Hi Ian. PureRaw 4 looks only at the actual Raw file that’s on your hard drive, it ignores anything you have done with Lightroom. So it doesn’t matter what you do to it in Lightroom. Try this… create an absurd edit to a photo, then open it in PureRaw4. You’ll see in the preview in the PR window the absurd edit hasn’t been applied and you’re only dealing with the raw file data. Hope that makes sense 😊 if you do apply edits to the original file and at the end of the workflow go into PR, simply copy and paste the settings from the original file to the new dng.

Thank you for sharing your thoughts on how you shoot Fashion. I think it’s easy to assume most pros shoot with auto iso in changeable light.

That’s quite strange. I have not come across that issue. If anyone has had the same issue and found a fix, please drop a comment below 🙏🏻

Thanks so much for watching! 🙌🏻 Appreciate the comment.

Thanks for sharing that you shoot in the same way. I’m sure you’re enjoying the noise performance on the A1 😊

Let me know if you found the new DNG file 😊

@@MarkDumbleton Will do when I get home.

Thank you Mark. I found the files.

Hi, it does place it in a collection, but go to the folder where your original file is, and the new dng will be there 😊

Thanks for the comment. To be honest, I would keep the 400 f4.5. That is new glass and to me, a better option. I would rather spend the extra money on getting a 1.4x converter for the 400 for extra reach. I don’t advise going back to f-mount glass on the new Z cameras. That 400 f4.5 is a beauty!

@@MarkDumbleton ok thank you, I already have the Z 1.4 Tc & Z 70-200mm f2.8. But the problem here in India is that there is no time to attach a teleconverter as tiger sightings 95% of time usually last only a few minutes and they are constantly moving and jungles are very dense. So sometimes the 400mm becomes a bit short also. There is lots of dust. So, I was expecting to get a thinner depth of field (more separation) & subject isolation. This is the main reason but I am not sure how big of a difference it would be. This problem doesn't happen in places like the Maasai Mara. Another option I was thinking of getting the 180-600mm for better versatility & reach and also keep the 400mm f4.5.

I would definitely say the 180-600 and 400 f4.5 will be way better than only a 500 f4 F-mount with ftz adapter. I use the 180-600 100% of the time for my wildlife stuff, and can honestly say it performs super well. Yes depth of field won’t be as shallow as 500f4 for super blurred backgrounds, but the versatility for me is more important than having f4. I had a Lion charge a Zebra, right in front of me, and I only had a 500mm lens. I didn’t get any shots because the action was too close to capture it with a 500mm. If I had the 180-600 then, I would have had insane photos of a Lion on the back of a Zebra. So versatility wins every time for me!

@@MarkDumbleton Yes I totally agree about the versatility specially for safaris as you are always locked in a safari vehicle. Thanks a lot & waiting for more on field videos 🙏

@@stripes_in_raw Thanks! Got some new trips coming up soon 😀

I too like having more information to work with on the new DNG file. I’m glad my review has given you some insight into the new version. Thanks so much for watching and for taking the time to share your experience with the software.

Thanks for recommending it to me 😊 Interested to hear your thoughts if you do upgrade from v2.

@@MarkDumbleton you're welcome. When I watched the video I didn't even see that I'm the subscriber who recommended DXO 🙈🙉🙊 I must say Pure Raw 4 looks packed with AMAZING features! The force details feature looks like it creates artifacts in some places, similar to what Topaz Sharpen sometimes does (depending on the sharpening model that you use)

I agree about the force details being similar to what Topaz does. I’m not a fan of that. But the DENOISE is excellent and I love the lens softness a lot!

Thanks so much Kobus! Appreciate the message!

I really appreciate the comment, and I’m glad you managed to learn something 😊

Excellent to hear, glad it’s faster! That always helps 😊 thanks for watching and for the comment!

I really appreciate that, great to hear from a fellow pro that I’m not talking rubbish 😊

Hey Louis, good to hear from you. Hope the bush is treating you well! To be honest I’ve stopped using Topaz. I found that I was avoiding using it because it’s too cumbersome for me. There are too many options and I’ve also found the results are not as good as I am getting now from Pure Raw 4. Pure Raw 4 is so much easier to use, controls are way simpler and I’m able to get through the raw Denoise / sharpen part much quicker and I don’t avoid it now. Topaz delivers good results, if you’re prepared to tweak the settings and spend the time. But for me, I’m getting better results (less artifacts) using PR4 and it’s way quicker.

Mark, thanks for the prompt reply. I normally denoise before processing and sharpen when complete. So this means you denoise and sharpen before processing?

I now Denoise the file and apply the lens softness adjustment before editing. The lens softness basically tightens up the details. I then will add sharpening in Lightroom after doing the edits. I’m bringing out a video this coming Sunday showing my new full workflow implementing PR4.

Thanx Mark

Hey Carol, thanks for the comment. Glad you managed to figure out the notifications 😊 I’m super happy to hear that the vids have helped you with your processing!

Thanks for the comment. I see in PR4 there is an option inside Lightroom to process the file without even needing to leave Lightroom. If you know what settings you use the majority of the time, it can be done using the second option under the plugin extras called “process instantly with DxO PureRaw 4”

Thanks so much for the comment and for watching. Topaz gets decent results, but it’s a lot more cumbersome to use because of the plethora of options. If you’re prepared to spend time tweaking a whole host of options then it can produce satisfactory results. I find Pure Raw4 to be way simpler, and the results I’m getting are honestly better. Files are cleaner in terms of less artifacts and the lens softness setting in PR4 is excellent. I can accomplish exactly what I need using PR4 in less than a minute, as opposed to spending 5+ minutes in Topaz tweaking everything. That’s a lot of time when you have plenty files to edit.

Hi Bruce, thanks for the comment. I’m coming into the PR ecosystem directly with version 4. I haven’t used any of the others so I can’t comment on whether the upgrade is worth it. Perhaps Download the trial version and see what the results are like compared to PR3. I would be very interested to hear, so if you do compare, please drop a reply here with your findings.

Thanks for the comment Peter. I totally agree with your “double the focal length” shutter speed theory, especially for hand holding. I find that I don’t need to use the double the focal length shutter speed if I am shooting from a beanbag or with very new image stabilisation technology.

Thanks so much for sharing your views on using the R-series Canon cameras. I am not familiar at all with this new mode, but it certainly sounds useful.

@@MarkDumbleton If you shoot Canon r-series cameras, do a KZbin search of Fv mode. It's the ONLY way I shoot manual and I shoot manual - always!

Hi Garnet! I honestly believe DxO is better, and it’s much simpler and quicker to use. I also find Topaz creates a lot of artifacts and often doesn’t perform a very uniform job across the entire image. I’ll do some batch tests and reply with my findings.

Hi Reece, thanks so much for the comment. Glad you found my channel and hope you find value in my vids and you get to learn something 😊

Thanks for sharing your opinion. Makes me even more confident of my choice.

Thanks for the comment. I haven’t done any batches yet, but according to other reviews it does a good job. I’ll test it out and perhaps make a follow up video, or comment here with my findings.

Awesome! Thank you so much! I know you’re going to love it!

Thanks so much! I appreciate that a lot!

Thanks so much for the feedback on how you set the camera up. Makes perfect sense 😊

I only enable CA correction. I don’t apply any lens corrections, unless it’s a wide lens and the horizon is distorted. When you stretch pixels by correcting distortion, you lose a tiny bit of sharpness, so I always advise to never correct for distortion unless something looks strange.

Thanks Keith, I appreciate that. I definitely believe PR4 is top of the pile when it comes to Denoise. I absolutely love the lens softness correction!

Thanks so much for the comment. Haha not the first time I’ve been called Dumbledore 😂

Thanks so much! I hope you found some value in the video. Thanks so much for the sub!

You’re welcome! Thanks so much for watching and for taking the time to comment 🙌🏻

Thanks so much for watching and for the comment.

Thanks so much! Glad I’ve convinced you to try out the manual with auto iso mode!

@MarkDumbleton in a controlled environment yes. The manual is the best. But fast-moving subjects in uncontrolled lighting.. auto iso is best

Thanks so much for the comment. We think the same, it is very liberating not thinking about ISO. Also I’ve been testing Pure Raw 4 over the last month and I’m completely sold on it 😊

Thanks so much for leaving your method on how you shoot. Much appreciated!

Well, professionals are worrying about exposure if they are working in uncontrolled environments - of course they know how be prepared for different situations. Quite often Aperture Priority mode with Auto ISO Min Shutter Speed is the answer. Key words in your comments were"as a portraitist" which means that these are very specific technics for specific genre...

@@pawelmod3292 Yes, but a portraitist can be shooting in both a controlled studio environment or our doors in run and gun. Lots of ways to get exposure, incident, hand held with spot reflective with our without zone system, in camera matrix metering, spot, exposure compensation button or moving camera then lock new exposure. Have to find what works for what you shoot and how you like to do it. But someone with a meter in studio instead of the, you don't need a meter digital folks, can quickly produce a ratio they like quickly and tomorrow reproduce it. Some of my best shots involved lighting set up after I heard the dreaded words, you have 5 minutes. But what folks must realize, if you can just quickly dial in exposure, you then can concentrate on the purpose of message of the shot, or pose, gesture expression and leave behind the basically mechanical exposure setting. I'm not saying exposure isn't important, subject/bg relative brightness/ subj ratio should all support the image, but once you master getting it, it's like nike says, just do it. Once set, you can get down to business.

Thanks so much for watching! Enjoy the photography journey, it really is an amazing hobby that I know you’ll enjoy for a long time to come!

Thanks so much for watching, and for sharing your experience in Kruger! I absolutely agree, rather get a sharp noisier shot than a blurred shot you’re going to delete. Haha I too have spent many hours shooting Rollers in Kruger, such a fun bird for photography!

Thanks for leaving your thoughts here. Luckily on mirrorless cameras the shutter speeds go beyond 1/8000 which helps alleviate this over exposure, but I can see the benefit to using the suggested Av priority. You’ll just need to adjust the minimum shutter speed according to subject.

Thanks so much for watching and for leaving the comment. I hope you found value in the video, and some tips to use when you visit SA next year. Happy to hear you’re visiting my beautiful home country.

Thanks so much for watching, and I’m glad the video helped!

Thanks so much for the comment, and thanks for backing my information up. Great to hear from a fellow pro photographer!

advertising photog (studio) here, agreeing on your statement. Best for us is using the basic ISO of the sensor, mostly 100 or 200 for the lowest colour noise.

Ya I also do motorsports photography and auto iso has been a must

you're right, Im a fashion photographer and work mostly in very controlled condition so I set up my ISO based on what I need, but I also shoot a lot of runways and in a lot of fashion shows lighting conditions vary very fast and there I do use auto ISO.

Hi Joanna, thanks for the comment. Can you please explain to me how you would go about taking photographs of wildlife without the use of high ISO’s if you think my information is nonsense? Also, I never once mentioned High ISO doesn’t make noisy images?

Your comment is nonsense.

Absolutely, it’s my preferred method for good reasons.

I appreciate the comment, thanks so much for watching!

Thanks for watching Robert, hope you managed to learn something 😊