Hi Paul, Russ at Path Less Pedaled has made a Brompton upgrade on his new P Line

I always use multi purpose polish on my bikes keeps them looking like new . I wash with a bucket of soapy water dry then polish it's worked on all my bike including motorcycles

Beautiful bike ...enjoy

Tried to convey theses ideas in other ways, as YT didn't allow! I think I have the photos I saved from Flickr if interested, and give another alternative than shop! I'll say no more Sarah.

My advice purchase a front rack, then you can fit 2 bottle on the front of the rack, and can use panniers. as you can't do that on the rear rack!

Must warn you moulton bicycle gallery is large! Ranging Series 1 to latest, but you will find some solutions. Would have sent you the pictures, but not allowed!!!

Me again! no bottle mounts! Suggest you look at Flickr Moulton catergory for some ideas to get extra bottle mounts. Have looked, especially if you consider using the front rack mounts left and right.

MTB = Disc. Road = Rim unless you want to ride in very hilly areas with a lot of rain. I get lost too with all the marketing niches of MTB; I have no clue what they are on about. In about 2003 I was aware of Downhill and XC but now there seem to be as many categories as pronouns recognised in New York.

Sorry, but the system weight rating as given by DT Swiss is a pure nonsense - you don't know the actual weight distribution! The only proper rating is axle load. Majority of the rims are given 60-65 kg of axle load. Some are given up to 120 kg - but is this really true? - Who knows? Regarding the front wheel: If you do not use panniers on the front and have the most basic suspension - anything goes there for 5 years, and even more. What breaks and really matters is no the back: And still - for 5 years anything goes here too. It's even better to have a weak rim - it will start cracking - but slower than than the spokes braking with a strong rim. The warranty is completely irrelevant. If it breaks - you replace it with the same - than it breaks again... The problem is: How do you build it so it does not break? What I see here is first: strong rims and strong hubs - but that's a common sense. The non trivial things go with the spokes: You suggest Sapim Strong (2.0-2.0-2.3 mm) Some people suggest Sapim E-Strong (2.3-2.3-2.6 mm) And some even suggest Sapim Race (2.0-1.8-2.0 mm) And what the spoke tension needs to be? Usually minimum non drive side is considered 65 kgf, and maximum drive side is considered 130 kgf.

well done Paul twise over just out of interest what gear inches does a 39t chainring give you.

Shimano v-brakes are the best v-brakes ever. Works like hydraulics

The power of steel from lever to wheel 👍

Carnivorous forests sound scary

Hi I have a question? What is the weight of your GT-Bike? I have got exactly the same GT-Bike (yellow) 1997 but a Rock Shox Indy SL on it. Kindest Regards from Germany

Say what? You expect these heavy metal wheels to last only 5 years before they start to decompose??? What metal is that, chewing gum?

Beautiful wheel and it's obvious that a lot of thought has gone into the build. I'd like to ask you though, why weave the spokes? At one time, bicycles made at Nottingham had woven spokes and bicycles from Coventry did not. When I worked for Pashley, a very experienced engineer told me that whenever he bought a new bike he had to take the wheels apart to un-weave the spokes and then rebuild them again. I thought about this and think he is right; there is no evidence that weaving is superior and it means that a spoke can't be plucked to hear it's tension.

Very good video however, you omitted to mention that caution is required cycling over wet dead leaves. Could lead to a crash (I speak from experience). Subbed

I had a set of Scott AT4 bars on my 90s Rockhopper, was awesome.

I have been using my Ribbles 753 now for about 28 years, beautiful ride, would not do without it.

Hi, what are your thoughts on oiling/greasing the mating surfaces of the hinges? Thoroughly enjoy your videos.

Really interesting. Is it typically the rim that determines the maximum load on the wheel? What role does number or spokes play? Thanks.

At 4:05, one thing's for sure. Paul is built... sweet. ♥

Agree 100%! My 25-year-old Spinergy Spox wheels (with flexible carbon spokes) served me faithfully with NO need for truing EVER, until a particularly lumpy downhill put paid to the rear wheel. I recently took delivery of a handbuilt set of TUBELESS 26" wheels based on Velocity Cliffhanger rims and Bitex hubs - both highly recommended. 26 inch tubeless rim brake suitable rims are rare as hen's teeth - Velocity and Andra are AFAIK the only manufacturers.

I prefer disc brakes, but there are companies making beautiful rim brakes that I would be happy to buy. My issue is how hard it is to fit the tyres I want to run on a light bike with single or double post caliper brakes. I prefer 35-38mm supple tyres and I would be forced to go to a bike with cantilever or v-brakes, which are almost always heavier. Rim brake aficionados I know well are okay with skinny tyres, but even though I can’t say I hate rim brakes, I *DEFINITELY* hate skinny tyres.

When I switched to 28-32c road tires it improved the quality of the ride where I’d never go back. Hydros are more stopping power than a road bike needs but for gravel and MTB riding I couldn’t. Imagine going back to rim brakes. I’m a fan of disc brakes all around

Disc brakes on road bikes are for people with low IQ

I think rim brakes will still be around and you can get parts for them. There'll be a market fot it at tbe entry level, and at specialist shops like SJS, in the same way you can still buy 7,8,9 speed cassettes and other things. Since moving to hydraulic disc ln the road bike it's a lot more relaxing and reassuring knowing the braking is powerful, consistent and requires less effort to pull the brake levers. Over a long rode that saves a lot of mental and physical fatigue, which all helps. Pretty much no issues with my shimano ultegra hydros in around 2 years of riding. No rub, no squeel, consistent braking. If something makes the ride more enjoyable I'll take it. I hate the sound of grit grinding against rims, which in the UK, could happen all year round not just the winter. Also have a set of spyres on one of my bikes which work perfectly well so I dont see the issue eith mechanical discs. In fact i think they're great as the home mechanic can maintain them.

As a heavier rider disc brakes are not only better but a necessity...

Thanks for sharing, great perspectives. Also like to add that disc brakes simply increase cost of maintenance and purchasing a modern road bike.Today's road bikes are too expensive.

Super video,thanks for the point,i forgot about than you have to replace rotors to with disc and quality Ice-Tech rotors are expensive.

No.

I prefer hydraulic braking for MTB and Urban riding. Rim braking for everthing else and as I gladly saw in your video - steel forks! Nice, compliant steel forks are the most unerrated bike part these days.

i bought the rim brake scope R4 wheels this summer and the brakes stopping power is better then any of alu wheels i had for the last 14 years

tbh I'd use rim brakes all the time if i could, but I don't like road bikes since XC MTBs or trekking bikes like the Riverside 920 (to name one) along with fitness bikes like the Canyon Pathlite 6 are my faovuirite, but what about the wheel size? I wonder how you fitted those breaks on that bike with wide tyres. Do rim brakes for wide tyres exist at all?

Disc brakes may not be entirely a passing fad like most industry "inovations" however I think manufacturers will definitely loose custom by removing all rim brake options. I am constantly amazed at what people buy in to as regards bike tech.

I like disc brakes but they rub randomly for no apparent reason and are much more of a PITA on a daily basis. Surely we have car disc brakes that work effectively the same level of reliable tech should be available in the bike world.

Surly no longer have a rim brake equipped frame!☹

I hate the look of disc brakes on road bikes so will always use rim. I’m so fed up with the squealing discs on my CX bike that I’ve just bought one with cantilevers. If you are a skilled bike rider braking isn’t a problem. The industry has seen a big influx of wealthy weekend warriors since the 2012 Olympics and the marketing has gone crazy and people believe it all. I’ve just come back from the alps on carbon tubular rim brake wheels and was flying past all the guys on discs on the descents. The best thing is getting some great bargain wheel sets now. They are also a lot lighter and more aero due to having a lot less spokes

Long live rim brakes and mechanical shifting

Rim brakes aren’t going anywhere. I would like to see improvements in carbon wheel brake pads and rim braking surfaces.

The biggest alleged gripe that I hear about not being able to run larger volume tires is just so stupid. Sure, Shimano top end rim brakes can barely run 30mm tires at max. But Shimano is hardly the only one that makes brakes! Tekto R559 easily runs 40c tires no sweat with Shimano STI shifters...now get good pads wit that and trust me, you won't be complaining unless you are the 1% of riders....and you can go soooooo much bigger in tire sizes if you decide to go V brake route. A good rim brake wheelset built with quality hubs and rim brakes is so, so much better than boring, heavy mechanical disc brake bikes.

What would it take for today's bike frames to be built for "either - or"? In looking at my bike frames, there are a couple bosses for the rim brakes to pivot on and maybe a crosspiece. This wouldn't add a whole lot of weight and give the consumer an extra option. Wouldn't a manufacturer have an advantage in offering that choice? There is a market out there for people who want to keep their bikes simple and reliable.

Sram Red 2012 side pull calipers and alloy wheels. Lighter than disc. A lot less faffing about.

I have both. Is not a problem

Love my rim brake bikes. It’s such a simple, no fuss, system. Discs feel like overkill for 90% of riders.

I agree with nearly everything you say: discs for off-road etc etc. BUT I strongly disagree that cable discs are useless. Some might be but the TRP Spyres I use on my winter road bike are perfect: plenty of bite with the correct compressionless cables, very easy to adjust with individual pad adjustment, more adjustable than hydros in terms of lever throw/reach etc, they work with almost any levers. On a wet, leaf/gravel strewn descent in the Peak District they are better than the Ultegra calipers on my best road bike....and they are not wearing my rims out.

Yes. RIP.

Vinyl records were dead, once 🤣

Interesting discussion and enjoyable video. I think you would love my 1997 Litespeed Obed hardtail - it has rim brakes AND 26" wheels! You say that disc brakes are needed on a mountain bike, but rim brakes are just fine on my MTB (though I don't do jumps or crazy downhills). I did encounter two issues recently, though. First was a gravel event in Germany, when my front brake failed as I was testing it just as I crossed the start line. The little widget at the end of the brake noodle had split. Guess what? None of the mechanics at the event had a replacement brake noodle - because "everybody" uses disc brakes! We managed to bodge a fix, but it wasn't reliable and the course was very technical so I couldn't ride the event (after driving two days to get there, grrrrr). The other issue was a very wet, very gritty 5-day ride in Scotland recently. Before I started, my brake pads (Avid Rim Wranglers) were about half-worn, at most. By the end of the second day, they were worn almost to the metal, from all the grinding. These were new wheels (Velocity Cliff-hanger rims and Bitex hubs) and I don't know if the quick wear was due to a combination of the "grinding paste" (rain plus mud and grit) and the new rims, which were anodised. Anyway, luckily I was carrying spare pads - but after another three days, even the new pads were worn halfway! I've never known brake pads to wear so quickly before, and don't know if disc brake pads would have fared better - probably, as disc brakes are further away from the ground. So, there's a potential additional disadvantage of rims brakes.

I love my lightweight Ultegra rim braked bike, the current carbon wheelset have done over 40,000 miles and the bearings are the only things that have worn out - I use an aluminium rim in the winter months and they work perfectly.