Great project and outstanding outcome. Congrats

adding to the list of machines i want to build / buy but dont have time or the room in my tiny shed. 😂

Excellent job!!

Look forward to more info about this machine and the tools, thanks.

Sweet you remembered your password 😂👍👍

Cool!

Hey man, the reason you got chatter at 47:51 is probably because you're running the spindle forward instead of reverse. Since you have reversed the tooling to work around the back , I think you also need to reverse the spindle rotation. If that work piece were steel your carbide bit would have crumbled. Nice video though, thanks for sharing.

Can you build socket & ball joint articulating arm? This arm more flexible

Im about to start on a L00 collet chuck for my lathe. What im wondering is will the timing of the key mess with things? Ex. When turning the taper, the location of the lathes key needs to be marked on the new taper or it will be out of time.

Nice work on the parts and the video.

Pretty clever, it's a huge boring head for the mill. I wouldn't mind having a smaller wolhaupter for my siege sx3 but they're out of my budget for now.

Been wondering what happened to you, figured you pulled a This Old Tony on us lol. 👍👍

Nice work, my friend 👍!

Hello, are you interested in selling the old MK4 shank? Greetings from Germany…..

Thanks for this information.

ALSO I HAVEN'T SEEN SUCH LIGHTER FOR SPARK,

WHAT WAS THAT AT 28.00 .HOW AND WHY IT IS USED? PLEASE

WOW

Can you tell me what the thread sizes and lengths are on the differential screw, also the hole depth in the body of the head?

Why clamp it so tightly ? It is not going anywhere......

Ok so the differential screw is a M20-1.5 pitch and the other end is a 16mm- 2.5 pitch and then two 10mm guide pins 40mm apart ? If this is the correct Wohlhaupter differential screw then I would like to modify my UPA4 s/5 with an integrated shank to the removable shank like the newer heads could be equipped with. Just ordered some inserts for turning down that hardened shank. Hope it’s soft enough to drill and tap the center hole and the two 10 mm pins. I will definitely harden and temper it. ( It’s just a R8 ) But this setup is what allows them to operate in both directions. Otherwise the threaded shanks can back out making a real mess. I’m not sure how this will translate as the R8 has the smaller 7/16”-20 drawbar threads.. 🤔wonder if the Allen key would even fit through it.. or maybe use larger pins and a smaller center screw with a running fit shoulder ? This one’s gonna test me.

Interessante seria ter o desenho todo desta ferramenta , da cabeça sei que são muitas pecas, mas muitas partes do mundo não temos como ter uma , devido a impostos absurdos .

Great Build, we have all had the days when things just don"t go:)

Thanks for information. Though I have some 35 to 40 years experience in Machine tool and servicing, I have been gathering new ideas daily.... I am in to CNC CONSULTATION.

Regardless of the result nice part. I'm really impressed with the taper grinding quality from your setup with that long and relatively thin extension you build. I was expecting some chatter marks on the taper but it looks so good.

Where do you find that mounted stone you used for ID grinding?

I use ISCAR SGFH 32-3 with GFN3 IC354 inserts on the turning centers at work and are great. Iscar tooling is very good, especially for part off where you need a top tool

Could you hold the ball in the 3 jaw chuck on either the lathe or the mill?

433is for rhoughing bigger chip mor material to can take off

I was searching on how to do this for my low fidelity prototype, and I'm just AMAZED by this

"A tool that works for me not otherwise!" Man man man wie ich das verstehe! ^^

Nice! Do you sell these?

It looks as thought the blade is not held properly in the holder. Go to 34:43 or there abouts and you can see that the top part of the blade is more exposed as you look towards the work piece. Is the blade parallel to the motion of the top slide? Great vid btw, I've sub'd.

What did you thread on the boat at the elbow?

Time out?!? You said there’s designs for similar arms using closed hydraulic system?!? Link to examples please!!!

Incredible work 👏👏

You should use cutting fluid, a lot of cutting fluid. the blade breaks because it expands when heated and sticks to the edges.

Молодец!

You do all that nice machining why the hell do you force it like that... Welds cause a choke point, turn it down! Don't hammer it home wtf

Miljaar, die vliegt er nogal door! 😅 Ik zit met hetzelfde te sukkelen dan jij. Is feitelijk geen hobbymayeriaal, maar ik ga er toch es over nadenken om in zo’n ISCAR te investeren … Je bent toevallig niet uit regio Bornem?

Were you a tad bit low in height? this could explain why it made the piece jump in the chuck (tried to climb above the tool).

This is a most helpful video, Thank You for this video.

Gutsy effort on that last parting cut. Only just hanging on there at the end yikes

Great video. Curious how did you calculate the power required for each cut?

What is the part number of that parting blade and the numbers on box of inserts, please & thankyou, sure something like to have in future!

Small correction I think, It's probably 316 not 304 as 304 is slightly magnetic at least in Australia. Not sure if grades are different elswhere in the world.

thanks for the follow up it was very informative

I can't clearly see the part numbers on the phone, it looks like the holder is ISCAR TGFH with a TAG/NLF insert ? It might be a tad expensive for the average hobbyist unless you get them on flea bay for a good price.