Building the ERCF v2, Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder by Siboor. Part 5 - Wiring & software

[@MiZRTUBE]

You should be sponsored, Best ERCF v2 building series

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Thank you for the kind comments!

[@a_distracted_distraction]

I hope you are releasing the tool head video soon! Great series so far, it's been very helpful to watch while building the Siboor kit.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

I ran out of steam and also lost some video. I still expect to release one, but it's taking some time to produce. My apologies for that.

[@hunterthacker7039]

Hey, Great video, but I do want to point out that at 11:22 you said that "the jumpers on the pins closest to the socket is for CANbus", but that's incorrect, its the two furthest away that say Vin not HVin, had some issues getting that to work.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

I will need to check on that. My apologies if I made a mistake. Thank you for the feedback and watching!

[@richardclinton8408]

I've been following you and I'm so excited to see you working on this. I attempted ERCF about half a year ago and gave up at the end with the actual printing part. I really prefer following along with someone else so really looking forward to you getting to that part when you get time and get to it. I seen you ran into some issues so you've had delays, no rush, live your life :) Content creating is hard and massively time consuming.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Soon. Very soon!

[@kajakmannen]

Super nice buildseries. Recieved my Siboor ERCF V2 kit today :)

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

I wish you a fantastic build. Thanks!

[@NorthWoodsCustomCreations]

Awesome job on the series! Thank you for making it!

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Thank you for the nice comments and watching!

[@Dark_Knightro]

Waiting on the next video. This is great.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Working on it now....thank you!

[@jeffrex6305]

Amazing! Can't wait to get started. Thank you!

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Thank you. I wish you a great build!

[@sanketss84]

Thank you for putting this together ❤

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Thank you for the nice comment and watching!

[@sanketss84]

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop I have been meaning to understand how ercf and similar mmu systems work. I recently completed my first voron and a trident and looking to expand more on its functionality so trying to understand mmu and toolchangers

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

@@sanketss84 Well, I'm actually doing the same thing as you!

[@sanketss84]

​@@KapmansBasementWorkshop what I wanted to do was automate filament change with just two spools. for that I needed a way to synchronize another motor with extruder motor which will pull/push the filament from the bowden on filament change macro. this motor will disengage during normal print with the help of a stepper mechanism. hence I was trying to understand the mechanism of 3d chameleon , ercf v2 and trad rack and spin my own simplistic version which would work just for two spools.

[@sanketss84]

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop this system will be cheaper than an idex or dueling dragons or tool changers as they have other headaches of managing the kinematics and taking apart the belts and also programming the usage of multiple toolheads. and add to that nozzle alignment.

[@caboosukin]

This series really came at the best time possible. I just bought my ERCF V2 from Siboor and this series has been a big help in double checking my work. The Documentation is missing a lot of information like the servo arm and the how to mount the LED. I have no idea what the Extra LEDs were for? I can't seem to mount it to the back of the ERCT.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

I didn’t spend a lot of time in the video for the servo arm, but does it cover enough? The documentation for ERCF states that it should be mounted during calibration. But there really are no instructions, diagrams or photos to show it. The string of wired leds mount shining into the buffer. This didn’t seem super useful to me and I don’t expect to be ever looking at the back side either. I also used black filament, so it won’t let light through anyway. I decided to leave them off. If you ever find out where the single led mounts, please let me know!

[@VectorRoll]

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop That last single LED is for the Option for the Status Encoder LED. There is a version in the ( _Errat folder ) for (Encoder_with_Status_LED ) that allows you to insert it in the Selector under the Encoder. It is so you can use the brighter LED instead of the one on the Endoder. The LED on the Encode basically gets blocked off from the alternate part. You need to pick the one for the Bearing you use. In the Siboor kits it is the v6233_Bearing. The STL files say EXIT_LED on them. I only noticed it after the fact when I had all my parts printed out and built. It basically puts that LED right behind the Mouth and Eyes on the Selector. I am not sure if I will reprint mine or not. I spent a while painting mine in multple colors so that it stands out better.

[@EatFireUFRA]

So glad you made this video series, awesome job! I have a question though, where did you find the stl for the led holder and the diffusor bracket? I can't seem to find them in the ERCF folder, just one that is half the length and has no mounting holes for the led strip

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

It's right here: github.com/Lzhikai/ERCF-V2-Accessories

[@MatheoLeroy-yt2qv]

Nice video , will you make a setup one for the Happy Hare calibration ?

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

I think so. But I will 1st create a video for the tool head modifications. Then I can completely configure Happy Hare. That said, the Happy hare instructions are pretty good in this area.

[@alidaf-YT]

You could probably use the GND and 5V from the reserved STP sockets (STP1 & STP2) for the extra LEDs and, as you said, solder the signal wire in series at the end of the LED strip. Unfortunately, the RGB socket pin (PA2) looks like the only one capable of PWM (apart from the motor PWM pin, PA0), which LEDs need. Siboor missed a trick here to make this a bit easier by putting another connector block at the end of the strip. I'll probably not bother with the coupler block LEDs but the selector one may help troubleshooting in operation.

[@alidaf-YT]

Actually, the selector LED cable passes through the cable chain since it needs to accommodate the entire length of the ERCF so the connections have to be made at the MMB end, which means the selector LED needs to be the first in the chain but in series with the LED strip otherwise it will be the same colour as LED0. This isn't straightforward at all unless Klipper can do a software PWM on pins PA3 & PA4 to keep the LED chains independent. Klipper can do software PWM on the MCU so it depends on whether the MMB is capable. It should be.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

I ended up just using the led pcb. Looking at where I was going to indtall this and because I used black fillament, I decided to not use the other LEDs. Thank you for this tip!

[@alexlikesallthegamez]

I got to 4:50, and got a error. I think it's something about an updated version or something. For anybody else who had the error, please help. I have no idea what I'm doing.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Please copy the message you get and post it here.

[@alexlikesallthegamez]

I don't have the uuid from katapult though. I don't know if that's important.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

@@alexlikesallthegamez Please paste the error message you are getting here in the comments.

[@alexlikesallthegamez]

ERROR:root:Can Read Error Traceback (most recent call last): File "flash_can.py", line 137, in send_command ret = await self.node.readuntil() File "flash_can.py", line 287, in readuntil return await asyncio.wait_for(self._reader.readuntil(sep), timeout) File "/usr/lib/python3.7/asyncio/tasks.py", line 423, in wait_for raise futures.TimeoutError() concurrent.futures._base.TimeoutError

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

@@alexlikesallthegamez Are you using a U2C?

[@lcdconsultant5252]

Great video as usual. It's been a month since you posted on the ERCF. I hope it's not because your having issue with it working. I went ahead and bought an Anycubic Kobra 3 Combo which has support for 4 colors until the ERCF gets working without lots of fiddling. I was amazed at how much poop multicolor generates. The Anycubic generates way less poop than the ERCF and it's still too much. Plus it does not need those huge retract reel. Plus it has a built in dehumidifier. I am thinking the ERCF might be flawed by design/

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

The probalem I have been facing is the the ERCF, it's me! By mistake, I foolishly fried two canbus controllers on the tool head. One after another. Once I got it working again, I had to focus on some other print jobs I needed to complete. I also have a mounting/space problem. I hope to resolve that today and then I can get moving again on this project.

[@lcdconsultant5252]

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Yea that ERCF requires a lot of open space. Yours is 8 colors and that is a lot. Any interference could easily kill a print job. I am patiently awaiting your follow on video.

[@gs1-j3t]

Great Video, thanks. I just can't figure out what parts you printed for the LED strip on the ERCF. I printed all the options and nothing fits :(, can you share the names of the STL's you used, please?

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

This is where I got the STL files. github.com/Lzhikai/ERCF-V2-Accessories. I used the file called "ERCF_LED_Panel". I wish you a great build!

[@richardclinton8408]

Hi Kap! What 3d printed arm did you use for the servo motor? The siboor kit comes with a GDW servo. I'm not finding a lever for that particular one in the stl files.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

I used the Savox parts as they seemed to fit.

[@richardclinton8408]

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Someone in the ERCF discord did link me to the servo body stl file and then just mentioned that the Mg90 lever fits. Not saying to contradict you or anything, just as some more information that I just found out.

[@printerpr0n]

Great Series

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Thank you!

[@sanketss84]

Does happy hare have some discord or community for discussions , this is quite neat and very well put together.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

I could not find one. The only thing I can see is his Github. I agree with you. The software is an amazing package. A lot of work went into it. I will send some funds his way via the link on Github.

[@orthotron]

How does Tradrack compare to this?

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

I believe it has less parts. Example, instead of an extruder gear set for each filament block, TradrRack has a single one that moves.

[@mikarudnick1843]

Where did you get the stl for the led pcb? I cant seem to find it...

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

It's right here: github.com/Lzhikai/ERCF-V2-Accessories Thanks for watching!

[@mikarudnick1843]

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Great! thanks

[@ArticTiger]

Please note when you release the final part that not all SIBOOR kits are created equally. Myself and several others had a rigid PCB pre-gate board which has been known to cause problems (false gate reporting) and while some kits have WRGB LED's others use RGB only. I would make sure people understand what version of the kit your configs are for, if you still plan to release! I have the WRGB rigid pre-gate board version and I am having a ton of issues.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

I do plan on releasing another video to conclude this. However, I fried my SB2209 by mistake. Waiting for it's replacement. About the PCB, I ripped out a microswitch by mistake. It just pressed back in since it wasn't soldered. But that microswitch and each surrounding it became unreliable. I pulled off the circuit board and soldered wires instead. Rock solid. I recommend following the manual on cutting the wire lengths and soldering. In the long run, it saved alot of time! In the last video, I plan on covering this as well.

[@rans0m00]

Is this using a canbus board like a btt u2c or is it using the canbus on something like an btt octopus?

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

I'm using a U2C. My MCU is a Spider 1.0. I also use a SB2209 over canbus in the tool head (installed previously).

[@3DArtDesign11]

can i operate a printer with this board without can bus?

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Yes, you can. If using Klipper, you would install Klipper and the connect a USB cable to your pi running Klipper as well

[@3DArtDesign11]

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop OK thank you and nice work!

[@dannyweber42]

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop are there any instructions on how this works?

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

@@dannyweber42 The Github for ERCF as well as the github for happyhare should have it coverred.

[@Soportewebco]

Hola veo que todo el proceso esta muy orientado a las impresoras voron, pero quiero saber si es posible instalar ERCF a un impresora neptune 4, sin corte de filamento pues veo que no seria compatible con el cabezal de impresión.... gracias

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Deberías poder hacerlo. Sin el cortador, tendrás que realizar más ajustes. Probablemente también puedas reemplazar tu cabezal de herramienta actual con el cabezal de herramienta Voron Stealthburner y luego usar el cortador.

[@chrispitzer]

Question for you that will help me orient to this video. I've noticed that people use two strategies getting the CanBus signal sent. Strategy 1) "Raspberry pi" connects via USB to "Printer MCU board" (ie, Octopus 1.1), then use the canbus out plugs on that MCU board to send CanBus to your ERCF. Strategy 2) "Raspberry pi" connects via usb to "Printer MCU board" to control printer generally. But the pi also connects with a second USB cable to a "USB to CanBus Bridge board" (ie, BigTreeTech U2C adapter board). Then you connect you CanBus cable from that bridge board to your ERCF. I know both of these strategies work - which is this video using? (my hunch is it's strategy 1, but I'm unclear) Thank you!

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

I'm actually using Strategy 2. My U2C is pre-exisitng since my 2.4 alrady has canbus installed for the printer tool head that is using an SB2209. There is a 3rd way too.... Strategy 3) Just use USB and a power cable and don't use canbus at all. I have never tried that before, so I can't give good guidance here. I believe the Esoterical website covers that if you want to try that. Thanks for watching!

[@MuhammadDanialBinMatNasir]

I am sorry if this sounds like a stupid question, but why are you using only 2 of the EZ2209 drivers and not 4 like the board can handle? just got into this rabbit hole and trying to figure out how to use the ERCF for generic printers. Can u help me with this. just need to know if it is enough to just use 2 instead of 4.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Since I was only using it for the ERCF which has 2 motors, I only installed 2 driver chips. You just need one per motor. Thanks for the question!

[@MuhammadDanialBinMatNasir]

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop nice i jsut finished building the machine and currently setting up the board, can the Vin support 24v? or do i need to use the Hvin pin? thanks for the response :D

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

@@MuhammadDanialBinMatNasir I'm using the 24v on the canbus cable which is the VIN. So if you are not using canbus, I would use HVIN for 24v. The manual isn't very clear about this. I have also never tried to run it this way.

[@scorpioo4320]

I have it all build and now I'm trying to get it to work on my raspberry pi (with klipper controling ender 3 clone) I see it with boot option in SSH , but what next ?? Can't follow your steps for they are for CAN bus , wich I don't have , howto proveed to get it to work on usb>>raspberry pi..I'm in the woods here as all of the vids on youtube are about CAN BUS..please advice or point to directions 🙏🏻

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

So in your case, if not using canbus, just use USB and treat it like an additional MCU. Just like your pi is currently connected to your MCU where you installed klipper on that MCU. Now you need to do the save to the BTT MCU. They will both plug into the pi via a USB cable. If you look at the early Voron 2.4 videos before there were MCU's that could handle all the stepper motors, it was common to use 2 MCUs. So now you need to do the same here. Watch a ver early Voron 2.4 electronics build video. You can probably still find those instructions on the Voron build instructions too. I use canbus, so until I decide to eliminate that or build a new 3d printer, its going to be very hard for me to create a video that shows this.

[@AJayTheStageArtist]

Best tutorial

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Thank you very much!

[@AcidNightx]

Hi, I am setting up a new Voron 2.4 r2 type printer, I am using a BTT M8P with a CB2, when everything is ok I would like to get started on the ERCF too but I already have the extruder in CanBus to connect to my M8P and I can't yet find a video that shows what to do in this case... I must directly put it in parallel with it, remove a 120ohm resistor, move it?

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

If you are using a U2C or the existing mcu with canbus capabilities, you need to one terminator on that device. In addition, you need a terminator on the oppposite end of the canbus. Most people will attach the terminator on the very last canbus device.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Also, if you are using the U2C, it's actually a small canbus all on it's own. Meaning each socket sits next to the other on the bus. So you can have a terminator on the last device connected to the green wire terminals and then run cables from each of the sockets to individual canbus controllers, all without terminators. It's pretty cool.

[@JacobBlocker]

I’ve ran into some issues after noticing you are communicating with can. my printer does not have a can interface. I flashed katapult using usb instead can. I can see it listed as a katapult device when i search for it, but obviously nothing comes up on can0. Am i still able to set everything up and is e this board with usb only or will i need to get a can add on to use with my printer to be able to use the ERCF?

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

You can just install Klipper on the controller and not use canbus. The controller will appear as a second mcu that you will declare in the printer. Cfg file.

[@JacobBlocker]

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Thanks for the fast reply, I got it talking with klipper hat a few minutes ago. The selector is working, but for whatever reason my drive stepper is not working. Have checked the stepper it’s self if good. I’d like to check that is set as the right pins. in hawrdware it’s just mmu:MMU_GEAR_STEP. Where do i find what those actual pins relate to? I might try changing it to the 3rd drive to see if that solves it

[@JacobBlocker]

UPDATE- found the code in mmu and changed it to drive 3 and now it works fine

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

@@JacobBlocker Cool. I’m glad you got it working.

[@romcolahvac]

Hello, i have QIDI Q1 PRO, if i make this project will i be able to run it with my printer? the printer is klipper. Thank you for your answer.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

I think it's possible. But you will need to work with filament end forming or replace the tool head with stealthburner if you will to use the sensors and filament cutter instead.

[@kentouchthis1639]

HI Kapman, thangs for this what you do. i got the same package from sibor beacause i want to do this with you. everthing (at the moment) works fine but ca you pls tell me, wich servo settings you use? the GDW ds041mg runs not in the direktion it has to and i dont know why..

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Are these what you are looking for? [mmu_servo mmu_servo] pin: mmu:MMU_SERVO maximum_servo_angle: 180 minimum_pulse_width: 0.00085 maximum_pulse_width: 0.00215 These are in the mmu_hardware.cfg file

[@michaelmueller5175]

Guten Morgen, haben sie das mmb 1.0 Bord oder das mmb 1.1 Bord verbaut??

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Guten Morgen! I believe I have the 1.1. But I need to remove it to see the back side to be completely sure....

[@Heyde84]

Did you get this 8 neopixel PCB to work correctly? I have also built the siboor kit. After the installation it was reversed with the basic configuration in my case. A simple change from 1-8 to 8-1 made the whole thing even more confused. Now I've been playing around with the mmu_hardware.cfg for days but nothing useful comes out of it and I'm beginning to think it's a hardware defect. Basically there shouldn't be much to it, I only use the 8 neopixel PCB like you in the video. mmu_num_leds -> 8 mmu_num_gates -> 8 exit_range: 1-8 / 8-1 No status_index I also played around with the color_order, also without success

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

I did get it working. It took a few tries: [mmu_leds] num_gates: 8 led_strip: neopixel:mmu_leds exit_range: 8-1 #entry_range: 9-{mmu_num_leds} status_index: 9 frame_rate: 24 also: [neopixel mmu_leds] pin: mmu:MMU_NEOPIXEL chain_count: 9 # Number gates x1 or x2 + 1 (if you want status) color_order: GRBW I believe that was it. If not, I can dig a little more.

[@Heyde84]

@@KapmansBasementWorkshop Unfortunately, the config does not work for me. I have also tested the 8 Neopixel cable, but this does not work at all. What I find strange with the Neopixel PCB is that when I deactivate it or switch from status to filament color, the number, position and color of the LEDs change with each switching. There is no consistency. But maybe there are kits with different hardware in circulation, my Microswitch PCB for the Coupler Blocks is also solid and not flexible like yours.

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

@@Heyde84 Seems the kit might have changed. But I've always had these led strips work the same way, except if when 3 or 4 colors. Hmmm.

[@QEngineering]

Thanks for another videoe, its been a lot of fun following along with you. 🍻

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Glad you enjoy it! Thank you for the nice comments and watching!

[@tjlqk3]

where is part 6?

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

It's a long story filled woith lost video and burnout. However, someone else went off and created the other needed videos. Have a look here: www.youtube.com/@SilverbackDesign-yd4dd

[@hum.ortales1753]

Iam using Arduino mega with RAMPS 1.4 HOW TO CONNECT TO IT

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

Do you have Klipper running on the Arduino? Or, are you using a Pi?

[@hum.ortales1753]

@KapmansBasementWorkshop I am using an Arduino Mega with a RAMPS 1.4 on top of it. That's it.

[@hum.ortales1753]

i am using marlin firmware

[@KapmansBasementWorkshop]

I am not aware of any marlin firmware extensions that support ERCF. ERCF was designed to work with Klipper. To make this work, I think you will need to change your printer's firmware to klipper. It's not hard to do, but I would work on that 1st. Thanks for the comments and watching!