Puting the s85 in the b tier is a crime, should be at A

Got a 1uz in my 96 sc400. 259k miles and still going strong.

Why everybody in the comments is only talking about LS3 bro... I need LS2 feedback 😂

6.1 hemi😶

6.1 hemi😶

ZR-1 70 ANNIVERSARY 👌💯. Lobe this package with the mid engine motor. That's something very cool and unique. Make it as pinnacle

LS6 should be S tier. C5 Z06 have alot of torque and are fast. Garbage video

No viper?

You forgot the EA855EVO!!

I love my Gen 3 Coyote, but I really feel it's a shame Ford couldn't use the Trinity in a more varied application. Look at all these 5.0 F150's out here doing work. Now, imagine something reminiscent of the Gen 1 Lightning. A RCSB aluminum bodied F150 with a Ti-VCT 12-1 5.8. I'm sure the EPA had a heavy influence in preventing it, but it'd be pretty cool imo.

Do you need the Bosch sensor for the gauge to work as intended?

where is the eagle scream!?!?!?!? 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🦅🦅🦅🦅🦅

Funny this narrator says there are "probably some better options at 100 grand" but doesn't name one example...let's face it-the C6ZR1 is one of the greatest supercars of all time, regardless of price.

Ive been watching your videos for a while and just realized how small this channel is. I would've sworn this was a way bigger channel for the production quality. Awesome video and build

Bro y didn’t u put tape on the corvette flags logo that would’ve been sick on black rims

I have the 1.9 five cilinder in my vw Santana. It is fun to drive, nice quiet engine but if you rev it up it has a nice sound

It sound's like so much fun to drive

LFA FANBOYS ARE TRIGGERED HAHA😂😂 The LFA isn’t a terrible car to put it bluntly, it’s just not the best to me. Let me put it this way, I like cars with a manual transmission, and fast cars, and those with a raspy V12 sound like the Pagani Zonda for example. The LFA isn’t the best car for the price. It’s not the best car to me, it may be the holy grail of a car to some people, but not to me🤷🏽‍♂️

"Corvette rims have never been their strongpoint"?? The sawblades on my 1996 are straight fire man!

Here's what Dodge made simple: The Hellcat/Redeye/Demon engines are all based off of the absolutely reliable and beefy structure/internals of the original 5.7 Hemi. That's why those supercharged engines are so good, is because it's basically just a slightly bigger 5.7 with a giant 2.3-3.0 supercharger slapped on top. Same story with the 6.1 and 6.4 Hemis, except the internals kind of downgraded from the 6.1 to 6.4. That would explain why the 6.4 struggles to take boost without having to install aftermarket internal parts.

2.5 r5 tdi in audi 100 a6 and volvos also was in volvo s80 1st gen

5.4 triton is s tier

No 6.1 hemi ?

I had a dream that I bought this car and I don't even like Camaros, so random but it is a beautiful car

so happy to see the GM 3.8 getting some love what a great motor

17 likes and 13.5k subs is CRAZY. This channel should be much bigger. Editing was awesome. Like seeing how everything came together!

I think the ls3 and coyote3 are the best to modify. This list is only based on stock performance and reliability, which is exactly what its supposed to be. But for the money, LS3 and Coyote3 for mods/racing applications.

R2R. Any thoughts on upgrading your engine when this Matsuda lets go ? ? Thank you Acura I-5 replacement ! ! V.

I love how you did the recap but I wish you make little comments about why you upgraded this thing

Is the blackbird rollbar much better than harddog? Harddog is much cheaper

Glad I watched this. It was really entertaining. It’s funny because I went from a 392 Hemi to a C7 with the LT1 and even though it was faster I found the engine to be completely boring. I’m back with the 392 now with a manual this time. It’s been my personal experience that I enjoy engine with a close HP/TQ figure for drivability. That said if you want to go fast buy a mustang. If you want to buy a fast car buy a Corvette. If you want to do burnouts buy a challenger.

Clean title...haha. 1st ever heard someone say that

Wish I had seen this before this weekend. But good explanation! If you have a Subaru forester/crosstrek/ascent/outback from years 19-21, take my advice and get yourself several small extensions 2x1”, 1x 1-1/2”, 1x2” (if you don’t want to bother with the separation of the 1” extensions”). The passenger side is no problem and I got it done fairly easy. The driver’s side rear is the biggest pain in the ass if you don’t have the above listed extensions. I have a 21 forester sport, so it may be a little more spacious in the ascent/outback but they all have pretty much the same engine layout and I got the instructions on how to do it from videos on a crosstrek and ascent. Get one or two small/flat screw drivers and/or small pry bar/panel fastener removal tool in order to help separate the extensions from the wrench. This is where it would have paid to have a very low profile and non quick release wrench as it is difficult to push the button on the back of the wrench when trying to separate everything out, I would have much rather just pry it apart with a flat head. Also the magnetic wand was a life saver. The problem is on drivers side rear for the forester is once the spark plug starts threading out you don’t have space to remove the 3” extension so I had to screw back in the spark plug, take off the extension and maguyver whatever small extensions/size conversions I had in my tool kit that I could remove as it threaded out. So maybe even just 3x1” might be all you need but I want to make sure I’m set for next time without any hassle. Also for next time I plan on getting the lowest profile 3/8 (non quick release) I can find. Possibly a flex head. Currently looking at tekton brand. Buy spark plug specific grease to make removal easier next time. A twist handle ratchet like from Stanley would have also saved me a lot of hassle because the fuse box and computer wiring harnesses are a massive pain in the ass to work around. Pretty sure Subaru make everything as difficult as possible to try and force your hand into bringing it in for service. I had an absolute nightmare with it and took me about 6 hours on the driver’s side only without the proper tools. GET THE RIGHT TOOLS. Cannot stress this enough.

I have a gen 2 coyate it makes 435 horsepower and that is plenty for me and so far it’s been reliable , I’m only at 24k miles but i heard there bullet proof and people continue to thrash them above 105k miles .

Vibration is minimal and you really have to look at the balancer closely to see if it wobbles at all. Is this something I can wait until springtime It will be going up for winter storage next week. Mine is a 2005 with 74k miles.

There were many versions of the 2.5 TDI and there were two "generations" of it- the belt driven cam iron block and gear driven cam aluminium block. The iron block had rotary pump (or commonrail in the VW Crafter van) and aluminium block had PD unit injectors. The most powerful version for cars was the aluminium block 2.5TDI in Volkswagen Touareg making over 170hp and 295lbft of torque. Iron block is an amazingly reliable engine, regularly pushing 500k km with no issues and is still produced and sold for marine and industrial use.

American i4 list pls

So basically, it's an overpriced MR2.

did you use primer on the barrels of the rims? Did you primer the whole wheel first or primer face, paint face and then primer barrels and then paint barrels?

16:40 I wouldn't call the Audi 2.0 R5 TD's performance figures abysmal in comparison to what was around at the time. To put it into perspective, the '82-'88 built 2.0 R5 TD produces 87 hp and 172 Nm torque (the reworked model from '88-'90 produces 100 hp and 192 Nm of torque), while other diesel cars of that era produced similar figures. For example, the BMW M21D24 from the E30 324d and 324td produced 115 hp and 220 Nm of torque in the td variant and that motor was a 6 cylinder with 2.4l displacement! The VW Golf I & II, Jetta I & II and Passat B2 all had a 4 cylinder 1.6l turbo diesel with 70 hp and 130 Nm of torque. So I'd argue that the Audi 2.0 R5 TD was rather among the midfield regarding power, having an edge over smaller 4 cyl engines in terms of torque. And let's not forget that the old style turbos didn't give you the boost in performance like modern turbos do. The older style turbo was more like an add-on for a naturally aspirated diesel to make it produce less soot. This is also clear if you look at the performance figures, where the peak torque is at a much higher RPM compared to the modern style turbos. For example, the aforementioned BMW E30 324td had its peak torque at 2400 RPM (the 324d without the turbo at 2500 RPM), or the VW 1.6 4cyl at 2500 RPM. Compare that to later turbo diesel engines like the VW 1.9l TDI (AGR/ALH/AHF/ASV/ATD/AXR/ASZ, 1996-2010) which had their max torque at 1800/1900 RPM or look at even more modern engines like the Mercedes OM651 4cyl turbo diesel (2008+) which reaches its max torque somewhere between 1400 and 1600 RPM, depending on the variant.

First factory corvette to break 200, I cannot and will never get over the Callaway sledgehammer

where is j series

My 5.7 got me to 137, I now drive a taco though and don’t regret it.

eManual seems like a good resource but from Hong Kong, and misspelled cover wording? Also more than one for my car. Seems like more than 5 might be the right one. Doesn't look legit.

I’ve owned and drove a lot of v8s over the years ford Chevy dodge ect and by far the best engine has been the 5.3 vortec not the best in power output but definitely gets the job done but reliability is amazing and the upgrade options is top tier these engines can easily handle 700+ horse power with stock internals

C6 Z06 with a head upgrade at least. Done!

Can you please make a tier list strictly on reliability?

IMO the sweet spot is the C6 Z16 Grand Sport, especially in a 6 speed manual. All of the goodies that a Z06 has minus the worry-some LS7. Yes, it’s an awesome motor but for those who don’t want to be paranoid about a valve dropping the LS3 is still plenty of fun!