Thanks for this vid! I have a old land rover i just got with this carby on it and you anwsered alot of my questions! Its not running well and happy thanks to your vid

Rob just wondering if you could help me out. I have a few projects and got stuff around. I'll have to finish one to fund the next to keep the sandman

Does anyone know what’s happened to Rob and Deb ?? I hope everything is ok ❤❤

Thanks Rob, very comprehensive video that has helped me restore my carby.

Excellent info - thanks Rob. Rebuilding carby for the old HR this weekend.

'no brakes!'....no bl00dy steering wheel either!

This vid is bloody brilliant! Thanks so much Rob. Had more trouble than a canary cage full of cats with one of these fitted on an SV1 Valiant, presumably retrofitted from a VE or VF Valiant. Carby model is 4-3503.9.15 with a Needle & seet side marking of 2376108 1 7/32. Base appears to be marked BXUV-3. I will clarify the base numbers after full dismantle. I'm assuming the 1 7/32 is the bore diam being larger to suit the 225 slant 6 airflow. I'd love to find more in the way of specs and detail on it. Again, many thanks for your effort.

You really cant kill a good old Holden. The red sixes are my favourite . So simple but so many ways to play with them. and an old one will always start.Thanks Rob. Love the channel . New subscriber.

cool vid Rob. I love the Holden red 6. I have 6 202s and a One Tonner with the mighty 202 and 5 speed commodore box Holley 350 carby...... as you do and the extractors. Shes a cool cruiser. Well done getting your 186 running. I knew it would. You know your Reds.

Thanks for the tutorial, I've been learning to gas weld and not finding much information about panel welding. I appreciate your well explained responses in the comment section too.

Hi Rob, I haven't seen anything from you or Debbie in a long time. Hope you both are well.

Great to see the old dear going again !... really good viewing...

Cool

You get so many comments on what thickness wire to use. Some say .6 for panel, .9 for general, 1.2 for chassis pieces. Be a nice video!

Hi All, I just watched your video right through and it is great as I have one of those Strombergs on my 179. I've had an interim issue where occasionally had the float bowl run dry and so the engine stops. Worked my way up and replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, and float needle. Had a bit more of a play today and with the top of the carby off it runs fine, idles, etc. However, when I screw the top down, the float bowl runs dry? The gasket between the two is pretty ordinary and I've ordered a replacement but I was wondering if I could pick your brains to see what else it could be. Cheers Jason

Love your stromberg video

Hey rob, would be great to see you do a weber off a ford 250 crossflow, (believe they’re a weber 34 adm or something) and show how to tune it as well, I can’t find any good videos for my 250 xf

Thanks i just got my dream car at 18, a hd holden and this is gonna help alot

I really miss my old FJ Ute, thanks for your channel

Hi, everyone. does anybody know what's happened to Rob? Really hope he is OK.

Bloody beauty mate love to learn from these videos. Thank Rob for putting these up. 😀

What a legend, such a dying trade

Loving the videos, your Stromberg rebuild video really helped me out!

I brought one new in 87 from nutters ford Berwick 16k Pacific blue 5 speed manual ute fuel gauge was faulty from day one lol

Hi Rob great helpful video, just wondering if you could send a closer pic of the discharge removal tool and size, I can not find one so I will try to make one. Thanks, very helpful video

Thank you! You saved my a#& today!

He was Wright when you wad to take the hose was easy to get off

I have been working on on Toyota ot have much knowledge of holdens but I would like to pick your brains and knowledge on holdens

Well bugger me, didn't think that would start!

Hello Rob stuart from wellard in perth here. My 1977 cf 220 bedford van has the 173 red engine, the Stromberg carby stared being rough having no idle now and having the accelerate to keep her happy. Suggestions please good sir?? Come do a video on the bedford of you like 😊

Love the video, has helped me fix my 186 a little bit, but not enough to get it going. One of the rockers was off the spring, the engine just wont fire.

How long have they allowed cut a shut on snazzy rails

All so cut the line in the middle and join with hose and clips

Disconnect pipe off petrol pump lift it up with manifold and carby

Lovely videos matey,Beautiful! Thank you ,buy a torch

Where are you Rob been a long time since your last post. 🤔

Just what I have been seaching for Rob. Very in depth demostration. Appreciated.

started in 1960 doing holden stromberg carbs do them with my eyes shut.😃

Very smart, very well thought out , very well execute , brilliant .....WELL DONE !!

Actually i wanna know is there have jobs to do like this it may be help to me ?

Hi Rob I just found your video on carbs, I have a 1938 Chevy with a stromburg carb. It started bogging out one day after driving it the last 4 years every weekend I have cleaned the carb replaced plugs points cap and rotor the leads are only 4 year’s old and there is spark . The mixture screw doesn’t seem to be making any difference when screwing in or out, it had some wear on the shaft of the point? I am no professional but like to give anything a go , I have done a bit of mechanical work on it but see that you know what you are talking about. Any advice would be I would appreciate.

I'm having issues with the wooden spokes on one of the wheels my 1930 Hudson. The wheel is the same configuration as your 1925 Dodge wheel. That being that the tenon of the wood spokes fit into a steel rim. As opposed to the other method where the tenon of the wood spoke fits into a two piece half circle of wood that is then pressed into a steel rim. The style that we have has an inherent flaw. That being that all the spokes are pressed into the steel rim all at once gradually. The tenon on the spoke must enter the hole in the rim at an angle with this method. Therefore the spoke tenon must be a smaller diameter than the opening in the steel. Over decades of rotational torque, this gap increases. I have tried 3 times to fill that gap in each spoke with epoxy, but it only lasts for a couple hundred miles. The other issue is that the opening for the valve stem allows water to get into the area between the wheel steel rim and the steel rim that holds the tire. This can create rust around the spoke opening as well as create deterioration in the Hickory tenon over time. I believe I have come up with a more suitable solution which will make the wheel stronger. At least in theory. The thing is, once I start if it doesn't work, the spokes are destroyed. The wood tenons on my spokes are 75/128" diameter. They should have been much larger in diameter. I am going to drill out the tenon, one spoke, at a time. Then by using a gig that I have designed that fits into the opening in the steel rim designed to keep a drill positioned so it drills a hole down into the spoke about an inch, following the axis of the spoke as perfect as possible. I have made up specially designed stud, so to say that resembles a 5/16" bolt. Except that the head is deeper than a standard bolt, and there are no threads on the shaft section. The design of my steel rim is that there is a shoulder at each spoke hole that is 5/16" deep. That shoulder appears to be pressed into shape when the steel rim was red hot. This is to my benefit, so the custom stud will seat into the opening so that the head will be tight the full depth of that 5/16" shoulder. Then I will be mig weld the studs into place. Checking and double checking to make sure that the wheel is spinning true as I go through the process with each of the 10 spokes. Originally the strength of the spoke was in that (less than 1/2" diameter) tenon. But with my method not only is the sheer strength resistance stronger because it is now steel instead of wood. But I am reducing the diameter to 5/16". This 5/16" hole drilled down the centre of the spoke allows close to 1" of wood on each side of the oval spoke and almost 3/4" on each side of the width of the spoke. There really isn't any sheer strength required on the width sides of the spoke unless the wheel is impacted from the side. But even so, I'll have a lot more thickness of wood on the width than originally after the mortise is created in the spoke.

Where’s Rob? Hope all is well

Nice work. I made a vw van front window channel that was a bit like that.

Bloody awesome brings back SO many memories of the old Holdens and Strommies and little bloody clips and springs flying off in all directions .........which I still have in the Shed somewhere !!!! Cheers

Here across the ditch, we had a batch of Transit(s) that had the inline 6 ( 4.1 ) recognized that label 🏷 on the rocker cover. I had heard in aussie that these vans were used in the outback postal service. The one I became familiar with when I lived in south Auckland was in 1982 and had been converted into camper painted navy blue. Also in NZ was the TE / TF Cortina's that were more numerous which also had the UK Pinto as an option. Last TE 4.1 across the harbour bridge ( auckland ) was used by a freelance welding contractor in about 2005 whilst I worked on the Bruce Mason theatre 🎥 with all welding gear and towing required. In 2007 moved to Waikato and sold timber with forklifting & front end loader work. This December I turn 59. Thanks for all the entertainment around the 4.1 😊

Very helpful video!!!

Hey Rob, when is the next vid? cheers

When is the next episode Rob? Great series!