Yeah unfortunately. Lots of guys have installed these over the years and experienced the issues with the bolts and the gasket that comes either it. Better to share and help others avoid it.

Thanks man. We’ve had some nightmare jobs on our truck so we try and show all the good and bad. This one was an easy one

Was the truck sitting level or jacked up?

I found out shortly after a SoCal guy bought it and it has some major issues with the diffs. He got it sorted and barely drove it and put it up for sale 2 years later. I think it’s still for sale now but it’s not in the greatest shape.

Got them from a friend. Not sure on the brand. I normally recommend LasFit for LED bulbs though.

This kit is designed for the f150 spindles. Check with the dirt king guys to make sure. They are usually responsive

Thanks man. And yeah man. Grove is killing it with these products and I’m so excited to see what he does next. Love everything he’s doing

🤣 Only if you’re paying for it!!

Yeah. Thanks to companies like Grove Fabworks.

Thanks man. And congrats. You’re going to love it!! What’s your first planned mod for it?

Take the supercharger off or spend the 3k to keep the belt on. First mod haha

The light behind me is not bad at night. Also why I just did LED bulbs up front. But I usually carry camera gear or camping gear back there and had to use a flashlight at night because the stock light was so dim. Now I’ll have plenty of light and will be able to rig my camera back there on night shoots

They were just generic LED bulbs. Got them from a friend. Check out companies like LASFit for the best options for replacement LED interior bulbs

Very cool, did not know that. Looks like a good low cost option. I personally wanted something that is ready for the abuse I put my truck through. I know the KC light brand so I like the grove solution. And I needed more than just the dome light. I needed lights from the side and this kit allowed me to do all 3

@ Hell yeah, love the redundancy and luxury of having something real from the likes of BD or KC, just wanted to point out another alternative for our gen 1 buddies who are on a budget 🙌🙌

Thanks man. And definitely a good low cost option that is way better than the LED bulbs. Thanks for sharing.

I try not to even open the sunroof. But yeah. I need to.

Not sure who your referring this comment to since this is a small YT channel and I’m the only one that reads the comments. But you should see a follow video we did on this truck. I went in a very extreme direction with audio. One that most will never understand. And under seat subs was not it. They sound awful and take up prime real estate in the back.

Si

Once the shaft is partially out, it can completely slide out if you have nothing obstructing it. I had to disconnect the bottom of my shock to get mine out. With the shock in, the CV kept hitting the coil spring and would not come out. Once I disconnected the bottom of the shock I was axle to get enough movement from the shock to get it out. If your in stock shocks, the top of the shock don’t move as freely and you may need to take the whole shock out

@KeepItDirtyOffRoad thanks for the reply. The axle is out and I have redone the boots but it seems as it wont go all the way back in. I have pictures but can't post here. I just posted it on the raptor forum as well. The passenger side that I am doing isn't in as far as the untouched passenger side.

We had to use a block of wood and a mallet to get ours in correctly. And it’s tough because there is no space to get a proper swing in. So it took quite a bit more hits.

@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad man i have beat the shiz out of it. Can you confirm that there is no gap with the deep boot?

Sorry man. Just seeing you reply. I’m hoping you got it figured out, but there should be no gap. If it’s not going in, it could be the locking pin is damaged

Oh wow. That’s wild. My leak came back so I’ll probably have to do the same soon.

@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad don't be afraid to blast the alternator. just follow up with electrical contact cleaner or maf sensor spray.

🤣 yep. Unfortunately that’s how most manufacturers stock classes go with offroad racing. Wish the big 3 all had better commitments to offroad racing. They all should be racing each other at these big races every year

Glad we could help

IMO that’s the old thinking from the good old days. Oil quality is much higher these days and at 3000 miles, the oil has not even broken down for regular use. Race applications is different. In a race vehicle oils get changed out every single race. Even the shocks get rebuilt every single race. So there it makes sense. But in regular driving and occasional off-roading, every 3k miles is wasteful.

@ I’ll take the xtra 150 insurance the Exxon Valdez poured more oil than we would in a lifetime times couple million and I mine as well use that 40 dollar fumoto for a reason change that oil the maker of the gtr engine says 2k max to make it last long and he’s not a novice turbos 6k remember that

That’s a different engine type all together. High tolerance engines need more frequent oil changes. It’s basically a race engine and most don’t even idle right until they are up to temp. The engine in your truck is not that. Earlier I would do is every 6000 miles with heavy off-roading. You’re not getting any insurance or extra protection by doing it at 3000 miles. You’re just wasting money and oil.

🤣🤣 but that would look so awful.

Lime green on one louver. Possibly just one side. Raptor R styling

Now that would be cool. May have to try that with some wrap or something

@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad thanks! Subtle enough to stay appealing

🤣🤣 we did eventually correct and use the right hammer.

No. Always go with the shocks the kit was made for. This kits setup and geometry is not setup for a longer shock.

Yeah, totally agree. Gets all the particles and metal shavings out and extends the life of the pump and the rack

🤣🤣 yeah. Me neither.

No. I just swapped mine and I had to pop off the cowel and loosen the center bolts for the wipers and was able to swap it out.

Maybe if you have an inline cooler. But the PS pump is so low in the engine that it gets some kind of air flow regardless.

They really don’t make sense on a leaf sprung stock ish truck. It’s only when you get into the prerunner linked suspension builds that it would make any sense to

We will see here soon. What I’ve found is that if your air dam is not setup correctly, cutting holes in the hood can allow air to flow over the and around the radiator rather than through it. So there are many factors. We will see as I push mine to its limits all the time

Yes you can and some have done it too. You just need to leave the structure in the middle for the bolt

Thank you 🙏

Thanks

Rains going to get in as soon as you drive in the rain so the cover is pointless.

@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad couple of nutserts with a plastic abs cover and 2 thumb screws would work . I have to repaint my hood on my 2010 soon may be a good time to install . Great video man . Unfortunately i park mine more than drive right now .

Your stock vents also let in water. Poor some on your stock ones and see

Like I said, water will still get in. Stock vents let water in too and as soon as you drive anywhere you will get water. Everything under the hood is water proof in some way or another so water won’t damage anything in there

Back in the day I had a 350z with a carbon fiber hood with two big vent holes in it and I never had a problem with water going inside the engine bay. Water would get inside from me washing the car and from the ran and it didn’t do anything but leave water spots.

🤣 thanks

Yes sir. The whole dash has to come out and it’s a massive job.

🤣🤣 they are nice flaps though.

🤣 thanks. it’s a really fun car.

@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad had one miss it everyday. You got good taste on vehicles

Thanks man. I found the car by chance and absolutely love it. It’s got 235k miles on it and still running strong. Always struggle with keeping it or selling it since I barely drive it. I work from home so I drive for fun. But I know the day I do sell it, I will regret it.

@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad crazy my e39 m5 had 230k and it ran perfectly before I got rid of it . Those s62 are amazing engines just need to keep up with the maintenance. I would say keep it because they got so expensive now

Yeah. Values went nuts after Covid and still strong to this day. Another reason I want to keep it

Adapter comes with the lights. You will need to order the version for the raptor or platinum as those have the LED lights to get it. If you ordered just the f150 lights for the halogen headlights, it won’t be included.

Would have to agree. I’ve seen them beat up on the trails and keep going. Almost bought a new one too a few months back. Only thing that stopped me is with 35s that 4 cyl is so bogged down. It was so slow and not fun. They give it a better power plan or maybe the inline 6 diesel and I’ll be first in line to get one.

@@KeepItDirtyOffRoad The 2024 Bison (all Bison's) have the 35s. The base '24 ZR2 has 33s. I have the base + all the bells and whistles, 360 cams, front/rear lockers bal to the bla... minus the Boson package. Byson pack is best guess 5/6 hounded lbs. ish on top of the 35s for with the 4 cyl. and agree 100%, that's too much weight. They need to build it with an LS v8. 😁 that would make me happy. I would buy it. Love this truck! Unless you are saying you want 35s.... Yes I agree but the torque is adequate for getting through "most" extreme.

I would rather have the 35s. Specially in a truck that size. There would be almost nothing that would stop you. And the trucks has everything no else you need and it looks good. Only drawback is power. I don’t have to have a V8. Inline 6 diesel or TTv6 with at least 400hp would be just right

Really good advice that I wish more would follow. Unfortunately, there are many out there that treat Baja as their personal playground. And are definitely not respectful.

Yeah. A bunch came out after all the top hat failures seen on the trails