golf R or Audi S3, and they’re a little different than the GTI’s. Sounds good. I’ll remove the suction pump from the bracket first then. To remove it from the bracket, do you lift up on the suction pump?

@@JacesOwnWorld yeah i normally buy everything with ecs and havent had any problems and getting the life time warranty, and yes once you start pulling the lpfp out the tank the line on the bottom y connected to the jet pump disconnect it from the lpfp and it will stay on the jet pump take the jet pump out of the bracket or try to disconnect it from the other connection without taking it out of the bracket, i found it easier to take it out of the bracket to play with it better and disconnect it.to put the new one is super super easy, the line will stay in an upward position is just placing the pump on it until it clicks put it back on the bracket, and put the lpfp in while connecting the line to the bottom thats about it

@roymartinez25 yeah, I’ve bought a ton of things through ECS over the years with my M3 and the GTI. I also buy from FCP, as they’re local to me and deliver fast. But they have a great warranty too. ECS now has their lifetime warranty too now to compete with FCP. It’s good to have two websites to choose from that provide lifetime warranty. Matter of fact, I bought my HPFP from FCP over buying it from USP Motorsports (it was $80 cheaper in this website). I bought it from FCP for a little more money because of their lifetime warranty. This way if it fails, I never have to pay for one again, besides the shipping to send it back. Thanks bro! Good info! Makes me a lot more confident in performing the job now. I’ll be installing them tomorrow. Now I’m wondering if I should make a video of the install or not??? If I do, it will be a long video, and I’ve noticed people don’t really watch my long videos much. So is it worth the time???

Because it drives perfectly fine, it’s a $30 part that will fix it, it’s paid off, it’s fun, etc. lol. My car is maybe worth $8-10k to a private buyer. There’s no way I would sell this car for that much. It’s worth more than that to me and there isn’t a car out there for $8-10k that is more fun.

@@JacesOwnWorld tbh I'm trading in my 9th gen Si for an mk7.5 GTI next week and was getting discouraged from seeing ppl mention this issue but the fact that you still love the car and say its totally driveable reassures me lol

The SI is a good car. The GTI is better. Especially if you are going to modify it, the GTI really wakes up power wise with a tune, downpipe, and intercooler upgrade. Handling wise, an upgraded rear sway bar and lowering springs will be just fine. Coilovers on this car is eghhh (I’ve had two sets so I know). I personally now have Koni Yellow dampers/struts mated with lowering springs. Perfect daily setup. Really, the MK7/7.5 GTI is very reliable, but things do break down. The major things on this car are the water pump and keeping up with maintenance, like doing valve cleanings, oil, plugs, etc. I would stay away from the 6spd manual, as the clutch design is failure prone. Get the DSG. And as far as this suction pump is concerned, it’s a $30 part and easy install. It’s just waiting on VW to do the recall which is the issue. But if you do it yourself, it’s easy and cheap, and will fix the problem. I’m the original owner of my GTI. It has 178k miles on it now. Perfect compression and drives great. It’s just getting high mileage now, so things like fueling will need to be addressed just like it would on any car at my mileage. My GTI has been tuned since 2k miles

@@JacesOwnWorld The Si has been great, 0 issues apart from maintnance in the 100k miles ive driven it. Mine is FBO and still only makes about 220whp/180wtq though that's what's lacking. Parts for the k24z7 are super expensive and the return is minimal. I want something with torque lol

@brogu6071 yeah, Honda makes great reliable cars. But other than the CTR, everything else lacks extensively in performance compared to its rivals. Doesn’t the SI have a 1.5L-T engine? That’s super small. The GTI isn’t quick by any means in stock form, but boy does it wake up with mods. The torque is one of the best things about it. Torque for days! And you really feel yourself getting pushed back in your seat when boost comes on. I think you’ll like the upgrade.

Wow. What a joke. There is zero reason a shop should take your car for a month and a half for this part. Literally a 1hr job, if that. That’s ridiculous. What did the $2k cost include? Was it only this $30 suction pump? Or did it include other items? I would call VW of America and let them know what happened. See what they say.

@@JacesOwnWorld yeah I called several times to voice my opinion haha. They kept blaming it on a third party company that they needed parts from everytime, and I told them I was gonna take the car back, do it myself, and anything that I messed up, they were covering entirely. I had to Uber everywhere and I work an hour from where I live so it was costing me out the ass everyday they had my car

@@JacesOwnWorld as far as I remember, they ended up replacing the fuel tank, suction pump, and any fuel lines related to the rear section. I believe they also did the rear passenger wheel liner cause I had fuel draining out of the wheel well like a waterfall. Literally watched my gauge drop to a half tank in 5 minutes

@OHNOES131 wow, that’s a lot of things they replaced when it most likely was just the $30 suction pump. Did you take it to a dealership or INDY shop? Yeah, that would suck seeing your gas drop that quickly. My mpg’s have started dropping quite a bit this last week, so now I’m just waiting on parts to arrive and going to install them asap.

@@JacesOwnWorld I went through dealership, which looking back I should NOT have done. I would’ve done it myself but being a novice mechanic I was a little hesitant to tackle the fuel system alone.

I don’t remember. This was a while ago

Check out the suction jet pump

Good to know. Thanks for the heads up. I will contact VW of America. Did you call them or email them?

@@JacesOwnWorld I called them. Once I reached out to vw of America my dealership was on it. They can still replace the suction pump. They are aware that the spill back can cause a fire.. I got my car back within a week.

@@JacesOwnWorld they answer all the time so you don’t have to worry about being on hold or not getting an answer

100%

Thanks and will do!

Video is about the call I made to VW regarding this recall. Good eye and call on that. I’m fixing the title now.

Crazy! I’m not seeing any gas on the floor with mine, but the other symptoms I am getting. Have you had your suction jet pump replaced yet? If not, you should just do the job yourself. Shouldn’t take any longer than an hour start to finish. Just make sure your gas tank is low in gas.

@@JacesOwnWorld getting the pump tomorrow might do it thursday, or over the weekend and yeah doing it myself, and no still the factory pump

@@roymartinez25 report back when you replace the pump!

Nice! Good luck with the install. I have another short vid I will be posting tomorrow regarding me calling VW today.

@@JacesOwnWorld cant wait to see it an hear what they say, and thanks brother hopefully everything goes back to normal after this.

Wow. You need to try a different dealer. Sounds like the one you took it to is incompetent.

One of two things: 1: Clutch TOB/slave failed (most likely what happened) 2. Bleeder block line disconnected I’ve had both happen to me. The bleeder block line disconnect is the cheapest fix ($100 or less) and easy to fix. The TOB/slave is the expensive and hardest fix, as you will need a new clutch to go with it.

Thank you Jace! I'll check it out

Absolutely!

Check back with my channel this week as I am replacing my LPFP, suction jet pump, and HPFP. I think they might be related to the bucking issue.

Visible coolant leaks. Going through coolant and needing to refill

50mph is highway speeds? 🤣🤡

Wait what? $1500??? It’s a $70 part and maybe takes 2hrs max of labor time after them being the car in and out of the shop (honestly it’s about an hour of work). You should never have to them for the Dx because they’re expensive and your symptom is easily known as the suction pump. Are you just going to wait until they get the recalled part and then they fix it for free?

Same thing happened to my 2017 gti sport. Had it towed to the dealership closer to my house after all the gas leaked out the rear passenger wheel well. They said I needed a new fuel pump. $1500. Got it back a day or two later and didn’t even make it to the gas station before it died on the side of the road because they left it on empty. Had it towed back AGAIN and now they’re saying the purge valve is stuck open because it was trying to pull gas when there was no gas in it. They wanted me to pay another $150 for that, but said they would “take care of labor” or it would’ve been close to $700. They ended up replacing that for free because I still insisted it should be under the recall and had just paid them $1500. Got the car back and they had finally put gas in it, so after a day of driving around and not having problems, I went to fill up the tank and couldn’t put more than 50¢ worth of gas before it was spilling out. Finally have it at the dealership I bought it at and they’re replacing the entire gas tank under warranty/recall. Now I have to figure out how to get my money back from the other VW dealership that kept trying to avoid the recall. Been without my car for 3 weeks now, but the dealership that is fixing it under warranty/recall gave me a loaner finally when the first dealership refused. 🤬

@brettmulholland5676 wow. That is crazy! What a crappy dealership telling you it was your LPFP. They all should know by now that your symptom you were having was directly related to the $30 suction jet pump! Sounds like they were just trying to scam you for money. VW is so shady in that regard! Glad you were able to take it to a different dealer and get everything sorted as well as get a loaner. Any update on the car as of now?

Haha

I will definitely be posting another video for a follow up once this part is installed.

This part is definitely the reason why. What you’re experiencing is the main culprit.

Nice! Yeah man, let’s hope this is the cause. We would be doing the community and VW a major favor by letting them know this part is the cause of the bucking, if it is!!

@@JacesOwnWorld absolutely, thanks for leading the charge on this one!

Oh yeah. I’m never getting rid of it. It’s not worth much anymore. Makes no sense to sell it for a small amount of $$.

No. A new purge valve did not fix the issue. I just leave it unplugged and the bucking goes away. Car drives fine with it unplugged

That probably depends on if you are running a factory spot aftermarket intercooler, or a FMIC. I have a FMIC with all aftermarket charge pipes, and it was easy to remove. Just remove the front number, intake, and pre-intercooler charge pipes, and voila. It’s all right there.

@@JacesOwnWorld forsure! That makes sense. Again thanks for the video, helped me with my install/removal of the block off plate and pump and lines!

Ouch. What happened?

@@JacesOwnWorld it all started with removing the pedal spring as suggested by videos on KZbin to make your GTI suck less. Made me loose stability and parts causing the pedal not to be reliable anymore

Decided to buy the whole pedal used on eBay. Spring and all because my assembly broke one of the ears where it latches into while trying to remove it. Learned my lesson

Dang man, that sucks. It’s working good now though?

@@JacesOwnWorld it's been two weeks and everything Is back to normal